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Healthy Indian Cooking for Diabetes

Now, don’t just scroll to the next review! Have a read and understand that this isn’t a book for people with diabetes but a book for all of us. We are all at risk from diet-related illness but there is no need to deprive ourselves of good and flavourful food.

Azmina Govindji is a registered dietitian and the first 45 pages of this book are packed with dietary information, advice about complementary and alternative therapies, weight management and healthy cooking tips. Even these introductory pages have gorgeous pictures. This is, after all a recipe book and not a medical encyclopaedia.

I didn’t know that just being South Indian can put you at risk of diabetes, leading to further complications like heart disease. Whilst it’s not nice to hear, it’s better to know and make a few changes to your lifestyle to keep yourself well.

How often have I heard my Western friends say that they don’t cook Indian food because it’s too oily or too rich? Well, this is the book for you - launch yourself on a new and healthy culinary experience. Stock up on a few Indian spices and dry goods and have a go. It’s easy.

Indian food is a big part of my diet so I am very happy to find some lighter alternatives to some traditional favourites. Sanjeev Kapoor is India’s leading chef and winner of culinary awards so his recipes are bound to be delicious.

Dehi Methi Murgh (yogurt chicken with fresh fenugreek) is lovely and has no fat. You wouldn’t know it as the marinade gives a richness that is more associated with oil. It’s the “mouth feel” that tricks us into thinking that there must be some ghee in this recipe.

The recipe for Chicken Biryani is exceptional but it has no oil. The spices create a rich and full flavour so I would advise that you stick to the recipe and don’t cut down on the spice. The seasonings are what make these dishes work.

Dal is something I could eat for every meal....at least for a while. It’s Indian comfort food served with some breads or rice. Mixed Dal uses very little oil and the little oil that is used is olive oil.  Yes, it’s a surprise but olive oil is used to replace the heavier ghee and traditional Indian oils in this book.

My favourite recipe is Mutton Dhansaak (lamb and lentil stew). If you have ordered this in an Indian restaurant then you would have noticed that it’s sometimes a heavy dish. Healthy Indian Cooking presents us with a less oily alternative. The rich quality comes from the texture of the sauce rather than the fat.

You don’t need to be Indian to enjoy this book. Use these recipes and you will make exotic food without the guilt. Take care of yourself but enjoy eating well.

The Indian Kitchen

The Indian Kitchen by Monisha Bharadwaj is, for me at least, a must-have Indian cookbook. To call it just a “cookbook” somehow diminishes its value. It’s a lush, rich encyclopaedia of ingredients common to kitchens on the subcontinent.

I am a fairly well practised preparer of Indian food but there were even a few surprises for me. I began by just flicking through the pages and have finished by reading it from cover to cover in almost one sitting. It’s a book that is difficult to put down once opened.

The introduction is poetic: “...the kitchen can be the most fascinating room in an Indian home. Here, iridescent spices sparkle alongside huge boxes of Himalayan snow-washed rice, earthy lentils accentuate plump, dry fruits and rich, musky nuts sit next to jars of pearly sago and subja seeds.” You will love this book even if you had never tasted curry and didn’t intend to!

Each ingredient is listed by type. We start with From the Spice Box and continue to From the Grinding Stone and there are several other chapters all with equally evocative names.

The individual spices, seeds, nuts, grains etc. each have a general description and have paragraphs called Appearance and Taste, Buying and Storing, Culinary Uses, and then the recipes. Some items even have Medical Uses which will be of particular interest to anyone who prefers the natural approach to health care.

The photography is wonderful and the recipes are clear. It’s written in such a way as to hold your hand and give a bit of confidence, not only to the inexperienced cook but also to those of us with a few Biryanis under our belts who are trying something different.

Take an ordinary ingredient like an onion. Well, it’s several different types of fresh onions and powdered and flaked onions. There is a paragraph on how it grows, lots of lovely photographs and a couple of recipes. Onion Bhaji is a popular starter in Indian restaurants but they are easy to make at home and this recipe is particularly interesting as it has a different seasoning from my usual recipe. I am sure Monisha’s is an authentic version and my mouth is already watering at the prospect.

Indian bean dishes are comforting and delicious but seldom seen at the local “Calcutta Curry House”. Lobhia Ki Subzi (Spicy Black-eyed Beans) is gorgeous and I would have mine with some Indian bread. It’s simple to make and only has 3 tablespoons of oil for a dish for four people.

I can’t praise this book highly enough. I could say more but the best idea would be to go and buy a copy. Don’t even think of asking if you can borrow mine!

India Food and Cooking

Pat Chapman is famous among Anglo curry enthusiasts as a passionate Indian food lover and the man who started the Curry Club over 20 years ago. Its members now number 15000 so there is evidently support for Pat’s take on food of the subcontinent.

This is a hefty volume with the first 60-odd pages devoted to the history of India and the evolution of its food, tools and equipment, and basic preparation. He goes into great detail about the spices before we reach the recipes. His research is obviously thorough and adds a lot to the overall quality of the book.

There are a great many “Modern Chef’s Recipes”, with Spiced Stuffed Peppers being the offering from London chef Pital Gopal. Creamy Brown Lentils is a dish based on a recipe from London restaurateur Camilia Panjabi. Beef Tomatoes stuffed with gorgonzola is another chef recipe which is obviously a bit of a fusion dish.

Most of the recipes are said to be authentic and Pat give the region from where these originate. They are a delicious bunch and cover everything from starters through meats and vegetables to drinks. There is even an interesting item about the famous Bombay Duck, which I haven’t seen for years. It’s not a duck at all but rather an eel-shaped fish that is filleted and dried and used as a condiment.

My favourite recipe would have to be the Raan, Aromatic Roast Lamb. This is succulent leg of lamb, and the meat just falls from the bone. It’s savoury and delicious and easy to make. You can marinate the lamb for up to 60 hours (be warned, your fridge will smell of spice for all those 60 hours) and then just roast for 3 hours. It’s an ideal Sunday meal for a crowd.

Kulfi, Indian ice cream, makes a welcome end to any spicy meal and you don’t need to invest in an ice cream maker. Pat lists several varieties all using the basic recipe but with the additions of either chocolate, pistachio, mango or almonds. Yum!

The Chutney and Pickle chapter has Pat’s wife’s Sweet and Hot Tomato Chutney. It’s a clear chutney that looks attractive and bright. The traditional Lime Pickle would be the one for me and you can also use the same recipe to create a lemon pickle.

India Food and Cooking would be a good choice for anyone wanting to know a lot more about Indian food and history. There is plenty of reading, marvellous pictures and recipes to make your mouth water.

Bamboo – A Journey with Chinese Food

Feeding the Gods

A Taste of China

A Taste of China is one of Ken Hom’s first books and probably one of the best. It’s now back in print and I would urge anyone who has an interest in China and its food to buy a copy.

This is described as the definitive guide to regional cooking and it is indeed that, but it’s also a very personal and charming journey. Ken visits his family and an ancestral shrine with his mother for the first time, and finds that he is very much at home. It’s Ken’s relationship with the Chinese people that has allowed him to write this unique book.

Ken Hom was one of the first and is still one of the most respected Chinese food writers and was the first to make Chinese food truly accessible to the British home cook. His quiet reserve and his evident passion endeared him to millions. This book reflects just that same passion and pride.

 Some of the dishes will be quite familiar to lovers of Chinese food and they are classics. Ken has included a number of family recipes and that adds so much to the quality of this volume. Every single recipe has a history or anecdote to give some background to the dish and to fire the imagination. This is a book to read before you even consider putting a hand on a wok, and could almost be part of an autobiography.

There is not much here for which you would need a trip to Chinatown. All the ingredients are now quite common in any average UK high street with an Asian supermarket. It’s the combinations of flavours that make these dishes something special. There is nothing taxing about the cooking methods but all these recipes are authentic, diverse and delicious. There are examples of street food, health-reviving recipes, restaurant dishes, and city and country cooking.

One of my favourite dishes for a quick meal is Dan Dan Mian (Spicy Sichuan Noodles). It’s flavourful, fragrant and if you try it once I promise you will make it often. It represents a typical spicy dish of the region of Sichuan but it’s also typical of Ken’s recipes, being simple to make but giving delicious results.

This is one of those “must have” cookbooks. It has already stood the test of time and seems as fresh and absorbing as it did when first published. It’s a fascinating story of a chef’s homecoming and a wonderful introduction to the rich tapestry of Chinese food.

Stylish Indian in Minutes

This volume just oozes class. Gus Filgate is one of the best photographers around and his stunning pictures are contrasted marvellously by black and white shots of striking Indian ladies and gentlemen at cocktail parties and dinners.

Monisha had found the preparation of authentic Indian food in the UK to be something of a challenge for her British friends. Her professional training had equipped her to produce classic dishes which were popular with everyone, but she wanted to develop recipes that gave the sense of smart home cooking to the British audience. The Indian cookbooks Monisha found in the UK presented Indian food as complicated, over-exotic and only to be tackled by those with endless time and the support of several assistants!

Her skill allowed Monisha to ditch the European-targeted Indian cookbooks and devise her own techniques to provide truly authentic dishes, the sort that are made by truly authentic Indians! All of the ingredients used in

The Rough Guide to China

China to Chinatown

There can’t be a single town in the UK or North America that can’t boast at least a Chinese takeaway or a brace or two of Chinese restaurants, but have you ever wondered why it’s Chinese food that is so ubiquitous and not, say, Malay or Turkish?

J.A.G. Roberts has written China to Chinatown – Chinese Food in the West and it’s a book that goes some way towards charting the history of our (that is, western) relationship with those delicious dishes that have been loved and loathed in turn over the last couple of hundred years.

Eighteenth and nineteenth century Europeans living in China were very reluctant to even try Chinese food. It was often more of a reflection of social prejudice than dislike for a cuisine they knew nothing about. It’s true that there were (and still are) a few challenging dishes. The prospect of eating dogs was, and still is, rather distasteful to Europeans who are more comfortable eating a cute fluffy lamb or bunny.

Chinese food became more popular to westerners when they had the opportunity to eat Chinese food on home territory. Some of the first restaurants frequented by Europeans were in California where there was a sizable Chinese population, and having your own Chinese chef became a status symbol.

There have been various “Chinatowns” around Britain for a considerable time. These were not places that most of the indigenous population would frequent. They were considered as dens of vice with laundries, and the few eateries catered to the Chinese, with no concessions to western tastes.

These last decades have see our eating habits change, and now Chinese food is no longer considered strange or fear-provoking. “Instant” Chinese food was available in supermarkets in the 70s and fish and chip shops run by Chinese might also sell a spring roll or two.

Ken Hom had a popular TV cooking series in the 80s and he helped to present Chinese food as delicious, fresh and different. Most of us have a wok at home and now find Chinese restaurants that don’t offer European dishes, and these days you’ll have to ask for a fork. We have come to expect higher standards and are more eager to try authentic dishes.

The swings in popularity of Chinese food have had more to do with the politics of the moment rather than culinary preferences. More Chinese have come to the UK and food is big business. The days of deeply-felt suspicions are gone and the rumours of cat skins being found in dustbins are now consigned to the annals of urban myth.

It’s been a fascinating evolution and J.A.G. Roberts has penned an absorbing account. China to Chinatown probably tells us as much about our own attitudes as host community as it does about food.  A worthwhile read.

Korean Cuisine – An illustrated history

It is, as it says, an illustrated history and those pictures add much to understanding what Korean food is all about. It has been influenced by China and Japan and, in more recent times, the West. The cuisine remains, however, unique and is well worth investigating should you be lucky enough to cross the threshold of a Korean restaurant.

Table etiquette developed over thousands of years. Each diner would be presented with a small individual table with the dishes already in place. Men were often served before women, who would eat in another part of the house. This practice has largely given way to the Western custom of eating together at a regular-sized table.

Many Westerners are convinced that Korean food consists of nothing more than Kimch’i (fermented cabbage) and dog meat. It’s true that Kimch’i is very popular and just as much these days as ever, though it isn’t just fermented cabbage but vegetables in general that are considered Kimch’i. There are hundreds of varieties and this was originally the food of desperation. As much food as possible would have been preserved to stave off hunger during the hard winters.

Dog meat is still a ticklish issue but then we are looking at the subject through European eyes. Perhaps if cows were fluffy, friendly and kept our feet warm we would all be vegetarian!

Korean barbecued meats are famous for flavour and succulence, and the mixed vegetable and rice dishes are healthy and delicious... But a more recent development in Korean cuisine sounds a bit unlikely and involves tins of Spam and other processed meats. It’s said that these Military Camp Stews date from the time of the US presence, when the local population would use surplus military rations. It’s becoming a restaurant favourite these days!

Korean eating utensils sum up its place in Asian food culture. Koreans use both chop sticks and spoons. The spoons are not the same as the Western version, having a shallower bowl. The chop sticks are unusual in that they are traditionally metal rather than wood. They are shorter and flatter than Chinese and don’t have pointed ends like the Japanese chopsticks. This country has adapted and borrowed from outside and has evolved a varied and different cuisine.

Korean Cuisine by Michael J. Pettid is a comprehensive and fascinating look at a truly different food culture.

Culinary Jottings for Madras

“I should recommend anyone with a taste for Victorian gastronomic literature to snap him up...His recipes are so meticulous and clear, that the absolute beginner could follow them, yet at the same time he has much to teach the experienced cook.” That’s from the great Elizabeth David.

Culinary Jottings for Madras was written by WYVERN who was really Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert. He had a military career in India from 1858 till his retirement in 1892 and this book is an icon of the time and the place.

He served as Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General for part of his military service and that experience evidently gave him the confidence to attempt to transform the domestic kitchens of the Europeans in India.

It’s hard to imagine those times of huge dinner parties in sweltering heat with menus that were little changed from those of a country house in England in mid-winter. The British were for the most part unwilling to change their culinary habits and must have suffered for it.

The chapter headings well illustrate the order of things. Three chapters on Sauces, A Few Nice Pies, Our Curries, and that’s just in Part 1. Part 2 consists of Thirty Menus – Worked Out In Detail, all those menus being for four or six people. He continues with For a Little Home Dinner, comprising for example, soup, fish with a sauce, lamb, mash, aubergine, blancmange, cheese, dessert and coffee. A nice quiet night in!

WYVERN saves the best till last with a whole chapter devoted to Our Kitchens in India. He instructs on everything from the kitchen building to staff management. His description of the common state of kitchens indicates the reason why so many Europeans died young!

This is a recognised classic and I can understand why. It offers a look at a totally different era with attitudes that are long gone (thank goodness). WYVERN writes well in a style that is Victorian and charming. It isn’t a book whose recipes you are likely to follow, but you won’t buy this book to use the recipes. You’ll enjoy the experience of the Raj at its height and understand why it couldn’t last!

Homestyle Asian

and I’d say it’s a winner. We are talking about the whole of Asia so the recipes are diverse. Each one is clear with photographs of the finished dish but also photographic step-by-step instructions and there is nutritional information for each recipe.

You will already be familiar with the cooking techniques - stir-frying, steaming, etc - and the ingredients are almost all to be found in the local supermarket. It’s the combinations of spices and fresh vegetables or meats that makes Asian cooking so popular. We all want to eat healthier foods that don’t take ages to cook.

Homestyle Asian covers everything from soup to salad, curry to dessert. The book is divided by food rather than country so the chapter on noodles and rice includes Udon Noodles from Japan, Phad Thai from Thailand, Chinese Fried Rice, Singapore Noodles, etc.

There are lots of classic recipes from all over Asia: California Rolls (have you never heard of Continental Drift?), Tempura, Sichuan Chicken, Thai Beef Salad, Chilli Crab, Nasi Goreng and many more. This is a one-stop Asian cookbook!

 There are quite a few dishes that are new to me. Hot and Sour Lime Soup with Beef sounds tangy and interesting, Chilli Octopus Salad will be flavourful and light, and Noodle Cakes with Chinese Barbecued Pork will be a stunner for a smart lunch.

There is a nice selection of Asian desserts that would make an exotic end to your meal. I am often at a loss and it’s too easy to resort to ordinary fruit salad, but how about a fruit salad with pineapple, papaya, star fruit and ramboutans! There is a scrumptious Coconut Ice Cream and you don’t even need an ice-cream maker, but the most striking has got to be Sticky Black Rice sweetened with palm sugar. It’s easy to make but will be both delicious and memorable.

Don’t open this book unless you have got a nice cup of tea or glass of red wine. You won’t want to put it down. A lovely book and great value for money.

The Japanese Kitchen

Persia in Peckham

Fish Indian Style

Japanese Pure and Simple

It’s fair to say that Kimiko Barber is the undisputed queen of Japanese cooking in the UK, and this book is just another illustration of why.

Japanese Pure and Simple has over 100 health-giving recipes that are simple and flavourful and a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The photographs by Jan Baldwin are gorgeous, giving the large format book an overall feel of elegance.

Kimiko presents Japanese food as nourishing, balanced and seasonal. The fresh ingredients are tinkered with as little as possible to retain nutrients and texture. There is evidently something to be said for that philosophy as the Japanese have the highest life expectancy in the world.

The recipes are divided into various categories such as Soup, Fish, Poultry, Rice etc and they are a marvellous selection, but my favourite dishes are the Japanese Hotpots. These take fondue to new heights of sophistication and have the advantage of being good for you. There is the usual process of cooking raw meats and veggies in a stock but then you are left with a richer and more flavourful broth than you started with. Anyone who has a little space at the end of the Hotpot can finish that broth with the addition of rice or noodles.

Teriyaki dishes are always popular. They are easy to prepare and have that sweet rich flavour that is irresistible. Teriyaki Pork Steak is one of those dishes that you’ll make often as either part of a Japanese meal or served with western vegetables or salads. The ingredients are easy to find and not expensive, and once the sauce is made you can keep it for a while in the fridge. It works equally well with lamb chops but I love it with chicken breasts.

The Japanese are renowned for the exquisite presentation of food and Kimiko has thoughtfully given us some pointers. You don’t need to invest in new crockery although I think that a small Sake flask and cups adds a hint of authenticity. Use your usual plates but don’t pile on the food, rather create landscapes with plenty of space and artful use of garnish. Very Zen!

Kimiko Barber writes books that are full of advice to enable you to prepare truly beautiful but healthy food with surprising ease. Choose the freshest produce and enjoy these delightful dishes.

Chinese Food Made Easy

Calamity and Courage

The author Belinda Morse is the great-granddaughter of the Victorian artist John Hanson Walker, who exhibited the portrait of Ethel Grimwood at the Royal Academy, and the search for that portrait is in itself an interesting journey.

Calamity and Courage is the story of Ethel Grimwood and Manipur and it’s a tragic tale of Government mismanagement and unnecessary loss of life. It’s the kind of story that would make a romantic adventure film, a cross between The Life of Florence Nightingale and The Far Pavilions.

There was a lot of family in-fighting around the court of the Maharaja of Manipur which necessitated the resignation of one Maharaja and the placement of another. The manipulation of events by the Indian Government (British Government in India) seemed to have rocked lots of boats, which led eventually to a massacre in 1891.

Ethel was marooned in the residence with a small force of armed men and an increasing number of injured. It became evident that they would all lose their lives if they stayed put so it was decided to start out under fire to seek help, not only for themselves but for those officers and men who were by that time held captive at the Maharaja’s palace.

After many days of hardship they were rescued by friendly forces and conducted to safety. It was, however, many weeks till Ethel discovered the fate of her husband and the other captives. The uprising against the British was big news and Ethel was given recognition for her service to the injured men. She was even invited to meet Queen Victoria (who took a great interest in events in India) to be awarded the Red Cross medal.

It seems that Ethel and her husband had a good relationship with the Indian Princes who had treated them not only with polite courtesy but with warm friendship and generosity. They seem to have been unwitting victims of political infighting and both suffered for the prejudices of those in authority.

Calamity and Courage is a book filled with Victorian attitudes but it presents Ethel as a young woman with a bit of grit and loyalty to the princes who were once so kind to her. An amazing read.

India’s Vegetarian Cooking

Ricelands – The World of South-East Asian Food

Vatch’s Thai Street Food

Easy Japanese Cookbook

Stylish Thai in Minutes

The Legendary Cuisine of Persia

Margaret Shaida, the author, was born in England but moved to Iran when she married. She lived there for 25 years and learned to cook from her mother-in-law, friends and other family members.

At first glance you might find it difficult to see the relevance of Persian cuisine in modern Europe but there are a few clues to its impact. The Old Persian bâdangân became al-badinjan in Arabic, alberjinera in Spanish, and finally aubergine in French and English. The word Spanish has its origin in the Old Persian espenj, orange came from nârang, lemon came from limoo.

The Moghuls (Mongols) invaded Persia and adopted the language, cuisine and religion of their new land. Two hundred years later Tamerlane, a direct descendant of Genghiz Khan, set his sights on India and took with him the traditions of the Persian court and kitchen. Biryani is the Persian word for baked, nan was introduced to India by the Persians and was baked in a tanoor which later became a tandoor. It’s certain that India has changed the original Persian dishes and made them her own. They might have the same names but they are spicier now.

The recipes are divided by type with a chapter on bread being first. This might seem strange but bread has an almost mythical importance even in the modern Iranian home. It’s never wasted or allowed to fall to the floor. Left-overs are made into breadcrumbs rather than being thrown away.

There are delightful recipes here. They have subtle and aromatic flavours rather than being hot with spices. Rice dishes are held in high esteem but poorer families might only eat these on festival days. Rice with Herbs (Sabzi Polow) is perfumed with parsley, coriander, dill and chives. Rice with Dried Fruit and Nuts (Ajeel Polow) is substantial and delicious with minced lamb, crisp fried onions and dried cherries.

Kebabs are now familiar to us in the west. Margaret Shaida offers us a mouth-watering selection all of which will be more succulent and tasty than the dodgy examples found in late-night take-aways from Brighton to Beijing. Lamb Fillet Kebab is delicate and tender and you’ll notice the difference.

Pickles are traditionaly a big thing in Iranian homes so Margaret has included several interesting ones. Pickled Shallots are easy to produce although a bit time-consuming. Make large quantities of these and you’ll have something different to offer guests. Try them and you’ll agree they are worth the effort.

It’s always tempting to just jump directly into the recipes in cookbooks. Don’t do that with this book. You’ll miss so much fascinating information. Claudia Roden has said “...the background and history of the food is both a joy and a precious contribution to the world of gastronomy.” If you have a serious interest in food then you will find this book enchanting.

The Big Book of Thai Curries

India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent

Indonesian Food

The Bollywood Cookbook

The Chinese Kitchen

Curry – Classic and Contemporary

The author, Vivek Singh, is the executive chef at the celebrated Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He has previously penned The Cinnamon Club Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and Contemporary is a marvellous showcase for this man’s talent and unique perspective.

But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a curry”, “let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for any kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather amused  by our notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or horrified at our ignorance). It seems that the misconception dates back to the British officers of the East India Company. These chaps spent their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak the language so when asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was “curry” tonight rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the delicious array of other diverse dishes.

The recipes here are striking. I recognise the classics like Jungle Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there are many more that are new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a popular restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a scotch egg (boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic sauce. Those army officers in India would recognise this one.

I love Raan (leg of lamb) and Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes the most wonderful presentation for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a bit of work but you’ll find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the meat which will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous aroma that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the table.

Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are both of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my way through every dish. A delight.

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is part of a remarkable series from Prospect Books. The English Kitchen series looks at the history of dishes and their place in our cuisine. Other volumes include Trifle and Soup, but Early Vegetarian Recipes and Rhubarbarian will follow shortly. They form a fascinating study into what we eat and why.

The authors, Helen Saberi and David Burnett, are well placed to write a quality food-related volume. Helen has penned Noshe Djan – Afghan Food and Cookery, and assisted the late Alan Davidson in the compilation of the Oxford Companion to Food. David is a publisher who has won acclaim for his re-publication of Countryman’s Cooking by W.F. Fowler.

Our love of curry did, in fact, start before the Victorian era. The first mention of a curry in a cookbook was in 1717, although Nicholas Culpeper discusses in 1653 the properties of many of the spices that later were recognised as key curry ingredients. Of coriander he writes “... sends up unwholesome vapours to the brain, dangerous for mad people.” I hear that curry is often on the menu at the House of Commons; there is hope though, as the ever-popular mustard is said to be “...excellent for one that is troubled with lethargy.”

The charm of The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is that it’s a compilation from a variety of cookbooks. The attitudes they present range from the naive to the enlightened, with even the quintessentially English Mrs Beeton interesting herself in the preparation of a Chicken Curry with Chickpeas. She even recommends the use of ghee (Indian clarified butter) and that indicates that those returning from the subcontinent brought with them some traditional Indian ideas ...and perhaps some traditional Indian cooks.

Dr. Senn produced a good many cookery books before the First World War and until the 1930s. He is “famed” for such works as Tomatoes and Their Many Uses, and Special Dishes for Borstal Institutions. He notes that “...Madras curry is of the best classical period”, “...The Bengal artist is greatest in fish and vegetable curries”, and “...Bombay boasts of its particular gifts in its bomelow fish and popedoms.” I can find no reference to bomelow fish so I conclude that it must be extinct!

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is a fascinating and sometimes amusing look at the food we love so much. We might not eat “authentic” Indian food but we seem to love our version of it. This book is a must for anyone who enjoys Britain’s favourite food.

Complete Indian Cooking

Meena trained in food technology and hotel management with the prestigious Taj hotel group. Combine that with a passion for food and you have a recipe (sorry for the pun) for culinary success. She has, in fact, packaged her talents and sold them on to the general public, but Complete Indian Cooking is about cooking from scratch with hardly a jar to be seen.

There are over 180 recipes in this volume which is really two books in one: Flavours of India and Indian Cooking for Family and Friends. Meena does not assume that you are a seasoned Indian cook so she introduces us to India’s Culinary Traditions, Favourite Ingredients, Cooking Tips and Kitchen Equipment.

The food is mouthwatering. I have a love of Indian food and I’ll enjoy eating my way through much of this book. The photography by John Freeman is first class, showing both the food and Meena to best advantage. It’s a large format book with great visual appeal and is a marvellous showcase for Meena’s food.

The recipes are broad-based and offer plenty of choice for both vegetarians and meat eaters. The meat of choice is, unsurprisingly, lamb but there are fish dishes aplenty as well as sweets. The recipes are easy to follow and are, for the most part, simple to prepare. The key to success is the combination of spices. There are no complicated cooking techniques and you’ll already have the kitchen equipment.

There are some stunning dishes here. Prawn Balichow is a favourite relish but I have only ever tasted the commercial varieties. This isn’t difficult to make and it’s lovely as part of a starter or buffet. Devilled Prawns would be a delicious alternative.

The chapter called Rice, Bread and Accompaniments has some lovely dips. Coriander and Mint Raita will be familiar to restaurant goers, as is Sabzi Raita served with Biryani. Lentils with Cream and Butter is real comfort food, rich and unctuous, so eat this with just rice or bread... not white sliced though.

Complete Indian Cooking is a book to use. It’s attractive and sumptuous but it would be a shame to keep it anywhere but the kitchen.

Chinese Cookery – Ken Hom

Ken was the first Chinese chef/cook/food presenter to make a real impact in the UK. Kenneth Lo had long been respected as a promoter of Chinese food in Britain, but Ken Hom had a TV series that coincided with renewed interest in cooking and all things foodie. This slightly nervous young man presented entertaining and fascinating programmes that introduced Chinese food to a country that was ready to accept new flavours and the excitement of frying with a wok with the gas turned high. We started to find Chinese ingredients in high street shops and a quick stir-fry seemed more appealing than a time-consuming roast.

Chinese Cookery is a book welcomed by those new to Chinese cooking and those who are well practised in that cuisine. Ken offers a wealth of information about ingredients, equipment, menu planning and technique, and then it’s on to the food which is marvellous. There are some additions to the first edition so now there is a selection of dishes that encompass both traditional family cooking and also some contemporary innovations.

I am not sure that Ken Hom has a “signature dish” but I have my favourites. Chicken Pieces in Black Bean Sauce is a recipe that is simple but delicious. The black beans are salty and tangy and they give the chicken a unique flavour that I have found to be quite addictive.  Cold Spicy Noodles are comforting and rich. I use peanut butter although Ken says that sesame paste is equally good. These noodles are so easy to prepare and it’s truly a meal in moments. If you don’t really like cooking you will love this one.

OK, so the TV series was well-timed but it’s the quality of Ken Hom’s work that has allowed him to stay at the top of his profession. Chinese Cookery has endured because the recipes still reflect modern tastes. Timeless!

Some favourites