Lots of Asian cookbook reviews, Asian restaurant reviews, chef news, latest food information, Asian travel and culture book reviews. It changes every week! Contact Chrissie Walker at mostlyfood@live.co.uk
There are a few more Vietnamese restaurants around these
days. The UK had an influx of Vietnamese refugees a couple of decades
ago but those folks who chose to work in the food industry seemed
mostly to open fish and chip shops rather than restaurants. Now, we do
have some specialist Vietnamese restaurants and many more cafés
that offer the traditional Vietnamese sandwich bánh mì
and the substantial national Pho soup.
This is an ancient country with a history dating back some 4000 years.
Its closest international influence has been, unsurprisingly, China,
its largest and most powerful neighbour. Successive Chinese dynasties
ruled Vietnam directly for most of the period from 207 BC until 938
when Vietnam gained its freedom. The independent period ended in the
middle to late 19th century when Vietnam was colonised by France; and
after WWII there was a bloody conflict, during which time China and the
Soviet Union supported the North while the United States aided the
South. The Vietnam War ended with the Fall of Saigon in 1975.
Times have been tough for Vietnam but in 1986 the Communist Party of
Vietnam changed its economic policy and started reforms to allow
private enterprise. Since that time Vietnam has achieved substantial
economic growth and is slowly becoming a destination for culinary and
cultural diversion.
Vietnamese food is considered some of the healthiest in the world,
although that aforementioned sandwich (a legacy from the French
occupation and stuffed with fatty paté) redresses the balance.
There are different styles of cuisine reflecting availability of
ingredients across the country. Northern Vietnam has a cooler climate
which limits the range of local spices; the food is therefore less
vibrant than that in other regions. Central Vietnam's mountains allow
for the production of many more spices and the cuisine is marked by
their use. The warmer weather of the South make this the ideal region
for growing fruit and vegetables as well as raising animals; this area
has also had more culinary influences from China, India, France and
Thailand.
Such is the love of food in this land that even its celebrated leader
Ho Chi Min was a cook, in both Paris and London. Authentic Recipes from
Vietnam offers an accessible overview of the dishes of that country.
All the ingredients can be found in Asian food stores so there is no
excuse for not trying these simple and delicious recipes. Yes, there is
Pho soup but much more that will likely be new to the novice Vietnamese
diner.
The classic Vietnamese Deep-fried Spring Rolls are great as a
make-ahead starter for any kind of Asian meal, but also to go with
drinks. The filling can be changed to suit your taste or budget but a
little of the more costly ingredients goes a long way. A must-try from
this book.
Vietnamese Beef Hotpot will be the dish of choice for a no-cook (for
you) dinner party. There will be no complaints as your guests will be
doing the cooking for themselves. This is an Asian fondue, with the
meat being quickly poached in an aromatic stock. The beef is then
enclosed with a variety of garnishes in a rice-paper wrapper.
There are a few interesting desserts here and a favourite is Bananas
and Sago Pearls in Coconut Cream. No, it’s not like the sago pudding of
old school days – this recipe uses those large beads that have a unique
texture. Cooked bananas develop a flavour that is, well, more banana-y
than the fresh article. A mild and striking dessert.
Authentic Recipes from Vietnam is a marvellous introduction to the
remarkable food of this region of South East Asia. The dishes have
hints of other cultures combining to achieve something unique and
delightful. Those sandwiches might be fine in an emergency, but next
time you have a chance to eat Vietnamese try some cooked delights or,
even better, make an authentic meal at home.
Authentic Recipes from Vietnam
Authors: Trieu Thi Choi and Marcel Isaak
Published by: Periplus
ISBN 978-0-7946-0327-4
Authentic
Recipes from the Philippines
This is a unique book considering a cuisine little known
in Europe. How frequently do we say “let’s go out for a Filipino”? Not
often, although the dishes would indeed appeal to Europeans as well as
Asians.
The Philippine archipelago is part of Southeast Asia and its location
has allowed for cultural and culinary influences from Malays, Arabs,
Chinese, Spaniards, Americans, Japanese and others. The Philippines
consists of more than 7000 islands and occupies an area of 1,850 square
kilometres, and they can boast one of the longest coastlines of any
country in the world; therefore most Filipinos live on or near the
coast.
Trade with Hokkien China was evident as early as the Song dynasty (1279
– 960 BC), long before the arrival of the Europeans. China introduced a
number of staple foods such as soy, tofu, bean sprouts, and fish sauce.
The Spanish added produce from the New World: chillies, tomatoes, corn,
potatoes. Spanish and Mexican dishes such as paella were eventually
adopted into Philippine cuisine.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines will inspire any lover of good
food. It has the vibrancy and culinary complexity of many Asian
cuisines but with those additional elements from the West. It’s a
gastronomic landscape that has evolved and grown over the centuries and
it’s the richer for it. There is much that is familiar but there is
still more that will intrigue and excite the reader.
There are several favourite recipes for practical and exotic meals
here. Cuban-style Rice with Meat Sauce and Plantains – Arroz la Cubana
– needs no special ingredients apart from the plantains, which can be
found in many high-street supermarkets or Asian or West Indian stores.
An attractive dish that even the kids will love. No expensive cuts of
meat, just minced pork and minced beef. A considerable step up from
your regular Wednesday night Spag Bol.
Chicken Adobo with Turmeric and Coconut Milk is the national dish of
the Philippines. If you have enjoyed dishes from Goa or Kerala then you
will appreciate this one. A simple preparation but that overnight
marinade time is important. A good recipe to make in advance for a
dinner party as well as a family meal. Reduce the number of chillies
for the young or timid.
Some rather classy desserts from Cafe Ysabel in Manila are offered, and
these would work as a finale for either an Asian or European meal.
Caramel-coated Egg Nuggets – Yema – are golden balls made from egg
yolks and evaporated milk, a much under-appreciated ingredient. These
are said to last up to 2 weeks in the fridge but it’s unlikely you’ll
have to keep them that long.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines will be a joy to Asian food
aficionados. The ingredients are for the most part familiar, and those
few that are unique to the Philippines can be found at specialist Asian
stores or online. A fascinating addition to any serious cookbook
collection.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines
Author: Reynaldo G. Alejandro
Published by: Periplus
Price: £15.50
ISBN-10: 079460238X
ISBN-13: 978-0794602383
Authentic
Recipes from Malaysia
There are just a few Malaysian restaurants in London. I
have visited most of them and they range from high-end teak-polished
splendour to casual vinyl-topped practicality, but the food so far has
ranged from good to outstanding.
If you like Indian dishes then you will doubtless enjoy Malaysian food.
If Chinese cuisine is what you crave then Malaysian food will likely
comfort you. Nyonya food was developed by the Straits Chinese and
Peranakan (people of mixed Chinese/Malay ancestry) of Malaysia and
Singapore. Malaysian food is influenced mainly by the Chinese larder
but adds South-East Asian ingredients such as coconut milk, lemongrass,
turmeric, chillies and sambal. It has hints of those other cooking
traditions but it has developed as a respected culinary entity in its
own right.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia offers 62 easy-to-follow recipes that
will give an overview to anyone who wants to learn more about these
delicious dishes and their origins. The recipes are divided by food
type: snacks, salads, rice, meat, fish, desserts, etc. There is also a
glossary of ingredients and you will doubtless find all you will need
in your local Asian supermarket or online.
Roti Canai is one of my favourite breads. It’s light and flaky and the
ideal tool to mop up saucy curries. The professional makers of these
melting breads are artists. They stretch and twirl the thin dough and
fold as it’s cooking on the griddle. The authors offer a more practical
method but if you have a chance to watch the pros you might feel
tempted to indulge in a little airborne culinary theatre.
Seafood is found in abundance all year round in the waters surrounding
Malaysia. Butter Prawns is a contemporary dish which draws on all the
culinary influences of the region. The result is a rich and spicy
concoction that will have the diner licking both fingers and lips. A
simple and quick dish to prepare, ideal as a starter or served as
nibbles with drinks.
No “authentic” Malaysian cookbook would be complete without a version
of the perennial favourite, Beef Rendang. Lemongrass is the herb that
gives this spicy dish its distinct aromatic charm. It’s a slow-cooked
and meltingly tender beef creation that improves by being kept for a
day or so. A marvellous make-ahead meal for the family or for
entertaining.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia has inspiring recipes that will delight
anyone who has enjoyed flavourful and aromatic meals in Malaysian
restaurants, or those who have travelled to that delightful region and
want to replicate memorable dishes.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia
Author: Wendy Hutton
Published by Periplus
ISBN-10: 0794602967
ISBN-13: 978-0794602963
Easy Chinese Recipes
To any home cook that title might sound attractive – Easy
Chinese Recipes – but to a reviewer who is a passionate cook that very
same title can cause worries. Is this going to be a book with its focus
on convenience foods? Could it be sub-titled “Make Friends with your
Microwave”? The reality is far from that.
Bee Yinn Low is the guiding light behind one of the internet’s most
successful Asian food blogs. She was born in Malaysia but her Chinese
heritage finds her well placed to educate the rest of us. She takes
advantage of products that all Chinese cooks enjoy these days. Nothing
wrong with a bottle of good quality sauce when added to delicately
balanced spices and fresh ingredients. You’ll be cooking in the same
way as they do all over Asia.
Bee loved cooking but she didn’t have unlimited time to spend in the
kitchen so she sought out the best recipes to adapt to a modern Western
life. Her recipes taste authentic but you don’t need a diploma from the
culinary institute in Shanghai to accomplish them, and all the
ingredients will likely be in your local supermarket, Asian emporium or
the internet.
I love the dishes of Sichuan. They have a reputation for being pungent
and laden with red chilli. Bee offers Sichuan Spicy Chicken – La Zi Ji
– which is adapted from an original Chinese restaurant recipe from
Chongqing, the capital of Sichuan. It uses 20 dried chillies and that
is the toned-down version. Try the recipe with this many and then
increase or decrease the spice to suit. Chilli is addictive so don’t be
surprised if your tolerance mounts over time.
Chicken with Garlic Sauce has much less chilli but there is real punch
from the garlic: 3 or 4 cloves, but don’t be shy with that main
flavouring ingredient. This is a colourful dish that will fill your
home with the most enticing aromas while it’s cooking. An economic meal
but striking enough to impress dinner guests.
Fresh Mango Pudding is a popular Chinese dessert these days. It is
simple to prepare and has sweetness from the fruit pulp and richness
from the evaporated milk. Bee suggests a tablespoon of evaporated milk
as a garnish on top of these set pots, but one could also use some
slices of mango or a handful of dark berries. A delightful make-ahead
dessert.
Easy Chinese Recipes is full of delicious dishes that won’t take hours
to produce. There is something for every palate from the searingly
spicy to the mellow and aromatic. A book for those with good taste and
little time.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Chinese Recipes
Author: Bee Yinn Low
Published by Tuttle Publishing
Price: £24.00
ISBN-10: 0804841470
ISBN-13: 978-080484147-4
Modern Thai Food
This is a large-format volume with some of the most
stunning food photography I have ever seen. Jeremy Simons takes
advantage of full pages to present the most exquisite close-ups. A
simple Ginger Martini is beautiful in its organic whiteness, and the
Egg Net Rolls with Pork and Shrimp bursts with colour and linen-like
texture.
But you’ll want to buy Modern Thai Food for its recipes and these don’t
disappoint either. The author Martin Boetz runs Longrain Restaurant and
Bar in Sydney, and this book reflects his interpretation of
contemporary Thai food garnished with some Australian inspiration.
You’ll have no problem finding the ingredients in the UK; most of them
will already be familiar to you and those more obscure ones will be on
the shelves of your local Asian emporium.
Martin starts with a chapter on basic condiments and pastes that you
will need for the recipes that follow, and I will be making Pickled
Ginger first. It’s a garnish for salads but I would add this to steamed
rice as well. Another garnish is the simple Roasted Chilli, Sugar and
Salt. Use this to sprinkle over fried calamari or over nuts for a
moreish snack.
All the dishes here are tempting and some of them are classics or
Martin’s interpretations thereof, and a couple of the grilled meat
dishes are liable to join my list of regular dinners. Grilled Beef
Curry with Peanuts: 200g of rump steak will feed 4 people, with a side
dish of rice. The same weight of pork will give you the main ingredient
for the fresh and sweet Grilled Pork Pineapple Curry. One can pick up a
pineapple for less than a pound for most of the year in Asian
supermarkets, and this recipe only uses a quarter of it. Non-pork
eaters can replace the meat with some seafood.
Martin offers a couple of exotic ice creams to finish your Thai meal,
or any meal. Palm Sugar Ice Cream needs no garnishing and has few
ingredients. Palm sugar is dark and rich and is well worth seeking out
for this delicious recipe. If you fancy something a little less
caramelly then try the Passionfruit Ice Cream. Its base is the same
custard as the Palm Sugar Ice Cream but it replaces the palm sugar with
some passionfruit pulp.
But back to that aforementioned Ginger Martini. Yes, the photograph is
striking but so is the drink. Clean and light with a vibrant hit from
the spice. This is my pick of the book and will doubtless be this
yuletide’s beverage of choice. A winning cocktail from a worthy book.
Asian cookbook review: Modern Thai Food
Author: Martin Boetz
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-0-8048-4229-7
Hashi – A
Japanese cookery course
I have reviewed many a cookbook and a good number of these
have been Japanese, but it’s the first time I have looked up from my
half-finished draft to see the author of the object of my labours
gracing my TV screen. Reiko Hashimoto is on New British Kitchen and
demonstrating sushi. I know that Absolute Press is an amazing publisher
but I must add that their timing is impeccable.
Reiko was born in Kyoto to a traditional Japanese family with a mum
who has transmitted her own passion for Japanese cooking and food.
Reiko moved to the UK to study but instead of going into a dry and
boring profession she became an air hostess. She was based in Hong Kong
so had all the culinary exposure that metropolis has to offer.
Travelling also gave Reiko the opportunity to broaden her gastronomic
horizons and she eventually decided on a career in teaching Japanese
cooking.
Reiko moved to London and launched a company called ‘HASHI’ offering
Japanese cooking courses and catering Japanese food for dinner parties
and events. Reiko has now been teaching for over a decade; she offers
classes to raw beginners but also to those who have a little more
experience.
Although I mentioned that Reiko demonstrated sushi on the “John Torode
Show”, she also presented cooked dishes. Sushi and sashimi are common
in the UK these days and many people assume that’s all the Japanese
eat. In truth there is a large and tempting array of dishes that are
healthy and delicious, and the ingredients are available in
supermarkets or online.
Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is a big, bold and brilliant book
with a chunky square format. Black-edged pages and heavy title type
make this a striking volume. Plenty of photography to give a bit of
inspiration to the novice home cook, and the majority of the recipes
are surprisingly short.
The recipes here are broad-based and do constitute a cookery course.
Those unfamiliar with Japanese dishes can hone their skills on the
simple dishes before progressing to those which are a little more
demanding, although there is nothing here that would terrify the
Western home cook.
My favourite recipe is that for Donburi. This is a bowl of hot rice
with a topping – a real dinner dish. The author offers several versions
of this popular meal but my pick-of-the-bunch is Oyako-Donburi. It’s
chicken cooked in dashi, mirin, sugar and saké and then beaten
egg is added. Mild and comforting and a hot meal that even the kids
will request. That’s gotta be a reason to buy this book.
Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is one of the most accessible
Japanese cookbooks around. Reiko lives in London so she is aware of
available ingredients and the tastes of the local population. Her
experience as a teacher allows her to engage with the reader and
encourage them to have a go. A lovely gift for any Japanese food
aficionado.
Asian cookbook review: Hashi – A Japanese cookery course
Author: Reiko Hashimoto
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781906650575
Indonesian Cooking – Satays,
Sambals and more
It’s a surprise to me that Indonesian cuisine is not more
popular, especially in Europe’s cosmopolitan cities. It has so much to
recommend it. The spices are familiar and there is nothing shocking or
intimidating. If you love Thai food you will enjoy Indonesian food. If
Indian dishes are what you crave then Indonesian curries could be your
new comfort dishes.
To say that Indonesian food is a cross between this and that would
undervalue the sophistication and unique complexity of its culinary
traditions. We use those examples of Thai and Indian only to indicate a
spice palate but Indonesian food is its own entity with remarkable
dishes offering specific flavour characteristics.
Indonesia is on the ancient spice route, and has therefore had culinary
influences from not only India and Thailand but also the Middle East
and China. The Spanish and Portuguese traders added New World foods and
the Dutch colonisers threw in a few ideas.
Yes, sure, OK, but can I get the ingredients if I live in a field in
middle England? The spices are those with which you are already
familiar. There might be just a few for which you might need the
services of a specialist Asian store, but the internet will also
provide all your Indonesian needs.
There are a couple of dishes that you will likely have already come
across: Nasi Lemak – traditional coconut rice platter, Nasi Goreng –
classic fried rice. This is real accessible family cooking that is
aromatic rather than overly spicy. A flavourful meal that even the kids
will enjoy.
Babi Manis – caramelized pork – is a recipe with few ingredients and
it’s a simple process to produce a rich and glossy dish with a hint of
spice, which can be adjusted to your taste. 600g of pork loin will be
enough to feed 4 people, along with some steamed rice.
My pick-of-the-book is the recipe for Sambal Cumi – Spicy
Sautéed Calamari. This is a tangy preparation using tamarind as
a sharp flavouring and sambal oelek for heating spice. It’s a simple
recipe but the results are sophisticated enough for a dinner party.
Indonesian Cooking – Satays, Sambals and more is a colourful
introduction to an overlooked cuisine. These dishes are simple to make,
and they are delicious and different.
Asian cookbook review: Indonesian Cooking – Satays, Sambals and more
Author: Dina Yuen
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: $16.95
ISBN-10: 0804841454
ISBN-13: 978-0804841450
Serene Gardens
What vision do we have when we think of Japan? Well, in
truth there will likely be a few images. If we are into anime
there will be cartoon characters. The food lovers will doubtless
conjure a plate of sushi, and many others will say that a graceful
geisha will be on their list. Show all of those folks a picture of a
typical Japanese garden and they will all recognise it as being an
iconic emblem of the culture of that country.
In fact there is more than one style of traditional garden and they are
all striking and mostly low maintenance once constructed. There are the
calming and minimalist Zen gardens with carefully-placed rocks adrift
in a sea of precisely-raked gravel or sand. The Tea Garden can be small
but full not only of plants but also structures, and perhaps the sound
of water to set the scene for that important cup of tea. There is an
index of plants that you will be able to find in your local garden
centre, and a list of addresses for the delivery of those huge boulders
as well as bamboo fences.
We are often, in Europe, limited by space and climate so perhaps the
most practical garden is the Courtyard Garden. If you are lucky enough
to have a larger garden then you can build this courtyard into one
corner with views, perhaps, from the sitting room. Create an intimate
space with some plants, rocks and moss which will grow happily in a
small shady area. Don’t think for a moment that this is necessarily an
easy option. You won’t need to mow it every Sunday morning but it will
need to be watered frequently.
A small Zen rock garden might be a weekend project but those other
gardens will evolve and mature with time. Serene Gardens – creating
Japanese design and detail in the Western garden, is a manual of
practical advice and ideas to enable you to turn your dream into
reality.
Asian book review: Serene Gardens
Author: Yoko Kawaguchi
Published by: New Holland
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-916-2
My Japanese Table
The author is Debra Samuels. Doesn’t sound very Japanese,
does it? Well, perhaps not, but her credentials are impeccable as this
lady has spent a decade or so living in Japan and learning to cook in
home kitchens. She is ideally placed to pen a book for the European
market as she appreciates which recipes translate well and which
techniques will be new to the reader.
Debra has a passion for Japanese food and wants to make it accessible
to all of us who are becoming more interested in this fascinating
cuisine. There are lots more Japanese restaurants around (it’s a shame
that they are of patchy quality) so we have had the chance to try the
food for ourselves.
Unfortunately we are led to believe that Japanese food consists of
sushi ...or sashimi for those who want to push the envelope. Surely
that can’t be all they eat in Japan? No, indeed, my dear inquisitive
gastronaut. There are plenty of hot dishes that constitute real meals
and will introduce the reader to home cooking from Japan, rather than
restaurant standard fare.
Debra does start off with sushi and the like, just to ease her audience
into the subject, but there is a tempting rice-based alternative that
can be described as the Japanese equivalent of a sandwich. Onigiri are
stuffed balls of rice that make ideal picnic snacks or fillings for a
Bento box – Japanese packed meals. Debra suggests Spicy Tuna Salad as
the stuffing but this would work with any soft full-flavoured meat or
fish.
Another Japanese staple is Sweet Soy Beef and Onion Rice Bowl. 500g of
beef will provide a substantial meal for 4 people. Just a little
marinating time and a bit of wok or frying pan action and you’ll have a
flavoursome topping for steamed rice. It’s a family-friendly meal that
will appeal to the kids. The grated apple adds a slight sweetness which
is unique and delicious.
Asian desserts are always a problem but there are a few delights here
that would work well for any type of Asian meal. Cool and refreshing
Matcha Ice Cream has a delicate yet distinct taste and acts as a light
palate cleanser after Japanese food or even an Indian meal. So easy to
make if one owns an ice-cream maker. Matcha is that traditional vivid
green tea of Tea Ceremony fame. It’s sold, along with other Japanese
specialities, in larger Asian supermarkets.
My Japanese Table is written with the Western housewife in mind.
Nothing too taxing here and this book presents recipes that will be
welcomed by your family but also by your dinner party guests, who will
marvel at your new menus. No need to tell them that you hardly spent
any time at all on prep. Go on, be a hero.
Asian cookbook review: My Japanese Table
Author: Debra Samuels
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: £27.50
ISBN 978-4-8053-1118-9
Furoshiki – The
art of wrapping with fabric
This is an ancient practice that seems to be very trendy
now in Europe. I first came across it when a friend arrived from
Marseille. She is a lady of impeccable taste and owns a shop filled
with stylish and interesting goods. I had high hopes of a classy gift
and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this square of material.
“Nice,” I said, with as much enthusiasm as this confused reviewer could
muster. “Just what I wanted,” I lied, but thankfully help and an
explanation was at hand before I contemplated saying “This would make
an exemplary family heirloom.”
Furoshiki is, just as the title implies, the ancient art of wrapping
with fabric. A square of material can wrap all manner of things as well
as becoming, with the use of some deft knotting, a handbag or a
shoulder bag.
Gone are the days when we could go to any supermarket and expect a
plastic bag for free. Many people choose to take along their own fabric
bag instead of adding to landfill. A medium Furoshiki bag can hold all
that a regular plastic bag could, and will look considerably more
exotic. All the knots needed for a shopping bag, a backpack, a bottle
carrier and a book bag are illustrated, and with a little practice you
will be going out with a handbag and returning with a shopping bag,
with just a little re-knotting mid-outing.
Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric is a unique book for those
who want to be ahead of the trend. Nothing much to buy – just hem some
squares of material and you have versatile bags that you can coordinate
with your equally trendy (does anyone really use that word these days?)
clothes.
Book review: Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric
Author: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Published by: New Holland
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-816-5
The Saké
Handbook
Saké has become more popular than ever in both
restaurants and bars. One can find good quality saké by the
bottle and made into cocktails, but there are surprisingly few books in
English on the subject of saké and its production. John Gauntner
is considered an authority and has penned The Saké Handbook
which is an indispensible introduction and buying guide to those who
have not had the advantage of a formal sommelier course.
The Saké Handbook describes the history, brewing methods and
labels, encouraging the reader to buy a selection of bottles to sample
and compare. There is really no substitute for actually drinking
saké to discover its complexity. Its distinctive taste is unique
but it is now being more readily paired with food, which is bound to be
a source of fascination to anyone interested in expanding their
epicurean horizons.
The Saké Sommelier Association is a body set up to promote
saké throughout the world. They offer a single-day course in
London every year to introduce those of us who know nothing about the
drink to the world of saké. You will learn its history and the
changes of production methods down the ages. Most importantly you will
have the chance to sample a dozen or so different styles of saké
with a tutor who will guide you through the subtle nuances of each and
compare them, to give the student a comprehensive overview of Japan’s
national beverage. There are longer courses available for those who
want to sit an exam to become certified saké sommeliers. Future
dates and times for these courses will be posted here as they are
announced.
Isake is an important site for those who want to try some of the best
sakés available in the UK http://www.isake.co.uk
The Saké Handbook
Author: John Gauntner
Published by: Tuttle
ISBN 978-0-8048-3425-4
We in the UK have a very particular view on Indian food.
For most of us it’s visits to restaurants that introduce us to those
vibrant spices that give such a distinct flavour to Sub-continental
dishes – those which have fiery heat and those which are aromatic and
mellow.
The Indian Bible offers the reader a well-chosen selection of recipes,
many of which will be familiar to those of us who haunt our local
Indian restaurant. There are also many that will be new even to the
most dedicated “curry” addict.
Most Indians are full- or part-time vegetarians and lots of people eat
lentils every day. They are comforting in both flavour and texture,
simple to make and can be served with either bread or rice. The Indian
Bible suggests a mixed yellow dal. There are few spices needed but the
combination of mustard seeds, cumin and garlic along with green
chillies give heat and richness that is tempered by a bunch of fresh
coriander used as an essential ingredient rather than a garnish.
Kerala is a coastal region in southern India. Their cuisine takes
advantage of seafood and the ubiquitous coconut and curry leaves, which
add a unique flavour. Kerala Prawn Curry is “Kerala on a plate” or at
least that’s how the late Keith Floyd would probably have described it.
This isn’t a searingly spicy dish so it’s an ideal introduction to
Indian food for the timid.
Baigan Bharta is a much celebrated smoky eggplant (aubergine) dish. The
vegetables are slowly roasted. No chillies here – it’s a smooth and
moreish dip that is a delight served with naan bread. This would make a
delicious addition to a starter platter with onion bhajis, samosas and
lamb seekh kebabs, also in this book.
Desserts in India are not as common as they are in the West but they
are memorable. Kheer – Indian rice pudding – is traditional and full of
nuts, dried fruits, saffron, and cardamom. The recipe includes just one
pod but I would be tempted to add a few more.
Kulfi – Indian ice cream – is often found on restaurant menus although
it’s mostly bought-in rather than made in-house. It’s easy to make at
home even without an ice-cream maker. There are two versions here:
coconut and pistachio. My favourite is coconut which contains condensed
milk as a key ingredient. Don’t be tempted to substitute regular milk
for the condensed milk: it’s what gives the distinctive taste and
texture.
The Indian Bible is a small-format and practical book with more than
130 recipes. The spices will likely be ones you already have in your
larder, and the few exotic extras can be bought either online or in
your local Asian supermarket. It’s amazing value for money at only
£5.99.
Cookbook review: The Indian Bible
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-6325-9
My Indian Kitchen
Even the title holds out great hope for the oft-confused
home cook. We are looking for books written with us in mind. A book
that takes note of the fact that we are unlikely in the West to have
“staff”, a tandoor and a man that pops by on a Wednesday just to grind
some spices.
Hari Nayak might not be a familiar name to us in the UK but he is
deservedly celebrated in the US. He has his own food consultancy
business and is a restaurateur and promoter of Indian food in America,
and he is obviously a talented cookbook author. Although he was born
and brought up in India he is a graduate of the CIA. No, dear European
reader, Hari isn’t a spy for the US government. CIA in this case is the
prestigious Culinary Institute of America. He is a man who definitely
has a cheffy finger on the pulses of both East and West. A unique
perspective.
This is a stunning large-format cookbook that you would want to own
even if you didn’t have a notion where your own kitchen might be. (It's
that room with a couple of taps and the microwave.) It entices the
reader with images of spices and finished dishes, and it will truly
tempt you away from your culinary lethargy (or fear) and into your own
kitchen to replicate some memorable dishes that offer authentic tastes
of the Subcontinent.
Hari does not assume that the reader in an expert Indian cook or indeed
a cook of any ethnic persuasion. The recipes are well-written and give
an overview of classic Indian dishes. Classic, yes, but that does not
translate to difficult or long-winded. You will be able to make
everything here with ease and with the use of spices that you will
likely find in your local supermarket.
One of the simplest recipes is for Street-style Grilled Corn on the
Cob. It’s summer so the grill is a prominent item of garden furniture.
Do something amazing with humble ears of corn, and perhaps consider a
whole al fresco Indian meal by adding Masala Lamb Chops and a green
salad. I would suggest preparing more lamb than you would normally, as
the aroma of grilling meat is mouth-watering. A memorable side dish
would be Hari's Smoky Fire-roasted Aubergine (eggplant). This is
flavourful and comforting and can also be used as a dip with Indian
breads as a starter.
Hari has introduced some elements of innovation. Food should, after
all, evolve so Hari gives a nod to his cultural heritage with chai, but
goes on to use that favourite beverage in a decadent Crème
Brulée. India does have a good array of traditional desserts but
Chai Crème Brulée is a twist on the French original, some
might say an improvement. Don’t just save this for the end of an Indian
meal. It will get compliments at any dinner party.
My pick of the book is probably the recipe for Marinated Roast Leg of
Lamb. It’s not something you’ll rustle up in a hurry for unexpected
guests but it is worth the time invested. Having said that the time
invested is mostly marinating time and you don’t have to keep the lamb
company while it’s absorbing those spices. It’s a straightforward dish
to make and one that you will make often. The perfume of this cooking
meat will fill your home and tease your guests with the promise of a
delicious Indian meal before they even reach the table. The leftovers
make flavourful sandwiches, or they would if there were any, but that
is unlikely.
The lavish photography makes every dish look enticing and even those
who are familiar with Indian recipes will find lots of new delights;
but this book will be particularly inspiring for those who might have
only eaten Indian food in restaurants. My Indian Kitchen offers
authentic and accessible dishes that can be prepared without tears (get
someone else to peel the onions). A gift-quality book with which you
will not want to part.
My Indian Kitchen
Author: Hari Nayak
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
ISBN 978-0-8048-4089-7
Classic Indian Recipes
I am often put off by cookbook titles that include the
word ‘classic’. That term sometimes indicates that the dishes are going
to be over-fussy and will be relying on rare and costly ingredients for
impact. One has visions of the kitchens of Versailles bustling with
portly and ill-tempered chefs presiding over an army of downtrodden
kitchen menials and each one of those babysitting larks tongues or
poking a pot of peacock porridge. If one is considering Indian cuisine
the vision is even more intimidating. Will there be a ‘classic’ and
indispensible kitchen gadget (probably in brass and exquisitely
wrought) to purchase? Perhaps those unfamiliar spices demand a trip to
a charmingly exotic gully in Delhi – although one could try the
internet.
Fear none of the above scenarios, dear reader. Manju Malhi presents her
Classic Indian Recipes and they are written with the modern home cook
in mind. Yes, they are ‘classic’ but that word could be replaced
with ‘I have heard of those’ or ‘familiar restaurant’ and equally apt
‘easily made in Twickenham’ (reader substitutes his/her own address).
Lots here to excite and encourage domestic gods or goddesses who have
hitherto been a bit shy in the presence of a green chilli.
Manju is an Indian but she is also a West London lass, so has an
insight into the anxieties of Europeans who would like to make
traditional Indian food but have felt themselves incapable. There is no
magic formula to preparing striking samosas or amazing aloo gobhi. All
you need is a recipe and a bit of confidence. There are no mysterious
cooking techniques to master, no additional kitchen equipment needed
(assuming you already have a hob) and once you have amassed a
collection of half a dozen or so spices you will be ready to tackle all
the recipes listed here.
These are simple recipes to follow and they encompass some of my
personal favourite dishes. The Sweet Lemon Pickle will be a flavourful
garnish to many of the other dishes listed. Anything that only has to
be prepared once every 8 months is bound to be popular with all of us
with a passion for good food but who have little time. The ubiquitous
coriander and mint chutneys are also here and they will be your
essential condiments.
I love dal (lentils) in all its forms. Dal Makhani is a perennial
restaurant item, as its rich, spiced silkiness is deeply
comforting. It’s rather calorific but a little goes a long way.
Simple to make at home and the process can be speeded if one has access
to a pressure cooker. It seems that every housewife of Indian descent
has at least one and perhaps two of these practical contraptions.
You’ll manage very well with just your regular pots, though.
Indian sweets and desserts are overlooked by many other Indian
cookbooks, but here Manju offers a creditable selection that takes us
from the relatively healthy yoghurt-based Shrikhand to the sweet that
I’d fight you for – Doodh ki Barfi. You might not recognise the name
but think of those Indian sweetshops with their piles of cubed and
sugary delights. You can now make these chez vous for a fraction of the
price of the commercial varieties. I would add a little cardamom for
extra flavour.
My pick of the book is a recipe for a vegetable which is delicious
served alongside almost anything. It would work well as a nibble with
drinks and the only drawback is that you will never be able to make
enough. It’s Bhindi Jaipuri and it’s addictive. Okra is about as
popular in urban legend as broccoli but this is a must-try dish. The
coated and fried okra are transformed into vibrant and crunchy morsels.
Moreish – but feel noble: they are vegetables and one of your 5-a-day.
Classic Indian Recipes by Manju Malhi is great value for money and a
solid introduction to Indian cooking.
Asian cookbook review: Classic Indian Recipes
Author: Manju Malhi
Published by: Hamlyn
Price: £10.00
ISBN 978-0-600-62235-2
Mighty Spice
John Gregory-Smith has penned a unique and fascinating
volume. It considers the spices themselves rather than focusing on a
particular culinary tradition. So many countries have cuisines that
showcase spices. Chilli is common across the globe but was unknown
outside the Americas before that continent was discovered; these days
we could not consider making an Asian curry without a few chillies.
Mighty Spice takes advantage of a selection of 25 or so spices and they
will all be available to you in your local supermarket, or online if
you live in a lighthouse. No, don’t take fright at the imagined
complexity of these dishes. John uses a maximum of five spices for each
recipe. Once you have your collection of powders and seeds then you’ll
be set to make everything in this book: simple yet vibrant dishes.
There is an element of food-related tour guide here. John has travelled
extensively and, naturally, he has been eating along the way. He wasn’t
your usual backpacker: he had a successful career in the food industry
but this was still a voyage of discovery, just as all good voyages
should be. He ate in homes and in favourite cafés, every meal
giving inspiration and an overview of that particular country’s
culinary heritage.
There are plenty of dishes here that you will recognise from your own
travels but many more that will be less familiar. Indonesian Nasi
Goreng is a perennial restaurant favourite but it’s quick and simple to
prepare at home and this recipe makes good use of leftover cooked rice.
Always cook more rice than you need just to have some “fast food” the
following day.
Mexican dishes are more popular than ever. Frijoles Negros – Mexican
re-fried beans – are ubiquitous in Mexican homes and Mexican
restaurants across the globe. This is comfort food at its finest.
Creamy and substantial and a side dish for any self-respecting taco or
tortilla or Mexican scrambled eggs for a memorable breakfast.
Bangkok Garlic and Black Pepper Chicken is my pick of the book. Yes,
just pepper as your main spice and I bet you already have that in your
store cupboard. Garlic is in every supermarket and this recipe uses 8
cloves, which is probably a whole head. That sounds like a lot for just
500g of chicken breast meat, but garlic has two faces: it's pungent and
spicy in its raw form but it becomes unctuous, sweet and rich when
cooked. Chicken is still the most economic of meats and this dish is of
dinner-party quality.
Mighty Spice is ideal for lovers of flavourful dishes. John
Gregory-Smith’s thoughtfully-selected recipes showcase particular
spices but also give an overview of culinary style. These dishes range
from the chilli-hot to the mildly-aromatic. There are those that are
robust and others, like John's selection of desserts, that are sweet
and perfumed. Something for every taste.
Cookbook review: Mighty Spice
Author: John Gregory-Smith
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84483-991-9
Cooking with Olive Oil
An acquaintance gave me this book, Cooking with Olive Oil.
I was rather surprised. No, in truth I was shocked.
The title ‘Cooking with Olive Oil’ explains just what this book is
about. Europeans, and especially those fortunate enough to live an
olive-pit’s throw from the Mediterranean have used this “green gold”
for millennia. It has been widely promoted as a healthy food, natural
and delicious. Yes, olive oil and I have been on nodding terms for several
decades.
So, OK, it was not the olive oil that stunned me but rather my
acquaintance. Sanjeev Kapoor is perhaps the most celebrated and
recognised face in India. He can hardly walk a few yards even in
England without being recognised, his hand pumped, a snap for the album
taken, and even his feet touched by those who admire the most-viewed
chef on the planet. Sanjeev Kapoor has penned a book on, obviously,
cooking with olive oil, but this is Indian food cooked with olive oil
and that is tantamount to a revolution!
So many people in the UK complain that Indian food in restaurants is
too heavy and oily. That has changed over the last years, and now we
have many fine Indian restaurants which replicate traditional home
cooking and authentic fare. Those gloopy and oil-drenched “curries” are
still with us but they are fewer these days. The best Indian food is
often found in homes and the insertion of olive oil into the kitchen
larder adds to the appeal of this great and classic cuisine.
So is this still “classic” Indian food? Well, yes indeed. A cuisine
must live and evolve. We think of Indian dishes as being chilli-hot
with good use being made of potatoes and tomatoes. But those
ingredients are not indigenous to the Subcontinent – they arrived with
the discovery of the New World. Amazing food should never be limited by
anything other than good taste and imagination. Olive oil is a natural
and healthful addition to the regular battery of Indian ingredients.
Part of the inspiration for this book came from Sanjeev's own home
cook, a lady of fairly advanced years who used some bottles of olive
oil just because they were there. Her endorsement must be taken
seriously as she is, after all, the chef to a chef. The family had been
unaware that they had been enjoying olive oil in place of the regular
choice for a while. I guess that was the most convincing of blind
tastings.
This book is full of tempting Indian dishes that have been adapted take
advantage of the positive qualities of olive oil. Several recipes also
include the olives themselves, to offer an intriguing and unique
fusion. Carrot, Raisin and Black Olive Salad is reminiscent of those
North African side dishes found along the southern coast of the
Mediterranean. Corn Bhel with Tomato and Olives has its origins in the
snack culture of India.
My pick of the book is Punjabi Kadhi. These are spicy and aromatic
pakoras dressed with a yoghurt-based sauce. The dumplings are
deep-fried in olive oil but, cooked at the right temperature, these
will absorb hardly any oil, making this a delicious and guilt-free
meal. That’s dinner this evening, chez nous.
Cooking with Olive Oil by Sanjeev Kapoor will appeal to all of us, and
particularly to those who have health or weight issues. A simple
replacement of olive oil for your habitual medium is a 21st century
departure, but it’s a healthy choice rather than a trendy fad. No
flavour is diminished and the olive oil will not be noticed, even by
the purists, in those hearty and flavourful dishes.
Cooking with Olive Oil
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan Ltd
ISBN 978-81-7991-497-7
Sanjeev
Kapoor - Master of the Art of Indian Cooking
Talking on the radio a few months ago, I was musing on
books I would take to a desert island. Those who know this city ‘girl’
will understand that the prospect of an isolated space would induce
sweaty palms. Red buses and black taxis are my comfort zone.
My choice of essential reading matter was at that time the (mythical)
Marine Carpentry for the Beginner, with chapters on “How to whittle a
speedboat out of a log” and “Making an outboard motor from a coconut
and two sardines.” Sanjeev Kapoor has swept that volume from my
home-made fantasy island bookshelf, and replaced it with Mastering the
Art of Indian Cooking.
We met in a comfy corner of London’s celebrated Bombay Brasserie, a
favourite restaurant with not only plenty of buses and taxis nearby but
the security of Gloucester Road Underground on the doorstep. Sanjeev
Kapoor is the least affected and most charming of celebrities I have
ever met – a funny, warm character that truly is in life exactly as his
TV persona. He has been voted one of the most trusted men in India.
Sanjeev Kapoor is perhaps the best-known chef in the world. If the name
is not familiar then I could guess that you are not Indian or Asian of
any description. This man stars in Khana Khazana (it is actually
India’s longest-running TV show) which broadcasts to 120 countries and
in 2010 was estimated to have more than 500 million viewers. He now has
his own food-dedicated TV station aptly called Foodfood. He remembers
that “Some said that 24-hour food TV would never work, but it does. We
keep the content pertinent to the Asian market. We give viewers what
they want – recipes that they really would like to cook themselves.” He
was the first TV chef to become a culinary star. “Till that time chefs
were not really appreciated. People were almost sympathetic when they
saw me on TV. They hoped that I would get a proper job in the near
future,” he joked. He has been recognised as giving the food industry
and chefs in India respectability, and he himself has gained much
personal caché. Richard Quest selected Sanjeev Kapoor as one of
the top celebrity chefs in the world, along with Gordon Ramsay, Jamie
Oliver and Wolfgang Puck, featuring them in his programme “Quest” on
the CNN channel.
Sanjeev started in the hospitality industry in 1984 with a Diploma in
Hotel Management from the Indian Institute of Hotel Management (IIHM)
in Pusa. He was academically brilliant so his choice surprised some,
who had expected him to become an engineer or a doctor. Many Indian
chefs have come from families who have had a connection to restaurants,
hotels or catering, but Sanjeev chose this path independently, not
being associated with any foodie family firm. “My Dad used to cook
wonderful meat dishes. In those days it was unusual for a man in India
to cook at home.” Perhaps his father sowed the seed of Sanjeev’s future
success.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is the latest in a
steady stream of cookbooks penned by this Indian culinary worthy. All
others, although eminently accessible to the Western audience, have
been written for the Asian reader. This latest tome offers dishes
selected for those outside the Subcontinent. The recipes are not
‘dumbed-down’ for the non-Indian palate, but they have been chosen to
introduce an array of both classic and contemporary delights that can
easily be prepared with the use of your regular high-street shops. For
those folk who live in a lighthouse off the coast of Shetland then
there is always the internet.
Sanjeev Kapoor is on a panel of India’s Ministry of Tourism set up
specifically to document Indian cuisine and to present to the world an
authentic view of these classic dishes. We are all very enthusiastic
about French cuisine and it has indeed given us so much: remarkable
patisserie, memorable sauces, refined plates; but the cuisine of India
has been for too long overlooked. It should, in my humble opinion,
stand proudly shoulder-to-shoulder with French cooking. Different but
equal in every regard.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking would be my all-encompassing
cookbook for my island adventure. Yes, this book is a considerable
size. No, it is not garnished with photographs of exotic food shown
tastefully balanced on the back of an elephant. Not a single lacy dosa
silhouetted in front of the Taj Mahal. This is a straightforward book
of recipes that you can and will make in your very own and not very
exotic kitchen. There are more than 500 recipes listed here. Many will
be familiar but there will be others that reflect Indian home cooking,
and it’s unlikely you would have found them on any restaurant menu.
A quick flick through the pages will assure you that the majority of
these recipes are simple. Note that the dishes that seem to require a
lengthy list of ingredients are easy to prepare. That list will
comprise spices that you will find in your supermarket. Once you have
your battery of half a dozen or so common spices then you are set to
make pretty much all the dishes collected here. Just add a couple of
fresh ingredients, fish, flesh or veggies, and dinner is on the way.
Not even home cooks in India want to spend too much time chained to the
range.
Beans Poriyal represents the easy yet truly Indian dishes found in
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking. Few ingredients, which combine to
make boring green beans a thing of the past. Ten minutes cooking time
gives a delicious side dish for an Asian or European meal. The majority
of Indians are full-time or part-time vegetarians so Indian cuisine
offers a wealth of vibrant yet healthy dishes for those who prefer to
stick to vegetables. The spices in Indian food compensate for the lack
of animal, so even card-carrying carnivores will be wooed by these
offerings.
I love Shrimp Balchao. I could consume this pickled Goan delicacy by
the bucket-full. It’s eaten with rice or even with the Goan savoury
coconut cakes called Sannas (included in this volume). This isn’t a
seafood version of our English pickled onions. Shrimp Balchao is a
sweet and sour preparation that is moreish. The vinegar is added early
in the cooking and the sugar added near the end to produce a zesty and
striking, well-balanced dish in less time than ordering a take-away.
Indian sweets are seldom found on restaurant menus. There are plenty of
sweetshops in Indian neighbourhoods but unless you are lucky enough to
live near one you’ll want a good recipe. Chocolate Walnut Burfy is a
two-layered confection made with rich solid condensed milk (found in
Asian supermarkets or on the internet for those in the lighthouse). It
has a shelf life of only a day or so but it will be gone before the
time’s up.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is, like the author, trustworthy.
No need to be an expert in the kitchen. The ingredients for the dishes
are not expensive. In fact the most costly and indispensible ingredient
will be the second copy of this book. You will want to keep that in the
kitchen and at hand to use frequently. It will become stained and
dog-eared over the years. It will naturally fall open at favourite
pages after a decade or two. Mine is already a little creased around
Shahi Paneer and a peppercorn is acting as a book-mark at Chettinadu
Kozhi Sambhar.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is a must-have for any serious
cookbook collector or lover of real Indian food. It will, I feel sure,
become the Indian equivalent in status of the French Larousse
Gastronomique. Sanjeev Kapoor presents us with a delicious and
practical masterwork that is entirely relevant to today’s lifestyle and
tastes in both the East and West. Amazing value for money.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Stewart Tabori and Chang (Abrams)
Price: £19.00, $27.28
ISBN: 978-1-58479-933-7 (UK)
ISBN-10: 1584799331 (US)
ISBN-13: 978-1584799337 (US)
Japanese Bible
There is no denying the popularity of Japanese food
in the UK these days. There has been a proliferation of new restaurants
showcasing that cuisine. All of our cities will have some and many have
a slew of sushi-peddling establishments, but few offer extensive menus of
cooked Japanese food. Even the Japanese do not live by sushi alone. Nice from time to
time but boring for both lunch and dinner seven days a week.
We can easily cook real Japanese food ourselves.
The Japanese have cold snowy winters just as we do in Northern Europe
and they need hearty and hot fare just like us. This volume offers a good
over-view of authentic Japanese cuisine, and the ingredients will mostly be on-hand
in your local chain supermarket.
If one still craves cool rice then try Onigiri.
These are stuffed rice balls and the equivalent of a sandwich. They are
a staple of bento boxes which are sold at every Japanese railway station.
They are simple to make and can be filled either
with some well-flavoured left-overs or the suggested stuffing of tuna and
Japanese mayo. These would be a great addition to an Asian buffet.
Donburi are those bowls of hot rice with various toppings. Prawn Sukiyaki on rice
has a mound of garnishes that are light yet flavourful. It’s a complete meal
and very attractive. Use the basic recipe but substitute the seafood with thin
slices of cooked beef or a selection of vegetables. Fried Pork Cutlet might not
sound very Japanese but in fact it’s very popular and it makes a good
topping. Donburi is traditional and versatile.
Green Tea Ice-cream is my pick of the book. Tea in all its guises is more popular
than ever these days. We have enjoyed a revival in the classic English
afternoon tea, but it’s the health properties that have given these leaves a boost.
Japanese green tea has a distinctive agreeable taste and imparts a beautiful
pistachio-green colour when used to infuse milk-based dishes. Green Tea Ice Cream makes
a fitting end to a Japanese meal, where presentation is key to success.
Its delicate flavour calms the palate, and a simple mound of this could
persuade many of us down the Zen path. Nothing fussy here: few ingredients
providing a confection that is as correct as an understated but well-crafted
Ikebana – flower arrangement...and made in your very own understated
IKEA-inspired kitchen.
Japanese food might have been hi-jacked by fast conveyor-belt sushi shops, and they
do have their place in the food chain, but we can prepare authentic Japanese
food at home. No need for special knives or crockery, and the Japanese Bible
introduces the reader to the dishes that the Japanese would cook for themselves.
Asian cookbook review: Japanese Bible
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN: 978-1-4053-6326-6
Thai Bible
A few years ago Thai restaurants were rare but that’s
changed, and some lucky folks even get to have holidays in Thailand.
They return home and search for those exotic and evocative tastes of
Bangkok. Whilst it’s true that one can find some authentic dishes in
those aforementioned restaurants, one can’t eat out very often
...unless one is also a restaurant reviewer.
Thai Bible is part of a series from Dorling Kindersley, little books
that seem to weigh a lot for their size. 150 or so recipes in this
particular volume and a raft of colour photographs to tempt one into
the kitchen. The cooking techniques are simple and most dishes are fast
to prepare. You’ll find the majority of the ingredients at your local
supermarket, although a trip to an Asian store might be necessary if
you live in anything other than a cosmopolitan neighbourhood.
Looks like summer has arrived. It stayed dry in London for the Royal
Wedding and many of us have got the barbecue dusted off in readiness
for some scorching days. Well, OK, that might be a bit optimistic but
we can indeed expect some al fresco dining opportunities, and there are
many dishes in this volume that would lend themselves to such
occasions. Barbecued Pork Ribs are simple to prepare and the essential
marinade has few ingredients, all of which can be found in your regular
supermarket. I am sure the recipe would work equally well if one used
pork chops or even pork loin. Black pepper is the predominant spice
here.
Asian desserts are few and far between, so it was a surprise to find
almost a dozen here. Yes, they are Thai but they would be an apt finale
to any Asian meal. Coconut Custard has only four ingredients and makes
a stunning dinner party dessert with very little effort. Perhaps Mango
Sorbet would be my star choice from the Sweets chapter, though. This
recipe needs an ice-cream maker but you will be delighted by the end
results of your very slight labours. Mango has a distinct flavour that
loses nothing of its intensity in the freezing process.
I have several favourite recipes from Thai Bible. Mushrooms and Chinese
Cabbage in Oyster Sauce is savoury and moreish. The oyster sauce is not
at all fishy. It has in fact an almost meaty flavour which adds
richness to simple vegetarian dishes.
Grilled Mackerel with Chilli and Tamarind Sauce is the must-try
recommendation. Another one for the barbecue. This is an oily fish and
we should eat more of it. It has a marked flavour that I find agreeable
but this recipe offers a marinade of spicy character which might
persuade guests who don’t like fishy fish to try a corner. The fish
will cook in just 6 minutes so still time to slap on some burgers if
those friends are still unconvinced.
Thai Bible is amazing value for money. A chunky book filled with
practical recipes to remind you of long-haul vacations. Avoid the
airport misery and enjoy those tantalising aromas and delicious meals
emanating from your own kitchen.
Asian cookbook review: Thai Bible
Author: Jackie Passmore
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-6323-5
Food from Northern Laos
– The Boat Landing Cookbook
I am driven to describe some cookbooks as recipes with a
bit of travel. Other volumes I have reviewed as travel adventures with
some cooking on the side. Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing
Cookbook is as much a travelogue as an encyclopaedia of every culinary
tradition of Northern Laos.
Note that I suggest that there is more than one cuisine in Northern
Laos. In fact there are several distinct cultures that call this region
home. Some of these groups have lived there for many hundreds of years
whilst others have moved in more recently from the neighbouring
countries, and naturally they have brought with them their style of
cooking and their love of diverse foods.
The Boat Landing in question is a guest house and restaurant which
introduces travellers to the food of this corner of Laos. These dishes
represent the regular fare of the local population. They have been
carefully chosen to appeal to the Western palate but are authentic and
un-adapted.
Now, it’s true that there are some recipes here that will be a bit
challenging if one does not either live in the tropics or have access
to a good Asian supermarket. But there is much here that can be made
with the spices that you will likely have lingering at the back of your
larder. There are even dishes that are familiar to lovers of south-east
Asian food. Pho originated in Vietnam but now this soup has become a
Laotian favourite.
The book starts by tempting the reader to visit this charming and
culturally rich corner of our shrinking planet. Each of the resident
communities is presented in prose and pictures. It’s a small world
that’s fast changing – this book is as much about archiving the lives
and values of the population of Northern Laos as it is about preserving
its culinary heritage. A couple of hours in the company of this book
will have even those who are strangers to the inside of a kitchen
booking a flight to Laos.
Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing Cookbook is a must for any
passionate cook who might be considering a trip to south-east Asia.
Many of us are enthusiastic home chefs who are comfortable preparing
Indian curries, Japanese domburis, Chinese dim sum and Thai soups, but
this book introduces so many unfamiliar ingredients and combinations.
Yes, it’s true that some dishes have been influenced by other cuisines,
but Laos has indeed cultivated its own culinary identity.
Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing Cookbook is well written,
and illustrated by some of the finest photography of that region that
one will ever find. A credit to both the author, Dorothy Culloty, and
the photographer, Kees Sprengers.
Asian cookbook review: Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing
Cookbook
Author: Dorothy Culloty; photographer: Kees Sprengers
Published by: Galangal Press
ISBN 978-0-473-17236-7
100 Essential Curries –
Madhur Jaffrey
Whilst it’s some time since the Grande Dame of Indian
cooking has graced our screens, it’s true that she remains our classic
Indian TV food presenter. She wafted into our homes in a flourish of
sari and with a collection of exotic ingredients that many of us had
never heard of.
A couple of decades have passed since that first introduction. Now we
all know that ginger doesn’t come in a jar with syrup, and it did have
another form before it became a powder. We can appreciate that there
really is no such thing as curry powder, although that lurid yellow
compound from a cardboard tub was our only “Indian” ingredient for a
century or so. But Madhur is thankfully still with us to offer us
authentic and adapted recipes to inspire us anew.
100 Essential Curries offers, yes, curry but also those dishes that one
adds to make a complete meal. One could choose to use plain rice to
accompany sauced dishes but Madhur offers some traditional alternatives
that are simple to prepare. Rice with Black-eyed Peas is hearty and
perfumed with cloves and a hint of garam masala. Lemon rice is subtle
and light and I often serve this with fish. It was originally made with
lime juice but this recipe has both lemon juice and rind. It’s worth
getting curry leaves rather than substituting basil if one is having
this with other Indian dishes.
More and more of us are eating less and less meat these days. Some
folks want to treat their bodies like temples and prefer to tread the
meat-free path. Others have issues revolving around the non-consumption
of anything with pretty eyes. Lentils are an ideal meat substitute. Not
that I am suggesting that meat is such an invaluable part of the diet
of any thinking person that it needs a conscious replacement. India has
a wealth of lentil dishes that are economic and nutritious but also
delicious and that is, after all, your reason for eating them.
Red Lentils with the celebrated Indian five-spice, panchphoran, has few
ingredients and takes only 40 minutes to cook, and even less time than
that if one uses a pressure cooker, ubiquitous in Indian kitchens even
in the UK. The five spices in question are cumin, fennel, mustard
seeds, fenugreek and black onion seeds. It’s sold ready prepared or one
could use equal quantities of the above and mix the spices oneself.
This is an aromatic dal that can be eaten with just Indian bread or
rice, or as a side dish for any Indian meat or fish.
My pick of the book is Cardamom and Black Pepper Chicken. All the
spices are those you will likely have in your larder and the dish,
after marinating, takes about as long as does the rice to cook. This
recipe uses black pepper as flavouring rather than as a background
seasoning. It gives not only heat but a distinct taste to the dish. A
winter warmer.
100 Essential Curries by Madhur Jaffrey has a melange of contemporary
and traditional recipes. They have been chosen with the European home
cook in mind. There is nothing here that will be over-taxing for the
novice, and there is plenty to excite the interest of those who already
have a collection of Indian cookbooks. Each recipe has a picture on the
opposite page and that always gives a bit of confidence, even to us
practised cooks. Here you will find real Indian food from a real
Indian. Madhur reminds us of the reasons we took her to our hearts in
the first place. She is quite simply a good food writer, and this
volume must be just about the best value of all her cookbooks. Buy this
and the others will surely follow.
Asian cookbook review: 100 Essential Curries
Author: Madhur Jaffrey
Published by: Random House
Price: £7.99
ISBN: 978-0-09-194052-2
Sichuan Cookery
I had never been a great Chinese food aficionado. I didn’t
know enough about the subject to make informed choices when confronted
by a Chinese restaurant menu. So much of it seemed to be rather mild,
although pleasant and with diversity of texture, and so often
attractively presented.
There were, however, those dishes that did rather tempt and intrigue
me. Those plates of red-lacquered meats or vegetables with a strand of
sliced red chilli and perhaps a deep-fried peanut or two. Why were
these dishes so different? It’s still Chinese food isn’t it? Well, yes,
but China is a big country and Sichuan is the size of France. There is
bound to be culinary diversity and I had struck on a regional cuisine
that did appeal.
Fuchsia Dunlop is our very own Grande Dame (I think she might be a bit
young to shoulder that burden) of Sichuan cooking. She isn’t given that
accolade because she has enjoyed many a spicy meal in restaurants. She
hasn’t been acclaimed as an authority because she has attended a few
Chinese cookery classes at her local adult education college. Fuchsia
honestly is an expert and is considered so even by Chinese citizens –
she has lived and studied in this very province of Sichuan.
Sichuan Cookery is truly a worthy tome that will enthral anyone who has
enjoyed those hot-chilli flavours and the unique numbing sensation and
savour of Sichuan pepper. It’s a book for lovers of robust tastes and
gloriously richly coloured foods. It’s a volume that truly does get
one’s mouth watering.
This book is a veritable culinary encyclopaedia and travelogue. It
offers the academic a feast of facts and historic anecdote. For those
of us who want to grab the wok and cook, Fuchsia presents us with the
best dishes that the region has to offer. Plenty of spice but also a
raft of subtle recipes that are equally authentic. For example, fried
eggs with tomatoes only has salt and pepper and the green parts of
spring onions for seasoning.
The spicy dishes will be the ones that will likely get your attention,
though. They will be the reason you were drawn to the book. They are
here in profusion, packed with flavour but simple to prepare. There is
a glossary of ingredients so you’ll be able to complete your Sichuan
pantry with just a quick trip to Chinatown or a simple surf of the net.
I have favourites from every section of this book and Steamed Buns with
Spicy Beansprout Stuffing is my choice from the Streetfood chapter.
There are steamed buns found in various parts of China but this recipe
is distinctly Sichuanese with a filling flavoured with chilli bean
paste. Fun finger food.
The pick of the book, for me at least, is Spicy Beef Slices with
Tangerine Peel. It has all those components that make this particular
Chinese cuisine so enticing. Chilli spice balanced with layers of
well-chosen flavours, in this case hints of citrus and Sichuan pepper
for that typical taste and tongue-tingle.
Fuchsia Dunlop is rightly recognised for her considerable knowledge but
you’ll buy this book because she shares her know-how in a most engaging
fashion. She writes with style, humour and consideration for the home
cook, whom she supports and encourages. This is surely, or will in
future become, a Chinese cookery classic.
Sichuan Cookery
Author: Fuchsia Dunlop
Published by: Penguin
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-140-29541-2
Ken Hom –
100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
I have long been a fan of compact and concise cookbooks,
the ones that present a recipe on one page and a confidence-boosting
picture on the opposite page, single-topic books that one will truly
take into the kitchen and use. This series from My Kitchen Table (they
have a supporting web site at http://www.mykitchentable.co.uk) ticks
all the boxes for me. Yes, the format is just right, but the recipes
are what count.
Ken Hom is an internationally celebrated authority on Chinese food and
cooking. He was the first Chinese to have great success on UK TV with
his ground-breaking cookery show in 1984, Ken Hom's Chinese Cookery on
the BBC. He began his culinary career in his uncle's Chicago restaurant
at the tender age of eleven, before eventually becoming a lecturer at
California's Culinary Academy.
He has written over 30 cookery books which have been well received
worldwide. He has fronted numerous TV series as well as having his own
product range including a wok, an example of which graces the kitchen
of this reviewer. Ken was awarded an honorary OBE for 'services to the
culinary arts' in 2009 so it’s evident that we in Britain have adopted
this man and taken him to our hearts.
His list of culinary achievements and gongs is impressive but we just
love this man’s food. He has become so successful because his food is
accessible. We have an abundance of oriental ingredients and are drawn
to healthy and quick dishes made with either a Ken Hom wok or one
purchased from the local Chinese grocer. 100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
reflects the way we eat today ...or should.
The recipes are divided by food type. Plenty of vegetarian and fish
dishes but even the meat dishes are fast to prepare and will leave you
feeling noble. There are Chinese dishes aplenty here but also spicy
temptations from Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia and
even Italy. The focus is on the cooking method rather than the
geographic origin of the food.
I have heard so many people complain that they can’t make fried rice.
They wonder if there is some kind of secret or perhaps there is a
particular variety of rice known only to the owners of Chinese
restaurants or take-aways. Well, yes, there is a little secret known
only to millions. One must use cooked and cooled rice. Ken offers us a
basic but indispensable recipe for egg-fried rice. It’s fool-proof and
will be a key element in turning many of these recipes into full meals.
We should all eat more fish. It’s healthy and there is plenty of
choice. Stir-Fried Fish with Black Bean Sauce is the dish that will
inspire those who insist they hate fish because it’s bland. This recipe
makes use of pungent and salty black beans. 1½ teaspoons are all
that’s needed to flavour fish enough for 4 people. Robust flavours and
a meal that doesn’t cost the earth.
My pick of the book is Spicy Chicken with Peanuts. It’s also known as
Kung Pau or Kung Po Chicken, an attractive dish of lacquered meat with
flecks of vibrant red dried chillies. A recipe for which to use that
dusty bottle of dry sherry – it makes a convincing substitute for
shaoxing rice wine.
100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes is a practical collection of well-chosen
recipes to suit all tastes. We all want to eat well but without the
need to take up long-term residence in the kitchen. This will likely
become the book you reach for when strapped for time or cash.
Great value for money.
Author: Ken Hom
Title: 100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
Published by: Random House
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84-990147-5
Curry Easy – Madhur Jaffrey
Too many years ago, Madhur Jaffrey graced our screens. For
anyone with a litre or more of Indian genetic material
it was a revelation. Yes, there had always been Indians on TV: Arapaho,
Mohawk, Apache. Some of us thought we might have a bit of Sioux
coursing through our veins as that is what the media presented as
‘Indian’. Always the bad guys and always getting creamed by the
cavalry. Although in truth film did introduce a bit of balance, in the
guise of the very Welsh Richard Burton playing an Indian doctor in The
Rains of Ranchipur – but it only added to the cultural confusion. Yes,
Madhur Jaffrey was one of the first high-profile Asian Indians on
British television.
Madhur Jaffrey was a real Indian, and with a prime-time show. She
appeared with a waft of silken sari elegance. This actress used her
front-of-camera professionalism to charm her new-found audience with
their first taste of Indian cooking. The Great British Public were
hooked. Madhur's book, which was the show companion, was the first
Indian cookbook that the majority of us had seen.
Curry Easy exudes the same accessible style that one had come to expect
from the Grande Dame of all things Sub-continentally culinary. It’s
been a while since she has published in the UK, and this is a volume
that will introduce a new generation of food lovers to simple
home-style Indian cooking. Madhur admits that this cookbook has in mind
those who are strapped for time. She offers short-cuts and handy hints
that are welcome and practical. Her tip on microwaving papadoms will
encourage a peak in supermarket sales of those crispy delights.
This is a book for those who want to eat authentic food in a timely
fashion. Yes, still authentic because this is indeed the way that
Indian women cook. Visit any Asian home in the UK and you will likely
find a can or two of chickpeas rather than the dry packs. Yes, real
Indians do buy ready-mixed garam masala in bags, and peas can be found
in every freezer. The ingredients for these recipes are not lengthy and
although this isn’t your typical fast food it is good food in a hurry.
The slower-cooked dishes will allow you time to relax while tantalising
aromas fill your flat, or permeate your penthouse.
Baked Chicken Curry is a dish that is economic enough to become a
weekday family favourite, but it’s also ideal for entertaining. Most of
the work can be done the day before, or in the morning for an evening
meal – marinate and bake. As with all of these recipes it takes
advantage of common Indian spices that you will undoubtedly already
have at the back of your larder.
Aubergine with Tomatoes is one of my picks of the book. It’s
reminiscent of a recipe from one of Madhur’s original books for a
vegetable preparation, from Hyderabad I think. This is a less oily
version but is equally full-on in the flavour department, and it does
double duty as both a hot dish and a salad. This could be a striking
summer side dish for grilled meats or fish.
South Indian Potato Curry is comfort food at its finest, another
cost-effective dish that is elevated with a flourish of coconut milk to
finish. That adds a richness and a hint of exotica. The spicing is
restrained and all that’s needed is some traditional bread to scoop up
the sauce. Cooked in less than half an hour, so you’ll be eating before
the regular take-out moped would have arrived. Most folks have a bag of
spuds lurking in the store cupboard, so it’s the dish to cook when you
don’t know what to cook and you “haven’t got anything in”.
Curry Easy is full of simple recipes but one does not have the
impression that these have been dumbed down for the benefit of inept
Europeans. I know of a couple of Indians who have enthused over this
book so I feel no shame in admitting that I found it an absorbing read
– a book that you will quickly put to good use. Congratulations again,
Ms. Jaffrey.
Asian cookbook review: Curry Easy
Author: Madhur Jaffrey
Published by: Ebury Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-09-192314-3
The
Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook – Recipes from Hunan Province
The title of Fuchsia Dunlop’s Chinese cookbook is
intriguing. It might not immediately sound appealing. Is this food for
revolutionaries? Perhaps dishes to be welcomed by malcontent student
activists and probably served from huge vats dotted around government
buildings. It is in fact a tome that could just as reasonably be
entitled the Evolutionary Chinese cookbook as it does indeed chart the
history of the culinary heritage of Hunan Province, incidentally the
home region of Chairman Mao.
Fuchsia Dunlop is European but one suspects that her heart is pure
Chinese. She trained as a chef in China at the Sichuan Institute of
Higher Cuisine in Chengdu where she lived for several years. She is a
fluent Mandarin speaker and is considered one of the UK’s foremost
authorities on Chinese food in all its delicious and diverse guises.
The foreword is penned by none other than Ken Hom, such is the regard
in which this lady is held.
Hunan dishes are prized for their chilli-laden robustness but with the
addition of steamed delicate delights, and tangy fermented black bean
preparations that are truly moreish. This is a cuisine that will turn
the head of any of us who have found the regular Cantonese high-street
‘favourites’ to be somewhat lack-lustre and contrived. I for one could
envisage myself craving Hunan food in the same way as I would the
striking dishes of northern India or Sri Lanka.
There are temptations on every page and these have a gratifyingly short
list of ingredients, all of which will be available in your
supermarket, local Asian grocers or online. A store of half a dozen or
so packs or bottles will supply you with the fixin’s for all these
recipes. You will likely already have a wok, and the traditional wok
scoop, guo chan, will help you to sway like a Chinese chef and even
sound like one. No, you won’t be speaking like a native resident of
Hunan after a moment of stirring, but the distinctive metallic scrape
of gau chan on wok is unique.
Spicy Steamed Pork Buns – duo jiao xiao bau – are simple to make and
are traditional snacks from a teahouse dating back to 1875. The Duyan
survived the worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution, only to be
demolished in the early 2000s. Culinary memories still linger and these
buns must surely be part of the reason for the success of the original
restaurant. The recipe makes 20 dumplings which will disappear in
moments.
Chairman Mao is said to have loved a particular pork dish and now it
bears his name. Mao shi hong shao pou is Red Braised Pork with the
ubiquitous chillies as well as aromatic cassia bark and liquorishy star
anise. Beef with Cumin – zi ran niu rou – takes advantage of a spice
that most of us associate more readily with Indian dishes. This
particular recipe comes from Guchengge restaurant in Chengsha. Cumin
gives a distinct flavour, turning this into real comfort food.
Vegetarians are well catered for. One of the simplest yet most vibrant
preparations here is Stir-fried Peppers with Black Beans and Garlic –
duo chi chu la jiao. It lacks the typical chillies but relies instead
on salty fermented black beans for savour.
The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook is a triumph. It’s a marvellous
recipe book without doubt. It introduces the reader to a lesser-known
style of Chinese food – glossy sauces with rich and memorable flavours.
It is also a culinary travelogue and regional history, a book to cook
from and to snuggle down with on long winter nights. I assure you,
you’ll want to do both. Outstanding.
The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook – Recipes from Hunan Province
Author: Fuchsia Dunlop
Published by: Ebury Press
Price: £27.50
ISBN 0 091 90483 8
Café Spice
Namasté: Cookbook
There is an Indian restaurant just a stone’s throw from
Tower Bridge. A red brick building, imposing steps to self-important
doors, stained glass, high ceilings and striking decor. That’s
Café Spice Namasté – an emporium of fine Indian food with
a menu that reflects the chef’s Parsee roots.
Chef Cyrus Todiwala has talent, a celebrated restaurant, an OBE, and
Pervin, his wife and partner, as his unique assets. This eponymous
restaurant cookbook encapsulates the culinary heritage and love of
quality ingredients for which Cyrus is famed. He is an unapologetic
supporter of British produce and makes use of it at every opportunity
at Café Spice Namasté.
But you won’t be buying this book because it was penned by one of the
Indian restaurant industry’s good guys. You will likely be looking for
a book to cook from. This volume offers Indian recipes that are chosen
to appeal to the European home cook but which are still authentic – a
selection of recipes that will offer something new, even for those of
us with considerable Indian cookbook collections.
Café Spice Namasté Cookbook has the feel of a family
recipe book. Lots of anecdotes and family lore laced with Cyrus’ humour
and easy charm. The food here is simple to prepare and delicious. There
are dishes to impress the in-laws and even more that could become your
own regular weekday fare. This is real honest cooking: dishes for
lovers of good food rather than just “foodies”.
It’s hard to find only a few dishes to mention in a review. I could,
and probably will, graze on all of them and there are over 100 to
choose from. I could start with Onion Bhajia. Not the ubiquitous tennis
ball (or should that be cricket ball?) of a heavy and stodgy mass that
we are so often presented with on high-street snack counters. These
traditional fried delights are much more delicate and addictive.
Talking of street food... Frankie is here. Sounds like the name of a
Bollywood hero, the sort with pearly teeth and mesmerising chest. This
Frankie is a stuffed and egg-enrobed chapatti which was once the fast
food of choice in Mumbai, till the American chains turned heads. A wrap
that will be a favourite with all members of the family.
Seafood aficionados are well-served by this book. Cyrus cheffed in Goa
and so has showcased some of those regional fish dishes here, including
the popular Goan Fish Curry. This can be made even with the humble (and
in my opinion too-often overlooked) coley. An economic yet stunning
fish main course that would delight even your poshest guests. It’s the
coconut that I find so tempting. This can be eaten cold, so it’s
perfect for making ahead when entertaining on our long hot (use your
imagination) summer nights.
You will equally be drawn to this book if you feel your dinner is not
complete without a robust helping of meat. There are plenty of red meat
and chicken dishes as well as recipes for game and exotic protein such
as ostrich, which is becoming more popular. Crocodile also puts in an
appearance and is said to be eaten in central India.
Café Spice Namasté Cookbook is not “surprisingly” good.
Good is exactly what I expected from this well-respected man. Yes, he
is a chef at the top of his game, but he has a natural style and
remains dedicated to enticing ordinary folk into the kitchen. His
recipes are thoughtful and simple to prepare. Truly dishes that you
will return to, time and time again. This book was published in 1998
but it’s worth looking for copies, or contact Café Spice Namasté
directly here. Also consider the soft-cover ‘Indian Summer’, which
contains similar recipes as well as menu ideas for meals to impress.
Café Spice Namasté has an enviable and deserved
reputation and should be a destination restaurant for those who have a
passion for the best of food, and Sub-continental dishes in particular.
It’s been open for 15 years and has a host of regulars who are known by
name and welcomed as friends. I’ll be visiting often and staying long.
Café Spice Namasté:
16 Prescot Street, London E1 8AZ
Mridula Baljekar presents us with another superb
example of her skill as a food writer. Vegetarian Cooking of India is
the
latest in a string of books which exemplify the reasons why she is held
in such
high regard by home cooks, those with a passion for Indian food, and
collectors
of beautiful recipe books.
Vegetarian Cooking of India is a
large format volume
from Aquamarine. This publisher offers some of the most thoughtful and
practical cookbooks around. They have found a path that strikes a
balance
between a food manual and a food annual. Mridula puts recipes in
cultural and
geographic context and there is a very appealing element of food
travelogue.
This is not only a vegetarian cookbook but also a culinary reflection
of regional
diversity.
One can always expect something
striking from
Mridula, and this latest work will not disappoint those who have
enjoyed her previous
recipe collections. She does not assume that her reader has any
particular
kitchen prowess. She starts with an overview of ingredients, equipment
and
techniques. Each recipe includes a few words to give confidence to the
novice
and to inspire the more practised.
There are 80 classic recipes here,
but classic does
not mean that they are facsimiles of those already contained within the
covers
of your other favourite Indian cookbooks. The dishes here are authentic
and
there is something for every taste: Sweet Pineapple Salad flecked with
black mustard
seeds from South India to Potatoes in Chilli-Tamarind Sauce from West
India.
Vegetarian Cooking of India
represents the style of
food that is eaten in homes all over the Subcontinent and indeed in
expatriate
homes worldwide. The dishes are lighter and fresher-tasting than those
you find
in all but the best Indian restaurants. The recipes here contain more
aromatic
spices than searingly hot ones. It’s about flavour rather than fire.
Channa Madra – chickpeas in a
spice-laced yogurt
sauce – is North Indian. This is a substantial dish which will be
appreciated
even by those who would normally crave meat at every meal. The use of
lentils
and beans in these recipes might persuade many carnivores down the
semi-vegetarian
route.
Sanar Kofta – Indian cheese balls
from North East
India – are made with Paneer which can be found in most large
supermarkets. It’s
a mild cheese which absorbs flavours and is used extensively in Indian
kitchens. These balls are covered in a piquant sauce and served with
rice for a
main meal. I would think that they could equally work as a vegetarian
and more
tempting version of the ubiquitous cocktail sausage, which was
passé by the end
of the 60s yet endures in some quarters.
Dimer Dalna – egg, potato and green
pea curry from
East India – is economic and a must-try dish. It is delicately infused
with
cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Mridula serves this with Indian bread
for which
she includes several recipes. Comfort food at its warming finest.
Good Indian desserts are more often
found in Indian
homes than Indian restaurants. Mridula has some tempting traditional
suggestions, and Shrikand – saffron-scented strained yogurt – is one of
my
favourites. It has to be made at least 2 hours in advance so it’s ideal
for the
end of an exotic meal or to finish a light summer lunch.
It’s no surprise to find a chutney
recipe in a
Mridula Baljekar cookbook: she produces her own brand of seasonal
chutneys that
are delightfully flavourful and different. If you can’t find her jars
in your
supermarket then you can at least enjoy her Tomato Achar – roasted
tomato
chutney – made by your own fair hands.
Vegetarian
Cooking
of India is a book that will encourage you into the kitchen. The
recipes are simple to execute but are exciting enough to be appreciated
by
those who already have lots of Indian dishes in their repertoire.
Nothing to
drive a debutant into panic but plenty to inspire.
Asian Cookbook review: Vegetarian
Cooking of India
Author: Mridula Baljekar
Published by: Aquamarine
Price: £17.99
The Just Bento Cookbook
– Everyday Lunches to Go
It’s a bento cookbook. But I know for a fact that not
everyone in Europe will know exactly what bento is. Most people would
have heard the word and will remember that it has something or other to
do with Japanese food. Bento isn’t an ingredient, it does not have to
be Japanese, and it isn’t necessarily even exotic. Bento is a lunch box.
Japan is famed for its refined culture. That artistry extends to food
and we all know about intricately displayed fish for sashimi, and
tightly-rolled and bejewelled sushi, but let’s consider the Japanese
equivalent of a curly sandwich. Yes, you are quite right. It doesn’t
exist.
Railway stations in Japan offer their customers bento boxes. There are
small shops that offer these foods; and mothers and wives send their
loved ones from the house with food that will still be tasty after a
few hours. Bento is pre-packed lunch, but not often of the
cheese-and-pickle and white-sliced variety.
The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go will fire the
imagination of those responsible for making the food for meal breaks.
Kids will be excited by the contents of their plastic boxes and are far
less likely to swap for a packet of jelly beans. The suggestions here
offer vibrant flavours and different textures as well as dietary
balance.
If we lived in Japan we would have a wide selection of bento boxes to
choose from. Two layers and interlocking, single layer with movable
dividers, large bento box with individual lidded containers within. The
rest of the world, apart from India with its unique tiffin boxes, has a
plastic box with a snap-on lid. You will be delighted to know that the
regular sandwich box or even an ex-almost-butter box will do. No need
to go on a shopping spree to Osaka.
For the moment banish from your mind the thought of sarnies. Consider
rice, either fluffy or compressed. How’s about some cool and flavourful
noodles, some fresh veggies with a light dressing and some cooked meat
with a soy sauce lacquer. Sounds enticing doesn’t it?
An inspiring and rich bento meal listed here is that for Ginger Pork
Bento. It’s a hearty meal that would work just as well for supper and
served on a plate as it does for noon from a box. The tangy meat is
paired with braised new potatoes and there are stir-fried peppers and
bean sprouts, cauliflower in mayo, and rice to make this a complete
meal. An adult bento if ever there was one.
The most child-friendly compilation here is perhaps the Pan-fried
Chicken Nugget Bento. It includes a potato salad and a selection of raw
vegetables with a citrus-herb sauce. A healthy meal but fun to eat. An
alternative might be the Pork and Shrimp Balls with Onigiri. These are
balls of compressed rice and much more practical for little lunchers
than negotiating separate grains of rice with chop sticks. No need for
cutlery at all.
My favourite recipe from The Just Bento Cookbook is for the
Sukiyaki-style Beef Donburi Bento. This is another substantial boxful
of meat over rice with a garnish of vegetables. The meat has a sweet
yet savoury flavour that is most agreeable even when cold. This version
uses snow peas (mange-tout) and daikon, but one could substitute other
vegetables which might be more readily available.
The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go is a colourful and
attractive volume that will be a boon to anyone who eats a packed lunch
every day. These recipes are simple but will offer something a bit more
enticing than the usual sandwich and bag of crisps. There is a bento
here for every taste. A book full of practical ideas.
Asian cookbook review: The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go
Author: Makiko Itoh
Published by: Kodansha Europe
Price: £13.99
ISBN 9784770031242
Kebabs and Tikkis
I can
understand why Tarla Dalal is such a very
popular writer in India. She sells more books than any other author of
any genre.
Her recipes are loved for their ease of preparation, they are trusted
because
they work and adored because they present some of the most delicious
food that
will ever emanate from a domestic kitchen. My only surprise is that she
is not
better known outside her homeland.
One might fear that an Indian cookbook written by
an Indian lady in India for an Indian audience might not have recipes
that
would be readily accessible to us in the West. Put those worries to one
side.
Everything is available to us in our local Asian supermarket or via the
internet. If you are not sure what exactly might be that
unfamiliar-sounding ingredient
then make a note of it and trot along to your local store and ask the
owner or
his wife what that exotic spice might be. You will be sure of lots of
advice.
Kebabs and Tikkis concerns itself with those
delicious morsels which are ideal party finger-foods or might even make
a main
meal in greater quantity - perhaps with a side dish. These are
vegetarian
recipes but vibrant of flavour and of sufficiently robust texture to
convince
even meat-eaters of the wisdom of the vegetarian path.
One type of kebab can be grouped with others to
create interesting platters of balanced and contrasting flavours. The
author
thoughtfully offers suggestions for these combinations to assure best
results.
There is a tantalising Nawabi Platter, and for those who are watching
their
diet there is a Low Cal Kebab Platter, as well as several other themed
plates.
Paneer is readily available in most supermarkets
and is used to great advantage in these recipes. Tandoori Paneer Tikki
will be
popular and you won’t need a tandoor to achieve great and tasty
results. Serve
any of the tikki or kebabs with homemade naan. Mrs. Dalal has a novel
solution
to the lack of a tandoor: she suggests using an upturned pressure
cooker. Those
of us who are lucky enough to have a grill in the kitchen can make use
of that
instead.
A simple and delicious tikki is Aloo Methi ki
Tikki. The hint of aromatic fenugreek is the key to this memorable
morsel.
Anything coated in breadcrumbs and fried has my vote ...but it must
taste good
as well as having that tempting texture, and this definitely does.
Rajma
Galouti Kebab is also a superb vegetarian interpretation of a classic
meat-based kebab.
Kebabs and Tikkis is another recipe book that will
entice the Western reader just as much as the Indian home cook. It’s a
volume
showcasing delicious food made from recipes that do work. Tarla Dalal
writes
the most popular cookbooks in India, for a mainly Indian audience.
Those discerning
cookbook buyers know more about this cuisine than I, and they buy this
author’s
books by the million. I am guided by them
Asian cookbook review: Kebabs and Tikkis
Author: Tarla Dalal
Published by: Sanjay and Company
ISBN 978-81-89491-77-2
Thai Street Food
Street food is comfort. We in the UK might be drawn to the
smell of fried onions wafting from a burger cart outside the local DIY
store. Americans will think of potato knishes and hot Italian sausages
with sweet peppers, and Thailand has enough street food to fill a book
the size of the car park at the aforementioned hardware establishment.
This tome is huge and full of equally sizable colour pictures that have
the delectable food leaping from the page at you. Earl Carter, the
photographer, truly deserves to have his name on the cover along with
author David Thompson. This is a book that one could not fail to notice
in the bookshop ...although it’s doubtful that it will fit on any
traditional shelf.
Thai Street Food is a cookbook, a photographic travelogue, and a
glimpse of Thai culture. That culture has much to do with food, as in
any civilized society. The dishes are delicious and vibrant with
flavour. Those who have visited Thailand will attest to the popularity
of the street food with locals and visitors alike.
This vast masterwork is divided into three sections: not by course but
by time of day. Morning, Noon and Night all have their own dishes and
they are indeed tempting. It’s true to say that there are quite a few
ingredients for which you will need a good Asian grocer, but once you
have the appropriate food-stuffs assembled then the cooking element is
easy. Lots of grilling, frying, steaming and a bit of boiling. Nothing
too onerous even for a novice cook.
My preferred breakfast dish from David’s collection is probably
Pineapple and Dried Prawns with Kanom Jin Noodles. The dish is said to
have been invented 150 years or so ago as an offering to the
ever-present monks. These days the noodles are every-day fare. Use
regular Chinese noodles if you cannot get the dry Kanom noodles. It’s
that combination of sweet fruit, punchy chilli and salty prawn that I
find so enticing as a morning wake-up meal. It’s got more going for it
than Marmite on toast ...although that is my breakfast of choice when
in the UK.
That’s my notional brekkie sorted; and my lunch snack has got to be
Crunchy Prawn Cakes. A simple fried preparation which is much enhanced
by the Sweet Chilli and Peanut Sauce for dipping. A sweet and sour
condiment that works well with seafood or indeed anything at all. If I
felt in need of a more substantial repast then Chiang Mai Curried
Noodles and Chicken would be on my menu. This is a dish of complex
flavours and textures. The list of ingredients might seem outfacing but
the execution is fast and the results delicious.
It’s night and the lanterns are lit and it’s time to eat again. Pork
Hocks Braised with Five-spice Powder is my choice. It was originally a
Chinese dish but the Thais have made it their own. It’s a substantial
and aromatic wokful which only needs some rice to complete the meal.
Chilli-vinegar to drizzle to cut through the rich fattiness, and deep
joy is assured.
Thai Street Food has given me hours of pleasurable leafing-through, as
well as awakening memories of amazing meals cooked by friends. It has
also offered the promise of flavourful food in the future and cooked at
these very coordinates. Plenty of choice of light snacks, hearty meals
and even some rare desserts. A formidable book in every regard.
Asian cookbook review: Thai Street Food
Author: David Thompson
Published by: Octopus Ltd.
Price: £40.00
ISBN 978-1-84091-558-7
Kitcho
- Japan’s ultimate dining experience
Kunio Tokuoka is executive chef of Kyoto Kitcho. He was
born in 1960, and is the grandson of Mr. Teiichi Yuki, founder of
Kitcho. He became a chef at twenty and was sent to work at Kitcho
Arashiyama , the flagship restaurant in Kyoto. The restaurant was
awarded three Michelin stars, and Hana Kitcho, another in the group,
was awarded one star in 2009.
The formal Japanese cuisine we are familiar with today can perhaps be
traced to those days after the Meiji era - 1868 to 1912. Another
suggestion is that it was born from the haute cuisine of ritualized
honzen ryori, the traditional tea ceremony of the Momoyama/Edo era of
the 16th to 19th century. Kaiseki is a simplified form of honzen ryori
and has grown into a meal of many courses that flows with the seasons
by using the best of fresh local ingredients. Kitcho is considered by
many inside and outside Japan as that country’s leading classic
restaurant. Kitcho, the book, allows us a peek into the philosophy of
one of the world's most respected practitioners of the stylised art of
Japanese food.
Chef Kunio Tokuoka has a formidable reputation although his approach to
cooking is straightforward. For the first time, the techniques and
history of one of the world's greatest cuisines are presented in
stunning fashion. This is without a doubt the most sumptuous book on
any cuisine I have ever seen. It will become a treasured tome for any
serious chef, a source of endless inspiration for the domestic
enthusiast, and a welcome gift for anyone with a love of Japanese
perfection. It is nothing short of amazing. Leaf through pages of the
best food photography you will ever see. Superb pictures of traditional
serving dishes, bowls and architecture. Yes, there are recipes, but
this is more the ultimate coffee-table book. It will become your most
pawed-over volume for transporting you to an exotic haven of
tranquility and culinary contemplation.
Asian cookbook review: Kitcho – Japan’s ultimate dining experience
Author: Kunio Tokuoka
Published by: Kodansha International
Price: £30.00, US $45.00
ISBN 978-4-7700-3122-8
Momofuku
This is a chunky, classy tome from Absolute Press (I hope
they work the same magic with my book next year!). Its photography is
stunning, urban and imaginative. It’s a cookbook, for sure, but it’s
also a modern food history and a tale of a thriving empire.
This might not be the book that you buy your Auntie Bernadette who was
until recently a nun. I am convinced she would enjoy the food but the
language is uncensored and colourful. This will not be a problem for
the rest of us who will have a wry smile at the journey of culinary-
and self-discovery by the talented David Chang.
The original Momofuku Noodle Bar has blossomed into a fleet of eateries
with distinct characteristics, and all in New York’s East Village.
David is the much-praised chef who has enjoyed the patronage of such
worthies as Ferran Adria, who described him as “a chef of prestigious
talent.” The ever erudite Anthony Bourdain says that he is “the guy all
chefs have got to measure themselves by, these days.” It’s evident that
he will not be waiting with bated breath for more plaudits from
Chrissie Walker of Mostly Asian Food, but he deserves them anyway.
Ramen noodles was the dish, or should I say, they were the dishes, that
gave David his start. You might be familiar with packs of instant dried
ramen noodles, but for preference one should use good quality fresh
Chinese noodles for the recipes here. An important element of this
comfort food is the topping. David offers simple and delicious meat in
the guise of pork shoulder and pork belly. Perhaps the broth is,
though, the key ingredient to a good bowl of noodles - without that you
might just as well buy a pot of instant noodles and pour on boiling
water. David’s homemade noodles might be quick to cook and the dish
constructed in moments, but the stock is a long-hand cooking process,
although it’s worth the effort. Consider making this in a large batch
and freezing it for future use.
A less time-consuming topping for any Asian pasta is David Chang’s
Ginger Spring Onion Sauce. It’s a simple preparation made with low-cost
and readily-available ingredients. This represents all that is good
about Chinese food: delicious ingredients prepared with little fuss.
Quicker and much cheaper than a takeaway.
The Noodle Bar is famed for more than just heaping bowls of food. The
Steamed Pork Buns have been exalted by the likes of such gastronomic
luminaries as Martha Stewart. This moreish confection uses steamed
bread, which can be made in large quantities and frozen. (More fast
meals in future.) You could stuff these light fluffy rolls with your
own choice of filling, but the pork and condiments given here would be
a winning combination.
Then there is the Ssam Bar. Ssam might not be a familiar dish to
Europeans. Ssam means "wrapped," and refers to a Korean dish in which
mostly leafy vegetables are used to wrap a piece of meat. It can be
accompanied by kimchi pickles and topped with a variety of other
tempting and tasty morsels. The traditional condiment is Ssam Sauce
(Ssamjang – recipe in this book) which can be made at home from Korean
chilli pastes which are now more available in Asian stores in Europe.
This is a convivial and fun way to feed a crowd, and will be ideal for
those days when it’s warm enough to use the barbecue to cook the meat
filling.
Momofuku is a striking and energetic volume that follows the rise of
this talented chef. It offers vibrant recipes from all of David’s
restaurant collection, from the Momofuku Noodle Bar through to the
Bakery and Milk Bar, with some stylish European fare from Ko along the
way. This is a book for any lover of New York’s celebrated restaurants,
for those that love good food, and it’s a must as a gift for anyone who
thought that cooking was boring. A unique, memorable tome and great
value for money.
Cookbook review: Momofuku
Author: David Chang and Peter Meehan
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 9781906650353
Paneer Snacks
Hasn’t food in the UK come a long way? We now know what an
aubergine is. Most of us enjoy trying new dishes, and Indian food is
now our most popular cuisine. Yes, paneer is now to be found in almost
every supermarket cheese cabinet. Our culinary horizons have expanded
from the traditional meat and two veg of yesteryear.
Talking of that paneer, we find it on every Indian restaurant menu,
we
have all passed it in the grocery store and lots of us have stopped
to buy. This little book is replete with recipes to make the best of
this versatile food and there are even instructions for making this
pressed cottage cheese in your own home. It’s simple to do and a great
project for kids, who will also enjoy eating the fruits of their
labours.
Tarla Dalal is the author of this little volume. Not a name familiar to
many of my UK and American readers but she is India’s best-selling
author in any field, with over 5 million books sold to date. Mrs Dalal
also has the best-selling food magazine in India, called “Cooking and
More”. A prolific and celebrated writer.
Sure, this is an Indian author writing for an Indian audience in India,
but the culinary universe is such that the non-Asian reader based in
London or New York will be able to find all the ingredients. The
recipes are well-written and the cooking techniques are common to all
these days. Nothing too taxing but the finished dishes have an
authentic Asian bias and are undiluted for the European audience.
Paneer is bland in its unembellished form. There is no disguising that
fact. It is, however, its greatest strength. It is a carrier for spicy
marinades, coatings and stuffings. Its texture is flexible, being used
in cubes or grated. It doesn’t melt when heated so it’s easy to create
dishes that are truly vegetarian but hearty and substantial. This
cheese is unique: it is suitable for strict vegetarians as it uses acid
to separate the curds rather than animal rennet, which is the more
common European approach.
But on to the recipes. These are a fine bunch ranging from vibrant and
spicy to aromatic and delicate. There are soft and silky spreads and
robust grilled cubes. There are some contemporary applications and many
exotic yet simple snacks. Something for everyone no matter what their
taste.
My favourite recipes from this book include the Chinese-inspired Chilli
Paneer with its mahogany-coloured lacquer of soya sauce. A lovely
starter or side dish. The Paneer and Corn Burger will tempt youngsters
and the amount of green chilli can be reduced for the timid, although
there is nothing in this book which should cause alarm to even those
more inclined to eat plain British food.
Grilled Hot-n-Sweet Paneer is a mouth-watering recipe which will be
welcomed by vegetarians when the barbecue season returns. A delight to
look at and those kebabs will vanish as soon as you remove them from
the grill. My vote for the most enticing Paneer recipe goes to Tandoori
Paneer Tikka. No, you don’t have to invest in a tandoor and you won’t
need to ask your local restaurant for the use of their kitchen for half
an hour. You can grill or fry these cubes or wait till the weather
warms and use the barbecue again.
Paneer Snacks by Tarla Dalal is a delight of easy and practical recipes
which will be appreciated by both non-meat-eaters and card-carrying
carnivores alike. There is a simple reason why this lady is so popular:
her recipes work. Her writing has wide appeal and has stood the test of
time. I’ll introduce you to more over the next weeks.
Asian cookbook review: Paneer Snacks
Author: Tarla Dalal
Published by: Sanjay & Co.
Price: Rs. 99/-, UK call 020 8002 9533, USA call 213-634-1406
Traditional Indian
Cooking
I have reviewed Indian cookbooks written by Indians in
India, by Indians living in England and those living in the USA. Ramola
Parbhoo adds another thread to the Indian culinary diaspora. She is of
Indian descent and was born and raised in South
Africa.
I was wondering what to expect. Perhaps an eclectic mix of African
wildebeast curry and zebra kebab? Not at all. Ramola has stayed
faithful to her own culinary heritage but has penned a book of real
traditional Indian recipes that are just a bit different from those
found in UK-targeted cookbooks.
There is much here that will be familiar to the collector of Indian
recipe books. Plenty of breads to tempt with their delicate perfection,
but there is lots more that has rarely been covered. Green and Red
Masala Pastes will fire both the imagination and palette. These are
used in several of the main dishes so would be worthwhile mastering.
There are samosas here but with a variety of different fillings.
Chicken and Mushroom, Peas, and Fish make a change from the regular
spiced potato or meat. Moorkhoo are spiced maize flour noodles. They
are a crisp and moreish snack and not to be missed. Khaman Dokri –
steamed semolina savouries – are light and spongy and unlike any other
Indian snack.
If your morning needs a bit of a kick start then look to Ramola's
recipe for spicy egg-fried bread. It’s the Indian version of French
toast but this one has real flavour from Green Masala, cumin and
coriander. Alternatively try Spicy Scrambled Eggs – Inda na Poora.
Onions and spices perk up this breakfast staple.
There is plenty here to warm the heart of any fish lover. Fish Fillets
in Batter – Machi Pakora – has the edge on more traditional fried fish.
Once again it’s the addition of spices that helps this dish to shine. A
healthy alternative would be the simple Grilled Fish with Garlic and
Chilli or Paprika – Masala Machi. It’s easy to adjust the heat by using
different ratios of paprika and chilli.
The sweet chapter has me glued to the back of the book. I am addicted
to Indian sweetshops but I am equally enthusiastic about the prospect
of making some of my favourite treats at home. Burfi is ubiquitous in
those shops but there is a recipe here that will be worth practising.
Another dessert I am drawn to in restaurants is Rasgoola – milk
dumplings in syrup. They are truly teeth-achingly sweet but difficult
to pass up on. Gool Goolas are similar but golden in colour and fried.
Traditional Indian Cooking should be an addition to your Indian
cookbook collection. Yes, there will be a few duplications of recipes
but there is enough here that is new to make this book worth
considering. It’s coffee table quality but a practical book that you
will use often.
Asian cookbook review: Traditional Indian Cooking
Author: Ramola Parbhoo
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 9781741107845
Cookbook
review: Feast Bazaar
I am not a lover of any particular ethnic cuisine. I have
no national preferences. It’s all about taste. I do, however, find
myself drawn to the food of India (we in Britain have had a love affair
with food of the subcontinent for generations),
North African
food (my years living in France have introduced me to the dishes of the
Maghreb) and Middle Eastern food for its subtle flavours and amazing
food history. Feast Bazaar is a book that I find enticing.
The author, Barry Véra, is a British-born transplant to
Australia. He was trained as a chef in France and has worked for some
of the best in the UK. He now has his own restaurant in Brighton,
Melbourne, as well as a popular TV series called Feast. This book is a
paper representation of Barry’s culinary adventure for the series.
Feast Bazaar considers the food of Morocco, India and Syria. These
disparate countries have many historic links and also culinary
similarities. All of them have a rich culinary heritage and the food is
delicious. The book arrived and I could not wait to start leafing
through the recipes and involve myself in the adventure.
The food of India draws me like a magnet. The recipes here include so
many of the classic standards. This book would be a good introduction
to Indian cooking with its easy-to-follow recipes. Simple staples such
as Masala Chai (spiced Indian tea) give a sample of the warming spices
so typical of dishes of the subcontinent. A delicious drink, and making
it yourself is a lot cheaper than buying a commercial instant mix from
the supermarket.
Bondas are a popular snack in Kerala (and in this home in West London).
It’s a preparation of seasoned mashed potato which is then coated in a
chickpea flour batter and deep fried. Barry proposes these for
breakfast, but make small ones and you’ll find they also work well as a
starter for an Indian meal.
Tchoutchouka Salad is Algerian, but food migrates in North Africa just
as it does in Europe. It’s a salad of roasted peppers with garlic and
spices. Use red, green and yellow peppers for sweetness and colour.
It’s good with grilled fish or chicken or as part of a selection of
salads at the start of a Moroccan meal.
Gazelles Horns are crescent-shaped pastries that are served as a
dessert or a snack with tea or coffee. They are one of the most popular
Moroccan cakes and are found in every North African tea shop... even in
France. They are quite expensive to buy so save some money and make
your own.
The cuisine of Syria isn’t as well known as that of Morocco but it
shares many ingredients. Hummus with Fried Lamb and Sumac is a good
illustration of the similarities. This is a substantial dish which only
needs a green salad and some bread alongside.
Cinnamon Lamb Pizza with Oregano is a typically delicious Syrian snack.
Yes, a snack if you only have a slice, but this is a meal in itself.
This recipe calls for mozzarella although I have seen it without cheese.
Feast Bazaar is a fascinating cookbook and travelogue. It contains many
recipes that are traditional national dishes. They are iconic but
accessible to the home cook. Vibrant ingredients will entice any food
lover to look beyond their habitual culinary horizons.
Cookbook review: Feast Bazaar
Author: Barry Véra
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1741960761
Japanese Home
Cooking with Master Chef Murata
You probably won’t recognise the name of the chef unless
you are reading this in Japan. It’s no surprise, but our ignorance has
everything to do with geography and nothing to do with lack of
celebrity or talent on behalf of Chef Murata. He is a much-Michelined
restaurant owner/chef as well as being a familiar face on Japanese TV
cooking shows.
Yoshihiro Murata was born in Kyoto to the family owning the renowned
Kikoni restaurant. This serves classic Japanese food, and Yoshihiro is
now the third generation to own this restaurant and its two sisters,
one in Kyoto and the other in Tokyo. He has a passion for Japanese
cuisine and has become its international ambassador.
I love Japanese food but I much prefer the more complex cooked dishes
to the ubiquitous sushi and sashimi. These are marvellous foods but I
would tend to eat the best raw fish in a trusted restaurant rather than
making it myself and having to trust the seafood counter at my local
supermarket. Grilled, fried, steamed, simmered dishes are easy to
accomplish at home with ingredients commonly found in any high street.
Japanese Home Cooking with Master Chef Murata offers 60 quick, easy and
healthy recipes for the Western enthusiast. Some will be unfamiliar but
the names of others will ring bells. Perhaps you might even have been
fortunate enough to find a Japanese restaurant serving a couple of
them. You won’t need to buy any specialist equipment and you won’t need
a diploma from the Nagasaki Culinary Institute (is there such a
school?) to undertake the preparation. There is nothing here to cause
terror.
Shabu-Shabu Hot Pot could not be easier. It’s a one-pot meal
constructed, rather than cooked, at the table. It’s a process much like
fondue. Start by heating stock in a pot over a burner. Add vegetables
according to their cooking times. Allow each guest to cook their own
beef. Shabu-shabu is said to be the sound of the aforementioned meat
being agitated in the soup. Remove the vegetables to bowls and enjoy
with either Ponzu Sauce or Peanut Sauce (recipes here). Another stylish
but simple hot dish is Chicken Meatball Hot Pot. It’s finished in
minutes and would make a superb starter or warming winter supper. A
light and healthy meal.
For those who must have their fix of rice and fish, there are recipes
aplenty. Tuna-Mayo Rice Balls make delicious snacks, but for something
no more taxing but a little more adventurous try the Seared Rice Balls
with Bacon Soy Sauce. Well-flavoured filling encased by cooked rice and
then grilled to golden, toasty perfection. One would make a substantial
snack ...but who could stop at only one?
This is an inspiring collection of Japanese recipes for the European
cook. Fresh ingredients used to make flavourful and comforting meals.
The photography by Akira Saito marvellously showcases the finished
dishes but it’s a book to use as well as admire.
Asian Cookbook: Japanese Home Cooking with Master Chef Murata
Author: Yoshihiro Murata
Published by: Kodansha International
Price: £13.99
ISBN 9784770031327
Meena
Pathak Celebrates Indian Cooking
The name sounds familiar. Well, it will do to any of us
who buy the celebrated Patak’s range of Indian sauces and condiments.
They grace every supermarket and are easily recognisable by their
diamond-shaped logo. Considered some of the best commercial sauces
around, I even have Indian friends who periodically use them. That must
surely be a seal of approval.
There truly is a Mr and Mrs Pathak (‘Patak’ is the anglicised spelling
given to the label). They are not an aberration of marketing men in the
same way as Mr. Kipling. The current Pathaks are the son and
daughter-in-law of the founders who sold Indian food from their
Drummond Street shop back in the 1950s. It must have been a struggle as
we Britons thought, at that time, that even pasta was exotic.
Meena Pathak is the creator of many of the pastes and has several books
to her credit, but this one is not a Patak's product handbook. Yes,
there are a few recipes that use those pastes and sauces, and you will
likely have them in your larder anyway, but there are plenty of
traditional and contemporary dishes to make from scratch.
Meena Pathak Celebrates Indian Cooking could perhaps be renamed Meena
Pathak Celebrates real Indian Home Cooking in Britain. A laborious
title but this volume does seem to represent the reality of Indian home
cooking. Irresistible Spiced Beans on Toast is a simple recipe that
reflects what we honestly eat when in a hurry or alone. Common spices,
a chilli, coriander, some onion and grated cheese combine to produce an
economic but delicious comfort food.
The Classics chapter offers a treasury of celebrated dishes from all
over the subcontinent. Goan Fish Curry is becoming a familiar item with
the mushrooming of South Indian restaurants. A dish with complex
flavours but it’s easy to prepare and you’ll be eating in just half an
hour. Much faster than phoning for a take-away.
Pork Sorpotel is new to me. Pork isn’t as common on Indian menus as say
chicken or lamb but here is a quick and warming dish using pork
tenderloin. Vegetarians are not forgotten and one of the most
interesting recipes is for Pan-fried Potato Masala – Masala Pyaz Aloo.
It’s a traditional breakfast from central India where it is served with
hot Indian bread. Add a mug of chai (recipe here) and you’ll be set for
a trip down the Grand Trunk Road.
A favourite dish when eating out is Lentils with Cream and Butter – Dal
Makhni. This is a marvellously textured black lentil confection. It
takes a couple of hours to cook although this time will drastically
reduce if you have a pressure cooker. Yes, it’s rich but you’ll not eat
it every day; don’t use oil but rather push the culinary boat out and
use butter. I love this with chapatti as a meal in itself.
Meena Pathak Celebrates Indian Cooking is a book that will tempt the
Indian food novice into the kitchen, but there is plenty here for those
who are already confident Indian food cooks. The recipes are simple and
the results are rewarding. Meena invites the reader into her own
kitchen with stories of family past and present. A charming and
practical book and great value for money.
Asian cookbook review: Meena Pathak Celebrates Indian Cooking
Author: Meena Pathak
Published by: New Holland
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-832-5
Traditional and Modern
Healthy Chinese Soups and Drinks
Well, it’s a lengthy title but it sums up the contents of
this book. It’s about health-giving liquids, or at least what Chinese
tradition would have you believe are healthy drinks. One has to give
some credence to a philosophy that has lasted thousands of years. The
Chinese have access to modern medicine but the practice of eating foods
as restoratives or cures still continues.
The author, Susan Chan, was born in Burma of mixed Asian heritage. She
draws on the culinary tradition of her homeland, of China and of the
West. Many of the soups will be familiar to Chinese restaurant goers
and we have enjoyed these, giving no thought to the benefits these
delicious broths might be bestowing. Other soups and drinks are a
little more obscure but will be welcomed by those who want to take a
more homeopathic route to better health.
Each soup has its ingredients and method, a comment on nutritional
value and, most interestingly, an overview of traditional beliefs which
gives information on heating or cooling properties. For example
Shanghai-Style Hot and Sour Soup contains vitamins A and C and
potassium. It is considered a “neutral” soup. This will soothe the
internal system, boost energy levels and maintain general wellness.
Black Bean with Dried Mandarin Peel Soup has very few ingredients and
is simple to prepare. It’s an ideal winter warmer having ginger in the
base broth. It is also considered “warming” with regard to traditional
medicine. This soup will be suitable for those with colds, flu, or cold
extremities. Another soup offering similar properties would be the
convivial Steam Boat. This is like a Mongolian Hot Pot or a fondue. A
chicken stock is heated and each guest cooks his or her choice of a
selection of ingredients. Small wire strainers are provided for each
guest to fill with meat and vegetables. When cooked the food is
transferred to individual bowls and eaten with chilli sauce or oyster
sauce. The remaining and now fortified soup is consumed at the end of
the meal. Much lighter than melted cheese.
If you are after a somewhat more instant “warming” curative then Ginger
Tea could be for you. It takes only 20 minutes to prepare. It is said
to be good for upset stomachs, and even in the West ginger is believed
to ward off the symptoms of travel sickness. Ginger Tea contains fibre,
vitamins and minerals.
Traditional and Modern Healthy Chinese Soups and Drinks will be a
welcome addition to the cookbook collection of those wanting some
traditional recipes, but also of those who want to follow a drug-free
life. This book gives a unique perspective.
Asian cookbook: Traditional and Modern Healthy Chinese Soups and Drinks
Author: Susan Chan
Published by: New Holland
Price: AUS$29.95, US$19.95, £12.99
ISBN 9781742570365
500 Asian Dishes
I am an unashamed supporter of these chunky volumes from
Apple Press. This time it’s the talented and prolific Ghillie Basan who
has penned a book which encompasses much of the culinary wealth of
China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, Korea,
Indonesia and the Philippines.
The chapters here are divided by type of dish rather than country. They
start with sauces and dips and progress through meats and fish to
desserts and drinks. Marvellous recipes with several alternatives for
each. An ingenious way of presenting 500 recipes in a single book
that’s smaller than a Honda. There is a culinary overview of each
country to set the scene as well as a glossary of less familiar
ingredients.
The Sauces and Dips chapter presents the easiest recipes, although it’s
the nature of food in this region to be simple and quick to prepare.
Vietnamese Dipping Sauce is a condiment that you’ll use often. It has
the tapestry of flavours that is typical of Asian foods: pungency from
garlic, heat from chillies, sweetness from palm sugar, sharpness from
lime juice and saltiness from the distinctive fish sauce. The author
offers six alternatives including one with the addition of fresh ginger.
Singapore Laksa is a celebrated dish of vegetables, chicken and
seafood. The broth is the key to the success here as with any soup. The
ingredient list is long but the method of preparation should hold no
terrors for even a novice cook. It can be a main meal or a starter.
Ghillie has a vegetarian version as well, although I prefer the more
interesting original.
If you want a traditional recipe with few ingredients then the
ever-popular Salt and Pepper Squid is worth trying. Yes, it truly is as
simple as it sounds. Use freshly ground black pepper for full effect.
Once again you have the choice of five similar recipes including one
which replaces the squid with prawns.
Korean cuisine is little known in the UK and other European countries.
The USA has long had Korean restaurants but they are only just becoming
popular here. The recipe for Korean Stir-fried Potatoes shows the style
of Korean food. It’s spicy with a salty note from soy sauce. A gentle
introduction to the food of this exotic but mostly overlooked peninsula.
I often bemoan the lack of Asian desserts but this book offers some
delicious and traditional delights. Indonesian Sweet Black Sticky Rice
is flavoured with coconut milk. If you can’t get pandanus leaves (a
common Malaysian ingredient) then look for the extract, available from
Asian supermarkets. Malaysian Sago Pudding with Palm Sugar is a
favourite. Don’t substitute regular sugar for the palm sugar as it is
that which gives the dessert its distinctive toffee flavour. This is a
world away from the sago that was inflicted on many of us at school
dinners.
500 Asian Dishes has traditional recipes that are accessible to the
European home cook. Many of them are little-known in Europe but all of
them are worth tasting. Nothing too taxing for those unfamiliar with
Asian food but plenty of recipes to hold the interest of the
aficionado.
Asian cookbook review: 500 Asian Dishes
Author: Ghillie Basan
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-369-7
Asian cookbook review:
India Food and Cooking - paperback
Pat Chapman is famous among Anglo curry enthusiasts as a
passionate
Indian food lover and the man who started the Curry Club over 20 years
ago. Its members now number 15000 so there is evidently support for
Pat’s take on food of the subcontinent.
This is a hefty paperback volume with the first 60-odd pages devoted to
the
history of India and the evolution of its food, tools and equipment,
and basic preparation. He goes into great detail about the spices
before we reach the recipes. His research is obviously thorough and
adds a lot to the overall quality of the book.
There are a great many “Modern Chef’s Recipes”, with Spiced Stuffed
Peppers being the offering from London chef Pital Gopal. Creamy Brown
Lentils is a dish based on a recipe from London restaurateur Camilia
Panjabi. Beef Tomatoes stuffed with gorgonzola is another chef recipe
which is obviously a bit of a fusion dish.
Most of the recipes are said to be authentic and Pat give the region
from where these originate. They are a delicious bunch and cover
everything from starters through meats and vegetables to drinks. There
is even an interesting item about the famous Bombay Duck, which I
haven’t seen for years. It’s not a duck at all but rather an eel-shaped
fish that is filleted and dried and used as a condiment.
My favourite recipe would have to be the Raan, Aromatic Roast Lamb.
This is succulent leg of lamb, and the meat just falls from the bone.
It’s savoury and delicious and easy to make. You can marinate the lamb
for up to 60 hours (be warned, your fridge will smell of spice for all
those 60 hours) and then just roast for 3 hours. It’s an ideal Sunday
meal for a crowd.
Kulfi, Indian ice cream, makes a welcome end to any spicy meal and you
don’t need to invest in an ice cream maker. Pat lists several varieties
all using the basic recipe but with the additions of either chocolate,
pistachio, mango or almonds. Yum!
The Chutney and Pickle chapter has Pat’s wife’s Sweet and Hot Tomato
Chutney. It’s a clear chutney that looks attractive and bright. The
traditional Lime Pickle would be the one for me and you can also use
the same recipe to create a lemon pickle.
India Food and Cooking would be a good choice for anyone wanting to
know a lot more about Indian food and history. There is plenty of
reading, marvellous pictures and recipes to make your mouth water.
India Food and Cooking-Paperback
Author: Pat Chapman
Published by: New Holland
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-565-2
Cookbook review: The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook
Nice name for a cookbook. It has an almost old-fashioned
ring to it. Hints of The Orient Express, perhaps the East India
Company, P & O steamers and Edwardian ladies with parasols. All
romantic notions but, in truth, this sumptuous volume is a companion of
the celebrated E & O.
OK, so now we are on to another flight of fancy. What is E & O? Is
it something medically akin to A & E? E,N & T?
No, it’s an
acronym for Eastern and Oriental, although this fine London restaurant
is better known as E & O. The name is well-chosen as it’s a
pan-Asian restaurant with a soupçon of fusion.
There are a good many pan-Asian eateries around. They vary in quality
from the sublime to the ridiculous. Some are basic Chinese restaurants
which offer Thai noodles and a selection of commercially produced
sushi. Others present a concoction of poorly executed versions of Asian
classics. E & O was one of the first pan-Asian restaurants and it
is reputed to be one of the best.
Will Ricker isn’t a chef. He is the restaurateur behind not only
E&O but Cicada, Great Eastern Dining Room, Eight Over Eight and XO,
all of which I hope to review in the near future. He has won numerous
awards for his restaurants and food, so a cookbook was bound to be on
the cards.
The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook is a striking volume with photographs
by William Meppam. The black pages with white text give a contemporary
and stylish feel although it remains a thoroughly practical cookbook.
It’s designed with the home cook in mind. The dishes are stunning but
the recipes will hold no terrors.
Pan-Asian, in this context, means China, Japan and Thailand. They are
three individual cuisines which have qualities that can be easily
combined to great effect. One might choose a Chinese soup along with
some Japanese tempura followed by a Thai curry. You’ll have the freedom
and indeed the inspiration to find the selection that will be most
tempting for your friends and family.
There are plenty of classics here. Chicken Jungle Curry, Beef Bulgogi
(a nod to Korea with this one), and Pad Thai will all be familiar. But
how about Lobster and Prawn Sweet Ginger Noodles for a special meal,
and you might consider a Jasmine Cosmopolitan to finish. There are
every-day dishes as well as dinner-party fare within these classy pages.
My favourites from The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook include Sole
Tempura with its unique presentation, Chilli Tofu for those days when I
want something quick, light and noble, and Crispy Pork Belly for the
times when I crave comfort food with attitude. It’s a Dim Sum
suggestion but you’ll eat so much it’ll be a meal.
The desserts are appealing. Asian restaurants are not generally famed
for their sweets, and often resort to the standard banana fritters and
even Chocolate Fondant Cake. Will, however, has White Chocolate and
Berry Dumplings, and Mini Cinnamon Doughnuts served with a Passionfruit
Syrup. My pick of puds must be the Ginger Cheesecake with Caramel
Bananas. It’s a melange of exotic flavours in a Western guise.
The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook is a culinary page-turner. It offers
a feast for the eyes as well as a wealth of accessible dishes that are
simple to prepare, but which have that often elusive “wow” factor. It’s
gift quality so buy two copies. It’s unlikely you’ll want to let this
one out of your grasp.
Asian cookbook review: The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook
Author: Will Ricker
Published by: Hardie Grant Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-74066-614-5
Travels with Thai
Food – A journey with Spirit House
It all sounds rather mystical. A journey with Spirit House
conjures visions of idyllic retreats for the world-weary, guiding a
path to something enlightening and memorable. Well, that’s probably a
fair estimation of what this particular Spirit House is all about, but
it’s the spirit of Thai food which is venerated here, and the House in
question is a restaurant in Queensland,
Australia.
This sumptuous tome is penned by both the owner, Helen Brierty, and the
chef, Annette Fear. Thai cookbook collectors might know them as the
authors of Spirit House, which is a bestseller. This is another
collection of contemporary dishes from one of the world’s most
fascinating dining destinations.
Helen and Annette don’t expect you to be expert Thai cooks. They lead
you through the ingredients which are now widely available either in
your regular supermarket, in an Asian grocers or by mail order if you
live in a lighthouse off Shetland. Thai food is becoming more popular
in Europe with the advent of long-haul travel. We have been able to see
for ourselves the reasons why Australians have held this cuisine in
such high esteem.
Travels with Thai Food offers recipes that are simple and quick to
prepare. Heavenly Beef has got to be one of the most delicious dishes
and ideal for a novice cook. Only five ingredients and on the plate in
about 7 minutes. Rice can be cooking at the same time as the beef is
being prepared so it’s going to be much faster than a take-away and
only a little slower than toast.
Royal Son-in-Law Eggs are a must-try. It’s seldom one finds a recipe
for deep-fried boiled eggs. These are garnished with a sauce of
well-seasoned minced chicken. The recipe suggests using two medium red
chillies but the timid might add a little less for the first attempt.
Vegetarians are not forgotten here. Fragrant Red Curry of Tofu with
Caramelised Sweet Potato, Cashews and Ginger is a recipe for the
slightly more confident cook as the ingredient list seems lengthy. It’s
a three-part dish so consider each element as a stand-alone recipe and
the job will not seem so daunting. The curry paste just requires mixing
all ingredients together, and the sweet potatoes just need baking. The
final curry cooking isn’t a taxing task and the results will make your
initial worry a thing of the past.
Sorbet is a great way to end a spicy meal or equally a Western dinner.
It is simple to make if you have an ice cream machine, but try these
recipes even if you only have a freezer and a plastic tub. Make the
liquid base and freeze, but scrape with a fork periodically so that
your sorbet does not set into a brick. The texture will be more
granular than the classic sorbet but the flavour will be just as
delightful. Banana and Passionfruit Sorbet uses passionfruit juice
which is much less work than using the fresh fruit. Lychee and Ginger
Sorbet is exotic and memorable and would be a unique addition to an
Eastern menu.
Travels with Thai Food – A journey with Spirit House is a visually
striking book. It offers accessible recipes which tempt this Londoner
to buy a ticket to Queensland with a stop-over in Bangkok on the way.
Asian cookbook review: Travels with Thai Food – A journey with Spirit
House
Authors: Helen Brierty and Annette Fear
Published by: New Holland
Price: US$24.95, AUS/CAN$35.00, GB£14.99
ISBN 9781741105513
Cookbook
review: Koto – A culinary journey through Vietnam
So, what does Koto mean? Is it Vietnamese for Brussels
sprouts? No, it stands for Know One, to Teach One. This is a
grass-roots charity that sets out to help street kids in Hanoi. It
provides them with vocational training in cooking and hospitality.
These children will hopefully find employment as chefs and waiters in
the now-blossoming tourist industry. The royalties from this book will
go to the Koto organisation.
OK, so you have contributed to a noble cause but then you are stuck
with the book. Is it going to be left on the coffee table as a
conversation piece? Will it replace the missing foot of your grannie’s
old sideboard or will it be a cookbook that will hold your attention?
You, dear reader, will be pleased to know that it’s the latter.
There are relatively few cookbooks about the food of Vietnam. The
country has had many problems over many decades including a war that
you might have heard about. Promotion of the national cuisine has been
towards the bottom of the agenda. These days however, there are many
visitors to the country and there is more interest in the culture, art
and cooking.
Koto is an attractive cookbook but it is also a charming introduction
to Vietnam. The photographs by Michael Fountoulakis show tempting food,
and faces that in themselves tell stories. There are 80 or so recipes
that will still further add to your armchair adventure.
The authors, Tracey Lister and Andreas Pohl, take us on a journey
through the regions of Vietnam. They introduce us to the people, we
glimpse their lives and we enjoy the food. The dishes are traditional
and they have endured for a reason: they are delicious. The Spring
Rolls of Hue are light and refreshing with the flavour of aromatic
herbs. Braised Oxtail with Five Spice is rich and warming for these
cold winter days. The ingredients are all easily found in every
supermarket and the cooking techniques are simple.
My favourite recipe is perhaps Squid filled with Pork and Noodles. This
is not a spicy dish but rather relies on the freshness of the meat,
seafood and herbs. Serve with the classic dipping sauce (recipe in this
book) for a taste of authentic but accessible food from this
little-known food haven.
Koto is a book for the would-be traveller, the recently-returned
trekker and those who have a passion for good food. It’s a marvellous
invitation to visit this new long-haul destination.
Cookbook review: Koto - A culinary journey through Vietnam
Authors: Tracey Lister and Andreas Pohl
Published by: Hardie Grant Books
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-74066-663-3
Asian cookbook review: Indian
Superfood
Gurpareet Bains shot to fame with international press
coverage in September of 2009 when he unveiled 'The World's Healthiest
Meal’. Now he has turned his attention to the ingredients that could
promote good health.
Indian Superfood is based on the unique but time-honoured Indian
concept of using foods to maintain good health. It considers the
medicinal properties of spices and even the everyday foods we eat, or
should eat.
The book focuses on these superfoods and superspices to present dishes
that are original, comforting, familiar and exotic. There are recipes
for your favourite Indian meals, for childhood staples, and for some
truly delightful desserts. No, this isn’t a diet book in the
conventional sense. It’s more a healthy lifestyle cookbook with none of
the over-worthy, off-putting self-sacrifice of many. There is no hint
of “Eat this, it’s good for you” but more, “It’s delicious and it just
happens to be good for you.”
This attractive book uses, amongst other things, mushrooms that are
prized for their anti-viral and anti-cancer properties, and goji
berries for enhancing the immune system function. Seems also that many
spices have benefits and they are probably already filling your pantry
shelves, or at least they will be if you have ever made Indian food at
home.
I have a passion for cardamom and it’s good to know that this
particular addiction is one to encourage. It’s antibacterial,
antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and is beneficial for
everything from gums to lungs. Cardamom is also the world’s third most
expensive spice but it’s worth the price, I’d say. Less costly spices
are equally healthful, like your regular garlic which has many of the
properties of cardamom with the addition of the possibility that it
could combat Alzheimer’s.
It’s unlikely that you’ll want to chomp down on raw spices so you’ll
need to avail yourself of those aforementioned Indian Superfoods
recipes. The properties of the spices are listed for each dish so you
can choose the foods which will have the most positive impact on your
health. They are not complicated recipes and most of them have only a
short list of ingredients.
We British have long had a love affair with the humble baked bean. We
have enjoyed them on toast for breakfast. With egg and chips for lunch.
Sausage and mash with baked beans is a love triangle made in heaven,
and what could be better than eating them straight from the can when
it’s late and you are alone. Gurpareet offers us an alternative to the
unadulterated bean. He adds a few spices which transform them into
something exotic but comforting. Cumin seeds, mustard seeds and curry
powder will enhance the dish with antibacterial, antifungal and
anti-inflammatory qualities. A lovely start to a cold winter morning.
There is a recipe here which I can almost guarantee will be made by the
purchasers of this volume. Best-ever Chicken Tikka Masala might even be
the reason that many will have sought out the book in the first place.
OK, Chicken Tikka Masala is honestly a British invention but let’s not
be food snobs. It’s a flavourful yet mild dish and it’s popular. Now we
find that it’s actively good for us, or at least it would be if we use
this particular recipe to make it at home.
Chocolate has been elevated to the status of a health food, so these
days high-end dark chocolate is a no-guilt pleasure. Indian Devils
Chocolate Pot combines luscious bitter chocolate with coffee, eggs,
milk and spices to create a decadent and rich dessert. It might not be
an everyday indulgence but it’s an impressive end to a smart dinner.
Indian Superfoods will appeal to Asian readers as well as Europeans who
love Indian food. It’s not a classic recipe book but it has tasty food,
easily and quickly prepared but without the “fast food” connotations.
This is sensible eating. I am off to start supper: Red Lentil Kedgeree
with eggs followed by some Carrot Lamingtons. A fusion meal from
Anglo-India to Sydney Harbour, but the trip will do me good.
Cookbook review: Indian Superfoods
Author: Gurpareet Bains
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 9781906650292
Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex
The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both
talent and passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon displayed
his flair for food. (He gets that from his mum who is an award-winning
cookbook author.) His motto has always been “easy yet delicious,
stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on television
where he represents the new generation of cooks. His Veggie Haven has
been nominated by the Paris Book Fair and Gourmand as one of 2009’s
Best Cookbooks of the Year. Not too shabby!
It’s called Easy Japanese Cooking but that might give the impression
that it concerns traditional Japanese fare. I prefer to think of it as
Easy Contemporary Japanese Cooking. The Japanese, along with the rest
of the world, are becoming more global in their food horizons and
Kentaro has no prejudice when it comes to introducing Western
ingredients into his larder. Appetizer Rex is a volume that shows the
acceptable face of fusion cuisine, and does it in a fun way.
Just think of appetizers or hors d’oeuvres and we conjure thoughts of
convivial gatherings. These little dishes are not taxing to prepare but
choose the right ones to match your guests, along with their drinks,
and success is assured. There are no worries about preparing a balanced
meal: appetizers are not meals in themselves, they are little
‘amuse-gueules’ as the French would poetically describe them.
Kentaro offers us his usual mix of lively ingredients combined with
thoughtful but simple presentation. There are a few recipes that will
be somewhat familiar to Western readers – for example, Nachos, Tomato
Salsa, and Tomato and Olive Bruschetta are well loved standards, but my
advice would be to consider the lesser-known dishes that will be not
only delicious but great conversation pieces.
Wasabi Butter Beef will be a winner with the carnivores. A simple dish
to prepare but sliced beef always contrives to look luxurious. Ribs
with Green Onions will also help to slake manly appetites. Sunny-side
Up Beef is a good way of using up leftover Sunday roast. A striking
presentation of sauced meat and an egg yoke.
Fried Rice Balls would be an exotic alternative to crisps (chips).
Serve them with some good flavourful Japanese condiments for a
healthier but substantial snack. Two-Way Fritters are ideal for those
who must have a fried-food fix. They are an agreeable combination of
corn, ham and shrimp. They are said to stay crisp even when cooled so a
good choice for a drinks party.
My absolute favourite dish will have my dear reader reeling in horror.
Whelks! WHELKS? Yes, and you should try them. Kentaro has a Whelk
Sauté which has few ingredients, is simple to make and economic
as well. I would perhaps counsel that you slice the shellfish rather
than leaving them whole. The whelks found off British coasts are large
and, I must admit, unattractive. Don’t tell your guests what they are
eating and they will love them.
Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex is another winner from Kentaro
Kobayashi. He continues to offer dishes that are simple but impressive.
Always something unique and stunning. Don’t stop now, Kentaro, I await
the next volume.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc. New York
Price: $14.95 US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-63-7
Complete Indian Cooking - Mridula Baljekar
No complaints from this cookbook reviewer. This is just
the kind of book that I seek out and enjoy. Practical, that’s the word.
Colourful
and
informative
and
presenting
easy-to-follow
recipes.
Southwater
(an
imprint
of
Anness
Publishing)
offers
the
style
of
books
that
will
be
used
and enjoyed and that should surely be the very reason
for buying the volume in the first place.
Mridula Baljekar has long been respected by the UK-based Asian food
industry. She has penned numerous cookbooks, received awards and
plaudits and continues as a successful author, and has added her own
range of pickles to her span of achievements. Mridula is joined by
three others: Rafi Fernandez is a prolific author of Indian cookbooks.
Shehzad Husain is the Marks and Spencer consultant for Indian foods.
She has several Indian cookbooks to her credit as well as contributions
to food-related magazines. Manisha Kamani is a freelance home economist
and has written regularly for Family Circle, and worked as a food
demonstrator.
Complete Indian Cooking is a chunky stunner. It presents 325 recipes
and over 1800 pictures, the majority of which are step-by-step guides.
I am an experienced home cook but even I still find this format to be
comforting. A novice to kitchen pursuits will find those photographs a
great help. Yes, the recipes are for the most part simple, but a
picture paints a thousand words.
Mughlai-style Chicken is a rich royal dish laced with cream, almonds
and saffron, ingredients often found in Nizani Mogul cuisine. Another
star chicken dish finds the bird in an orange and black pepper sauce
which is thick and creamy. The pepper gives aromatic heat.
Okra is an under-rated vegetable. It’s used extensively in India but
it’s a relative newcomer to the European greengrocers’ shelves. Okra in
Yogurt is mild and can be used as a side dish or as a main meal for
vegetarians. Serve with a dhal and either rice or Indian bread.
South Indian food is gaining popularity in London. Many of us have
travelled to Goa for long-haul breaks and there are more restaurants
specialising in the dishes of Kerala. This book includes Goan Fish
Cakes, which can be made from haddock but also the cheaper coley or
whiting. These make an attractive and flavourful starter served with
lemon wedges and your favourite chilli sauce.
Complete Indian Cooking is a book for those who want to learn and to
cook. It’s a lovely book to look at, but it would be a shame if it
remained decorating your bookshelves. Buy it and use it. Amazing value
for money.
There are myriad Indian cookbooks available to the
European reader. Most of them are good, some of them are magnificent
but all of them have something to offer. The problem is that so many of
them present much the same thing. Curry-house favourites, standard
restaurant items and homemade versions of your regular takeaway. This
book, however, entices the reader with much more varied fare.
Mridula Baljekar is a food consultant, restaurant consultant, author,
and she has been away from the UK food TV screens for too long. She had her own cooking series on
Carlton a few years ago and many of us wonder why she is not now
presenting Indian cooking programmes on the UK food network.
Regional Cooking of India is the latest in a line of books from Ms
Baljekar. It’s a large-format tome with a wealth of pictures of
finished dishes, but also step-by-step shots which will be a comfort to
the less-confident home chef. 350 photographs make this either a coffee
table book to cook from or a cookbook to grace the aforementioned
furniture.
Many of us are avid collectors of cookbooks but there is always that
duplication of recipes. This book presents so much that is new. Dishes
that I have not come across in other recipe books and in fact have not
eaten in restaurants. Having said that, there is nothing here to incite
horror at the hob in a European kitchen. Mridula writes with the home
cook in mind. She does not expect you to own a tandoor (although I have
heard you can find plans on the internet for such things using big
terracotta flower pots) and she even suggests an alternative for the
traditional idli maker: use your grandmother’s egg-poacher!
There are 80 recipes here to tempt you to the kitchen and indeed to
India. Each region is considered and Mridula guides you through the
culinary culture of these diverse areas. Six chapters cover north,
south, east and west, with north-east and central India added for good
measure. It’s a huge country with varied climate and geography. Coastal
regions with their array of seafood dishes, and mountains with lamb.
Marvellous vegetables everywhere, and sweets that are a bit more
impressive than those found in UK restaurants.
Prawn Rissoles are from the west, and these would make a delicious main
course, or smaller versions could be made to go with drinks. Several
regions offer dishes that would work in this fashion - stuffed
savouries with contrasting tastes and textures: Meat-Filled Potato
Cakes from Eastern India, and Stuffed Meat Patties from South India are
both flexible recipes. Baby Corn Fritters could also enhance a
canapé tray. My Indian friends have given the smartest of drinks
parties with finger foods like these, which put cheese straws and
twiglets to shame - vibrant flavours from small dishes which are both
tempting and moreish.
If you want a dish to impress then you can’t do better than using
Mridula's recipe for Nawabi Raan, royal-style marinated leg of lamb.
It’s not a difficult dish for even a novice to undertake. The aroma of
spices and roasting meat will fill your home. I know that estate agents
always advise sellers to brew coffee or make bread when expecting
potential house-buyers, but I think this lamb could get the deal done
quicker.
There are many other dishes here deserving of a mention, including
Spicy Stuffed Bananas from West India, which are new to me. A simple
dish and economic, a great departure for vegetarians who will
appreciate the stylish presentation of dark banana skins and savoury
filling. A good standby, using lots of store-cupboard ingredients.
Spicy Scrambled Eggs make a much more exciting breakfast than
cornflakes – attractive and simple to prepare even with only one eye
open.
Mridula Baljekar is a many-faceted consummate professional. One would
expect a fascinating book full of inspiring and different recipes and
that’s exactly what this is. Even those of us who have shelves
liberally garnished with Indian cookbooks will want to find a space for
Regional Cooking of India. It’s a joy.
Asian cookbook review: Regional cooking of India
Author: Mridula Baljekar
Published by: Aquamarine
Price: £19.99
ISBN-13: 978-1-903141-61-6
The Cinnamon
Club Seafood Cookbook
Britain is an island. So it goes without saying that we
are surrounded by water and have had a close relationship with the sea.
Surprising, therefore, that are still so many of us who are not fish
eaters. Home cooks have not had a
good reputation for preparing tasty fish, and we so often resort to the
chippy for some battered haddock. Well, they tell us that fish is good
for us, don’t they. So shall I make that two haddock and large chips,
please? No, that’s not the idea!
We should be eating more fish, it’s true. We have an amazing choice of
seafood of all kinds, both domestic and imported, but what to do with
it? Chef Vivek Singh has penned this book with the home cook in mind.
The recipes are accessible and will show you exactly what to do with
the fishmonger’s wares, and to great effect.
Not only is The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook a practical recipe book
but it’s a visual stunner. Photographer Jean Cazals has a reputation
for some of the best food photography around. This is a good
representation of his excellent work. Unfussy shots to encourage you
into the kitchen.
The Cinnamon Club is celebrated for its fine Indian and fusion food.
Vivek offers culinary marvels of both taste and presentation, but he
has a kitchen full of well-trained and passionate staff, doesn’t he?
His books, however, enable us civilians to cook food that is both
impressive and well within the grasp of the enthusiastic home cook. A
glance at the lists of ingredients might be off-putting to the
faint-hearted but on closer inspection you’ll find that it’s mostly
spices and you’ll doubtless have them lurking at the back of your
larder anyway. Time to move them to the front and buy some fish.
Whitebait was once a common item on menus and even for Saturday
teatime. These little fish are eaten whole so they are perhaps a good
starting point for those who are unsure about piscatorial preparation.
Vivek offers Whitebait in Garlic and Pepper Batter. That batter is a
cut above that which houses your chip-shop haddock. This recipe is
simple: Mix batter ingredients together. Add fish. Leave for ten
minutes. Fry for two minutes. Eat. I defy you to make this just once.
Use sprats if you can’t get whitebait. Another recipe for delicious
little morsels is that for South Indian Shrimp Pickle. Another simple
recipe that produces stylish nibbles for your next cocktail party. A
must-try.
A recipe which I shall make often and pass off as my own is for Red
Snapper with Ginger-Jaggery Chutney. Another easy dish in two parts.
The chutney has Indian cane sugar as one of its main ingredients. It’s
easy to find these days in any Asian supermarket but if you live in a
lighthouse you could use a dark brown sugar.
The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook offers more than 130 recipes for
fish and seafood in all its guises, as well as suitable accompaniments.
It’s a book to inspire, encourage and tempt. Vivek Singh does not
expect you to be a budding chef. His recipes are well-written and easy
to follow. He steers you to dishes that will delight and impress and
you won’t need a catering qualification to achieve good results. Jean’s
pictures make this a gift-quality book and I look forward to more from
Vivek Singh and the Cinnamon Club team.
The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £15.00
ISBN 1-9045734-1-X
Rasoi: New Indian
Kitchen
This book feels sumptuous, contemporary and a bit
different. It has the air of Eastern opulence but tastefully understated.
It’s unmistakably Indian and offers its wares with quiet confidence to
an audience which can’t fail to be impressed and intrigued.
Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen has been penned by the chef-owner of the
Rasoi restaurant, Vineet Bhatia. He has achieved much critical acclaim
for his sterling work in several Indian restaurants in London. He is
one of that rare breed of chefs of any culinary persuasion who has been
praised by both the UK’s two most celebrated restaurant critics, Fay
Maschler and A. A. Gill. I have not yet had the privilege of visiting
Rasoi but if the book is a faithful representation then it’s worth
exploring.
Vineet suggests that his book may not be for the novice. Well, at first
glance that might seem so but even the most complicated and
many-faceted dishes can be often broken down into their constituent
parts and either made in advance or used as stand-alone dishes.
Raan Mussallam is in fact a simple dish for the most delicious roast
lamb you will ever eat. The meat is cooked in a covered roasting tin to
melting perfection. It cooks for 3 hours so it’s an ideal alternative
to the regular Sunday roast. It would work well with traditional roast
potatoes although I prefer my raan with rice or naan.
Black Pepper Chicken Masala is a dish that Vineet remembers from his
childhood. He has adapted it and serves his with Black Lentil and
Cashew Nut Rice, but the less-confident home cook could start by
practising the chicken dish and just serving it with plain steamed
rice. Add the black lentil rice when you’re more at ease with the
cuisine.
We all have those occasions when we want to impress the in-laws or we
want to push the boat out. No better way of doing that than with
seafood. Crab Curry with Lime and Coriander, Peanut and Curry Leaf Rice
is a dish with impact but you won’t need to be a skilled chef to
undertake it. Vineet has done the clever work for you. He has chosen
the ingredients to give savour and richness. One of the easiest dishes
to execute, but memorable.
Desserts are often a little thin on the ground in Indian restaurants. I
have had fine ones in Indian homes, but these don’t seem to have
migrated to commercial establishments. Chef Bhatia has broken that
mould and devised some stunning desserts based on traditional recipes
but with his usual flourish. Try Roasted Tandoori Pineapple Infused
with Saffron and Fennel, Pineapple and Saffron Halwa, Warm Coconut Milk
Shooter. That all sounds like quite a complicated plateful, but you can
just make the halwa and it will be delicious at the end of the meal
with some tea. The Tandoori Pineapple would make an exotic addition to
your next barbecue.
Whilst it’s true to say that Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen is a
coffee-table book, that statement would be diminishing its true merit
as a cookbook. There is so much here that has the Must Try element.
It’s a volume full of ideas and inspiration. A noble addition to any
serious cookbook collection. A stunner.
Cookbook review: Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen
Author: Vineet Bhatia
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £30.00
ISBN 13:9781906650193
50 Great Curries of
India
Yes, India is a big country with many regions, each with
its own culinary classics, so I guess the author, Camellia
Panjabi, has had her work cut out to choose just 50 of them. The ones
she has selected, however, represent the best, the most celebrated, and
those which can be most easily replicated in a non-Indian home.
The accompanying DVD introduces us to the author. She might not be a
household name but she is well known in the UK and Indian food
industries. She is a director of Masala World, a UK Indian restaurant
company. Doesn’t ring bells? Well, perhaps you have heard of Veeraswamy
in Piccadilly? It’s the oldest and most iconic of Indian restaurants in
London. Chutney Mary and Amaya are also from the Masala World stable,
offering high-end Indian food to the increasingly discerning British
public.
Ms. Panjabi has a quiet and reassuring stage presence. Her
conversational style puts the novice cook at their ease. Any cookbook
author who suggests that it’s perfectly acceptable to change the recipe
to suit your personal taste is OK in my book. This is a lady who might
be a restaurant magnate but she still lives in the real world. Even in
India one’s mum’s Chicken Dopiaza will taste subtly different from her
neighbour’s. Camellia is aware that some ingredients might be a bit
thin on the ground so if you live in a lighthouse miles from
civilisation then you can, for instance, use powdered coconut milk
instead of the real thing. There really is nothing to stop you having a
go.
This is an amazingly attractive book. The pages are edged with
traditional fabric motifs which, along with the striking photography,
help to give this volume a sumptuous air. A paperback it might be, but
it’s gift quality nevertheless. The author’s notes for each recipe help
to put the dishes into geographic or cultural context. 50 Great Curries
of India will not only teach you how to make, well, 50 delicious
curries, but it will also take you on a culinary voyage.
50 Great Curries of India offers recipes for curries (that is to say,
dishes with sauces) as well as breads, vegetables, lentils etc. And a
nice selection of desserts, and a meal planner to give a bit of
confidence if you want to show off to the in-laws. You will recognise
the names of many of the dishes from visits to your local Indian
restaurant. It’s very probable, however, that you will prefer your own,
freshly-made version. Do I have favourites from this volume? Yes,
many.
Lamb with Plums had my immediate attention. It’s a speciality from the
aforementioned Veeraswamy restaurant. The dish hails originally from
Hyderabad, as did the founder of the restaurant, Edward Palmer – his
grandmother was a Hyderabadi Princess. A delightful history for a
delicious curry. It’s an economic dish for the home cook: stewing
lamb is the main ingredient and the spices are those found in your
local supermarket.
Another must-try from the non-vegetarian dishes is Meat Cooked with
Cardamom. It’s home-style food rather than restaurant fare. I love
anything flavoured with cardamom. It has a distinctive taste and aroma
and is used extensively for both sweet and savoury dishes. This a
simple dish to make and has few ingredients. In fact none of the
recipes in this book should hold any terrors for even the inexperienced
home cook. The recipes are clearly written and the cooking techniques
don’t demand exotic kitchen equipment or any cheffy skills.
Cauliflower has long had a bad press for being a dull and boring and
aesthetically unappealing vegetable. Perhaps Cauliflower and Potato
Curry will help to elevate its profile. It’s a marvellous main dish for
vegetarians but it’s hearty enough to be enjoyed by those who are
card-carrying carnivores. The vegetables are chunky and the sauce
warming. An ideal winter supper.
50 Great Curries of India gives a colourful overview of regional Indian
food. Camellia Panjabi’s writing is charming and accessible, and the
book is full not only of recipes but also of information on spices and
their uses, as well as hints and shortcuts. A book for curry
connoisseurs and those who would like to be.
Asian Cookbook review: 50 Great Curries of India
Author: Camellia Panjabi
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £15.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-819-6
La Porte des Indes
Cookbook
Some of you, my dear readers, might be able to translate
that title with ease (education is a marvellous
thing). The Gateway to the Indies is my stab at it but why is it a
French title for a book of Indian food? The subtitle is The legacy of
France in Indian regional cuisine and, yes, there is indeed a region of
India that was a little piece of France ...till 1954.
I had already some idea about Pondicherry as my father had spent time
there in the 1940s (his friend, Taffy, being “deported” to India for
having a liaison with the daughter of a civil servant) but I had no
idea that the French food connection had lasted so long. It’s subtle
but unmistakable.
There are in fact deux Portes des Indes restaurants, one in London and
the other in Brussels, where it originated. Not probably the city with
the closest of Indian connections but evidently one which was open to
new culinary trends. La Porte des Indes is part of the Blue Elephant
empire and has the same sumptuous decor, that has become the trademark
of both restaurants.
The vibrant driving forces behind both the restaurant and the cookbook
are Mehernosh and Sherin Mody. The book has also benefited from the
skills of food and travel writer John Hellon and we have the gorgeous
results of their collaboration. It’s contemporary, bright and full of
amazing close-up shots by celebrated photographer Tony le Duc.
But the food is the star. There are familiar dishes but even these have
been given the La Porte twist. I hadn’t expected to see Chicken Tikka
Masala, which has become a cliché of Anglicised Indianish food.
This dish, however, is something a bit smart and has a sauce of
turmeric yellow. A cut above the original.
A signature dish of La Porte des Indes is Poulet Rouge (Chicken in a
Creamy Red Sauce) but it is easy for a home cook to make this dish.
It’s rich and stunning and just what you’ll cook if you want to impress
on a budget. Chicken thighs are economic and the other ingredients are
readily available in your local supermarket.
Duck is one of those archetypical French ingredients so here we have
Magret de Canard Pulivaar (Roasted Duck Breasts in a Spicy Tamarind
Sauce). The meat might make you think of romantic bistro meals in Paris
but the marinade and sauce are all Indian. Madame Lourdes Swamy of
Pondicherry is the originator of this recipe.
This is a restaurant cookbook so it has a chapter devoted to cocktails,
and just the names will transport you to the subcontinent. Monsoon
(Midori, melon vodka and champagne), Tamarind Martini (gin, limoncello
and tamarind puree) are just a couple and there are also some lovely
desserts.
Indian restaurant desserts are often a disappointing bunch but La Porte
des Indes Cookbook has some unique and classy ones. Payasam (green
lentils and tender coconut pudding) is a stunner but it would demand a
visit to an Asian supermarket. Chocolate and Chikki Kulfi is Belgian
Chocolate and Praline Ice Cream and a true liaison of two of the
world’s classic culinary cultures.
La Porte des Indes Cookbook is something a bit special. It’s modern and
full of innovation but it cherishes its French/Indian roots which have
combined to create a cuisine with touches of both. A joy to read and to
cook from.
Asian cookbook review: La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Authors: Mehernosh Mody, Sherin Mody and John Hellon
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £20.00
ISBN 1-86205-643-9
Dal and Kadhi
Sanjeev Kapoor is the Indian chef with the golden touch.
His acclaimed TV series, Khana Khazana, has
enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best
Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is
the popularity of this man.
Dal and Kadhi presents regional comfort food at its best and the book
is as delightful as the food. Each recipe is accompanied by a
photograph by Bharat Bhirangi who has a talent for showing these dishes
in a mouth-watering fashion. You’ll be planning your next meal before
you leave the bookshop.
What could be better than a flavourful dal or kadhi to eat with rice or
roti? Your meal might be humble or you could add a dal to an array of
other dishes to make a sumptuous and satisfying spread. They range in
texture from the rich and substantial to the light and refreshing to
suit the season or the occasion. These are the dishes that people miss
when they leave home and crave when they are in far-off countries.
This book offers 45 recipes that you will want to add to your culinary
repertoire no matter what your home region. They are a broad-based
selection of recipes so there is sure to be something to please every
palate. Dal Makhni is perhaps the most celebrated both in India and
overseas where it has become a restaurant speciality, although seldom
cooked in an authentic style. Maharashtrian Kadhi is a traditional dish
and represents India’s culinary diversity in a most delicious way.
All these dals and kadhis are tempting but as with life in general
there are firsts among equals and I have picked a few that are
particularly tempting. Rajasthani Baati ki Dal is made with split green
gram (dhuli moong dal) and Bengal gram (chana dal) and the resulting
dal is served with traditional baked balls of dough.
Bhindi ni Kadhi is bound to be on my list as I love ladies’ fingers
(bhinda/ bhindi). This is a soupy combination of yogurt and gram flour
(besan) flavoured with spices. The vegetables remain a little crisp
giving the kadhi an interesting texture.
Dal Hari Bhari contains spinach and fenugreek leaves, onions and
spices, and Sanjeev uses it to tempt those who would not normally enjoy
green vegetables. This would be an easy meal when served just with rice.
Dal and Kadhi is an Aladdin’s cave of ideas for quick, tasty and
healthy dishes. One expects lovely books from Sanjeev Kapoor and this
is another in that collection that never disappoints. You don’t have to
spend a lot of money to enjoy good food. This book will show you the
way in fine flavourful fashion.
Asian cookbook review: Dal and Kadhi
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-415-1
The Yogurt Cookbook
Arto der Haroutunian died too young. His books have become
collector’s items but thanks to Grub Street we can all have access to
his collections of eclectic and fascinating recipes. He had a focus on
Middle Eastern food but this particular volume is ingredient-based and
offers an insight into the uses of yogurt in many culinary traditions.
Yogurt is a mystical food, being live in the same way as yeast. It’s
healthy and versatile, and can constitute a light snack in its natural
form or be an essential ingredient for both sweet and savoury dishes.
Popular now in the UK, it was once a rarity. 50 years ago it was
unheard of and 10 years after that it was found only in the fridges of
those middle classes who might have travelled to Greece for a holiday.
It then became synonymous with hard-core vegetarianism and all things
bland. Those days have gone and now we all have access to good quality
yogurt and we can even make it at home.
We are now more aware of the healthful properties of yogurt. The author
starts with a memorable quote from one of its supporters: “I owe my
family and age to yoghurt, nothing else – not even God!” Those words
from M. Husseynov at the age of 147.
Yogurt is easy to make at home. Just milk and a spoonful of live yogurt
left tucked up in an airing cupboard will render tubs of natural yogurt
for just a little money and hardly any effort. Add your own fresh fruit
or honey and you have a quick breakfast or economic dessert which will
be a preferable alternative to cake or ice cream for the kids. Let them
design their own toppings and they will be sure to ask for more.
A rather different use for yogurt is as a base for soft cheese. Add
herbs and a little salt to strained yogurt and you have a flavourful
and delicious starter or sandwich spread. Panir (paneer) is the
celebrated Indian cheese which uses lemon juice to encourage separation
of curds from whey. Once strained, this will set into blocks for easy
cutting. The resulting cubes can be used in the same fashion as the
commercial product.
Yogurt is the key ingredient to many Indian dishes including Murgi Dahi
– chicken in yoghurt-curry sauce. Many korma recipes also call for
yogurt and it’s the ubiquitous garnish for chaat and for Middle Eastern
kebabs, as well as those from the tandoor. My favourite recipe in the
savoury section is probably that for Roghan Josh. A simple version of
this common dish but it has all the flavour characteristics of much
lengthier alternatives.
The chapter on sweets and cakes offers many international delights and
showcases the naughtier side of this mostly healthy food. Awamaat -
Arab doughnuts - definitely fall into that category. These are somewhat
different from the Western doughnuts as they have self-raising flour as
the raising agent instead of yeast. The fried golden puffs are dipped
into rosewater-flavoured sugar syrup before being served sprinkled with
walnuts and pistachios.
Arto der Haroutunian penned a book which is filled with delicious
recipes for all manner of dishes. They are all good and all just happen
to include yogurt. It draws on many culinary traditions and will appeal
to anyone who enjoys real home-made food. If you can’t spare the five
minutes to make your own yogurt then buy some, but do try some of these
recipes. A winner.
Cookbook view: The Yogurt Cookbook
Author: Arto der Haroutunian
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-61-4
The Blue Elephant
Cookbook
This must surely be the most celebrated of Thai restaurant
empires. It would be diminishing the class and
the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from
the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and
thoroughly impressive.
The Blue Elephant has a fine reputation wherever you might find it. and
the cookbook now allows its followers to replicate its dishes in their
home kitchens. Those who have never had the pleasure of visiting a Blue
Elephant will soon appreciate the attraction.
Thai food in general has gained worldwide popularity over the past
decade. More of us have the opportunity to travel to Thailand and also
to visit Thai restaurants in our home countries, and we want to try
those dishes for ourselves. The Blue Elephant Cookbook will offer you a
marvelous array of recipes that represent the very essence of Thai food
with all its vibrant flavours.
Blue Elephant recipes are authentic, attractive and tempting. They are
not over-taxing for the competent home cook, and the ingredients are
all availiable either from your favourite supermarket’s Asian food
aisle, from a specialist Thai food store or by mail order via the
internet. You’ll not only learn how to make soups, starters, salads,
main dishes and desserts but also curry pastes and sauces.
Thai Fish Cakes will be instantly recognised by travellers returning
from sun-kissed Thai resorts. They are delicately soft with a crunch
supplied by a garnish of peanuts and refreshing lettuce. Serve this
with Cucumber Sauce (recipe in this book) and you have a delicious
snack or light lunch, or combine with other dishes as part of a Thai
buffet.
Stir-Fried Seafood with Garlic and Peppercorns (Seafood Krathiam Prik
Thai) is elegant and flavourful and would be an ideal “special” meal.
OK, the prawns, scallops and crab are not cheap but this recipe makes
the best of that seafood, and the finished result is stunning. The base
is Blue Elephant Special Sauce which you can easily make and freeze for
future use.
Tuk’s Duck Salad (Laab Ped) is a dish devised by the aforementioned Tuk
who is a chef at the Blue Elephant in London. The duck is grilled and
flavoured with a spice paste and garnished with fried shallots,
chillies, fresh coriander and salad. A simple dish to prepare but it
has great impact.
The Blue Elephant Cookbook is a jewel of a volume and definitely among
my favourite Thai cookbooks. It will be snapped up by lovers of classic
Thai food as well as those who are regular diners at The Blue Elephant
restaurants. A lovely book.
Asian cookbook Review: The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Author: Chefs of Blue Elephant.
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-303-8
The Bazaars of Istanbul
Many thousands of tourists visit Turkey every year. They
bask on the beaches, perhaps hire a boat for a holiday afloat and enjoy
grilled fish in seaside restaurants. They have a glimpse of Turkey and
its people but it is, in fact, just a meeting with the modern
globalized facade – a shadow of a rich and ancient culture.
The Bazaars of Istanbul marvellously captures these narrow shopping
streets in both photograph (300 colour illustrations) and vivid
description. Its 200 or so pages hold a wealth of images of both past
and present and show why the bazaars are still, to this day, so
captivating.
The authors Isabel Bocking, Laura Salm-Reifferscheidt and Moritz
Stipsiez bring history to life as they chart the changing fortunes of
the bazaars. They weave a colourful tapestry of turmoil, intrigue,
craftsmanship and industry.
Istanbul straddles East and West. It has held strategic importance in
many a war and revolution and has lost much of its exotic charm over
the centuries, but it still has lots to offer those who are looking for
disappearing vestiges of former glory. It’s still there to be
discovered and relished.
The city has many bazaars, the most celebrated being the Grand Bazaar.
This has been the venue for buying and selling goods from the far
reaches of the world for more than 550 years. For those of us who are
more used to seeing shop signs boasting “established in 1991” that’s
quite impressive!
The bazaar is called Grand because that is exactly what it is. It
contains nearly 3500 individual shops, 40 warehouses and has 61 streets
and alleys. You’ll be advised to take a map with you (one thoughtfully
provided in this book) or, if lost, ask directions from one of the
25,000 (yes, 25,000) people who work there. It’s likely you’ll find a
shop assistant when you need one.
The Bazaar has evolved over the centuries. It has been ravaged by fire
and earthquake. Many of its original features have been lost but there
have also been moves to protect those which remain, and to ensure that
the Grand Bazaar does not represent just an extremely big Mall selling
designer fakes (they are here in abundance) from neon-garnished
boutiques.
There is still plenty to delight the discerning shopper who wants to
have a truly Turkish experience. There are rugs to admire. This volume
has a page dedicated to the symbols found on authentic Turkish rugs.
Take a cup of coffee or tea with the shopkeeper and ask questions. He
will undoubtedly want to sell you a carpet but he will likely be
equally enthusiastic about telling you of the history of his business.
This book will have you drooling at the objects on sale. Yes, there are
tacky tee-shirts but there are lots of handicrafts still to be found.
Leather work, ceramics, intricate metal work, jewellery and prayer
beads all compete for the buyer’s attention. Visit a Turkish bath,
smoke a traditional water pipe, a hookah, and have a genuinely Turkish
meal. The authors even give a selection of recipes for you to replicate
the experience in your own home.
The Egyptian Bazaar (only 350 years old!) is the place that will draw
you like a magnet if you are a consummate foodie. Here you will find
those evocative piles of spices that we so associate with eastern
emporia. There are dried fruits and more importantly, tea and coffee.
There are many sayings woven around each of these drinks. Of tea it is
said, ‘A conversation without tea is like a night without a moon.’ A
somewhat less romantic saying about coffee runs ‘Coffee should be as
hot as a girl’s first kisses, as sweet as a night in her arms, and as
black as the curses of the mother when she finds out.’
The Bazaars of Istanbul is a sumptuous volume which gives a real
flavour of the most fascinating part of one of the world’s most
fascinating cities. A must for anyone who has already visited or who
plans to visit Istanbul.
Book review: The Bazaars of Istanbul
Authors: Isabel Bocking, Laura Salm-Reifferscheidt and Moritz Stipsiez
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £35.00
ISBN 978-0-500-51447-4
Royal Hyderabadi
Cooking
This is a collaboration between two of India’s finest sons
of the culinary arts. If you have not heard of Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev
is
probably
the
most
celebrated
of
Indian
chefs,
presenting
Khana
Khazana
on
India’s
Zee
TV)
then
you must have been living under a rock with no access either to
cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous
review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi
cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.
But what is Hyderabadi cooking? It will be a mystery to most
Westerners, who are very unlikely to have encountered it, and it is
revered by Indians, who might also have trouble tracking down authentic
dishes. It’s truly courtly, special and grand but at least this volume
makes those dishes more accessible to the home cook... and what home
cooking that would be!
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is an elegantly presented volume with stylish
photography by Bharat Bhirangi illustrating every recipe. The book has
a modern feel with the food being the rich focus in a minimalist
setting. Although the ingredients look a lengthy list for some dishes,
it’s mostly spices that are commonly found in the domestic larder.
Apart from being a striking cookbook, Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is also
something of an archive for a style of food preparation that is
disappearing. The authors have been lucky enough to recruit the
indispensible aid of two national culinary treasures who have lifetimes
of expertise. Begum Mumtaz Khan is considered a living legend and is a
member of the Jagirdhar families of the last Nizam, and has actually
tasted the food from the Royal kitchens. She has conducted cooking
classes and hosted Hyderabadi food festivals.
Ustad Habib Pasha has a passion for Hyderabadi food and a wealth of
experience. He has worked in Hyderabad’s most famous restaurants and
has been generous to our authors with his knowledge, revealing the
secrets of aromatic blends of herbs that help to give this cuisine its
distinctive flavour.
There are so many striking recipes to discover here but I have a few
favourites. Murtabuk is a layered stack of chapattis with a filling of
minced chicken, eggs and spices and is served in wedges as you would a
savoury birthday cake. It was Begum Mumtaz Khan who taught the authors
how to cook this to perfection.
Thikri Ki Dal is a delicious and comforting dal which contains amongst
the spices, onions and ghee... 2 three-inch pieces of earthenware! The
thikri are heated till red hot and then plunged into the food. They are
removed before serving to avoid damage to either guest or crockery.
This method is said to impart a distinctive and earthy flavour. Truly
unique.
Double Ka Meetha is a sweet and syrupy dessert that would be a fitting
end to a Royal Hyderabadi meal. It’s a confection of bread, nuts, cream
and saffron and simple to make. I wouldn’t reserve this for just
Hyderabadi meals, this would be welcomed anytime by those with a sweet
tooth.
The title suggests something sumptuous and rich and that is just what
this food is all about. Royal Hyderabadi Cooking presents recipes that
are regal and festive but accessible to the home cook. Amazing!
Asian cookbook review: Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor and Harpal Singh Sokhi
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4
Low Calorie
Vegetarian Cookbook
You should expect something special when you are presented
with a Sanjeev Kapoor cookbook. Low Calorie
Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an
exotic diet trend.
Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting
Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV. It’s been airing since 1993 and its
600th episode is now just a memory. He has won several awards such as
the Best Executive Chef of India Award and the Mercury Gold Award at
Geneva, which has earned this man international as well as home-grown
respect.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is just one of many cookbooks from this
charming, handsome and charismatic man. Each book is welcomed by an
adoring audience who have been impressed by the author’s skill on the
small screen. It’s said that Sanjeev never repeats a recipe and will
not need to for several decades; such is his volume of work.
Low calorie carnivorous and low calorie vegetarian recipes have often
seemed to fall into one of two categories: boring or boring with
vegetables. But Sanjeev’s book will strike the right chord with many
readers who want a low calorie diet that offers food with taste and
texture. If you don’t enjoy the food that does you good then you will
fall back into the same old unhealthy eating habits which got you into
your chubby mess to start with.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is about flavour, and Sanjeev has a
collection of recipes that will tempt even those with no health or
weight issues. This is good food with intriguing combinations of spices
and fresh ingredients. There are Nutrition Information charts with each
recipe to enable the home cook to make the best choices to achieve a
balanced diet.
The recipes are broad-based and you don’t have to be a lover of
traditional Indian food to appreciate the dishes. Sanjeev has French
onion soup but his version raises the bar with French Onion and Garlic
Soup. Spicy Pineapple Boat is light and refreshing but with a little
kick from green chillies. For those who want a cool and summery salad
then Minted Mushrooms should fit the bill. This is a dish of mushrooms,
tomato, cucumber, mint leaves and a dressing of low fat yogurt, and the
addition of lemon juice provides a tang.
However delicious the European-inspired dishes might be, most of us
will be looking for that unmistakable taste of the subcontinent and
it’s here in glorious profusion. Spinach and Cabbage Parantha is a
flatbread with aromatic cardamom and spicy red chilli powder to
complement the vegetables incorporated into the dough.
Desserts are not forgotten. Kesari Phirni is a lovely dessert of
Pistachio nuts perfumed with saffron and cardamom. The sweetness comes
from a sugar substitute such as Equal or Splenda so you can indulge
with no guilt.
Do I have a favourite recipe? Well, you know I do and its Mushroom Dum
Biryani. This is a rice dish made with the traditional method but have
no fear, it’s not difficult and the results will impress both Western
and Asian friends. I’ll make this dish often, not because I have a low
calorie diet (although perhaps I should) but because it’s delicious and
simple.
A Western cook will have no problem finding the spices in local
supermarkets or from one of the many online Asian stores. The cooking
techniques are not taxing and you don’t have to take a trip to Mumbai
to kit out your new Asian kitchen. This is a fascinating book with
recipes that will encourage you to make, eat and enjoy flavourful and
healthful meals.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is the first of Sanjeev Kapoor's books
that I have had the pleasure to review, and there are more to follow.
This volume is bound to be a success with readers from every continent.
Asian cookbook review: Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00, £11.69, $25.00US
ISBN 978-81-7154-888-0
Rice, Spice and
All Things Nice
The Observer Food Monthly described meeting Reza Mahammad
as "like being ambushed by a cross between Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and
Freddie Mercury". He must be one of the most easily recognised Asian
faces on British TV. His effervescent style and playful personality
have made him a popular presenter.
Reza was born in England to Indian parents and was sent off to boarding
school in Panchgani, India, to be educated.
His parents were worried that he would lose touch with their roots if
he stayed in the UK. This provided Reza with a good British education
but he says, “It left me speaking English with a public school accent
and Hindi with an English accent. A hybrid torn between two worlds.”
It wasn’t the boarding school food that gave him a passion for fine
Indian cuisine. “The food at boarding school was vile – Breakfast: cold
fried eggs, watery lentils, stale bread, and rancid butter. Lunch:
bland curry, stodgy rice.” He fell in love with Indian cuisine in the
holidays when he stayed with his extended family in the Western Ghats
in India.
Mr. Mahammad Senior was one of the first Indian chefs to come to
Britain. “My father had arrived here in 1937 and we had been brought up
on stories of how hard he used to work - tales of how he'd have to wait
at the docks for the boats carrying the spices to come in.”
Tragedy struck the family when Reza was 16. His father died of a heart
attack and the responsibility of the family business fell on Reza’s
young shoulders. “There was an obligation to continue what my father
had left behind. It was a duty.” The business in question was The Star
of India Restaurant, Old Brompton Road, South Kensington, London.
This was the caricature of a 1950s Indian restaurant with flock
wallpaper, which wasn’t much to Reza’s taste. He embarked on a series
of revamps and has settled on classic contemporary...for a while! His
mother, Kulsum, was horrified. “But I said to her: ‘Who is running this
restaurant, you or me?’ People thought I was making a terrible mistake
but actually it was the best thing I did.”
The Star of India didn’t have the best reputation for food either, so
it’s been hard work and dedication to turn things around. “When I
inherited the Star of India from my father, I had no clue about
cooking. I picked up a few recipes from my mother and improvised on the
restaurant's existing menu. My mantra is to go easy on oil and make
food appear as appetising as possible.”
Now The Star of India is one of London’s most successful and
prestigious restaurants and Reza is both head chef and proprietor.
Today you are likely to be rubbing shoulders with media types and
“faces” from TV and film (Daniel Day Lewis, Hugh Grant and Art Malik
are regulars) and it’s said that Reza drapes himself across tables and
sings arias from time to time, but that could just be a rumour! “The
years spent managing The Star of India established the restaurant as an
institution and enabled me to explode onto the restaurant and food
scene.”
Those media types come in handy sometimes! One of the regulars was a TV
director who came up with the idea of Madhur Jaffrey (the original
Cooking Star of India) and Reza collaborating on a cookery series that
became A Taste of India.
Reza has become a familiar face on TV with UKTV Food Channel's Delhi
Belly with Sanjeev Bhaskar, the star of Goodness Gracious Me/The
Kumars. Reza’s irrepressible and often camp persona was allowed full
rein which resulted in an exotic travelogue filled with authentic food,
colour and pazazz. The success of Delhi Belly and the popularity of
Reza led on to further series of Coconut Coast, and United States of
Reza.
Reza Mahammad has penned his first book, Rice, Spice and All Things
Nice; it’s a mixture of dishes from his
restaurant, travels, and family recipes handed down through the
generations. “It’s an attempt to demystify Indian cooking,” says Reza.
“More and more people know how Indian food should taste because they've
been travelling, but they don't know how to cook it.”
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is a dream of a cookbook. It has that
blend of food and travel that I, for one, find so appealing. The
photography of both food and Reza is mouthwatering and the text is
amusing but also encouraging. The man obviously wants you to cook his
food and you won’t be disappointed if you do.
The recipes are marvellously well chosen and offer something for every
taste and skill. There are plenty of classics (Indian Rice Pudding to
die for, Cucumber Raita, Chicken Dhansak) but lots of others which
might be less familiar.
Afghan Aubergine Casserole has surprisingly few ingredients, is simple
to make and delicious. Dak Bungalow Chicken has a longish list of
ingredients but don’t be put off. This is another easy dish to make and
it’s a stunner. Meatballs in a Green Sauce (Koftas Hara Masala) also
has a good number of ingredients but the preparation is easy and you’ll
just need to serve some rice alongside. A good recipe for a large
dinner party.
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is amongst my top 10 cookbooks. It is a
thoroughly entertaining read, the food is gorgeous, I can make every
dish without tears, and it’s a book I’ll actually use. I’ll need
another copy as this one will soon be sauce-spattered and dog-eared.
The sign of a well-loved cookbook.
Asian cookbook review: Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
Author: Reza Mahammad
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84737-049-5
The Asian Grill
Yes, it’s a BBQ book but one with a difference. This will
capture the imagination of those who long for
something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding,
burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal
adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The
charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of
marinades and condiments.
Corinne Trang is an international chef and food authority. Her heritage
is Asian and European, and she is one of the few who are truly at home
with both genres; but more importantly she loves food. Might sound a
strange and rather obvious statement but there are many chefs and
food-industry gurus who are just doing a job, but Corinne is a chef, a
food professional, and a foodie with all the passionate enthusiasm that
word implies.
I am not a lover of Fusion food as it is so often a compromise. Some
chefs have built reputations on marrying ingredients which should never
even have been introduced. Corinne’s food is easily described as good
food with Asian flavour. There is nothing here that will bring the cry
of horror, nothing that jars, but plenty that looks good on paper and
even better on a plate.
The Asian Grill will gently lead you away (you can return from time to
time) from ketchup, mustard and liquid smoke and will playfully nudge
you in the direction of soy sauce, sesame oil and mirin. All the
ingredients are available in a supermarket near you or via mail order.
The cooking techniques don’t require a training course and you probably
already have the equipment, so you are ready to dazzle.
Back-yard grilling isn’t famed for having a sophisticated meal as its
end-product. It’s more often burgers like hockey pucks and flavourless
chicken. It’s rarely the food that is the centre of attention but
rather the grilling process that encourages conviviality. We marvel at
the “skill” of (mostly) men who only don an apron when the smell of
lighter fuel is in the air. Grilling is simple and was the first
cooking method. Cavemen didn’t say “I’ll rustle up a nice
soufflé for lunch” or “How about a delicately toasted English
muffin with passion-fruit jelly?” No, dear reader, it would likely be
“Pass me the pinny, Unk, I’m grilling tonight.”
Corinne has a flair for flavour, not only for the dishes that are
grilled, but for all the associated breads, rices, noodles, and even
sweets and drinks. There is everything you will need in this one
vibrant and attractive volume. You will be able to compose meals around
the grill that will be elegant but still fun both to cook and to eat.
I love lamb and The Asian Grill has a recipe that is a joy. Lamb
Marinated in Yellow Spice Paste is flavoured with a pungent mix which
elevates these kebabs into something mouthwatering. Corinne suggests
serving these with Scallion Flat Bread from this same book. Pork
Patties could be an alternative filling for that bread, and this recipe
has a distinct Vietnamese flavour with fish sauce and lemon grass. BBQ
Pork is Corinne’s version of the Cantonese classic, Char Siu, often
seen hanging in windows in Chinatowns the world over. This will always
be a crowd-pleaser.
Perhaps my favourite recipe is that for Spicy Sweet Soy Sauce Marinated
Chicken. It couldn’t be easier to prepare but the resulting bird is a
long way from the usual lack-lustre poultry of by-gone BBQs ...or I
might choose Spicy Squid Salad ...but Asian Clambake is impressive
...although...
The Asian Grill is a book stuffed with tempting and flavourful food.
You don’t need to know anything about cooking Asian food, and even a
novice griller should be confident of a lot of compliments; everything
you need to know is here. Corinne Trang has once again produced a book
that will soon be stained through much use, and that’s a fine accolade
for any cookbook.
Asian cookbook review: The Asian Grill
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US
ISBN: 978-0-8118-4631-8
Noodles Every Day
To the untutored this might seem an uninspiring
proposition, but it’s perfectly possible to eat noodles every day and
perhaps even several times a day without feeling as though it’s an
endurance test.
Corinne Trang is a US based author, radio and TV broadcaster on the
subject of Asian food. She is a well respected authority on foods from
China and Southeast Asia and has been described as the “Julia Child of
Asian Cuisine” by the Washington Post and me. Corinne has penned
numerous books and has won a raft of awards - her very first won Best
Asian Cuisine Book in the World at the World Cookbook Fair. Not too
shabby!
Corinne has a passion for food and not just Asian food (a casual
conversation with this lady about anything from bread to breakfast will
have you drooling). Her background, a combination of French and
Chinese, equips her very well to take her place in the culinary arena
of both East and West.
Noodles Every Day is an attractive volume with marvellous photographs
by Maura McEvoy. It’s more than a cookbook – this is an encyclopaedia
of all things noodley. Every possible variety of noodle is considered
and a wealth of recipes is offered. This is the original fast food and
it’s both healthy and sustaining which is more than can be said for
most of the popular western alternatives.
Every noodle type has its recipes but you can mix and match to suit
your own taste. The five noodle categories are Wheat, Egg, Buckwheat,
Rice and Cellophane but there is an additional chapter which covers
Buns, Dumplings, and Spring Rolls. Although these are not noodles they
do fall under the “snack” umbrella as do some of the noodle dishes.
Corinne introduces you to stock making and some typical Asian
condiments, as well as basic ingredients. You will have all you need to
be ever ready, with the addition of a few fresh items, for a quick but
impressive meal... and fast!
Wheat Noodles with Spicy Ground Pork is a Szechuan classic. Dishes from
this region are prized for their robust flavours and this one is no
exception although the stir-fried Napa cabbage (Chinese Leaves) adds
sweetness. Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Beef and Broccoli is another
meat and vegetable recipe and a worldwide restaurant favourite but it’s
easy to make at home. It’s flavourful, rich and comforting.
One of the most striking recipes in Noodles Every Day is that for Egg
Noodle Soup with Five-spice Duck. This would make a smart dinner party
dish with its succulent, aromatic meat and the soup served on the side.
For sheer luxury though, Crab-flavoured Noodles with Velvety Crab Sauce
and Green Peas takes some beating. It’s a simple recipe but has a
cheffy quality about it. The crab-flavoured noodles can be found in
larger Chinese food stores but if you can’t get hold of them you can
substitute regular thin egg noodles.
Noodles Every Day is an instructive and inspiring book. It’s
thoughtfully written with the western cook in mind but Corinne Trang is
never pedestrian in her choice of recipes. This isn’t just another
Asian cookbook but rather a vehicle which will help you to appreciate
all the subtle flavours and textures that Asian food has to offer.
Noodles Every Day will surely be another award winner.
Asian cookbook review: Noodles Every Day
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95 US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6143-4
Scent of the Monsoon
Winds
Just the title evokes visions of hot steamy nights with
the exotic (and for me exciting) aroma of damp vegetation and soil. The
atmosphere that assures one of tempting and flavourful food.
Michal Haines has had a warm relationship with spices for all of her
life. Her Chinese grandfather, Stan (you know that any Chinese
grandfather called Stan would be a positive influence) left her with
memories of fine food and a treasured meat cleaver. Michal has worked
extensively in the New Zealand food industry, running gourmet food
stores around Auckland.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is a multi-ethnic cookbook with great shelf
appeal. Michal offers an introduction to spices and their uses in the
five main spice-dependant cuisines, and she suggests a list of spices
that will allow you to prepare those dishes. There is nothing much that
will demand a vacation to the Spice Islands (although it’s a good
excuse). You’ll find it all in your regular supermarket, or mail order
if you live on a remote hilltop.
The chapter headings are intriguing: Portable Feasts, Spiced Nights,
Winter Blues and Kingly Condiments. The recipes are also a unique
bunch, encompassing some celebrated dishes such as Indonesian Chicken
Rampah and Cheese Sticks, but there is a lot here that will be new to
many readers. Even an impressive book collection would not provide you
with Michal’s own family recipes, which she shares here.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds offers modern versions of some classic
dishes such as Drunken Chicken. This is a tangy but light dish with a
kick from ginger, Szechwan peppercorns, star anise and cassia. Arabian
White Coffee Cream will transport you to the souk: this is a
sophisticated but simple dessert and truly a bit different.
Hot Mezze Hummus is a speciality of the mountains of Eastern Turkey and
is a radical departure from the ubiquitous tepid hummus that we
recognise from deli counters and Middle Eastern restaurants. This
recipe has additional flavours and textures and is altogether more
complex, although very simple to prepare.
If you are looking for a quick meal with impact then you could be
turning to Vietnamese Dinner Noodles. There are quite a few ingredients
but don’t be put off - this is cooking at its basic best. Pirate
Chicken has plenty of punchy panache with Jerk Paste supplying the
heat. It’s another fast meal but impressive nevertheless.
If Scent of the Monsoon Winds has a signature dish then it is, for me
at least, Honey Tamarind Roast Duck. This is a flavourful and succulent
recipe which avoids the perennial problem of dry meat. It all has to do
with the cooking method, and this roast duck isn’t roasted but rather
simmered. This is going to be a new classic.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is an attractive volume of charm and
innovation. It will be enjoyed by spice lovers who don’t have endless
time to spend in the kitchen. We will, I hope, hear more from Michal
Haines.
Asian cookbook review: Scent of the Monsoon Winds
Author: Michal Haines
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-86966-211-0
Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
All you regular readers will know how I have waxed lyrical
about other books by Kentaro Kobyashi and this one
will be no exception. Veggie Haven from the Easy Japanese Cooking
series has all the characteristics which helped to make Donburi Mania
and Noodle Comfort so appealing.
Kentaro Kobayashi is a young man with a passion for food and not just
Japanese food. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for the culinary arts. His mantra is “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and has
appeared on television where he showed his skill for making delicious
food with little effort.
I like this man’s style. Kentaro continues to present us with
delightful food with a twist. Veggie Haven has Japanese elements but it
isn’t a traditional Japanese cookbook. I suspect this might be the way
modern Japanese eat at home: we in the West have embraced Chinese and
Indian food, and it’s certain that a Tokyo housewife might similarly
enjoy, as Kentaro suggests, a hearty potato gratin or a
deliciously-garnished pizza. Take the aforementioned pizza and top it
with garlic and anchovies. Use a bought pizza base and you’ll have a
classy lunch, light dinner or nibbles with apero in no time at all.
Some liken tofu to a tasteless bath sponge. Consider it a vehicle for
robust flavours. Sweet and Spicy Fried Tofu is a simple recipe which
offers a tapestry of tang that will convert even a die-hard carnivore.
This is the healthy face of fast food.
The cold weather is here in the northern hemisphere so warming dishes
are the order of the day. The original Chop Suey is said to have
originated in America; Kentaro offers Vegetable Chop Suey. This is a
tasty pot of vegetables and the addition of quail eggs helps to elevate
this dish to something luxurious.
Veggie Haven is an ideal cookbook for novices who want to try something
a bit out of the ordinary. The recipes are clearly written and allow
the cook to arrange things in steps. There might be a collection of 3
ingredients for a sauce that can be mixed before cooking starts.
Perhaps the thickener can be made in advance. For simplicity these are
noted in the ingredient list rather than in the method. No need to be
overwhelmed: the dishes are easy.
In the US Japanese ingredients are readily available - America has had
a closer relationship with Nippon than has Europe. Here, most larger
Asian supermarkets stock Japanese ingredients and there are many
internet sites that will be more than happy to supply you with the
goods.
Kentaro Kobyashi introduces us to his Veggie Haven. This will be a
‘must read’ not only for Japanese food lovers but for those who want to
present vegetables with a difference. This might be described as fusion
food but it works for me.
Asian cookbook review: Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc
Price: $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-62-0
Martin Yan’s China
If you are a US-based reader then you will have heard of
Martin Yan. He is the effervescent presenter of
Yan Can Cook which boasts 2500 or so episodes. He is a celebrated chef
and food consultant and award-winning author. Martin is founder and
chairman of Chef Martin Yan’s Culinary Arts Centre in China. Martin
Yan’s China is the companion volume to another of his Public Television
series.
Those from outside America should know that Martin Yan is a talented
and charming chef. He is fun-loving and full of humour. His cheeky
smile and easy manner have encouraged millions of American Public
Television viewers to have a go at Chinese cooking. He is a passionate
food professional and teacher who is proud of the land of his birth and
its culinary heritage.
Martin Yan’s China is a combination of travelogue and recipe book.
Martin’s usual affable manner shines through the text which is witty
and conversational. This chef wants you to cook his food and gives you
every support and encouragement. He offers an index of ingredients and
basic recipes before introducing you to his tempting dishes.
A Chinese cooking debutant might be anxious about the exotic
ingredients. All are available in larger supermarkets, at your nearest
Asian store or online. I know you are internet savvy as you are reading
this review so you have no excuse to not try these dishes.
For the most part the cooking techniques are not taxing and there are a
few tricks that you could use in future cooking adventures. A pasta or
noodle nest makes a great presentation for Chinese but also for other
cuisines. Martin gives instructions for making noodle baskets in Double
Happiness Pasta. A delicious and simple dish which looks spectacular.
I’d consider making these baskets and filling them with an Asian salad
as a light starter.
I am impressed by Martin’s recipe for Preserved Duck Legs. Think French
Confit and add the aroma of Chinese five-spice. It’s another easy dish
but rather smart. Use the meat in stir-fries, stuffing for spring
rolls, in place of Peking Duck, and also in Special Fried Rice. Martin
suggests Preserved Duck with Clay Pot Rice. Buy a traditional clay
casserole from Chinatown for an authentic centrepiece.
Grilled Spiced Pork Chops is an adaptable recipe. Martin uses asparagus
but you can use green beans. Chicken or even turkey could be
substituted for the pork. This is an ideal, quick week-day meal. Just
add a bowl of rice or some noodles and contentment will be assured. A
comforting and warming dish.
Steamed Ginger Sponge Cake is another Martin Yan recipe with a very
European-sounding name. Steamed sponges are always light and this one
is also exotic. It contains not only the aforementioned ginger but
coconut milk as well. That’s a marriage made in heaven.
Martin Yan’s China is bound to be popular with those who have enjoyed
his amusing shows. Entertaining though this man may be, he is also
skilled at selecting recipes. This is a book of balance and charm. The
dishes are designed to be accessible to the home cook. It’s an
attractive volume full of innovation. Lots here that I will enjoy.
Asian cookbook review: Martin Yan’s China
Author: Martin Yan
Published by: Chronicle
Price: $24.95US, £15.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6396-4
Bento Love -
Easy Japanese Cooking
All of my regular readers will know the name Kentaro
Kobayashi. I have reviewed another book of his which had its focus
on Donburi, an underrated Japanese dish. He has now turned his
attention to the evocative bento box.
Most of us would only have encountered a bento box via our TV screens.
They are the stylish packages that are found on Japanese railway
stations. No self-respecting documentary about the land of Nippon is
complete without the western presenter opening his lunch to discover a
savoury and attractive array of rice and accompanying dishes. All very
exotic and exciting, but on analysis we are talking food on the go,
which needs to be delicious and sustaining.
Kentaro has fond memories of the lunch boxes prepared by his mum. As a
growing lad he craved flavourful meat. He was sometimes lucky but
whatever the contents of his bento box he was always excited by it, and
well fed. He has taken the opportunity with Bento Love to indulge his
dream of meat-laden lunch to present some fine recipes, but he has also
included dishes that would be craved by both vegetarians and those who
prefer fish.
This chef has a knack for recipe selection. He has, once again, chosen
dishes that will be tempting for the Japanese reader but equally for
those of us who are not so familiar with Japanese food. There is
nothing here that is bizarre, no ingredient thought delectable only by
the Japanese. This is an accessible and delightful twist on a packed
lunch which is a million miles away from a boiled egg sandwich and a
bag of salt and vinegar crisps (chips).
The first recipe is that for Deluxe Steak Bento with Simmered Shiitake
Mushrooms and Sautéed Watercress. That’s no surprise considering
Kentaro's love of protein. The Pork Steak Bento with Sautéed
Snap Peas and Shimeji Mushrooms is served with Shiba-style Pickles. Use
your favourite European mushroom if you can’t find the shimeji variety,
but you will likely find all traditional ingredients in your nearest
Asian supermarket or online.
Cashew Chicken Stir-fry is a Chinese classic but is included here
because this is a book about contemporary Japanese cooking. It’s a dish
that works well for the lunch box, as does Japanese-style Chicken and
Potato Curry, and there is even Fish and Chips Bento which includes
some broccoli and rice balls.
My favourite recipe is Simmered Croquette Bento. This is a dish made
from leftovers but I think it’s worth the effort of cooking from
scratch especially for lunch. It’s a moist and flavourful dish and real
comfort food. It’s hearty and would be welcome as a substantial lunch
on a grey winter’s day.
We all need to eat and we should want to eat well. The credit crunch
has forced many to consider a packed lunch from home. It’s a great
notion and would save you cash but if that aforementioned lunch is
unappetizing then you’ll soon be back to a curly, dry sandwich or a pie
and a pint at the nearest pub. Consider some Japanese-inspired bento
and be the envy of your colleagues. But don’t forget that you can eat
all these dishes at home. They work just as well on a plate as in a box.
Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking is
another Kentaro Kobayashi success. Well-written recipes, stunning
photography by Hideo Sawai and great value for money. This volume is to
be admired but also used. Hope we have many more books from this chef.
Asian cookbook review: Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc.
Price $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-58-3
The Sari
This wasn’t, to be honest, what I expected. It has a
bright and evocative picture on the front cover but
this isn’t a book about colourful textiles, it’s about how the sari is
worn and the place it holds in Indian society. It’s a simple length of
cloth but to suggest that is all it is would be rather like saying a
book is just reconstituted tree.
I have always admired women in saris. It’s not just the fabric that
holds one’s attention but rather the form, the drape, the movement of
the material. It’s an ancient dress but one that is by the same token
timeless. It hints at exotic sexuality while simultaneously conveying
an impression of modesty.
The Sari is about the wearers of saris and their relationship to it.
It’s complex and varied but one that has impact. The diverse strands of
feminine Indian society have a common denominator and that is the sari,
with all its myriad styles and significance: it is not just an item of
clothing like, for example, a western tee-shirt - a sari plays a role
in much of Indian social interaction.
The Sari has a collection of personal stories from women who wear or
have worn the sari on a regular basis. For some it’s reserved for smart
evening wear, with western attire being the choice for the majority of
the time. Others are full-time sari wearers who might even wear a sari
to bed to ensure that they are covered from prying eyes at all times.
The sari in many of these cases is used as an expression of religious
and familial conformity.
Indian school girls don’t wear saris and the first time one is worn
heralds the start of adult life. It was interesting to read that Indian
women do, in fact, have sari accidents and anxieties. Yes, there have
been occasions when a sari has become unwound, a careless foot causing
embarrassment. I have tried a sari and I’ll not feel safe in one
without the use of several 4-inch nails and a weightlifter’s belt.
Sari-wearing is an art.
The Sari is a book that has introduced me to an aspect of Indian
society that is seldom discussed. One looks at attractive ladies in
beautiful clothes and one takes the sari at face value, but this
amazing book shows a fascinating aspect of the lives of so many women
of and from the subcontinent. It’s a worthwhile and compelling read and
encourages one to consider the wearer rather than the worn.
Asian book review: The Sari
Authors: Mukulika Banerjee, Daniel Miller
Published by: Berg
Price: £14.98
ISBN 978-1-84788-314-8
The
Complete Book of Korean Cooking
I am convinced that Korean food will be the next big food
trend. It has an appealing mix of
tongue-tingling spice, light freshness and an array of textures. It’s
generally low in fat and high in fibre so will be welcomed by all of us
who enjoy robust flavours but yet seek healthful meals.
The author, Young Jin-Song, is the owner of several Korean restaurants
in Asia as well as Shed in London. His first book, Korean Cooking, won
the Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
in 2006. The photography (800 step-by-step pictures) is supplied by the
celebrated food photographer Martin Brigdale. He is a prize winner who
has contributed to more than 50 cookbooks.
The Complete Book of Korean Cooking does not assume you know anything
about Korea, its culture or its cooking. It offers an introduction to
Korea, its geography, people, festivals and religion, and gives an
overview to help put food into context. It’s evident that Koreans take
their food seriously and enjoy not only formal and family meals but
also take advantage of snacking opportunities.
There are 150 or so recipes here and, no, dear reader, they are not all
mouth-numbingly spicy. Kimchi is well spiced but you can choose from
several different varieties, from the classic cabbage Kimchi to Spring
Onion Kimchi which is not as fiery, although it is still packed with
flavour. If the cabbage Kimchi proves a bit too strong then use less
chilli next time or make the ever-popular Pan-fried Kimchi Fritters.
These are small cakes of kimchi and tofu and are served with a soy
dipping sauce. They work well as either a light lunch, a starter for
any Asian meal or a snack with drinks.
Stuffed Squid with Soy Dipping Sauce is traditional market food and a
world away from dubious hot dogs that are ubiquitous in the West. This
is surprisingly simple to make but it looks amazing and very chic. Very
little work for maximum impact. Seafood Salad in Mustard Dressing is
another dish that is simple, flavourful and smart and, at last, I find
a decent recipe that includes whelks. A must-try dish along with Spicy
Whelk Salad.
Braised Tofu might be the dish to persuade carnivorous westerners that
tofu is something more than white, flavourless jelly. Consider it a
healthy vehicle for flavour. The cubes of tofu are cooked in a sauce
which gradually reduces to a thick glaze. It’s rich and delicious.
The Complete Book of Korean Cooking has a good selection of seafood,
noodles, vegetables and rice but meat is also popular in Korea. Grilled
Beef in Sweet Soy Marinade is not at all spicy but uses garlic and
sesame seeds to add flavour. Sweet and Spicy Chicken is a dish
appreciated by those who love some heat. This recipe has garlic,
chillies and chilli paste to provide spice and colour to the chicken.
The resulting dish is red and impressive, and could be served with some
plain rice for a quick meal.
This book is a visual stunner. Its step-by-step photographs show every
element of preparation but that preparation is, for the most part,
simple. Buy a couple of jars of chilli paste and you’ll be cooking
authentic Korean food in no time. A lovely book and great value for
money. I thoroughly recommend it.
Asian cookbook review: The Complete Book of Korean Cooking
Author: Young Jin Song
Published by: Lorenz Books
Price: $35.00US, £16.99
ISBN-13: 978-0-7548-1786-4
Quick and Easy
Korean Cooking
Korean food has a place in America’s restaurant and recipe
book pantheon but it’s a new-comer on the
European food scene. There are more and more restaurants to be found
but they are not as common as Indian restaurants, or even fish and chip
shops, those bastions of traditional British dining that seem to be a
dying breed.
Koreans love Korean food, that’s evident, but it’s a cuisine that
travels well. It should hold no terrors for the European home cook as
the techniques are simple and the ingredients (apart from a few spice
mixes) can be found in your regular supermarkets. The end result of
your efforts will be, however, a dish that is uniquely Korean, with all
that it implies.
So what does that imply? Flavour. It’s been rumoured that Korean food
can bring tears of chilli-induced pain to the eyes of seasoned spice
eaters but that’s an exaggeration. Yes, there are robust flavours
aplenty but you can season to taste.
Quick and Easy Korean Cooking is written by Celia Hae-Jin Lee who is a
first-generation Korean American. Her first cookbook, Eating Korean,
was selected as one of the Best of the Best by Food and Wine Magazine.
She writes extensively for American papers and periodicals.
All the recipes here are easy to follow. There are lots of photographs
by Julie Toy to give you a bit of confidence and the book gives an
overall impression of style. Pages have been thoughtfully designed to
give a hint of Korean culture and taste without being overtly themed.
This volume boasts 70 or so recipes that are truly quick. They should
take you 30 minutes or less to prepare. It could be a popular book for
that fact alone. If you are embarking on a new culinary escapade then
you won’t want to be spending a good part of your day waiting to try
your creations. We are talking fast family meals that you don’t have to
reserve for special occasions.
Family recipes they might be but this list includes lots of celebrated
dishes. Bibimbap (a bowl of rice with various toppings) is ubiquitous
in Korean restaurants. Kimchi (traditional pickled vegetables) is the
dish that has made grown men cry but you can choose your heat level.
Boolgogi is seasoned slices of beef and typically Korean.
The charm of Korean food is that there are so many authentic dishes
that are quick to prepare with inexpensive vegetables and spices. Add
some fish or meat and you have a feast. Celia has provided several
menus to enable the novice to combine dishes for various meals. You can
start with the Tummy Warmer Breakfast (Black Sesame Porridge and Hot
Ginger Tea) and finish with the Elegant Dinner Party (Soju Cocktail,
Skewered Beef, Spicy Sashimi Rice, and Poached Asian Pear).
Quick and Easy Korean Cooking is a lovely and gentle introduction to
Korean food. It’s an attractive book that will encourage you to try for
yourself this marvellous but overlooked cuisine. Delicious!
Asian cookbook review: Quick and Easy Korean Cooking
Author: Celia Hae-Jin Lee
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US, £11.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6146-5
Cookbook
review: No-Oil Cooking
There are many of us now who are overweight and an
increasing number who are clinically obese. In some European countries that figure has
increased (no pun intended) to 25% of the population. That is a
staggering statistic.
We have more overweight people and the weight by which they are “over”
has also increased. The reasons for the rise in weight-related disease
are simple: modern lifestyle and eating habits. We drive more and walk
less. Our jobs often require little movement apart from fingers
sprinting across computer keys. We don’t think we have time to cook
healthy foods and we choose more and more fatty, pre-prepared foods or
takeaways (takeouts).
Sanjeev Kapoor presents us with recipes that are both oil-free (that is
to say no added oil) and are still delicious and satisfying. He is
India’s most celebrated chef and food industry guru. Sanjeev is
increasingly recognised by a discerning overseas audience as an
authority on Indian food and his books and TV series Khana Khazana have
long been popular. No-Oil Cooking has his touch of exotica and common
sense which will be appealing to every nationality of reader.
Cooking with no added oil isn’t difficult... but it’s important to have
recipes that have that taste and mouth-feel that at the end of the meal
give us the sensation of having had “proper” food. It’s no good eating
an oil-free meal and then tucking into a huge box of chocolates because
you feel empty.
The chapters cover everything from drinks to main courses to sweets and
everything in between. The recipes listed don’t read like worthy, noble
and boring healthfood dishes. This is tasty food that just happens to
be good for you. The whole family will enjoy these offerings so you
won’t be confronted with the perennial problem of cooking one meal for
the health-conscious folk and a different one for those who just live
to eat. One meal fits all!
Garlic-Flavoured Rasam is my choice from the Beverages, Soups and
Salads chapter. This is comfort food that is, thankfully, good for you.
It is easy to prepare and that preparation only takes 10 minutes. The
cooking time is just 30 minutes, without constant attention.
Corn Bhel couldn’t be simpler and is the ultimate healthy snack.
Sanjeev uses Green Coriander Chutney and Date and Tamarind Chutney for
this delight and he gives both recipes so you’ll have no excuse not to
make it.
Vegetable Seekh Kebabs would be a great addition to any barbeque. They
would be welcomed by vegetarians who are so often overlooked on these
occasions but it’s also no-guilt munching for those who are looking for
a healthy option. These are so tempting that you’ll need to make enough
for the meat eaters as well.
No-Oil Cooking offers fast, no-fuss food that is full of flavour,
colour and texture. Your body will thank you and so will your family.
Cookbook review: No-Oil Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs 295
ISBN 81-7991-279-5
Donburi
Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
I love Japanese food but seldom have I been offered
anything other than tempura and sushi. Now, don’t get
me wrong, I could eat both those lovely dishes every day but there is
more to Japanese food than raw fish and battered vegetables. There is
Donburi!
What exactly is this donburi? It’s all about rice. Doesn’t sound very
interesting, does it? Top that rice with meat and/or vegetables and
perhaps a few noodles and often egg, cooked or not. Those garnishes
complement the rice which is held in such high esteem by the Japanese.
The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and
passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for food. His motto has always been “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on
television where he represented the new generation of cooks who wanted
taste and texture in no time.
I am a food writer and researcher and frequent eater, and I had oft
encountered recipes for Donburi but it was Toronto (no, not Tokyo) that
gave me an opportunity to try these tempting dishes for the first time.
I chose a chicken donburi which arrived with a sunny egg yolk nestling
on top of vegetables and tender meat. I have been searching for such
donburi perfection since then.
At last my menu scanning is over and I have help at hand in the guise
of Donburi Mania, which houses between its covers 70 recipes for meals
that are quick, delicious and healthy. You’ll have dinner ready in the
time it takes to cook rice. You can use last night’s leftovers with
some fresh vegetables for crunch. It couldn’t be simpler. No exotic
equipment needed and more importantly...no special skills.
It’s been difficult for me to select a few recipes to represent
donburi. All of Kentaro’s dishes are appealing and encompass a wide
range of ingredients. There is plenty here for a vegetarian and for
fish lovers but the author will not expect you to follow his ideas
meticulously. Donburi is about casual and modern eating so make a few
from this book and then invent your own.
Stewed Pork Donburi makes use of cheaper cuts of meat. This recipe is
more time-consuming than others as the meat needs to simmer for an hour
or so. You don’t have to sit and watch the pork cooking so it hardly
constitutes as slaving over a hot stove. The end result of your
foreplanning will be a silky and soft preparation that will become a
firm favourite. It’s real comfort food that will have you finding
excuses to make it.
Chicken Sukiyaki Donburi reminds me of my first encounter. You can use
last night’s leftover Sukiyaki (or cook chicken in a sweet soy sauce)
so you’ll have a smart meal in less than 20 minutes. The egg yolk might
be alarming for the uninitiated but it forms a creamy coating which is
rich and luxurious. Be brave.
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking is the most comprehensive book
around covering just this unique and flavourful dish. I’ll be eating my
way through each of Kentaro Kobayashi’s tempting recipes.
Asian cookbook review: Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc.
Price: £9.99, $14.95US
ISBN-13: 978-1934287491
Thailand - A World
of Flavours
The author of Thailand - A World of Flavours is Christine
Watson. The name doesn’t sound very Thai or
even Asian but, in fact, Christine grew up in South-East Asia and so
has been well placed to select dishes from Thailand that are certainly
authentic but are also appealing to the western palate. Christine
trained at the internationally renowned Leith’s School of Food and Wine
and now works as a food writer and stylist in London.
Christine gives a tantalising overview of Thai cuisine in the first
section of her book, and presents some classic dishes that those who
have travelled to Thailand, and Thai restaurant-goers, will recognise.
Fish Sauce with Chillies is as ubiquitous in Thailand as, say, ketchup
might be in the west. It’s simple to make but it will add that
distictive kick to Thai food. Chicken Pad Thai is one of the best known
of Thai dishes but Pad Thai can also be made with seafood or tofu.
Mangoes feature highly in Thai cooking, both sweet and juicy for
desserts, and unripe in salads. Christine offers a delicious Mango
sorbet that would be a charming finale to a traditional meal.
Each region of Thailand has its own cuisine which depends upon the
produce found in that area. The north is mountainous and far from the
sea so fish isn’t used so often. Pork, chicken and beef cooked in mild
curries are typical. The food of Southern Thailand has the flavours we
dream about. Coconut, fishcakes, shrimp and peanuts. The tropical
climate encourages coconut palms to flourish and those coconuts are
used to great effect in Coconut Beef Curry. This is quick to make but I
suggest you reduce the quantity of chillies unless you want an
authentically HOT Thai curry. It makes an impressive meal for little
effort.
There is a recipe in Thailand - A World of Flavours that would
encourage any Thai food lover to buy the book: it’s Chilli Preserve.
That might seem strange but it’s a recipe seldom seen. Many books give
rafts of instructions on how to make every dish from slow-cooked
curries to carved fruit but Chilli Preserve is the essence of Thai
cuisine.
Christine Watson is a writer who has evident passion for the food of
South-East Asia. Her selection of recipes shows the best of Thai
cooking and also introduces us to new delights that we can easily make
at home. It’s an attractive and enticing volume and great value for
money.
Asian cookbook review: Thailand- A World of Flavours
Author: Christine Watson
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-320-8
Balance and
Harmony – Asian Food
This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful cookbook I
have ever reviewed. The floral cloth cover is a
vision of cottagey charm, and the quality of the paper used inside that
lovely binding sets this book apart. The artwork that recalls
between-the-wars China is stunning and presents a more stylish
impression than would the more often found shots of a contemporary food
market in Hong Kong (live fish in small buckets and snakes in jars
being the touristy norm) or a cleaver-wielding cook wearing a vest
(singlet or undershirt depending on the national origin of my dear
reader).
Neil Perry, the author, fell in love with Asian food at a very young
age. His dad had a passion for all things Chinese and would take his
son on visits to Sydney’s Chinatown to shop for ingredients and to eat.
These excursions evidently made a great impression on the young Neil.
Several decades later Neil has his own restaurant and he believes his
love of Asian food has helped him produce better dishes, whether Asian
or western.
Balance and Harmony is the name of the book, and the recipes reflect
that, guiding you to taste and adjust the seasonings and spices as you
cook, to achieve a dish that tantalises the palate. Neil isn’t
suggesting that food needs to be complicated, but it should have depth.
The book is divided into two sections. The first part covers Basic
Techniques and Recipes, and the second has Advanced Recipes and Banquet
Menus. I would think that all the recipes could be tackled by an
enthusiastic home cook, but the first chapters would be a good starting
point for the novice or those who are unfamiliar with Asian food.
There are lots of classic dishes here and the book is no worse for
that. Prawn Toast is popular with restaurant goers but
it makes lovely nibbles at western drinks parties. Sweet and Sour Pork
has long had a
bad press. It’s often a nasty greasy mess of stodgy batter coated with
a sauce so bright you could read a book by its glow. Balance and
Harmony offers a homemade version that puts the Panda Paw Inn (I trust
there is, in reality, no such restaurant) to shame.
Tangerine Peel Chicken is a triumph. This is a Sichuan-inspired recipe
and has heat in the form of chillies as you might expect. The peel adds
a hint of citrus perfume that is subtle but unmistakable. Although this
recipe is found in the Advanced section it is in no way beyond even a
modestly adept cook.
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food is gift-quality and a stunner. The
recipes don’t disappoint and cover a wide spectrum of Chinese dishes to
tempt carnivores and non-meat eaters alike. It’s a delight.
Asian cookbook review: Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
Author: Neil Perry
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-74045-908-2
660 Curries –
The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Yes, I knew that a book of some 660 curries was winging
its way to me but I had no concept of what a
book of those aforementioned curries might look like. This is a
seriously big book that cuts no corners and skimps not a jot of detail,
advice, background or explanation.
The author Raghavan Iyer is a US-based Indian chef and educator. Both
those disciplines place him ideally for writing this Curry Bible, this
Subcontinental Encyclopaedia, this Master Work of Spicy Delight. I
don’t mean to rename Raghavan’s book but it should have a title that
more accurately reflects the breadth of the topic.
To tackle a cookbook of this size might be a daunting prospect,
especially for the novice cook. No need to be put off. Raghavan gently
takes your hand and leads you through every element of spice selection,
paste grinding, frying, grilling and simmering. He doesn’t assume that
you have a familiar and close relationship with your kitchen, and
you’ll not be confronted by recipes that are anything other than simple.
660 Curries offers every conceivable curry for every possible occasion.
I am impressed by Raghavan’s recipes for pastes and spice blends. These
take just a few minutes to prepare but add a taste of true authenticity
to dishes. Spices are readily available in stores or by mail order.
The recipes will tempt both meat eaters and vegetarians. Every meat has
its chapter and each vegetable has numerous possibilities. I love
lentils and beans, and I thought I had acquired a reasonable repertoire
of dishes but this book must contain every recipe ever devised. There
are many with which I am familiar, such as Moong Masoor Dal (Red and
Yellow Lentils) and Teen Taal Dal (Creamy Black Lentils) but that’s a
fraction of the Legume Curries listed.
Chicken is popular among non-vegetarian Indians and it was amusing to
find Chicken Tikka Masala. Yes, it’s said to be Britain’s National
dish. Raghavan points out that it was concocted entirely for Europeans,
but is delicious when made well. I guess we can still call it an
authentic Indian dish because it was originally cooked by authentic
Indians.
The chapter entitled Curry Cohorts is as important as the Curry
chapters. The Cohorts are those indispensible side dishes or
accompaniments. Rice is the obvious candidate, and Raghavan describes
10 alternatives to the plain boiled that tends to be the norm. There
are plenty of breads including traditional roti, as well as hearty
Mutter Kachoris (Flaky Breads stuffed with Spicy Green Peas).
An Indian meal isn’t quite complete without an array of other items to
nibble. Papads (or papadoms) can be used instead of bread with a curry
or served as an appetiser with some chutney or relish. Kachumber is a
fresh Indian “salsa” made with chopped cucumber, tomato and onion. It
is tangy and light and is amazing with fish. Nimboo Ka Achar is a lime
pickle and one of the most popular preserves. Raghavan has an easy
version that will add a tang to curries and breads but also to European
cheeses such as cheddar.
660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking departs from the savoury
theme just long enough to tempt you with Mango Cardamom Cheesecake.
This is unmistakably Indian. Well, OK, cheesecakes aren’t normally
considered to be an Indian invention, but the addition of cardamom
gives the impression that cheesecakes might well have been first
devised in a classy restaurant kitchen in Mumbai. A sprinkle of fresh
pomegranate seeds, and you have a stunning and exotic dessert.
It’s been my pleasure (mostly) to review hundreds of recipe books and
they have been well written and informative, but 660 Curries has a
place in my top 10 books reviewed to date. Raghavan has an easy style
of writing which is engaging and full of wry humour. I spend half my
life eating Indian food and reading Indian recipes but 660 Curries –
The Gateway to Indian Cooking has held my attention, introduced me to
new dishes and encouraged me to learn more. This is one of the largest
tomes to cross my desk (kitchen worktop on trestles) but the quality of
research and penmanship are what sets this book apart. Raghavan Iyer is
a remarkable ambassador for Indian food. Amazing value for money.
Asian cookbook review: 660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Author: Raghavan Iyer
Published by: Workman Publishing
Price: $ 22.95US
ISBN 978-0-7611-3787-0
Khazana of Indian
Recipes
Sanjeev Kapoor is the popular and charismatic host of the
Indian TV show Khana Khazana. He has been
presenting this award-winning programme since its birth back in 1993
and it has been the vehicle that has made Sanjeev a household name in
India. It has also allowed him to take centre-stage promoting Indian
food worldwide and this book brings you, the international audience, a
chance to try for yourself some recipes that have made Sanjeev Kapoor
such an icon.
Khazana of Indian Recipes is a general cookbook rather than one with a
focus on a particular type of cuisine, regional food or healthful
ingredients. This gives the reader an overview of typical recipes that
might even be familiar to those of us who live outside India. Such is
the draw of Indian food that even those who steer clear of the kitchen
will have already eaten some of these dishes in restaurants or at the
homes of friends. Khazana of Indian Recipes will persuade even a novice
that Indian food is easy to prepare, with ingredients found in almost
every western supermarket. Those living in India will enjoy this book
as a good representation of dishes you will honestly want to cook.
A general cookbook should have a bit of everything and Khazana of
Indian Recipes does. Soups and Salads, Snacks, Chicken, Lamb, Seafood
and Vegetables along with Accompaniments, Breads and Rice are all here,
as well as a tempting selection of sweets.
A glance through the pages of this book will give you the impression
that Indian food is quick and easy to prepare. The majority of dishes
have only a few paragraphs of instructions. Don’t be put off if a
couple of recipes sport a lengthy list of ingredients. Closer
inspection will show that the majority of those items are spices that
will doubtless be already gracing your shelves.
Yes, I have favourite recipes but there are a lot of them. Batata Vada,
Kheema Potli, Murgh ke Shami must be near the top of the list because I
love snack foods. Malai Kofta Curry would be my pick for a non-meat
dish; Prawn Balchao for my favourite seafood choice and Chicken Makhani
for that rich and decadent meal that we all need from time to time.
None of these dishes is difficult and every one will be superior to
those found in all but the best restaurants.
But let me just mention some of the sweets that I adore and would
cheerfully have broken an arm for... well, before I found the recipes.
Besan ke Laddoo – few ingredients but the result is worth more than the
sum of its parts. Chocolate Burfi with only 4 ingredients should be
made a national treasure.
Khazana of Indian Recipes might be the book for you, even if you have
only space for one Indian cookbook. It’s clearly written and honestly
shows that Indian meals take no time at all. Throw away the take-away
menu, find the map to the kitchen and dust off the hob.
Asian cookbook review: Khazana of Indian Recipes
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: RS 250.00, £12.99
ISBN 81-7154-872-5
India
–
The
Ultimate
Sights,
Places,
and
Experiences
This book is large, colourful, and sumptuous and any other
superlatives you care to mention. It’s a
luxurious encyclopaedia of the subcontinent and covers pretty much
every aspect of life, art and culture of this marvellous country.
India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences is a weighty tome
but it’s true to say that the subject is so vast that even this book
can’t cover it in depth. What it does do is portray India in a most
sympathetic and unpatronising fashion. The writers and photographers
have evidently done their homework and intend you to have a broad-based
look the people and places that make India so memorable.
I can hardly begin to tell you how bored I am by TV documentaries about
Suchandsuch’s View of The Real India. In truth these documentaries just
serve to reinforce stereotypes that westerners hold so dear. We are
confronted by yet another rat-filled temple (yes, they are there but
there is more to worship than that) and people living on the streets
(Do Indian producers come to London to film drunks on park benches?).
This book looks at typical Indians who have jobs, who work hard (and a
few that don’t need to), go to school and have dreams of the future.
India is both ancient and new. Modern India is a little over 60 years
old but its soul and character have existed for millennia. Towns in
India had well-developed sewage systems in prehistoric times. More
correctly, times when the west had done nothing much to make history
but times by which India was already civilised and cultured.
India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences draws on 700 or so
pictures to lead you through this vast country with all of its
awe-inspiring scenery (everything from mountains to lush valleys, from
desert to jungle). It also introduces you to all its major religions,
its amazing architecture, its art and treasures, and its diverse
population.
India is, at last, taking its place as a world power. Its future
is bright and it has young people who will make a success of this land
that has so much to offer. This gem of a book gives a tantalising
overview of the country and its culture. It’s not a text book but
rather a volume to be enjoyed by the whole family. It’s impressive and
a joy, and astounding value for money.
Asian book review: India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences
Published by Dorling Kindersley
Authors: Christopher Pillitz, Gary Ombler, Abraham Eraly, Yasmin Khan,
George Michell, Mitali Saran
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-2904-0
Gardens of
Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages
We British tend to think that we invented gardens and the
concept of those spaces as areas of leisure.
English gardens are mimicked the world over and even in countries whose
climates are unsuitable for even the notion of a cottagey, green and
lush space.
In horticultural terms India would be the head gardener and Europe
would be either the apprentice lad or the pot washer, depending on
which particular European gardening nation we are considering. India
has been gardening for longer and on a grander scale than probably any
other country, but its gardens are so often overlooked in favour of
those more stereotypical examples from England, Italy and the classic
ones of France.
It’s not just that Indian gardens are beautiful but there is another
element and one which is missing from most western gardens. So many
plants and trees have a religious or mystical association that adds
another dimension to an already exotic environment. Tulsi (sacred
basil) is revered by Hindus for both its medical and spiritual
qualities. This shrub is unique in that it emits oxygen at night and
was therefore planted in courtyards where people would sleep to avoid
the oppressive heat of summer.
Sandalwood is also known as Chandana in Sanskrit and ancient texts tell
us that the scent of the tree filled the Gardens of Paradise, and it is
still used in Hindu religious ceremonies. In 1792, the Sultan of Mysore
declared sandalwood to be a royal tree and now every such tree has
government protection to prevent illegal smuggling of this prized wood.
The Lotus is the national flower of India and sacred to both Hindus and
Buddhists. It represents Lakshmi, the goddess of fortune and
prosperity, and the flower symbolizes spiritual enlightenment,
divinity, fertility, wealth and knowledge.
Banyan represents the gods Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma and is symbolic of
life and fertility. The tree can grow to an amazing size and the Great
Banyan in Howrah in the Indian Botanic Gardens is among the largest in
the world.
Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages charts the changes
reflecting the tide of varied influences of culture and religion.
Ancient paintings depict scenes of formal gardens with couches and
fountains, exotic trees and flowers. These gardens were considered
extensions to the inside living areas and often had pavilions and tents
to provide shade and privacy.
Garden design does not remain static and this book has some stunning
examples of modern Indian gardens. The swimming pool of the Oberoi
Amarvilas Hotel in Agra owes much to Moghal architecture but has crisp
terracing that reminds one of classic European gardens in Italy. The
Baha’i Temple in New Delhi is modelled on a lotus flower. It’s a
veritable Asian Sydney Opera House floating on a sea of green. The
podium gardens at the Kalpataru Horizon in Mumbai blends contemporary
architecture with Indian trees and shrubs. Striking.
Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages is a sumptuous
book and a joy to leaf through. It’s filled with ideas for those of us
who want to create our own Gardens of Delight. It’s a perfect gift for
gardeners and travellers and those who love India.
Asian book review: Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages
Author: Rahoul B. Singh
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-836-1
Food of Japan
It’s the winner of a Japan Festival Award ‘for outstanding
achievements in furthering the understanding of
Japanese culture in the United Kingdom’ in 2000. In the same year it
was also short-listed for the World Cookbook Awards and the Guild of
Food Writers’ Jeremy Round Award for Best First Cookery Book. The
author, Shirley Booth, in 2006 was awarded the Japanese Agriculture
Minister's Award for Overseas Promotion of Japanese. There was no doubt
that this book was going to be interesting.
Shirley has amazing credentials, being not only an award winner but,
more importantly, having lived in Japan and taught Japanese cooking
there. She seems to know just about everything there is to know about
the subject but her addition of historic and personal narrative puts
the food into context. It is that conversational but informative style
that elevates this book to something more than just another ethnic
cookbook.
Japanese food has become more and more popular over the last few years.
Japanese restaurants proliferate and chilled counters in supermarkets
groan under the weight of pre-packed sushi. The price is often
prohibitive and the selection is small. So why don’t we just make
Japanese food at home... and something other than sushi?
Well, we could and should but this is a relatively new food trend and
we need a bit of coaxing. It’s true that the ingredients are not as
readily available in the high street as, say, Indian or Chinese, but I
know you have heard of the internet because you are reading this
marvellously well-executed review. Just order ingredients online.
There are 200 or so recipes in this volume so there will be plenty to
fire the imagination. My advice would be to look through the index and
find a dish that you just like the sound of. Make up your mind that
you’ll prepare your choice at the weekend and then go to the recipe.
It’s unlikely that you’ll find a cooking technique that you have not
encountered before and it’s probable that your dish will have familiar
ingredients. No excuse not to have a go. Japanese food is famed for
being healthy, flavourful and different. We should all be considering
our diet and cooking foods that taste good and do us good.
You could start your culinary adventure with Gyoza. These are not
strictly Japanese in origin but are popular Chinese dumplings adopted
in the same way as Europeans have adopted kebabs. These are easy to
make and a good way to disguise cabbage. Chicken Teriyaki is simple to
prepare and tasty. I have used the Teriyaki sauce as a marinade for
salmon so the recipe can be adapted for non-meat eaters.
One dish that will be popular with westerners will be Gyudon. It is,
like so many here, simple with few ingredients but lots of flavour.
It’s fried beef and onions with an added sauce of typical Japanese
flavours: soy, mirin and ginger. Serve over a bowl of rice and you’ll
have satisfied guests.
Food of Japan is a lovely book that is sure to become a classic.
Shirley Booth presents what could be an intimidating subject in an
accessible and witty fashion. This is a must for anyone who has an
interest in Japanese food or culture.
Asian cookbook review: Food of Japan
Author: Shirley Booth - http://www.shirleybooth.co.uk/index.html
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 1-904010-21-0
Modern Spice
You know, dear reader, that Indian food is my passion.
It’s been my pleasure to review many Indian
cookbooks written by India-born Indians, UK-born Indians, India-born
English, and now an India-born Indian living in the USA. Monica Bhide
is that Indian and she has penned a most delightful book that will be
as well received on this side of the pond as it is bound to be in the
US.
Modern Spice takes a look at Indian food and gives it a twist. None of
us have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We want food that is
flavourful, healthy and attractive but we don’t want to be taking all
day cooking it. Monica has a life full of children, work and husband
but she still wants to present food that reflects her rich heritage.
She takes advantage of ingredients that are readily available in
western supermarkets and adds Indian spices to create a selection of
new recipes that are both Asian and Western. This isn’t fusion food,
it’s evolution food.
You don’t have to be a practised preparer of subcontinental food. There
is plenty of advice here to set you off on your culinary journey. The
first chapters introduce you to the spice pantry and then Monica’s
Kitchen Rules. Nothing to make you anxious, just good sound cooking
know-how.
Monica has captured the essence of Indian food but she has transformed
it. These dishes are both accessible and charmingly different from
those that we more often see in European-targeted cookbooks. The Indian
“Burger” is traditional street food but Monica has adapted it for the
western kitchen. This is comfort food at its spicy best. Heirloom
Tomato Salad with Chat Masala has few ingredients and fewer directions
but the result is both refreshing and spicy. Again, it’s using great
produce to present something that is unique and appealing.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of favourite recipes from Modern
Spice. The Legendary Chicken 65 will become... well, legendary. It’s
that combination of deep-fried food (don’t look at me that way, I am
not eating it every day) and a spicy oil as a garnish.
Green Beans Subzi can be made with frozen green beans. This is a
marvellous side dish to some plain roast meat. Yes, it has the
unmistakable flavour of India but you don’t need to use Indian dishes
just with Indian meals. There is so much in Modern Spice that you can
mix and match with the European.
True, this is a cookbook, and a very fine one, but if you just read the
recipes you will miss so much. Monica’s life has taken her from India
to Bahrain and then to America. Modern Spice is a book made richer by
family anecdotes, stories of laughter and tears. It’s a warm-hearted
page-turner with lovely recipes. Modern Spice should become a classic
of contemporary Indian cuisine. It’s not a compromise, it’s fresh and
inviting.
Asian cookbook review: Modern Spice
Author: Monica Bhide
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: $25.00, £17.19
ISBN 13: 978-1-4165-6659-5
Virtual Dinner
for Modern Spice
Now, here's an interesting concept - a "virtual" meal with
all the guests
offering dishes that they have made from a particular cookbook. In this
case Modern Spice by Monica Bhide. View the whole meal at http://mbhide.typepad.com/
Here are my chosen and thoroughly scrumptious dishes and the review of
Modern Spice to round off the occasion.
Beet Salad with Yogurt Dressing
This is a revelation. We Northern Europeans are familiar
with beetroot pickled in mouth-puckering vinegar but Monica Bhide
presents us with a dish that is both sweet and zesty, light and
delicious. The tang of ginger makes a surprisingly good marriage with
the yogurt and vegetables. The subtle spices allow this dish to work
well as part of an Indian meal, a starter for a western summer lunch,
or as part of a vegetarian buffet. Don’t be tempted to mix the dressing
too thoroughly with the beets. A drizzle will give you a striking plate
of crisp white, powder pink and rich red.
Rice Pudding and Mango Parfait
The first thing I would advise is to change the recipe!
That sounds like the start of a review of a bad recipe... but read on.
The change that I would advise is to double the quantity of this
delicious confection. Monica suggests that this dish would be enough
for 6 people but three of us sampled this rice pudding... and we
sampled it again, and we all agreed that it’s a winner. All your guests
will want a second helping of this fragrant and creamy dessert – a cool
version of the more traditional pudding and, in my humble opinion, an
improvement. The mango adds an interesting texture and freshness but if
you are not a lover of mango then this dish would work equally well
with soft fruits and berries or apple purée. Bananas turn this
dessert into comfort-food heaven.
Eggplant and Tomatoes with Cilantro
This is a versatile dish with authentic Indian flavours.
The texture makes this a real candidate for suppers by the fire, or for
rustic lunches. Monica has crusty bread as the accompaniment and that
would be lovely, but I’ll eat mine with roti and Indian pickles. Try
this with your next roast dinner: Idaho potatoes are a key ingredient
here but for those of us who have no idea where Idaho is, we can use
our favourite local potato, it will work just as well. I’ll make this
again!
An Indian Kitchen
This is a cookbook that works for me on several levels.
The author is relatively unknown, it’s spiral-bound so it’s a book you’ll be persuaded to use in your kitchen,
and thirdly it’s sold in a good cause.
The author, Farida Khan, is an amazing lady. She didn’t start her
working life with catering in mind. Farida was a gifted medical student
at the Chittagong Medical College when she married a young surgeon,
Majid Khan, and three days later they set off for a new life in Somalia
where they were presented with many challenges including finding
somewhere to eat!
Farida had to learn to cook out of sheer necessity but it’s evidently a
talent that might have remained hidden had she not left her own
country. That would have been a great loss to her friends as well as to
the many charities that have benefited from her skill as a cook and
baker.
The Khans moved to Edinburgh in 1966 and Farida began to build a
reputation for fine hospitality. She was urged to give cooking lessons
which eventually led to her setting up her own catering company. Her
birthday and wedding cakes are legendary but she has always found time
to support charities and in this case Cancer Research UK.
If you are the thoughtful sort you will buy this book to support this
very worthwhile cause, but isn’t it good when you actually get
something worthwhile in return. This is a rather good cookbook that has
some great Indian recipes but also some European dishes such as Roasted
Tomato and Basil Soup, and Pavlova.
The Indian recipes are a lovely collection of family favourites and
some that might not be so well known by non-Indians. The Bread chapter
has chapatis and puris as you might expect but there is also Aloo
Paratha and Puran Puri. The Rice chapter offers Vegetable Pillau and
Chicken Pillau but also includes Masoor Pillau which is a rich rice
dish with lamb and lentils.
You’ll expect me to wax lyrical about a particular recipe and I won’t
disappoint you. It’s Delhi Korma, a recipe given by Farida's cousin.
Korma has something of a bad rap. It’s a dish ordered by those who
visit Indian restaurants under coercion. It’s an item sought by those
who don’t actually like Indian food. Korma sauce is a supermarket
staple which invariably ranges from over-sweet to bland. Try this
recipe and you’ll find yourself converted to Subcontinental food in
general and a real korma in particular. Simple to make, authentic and
delicious. It’s mild and comforting and a world away from anything
you’ll find in most restaurants.
An Indian Kitchen is a cookbook with the feel of a well-loved archive.
You’ll enjoy the recipes, which aren’t over taxing even for the novice.
Your family will thank you for buying this book... and so will Cancer
Research UK.
Asian cookbook review: An Indian Kitchen
Author: Farida Khan
The book retails for £10 from all Specsavers stores throughout
Scotland and is being sold in aid of Cancer Research UK. If people
south of the border are interested in purchasing the book then please
contact susanne.grant@beattiegroup.com. She will liaise with you with
regard to payment, and postage and packaging.
The Complete Asian
Cookbook
I first came across Charmaine Solomon in the 1970’s. My
first recipe book was Charmaine’s Chinese
Cookbook and I am still using it today (well, actually, last Saturday
night). It’s a treat to have The Complete Asian Cookbook, which is a
mammoth one-stop Asian recipe book that covers those countries that
constitute what we in the West consider Asia. Not the geographic Asia
which would include parts of Turkey and Iran etc, but the Asia from
China to Indonesia, from Pakistan to Japan
Ken Hom has written the foreword and he says “I trust that this major
culinary work will be a companion to your cookery books as well as
being used as a standard reference...” One glance will tell you that
this volume is noteworthy. It’s a mine of information on food history,
culture and practice for all the main Asian cuisines.
Although this is a formidable volume it’s a cookbook that is meant to
be used. It’s ideal for those who have already discovered a passion for
cooking Asian food but also for those who would like to. Charmaine
doesn’t assume you know anything about the subject. She guides you
gently through the basic techniques and even gives you a convenient
shopping list for those store cupboard ingredients for each of the
cuisines.
The chapters are divided by country and the lesser-known culinary
nations are also given space. There are few books that focus on Sri
Lankan dishes and probably still fewer that present the food of Burma.
Each section has a wealth of classic dishes as well as family-style
recipes, and the sheer volume is almost overwhelming!
I do have favourite recipes. Crisp Fried Pork with Sweet and Sour Sauce
is a Chinese restaurant staple but it’s often heavy and greasy. This
recipe is lighter and fresher-tasting than the take-away favourite.
This recipe also works well with chicken and prawns and I often use the
sauce over rice with vegetables.
Some Asian recipe books are a bit light on sweets. India has some of
the finest as the sweetshops even in the UK will attest. Some of these
delights are easily made at home and your guests will be impressed by
an authentic Asian dessert rather than a scoop of trifle. Kulfi is a
delicious Indian ice cream and the home-made version is far superior to
the commercial offerings of the larger supermarkets. Mysore Pak, like a
shortbread, has
crumbly texture and has a delicate hint of cardamom and almond. Just
right with a cup of afternoon tea. Barfi is probably the most common of
Indian sweets and comes in many colours and flavours but The Complete
Asian Cookbook has probably the most popular - Barfi Pista made with
Pistachio nuts. Irresistible.
The Complete Asian Cookbook doesn’t have a picture for every recipe
(there are 70 recipes just starting with the letter A!) but there are
sufficient to give the impression of a sumptuous book that you will
want to use. Yes, its size is impressive but the content is what will
attract the reader. It’s a book of reference, charm and practicality.
Amazing value for money!
Asian cookbook review: The Complete Asian Cookbook
Author: Charmaine Solomon
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 1-9040-1018-0
The Cinnamon Club
Cookbook
The title evokes pictures of colonial plantations with a
menu of Anglo-Indian dishes and probably jam
roly-poly in sweltering heat. That vision could not be further from the
truth. This is all about classy and contemporary Indian cooking which
manages to give a nod to that other fine cuisine... French.
The authors, Iqbal Wahhab and Vivek Singh, present us with a book
filled with recipes from their celebrated Cinnamon Club restaurant in
Westminster, London. This is a cut above (in fact many cuts above) your
high-street curry house. This magnificent building is home to elegant
dining, and it just happens to be Indian dining.
There is a move away from the long-familiar, standard fare on offer at
the local take-away. We have travelled to the subcontinent and eaten in
Asian friends’ homes in the UK, so we know that there is something
better to be had. The Cinnamon Club Cookbook introduces a new concept
which combines the best of Indian food with the presentation that we
would normally expect from an up-market eatery in Paris. The authors
have added wine recommendations which will be a relief to those of us
who yearn for something other than a pint of Cobra with our spicy meals.
The recipes are surprising and tempting. Rabbit Tikka is ideal cooked
on the barbeque with a nice chilled glass of Syrah from the Languedoc
in France alongside. Spice-crusted Rib Eye of Beef with Masala
Sautéed Potatoes would make an exotic change for Sunday lunch,
served with wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal.
My favourite dishes are the accompaniments. Rajasthani Chickpea
Dumplings with Yoghurt is a dish not often found on restaurant menus.
Punjabi Black Lentils with Tomatoes and Cream would make a meal alone
with just some fresh roti. But the chapter with the most comfort food
has got to be Breakfast with such delights as Potato-stuffed Parathas,
and Haleem which is a lamb stew with lentils and wheat. OK, so it’s a
substantial meal but lovely on a cold winter morning.
Cinnamon Club Cookbook is a book packed with innovation. It will
elevate home cooking to something for those special occasions when you
want to get out the real napkins and buy a good bottle of wine.
Some say that there are three outstanding cuisines in the world:
French, Chinese and Indian. For me Indian food is at the top of the
list for flavour, colour and variety. It’s a cuisine I long to learn
more about and the more I learn the more I realise I don’t know. The
Cinnamon Club Cookbook is a delightful tool to continue my education.
Asian cookbook review: Cinnamon Club Cookbook
Authors: Iqbal Wahhab and Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 13: 978904573012
The Chopsticks Diet
I guess that just the word “diet” will have half of my
dear readers turning the page (if they were able to
do such a thing on a website) and the other half waiting with bated
breath for the next word that will change their lives completely. For
those diet-haters I ask you to read on. For those who expect a magic
solution for weight loss with no effort I must tell you there will
never be one, but you might just find that this book helps.
Kimiko Barber is an award-winning author of books on Japanese cooking.
The Chopsticks Diet is slightly different from others of Kimiko that I
have reviewed. They focused on taste and some of the renowned
health-giving properties of Japanese food. The Chopsticks Diet takes a
slightly different and rather revolutionary approach, that of the
combination of appropriate foods and the use of chopsticks.
The dishes that Kimiko offers are tempting to the taste buds and a
feast for the eye. I am not a great lover of health foods that are
bland and unappetising. We shouldn’t consider weight problems as an
illness that can only be treated by unpleasant medicine in the shape of
unpalatable meals. That just feels like punishment and reinforces the
impression that we have been “bad”.
The key is in the title “Chopsticks”. If you use chopsticks to eat your
food (OK, we will exclude soup) then you are bound to lose weight. You
will naturally eat slower and take smaller mouthfuls and this fools you
into thinking that you have eaten more than you have. Meals will be
smaller but you will not feel deprived or hungry.
Yes, you could continue to eat your habitual foods with chopsticks and
you would probably lose some weight, but how much nicer it is to enjoy
a dish that is attractive and looks like it SHOULD be eaten with
chopsticks. If you are going to make changes then have some fun.
The recipes in The Chopsticks Diet are enticing. There are just a few
uniquely Japanese ingredients but they will be readily available from
larger high street supermarkets, or online if you are a computer-savvy
shopper. The basics are fresh vegetables, fish and noodles and will be
healthful even if eaten with a fork.
The Domburi recipes are perhaps my favourite. The Chopsticks Diet has a
selection of these dishes that are quick and easy to prepare. It’s rice
with a variety of toppings and I think Domburi should be as
well-publicised as its cousin, sushi. Egg and Spinach Domburi is
comfort food Japanese style. The egg creates a sauce for the rice and
gives a marvellously silky texture. A classic.
The Chopsticks Diet is a fresh and welcome approach not only to weight
loss but to healthy eating in general. The recipes are stunning but not
difficult. Gone are the days of cardboard crackers and calorie
counters. Eat well and enjoy your food. It’s doing you good.
Asian cookbook review: The Chopsticks Diet
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-826-4
Made in India
My passion for Indian art started in the 1960s when UK
shops were filled with all manner of Asian textiles,
pictures and ornaments. These were the years of pop art, Hari Krishna
and tie-dye. Made in India reflects “real” popular Indian art, that is
to say the art available to the masses via advertising hoardings, boxes
of matches, calendars etc. It ranges from primitive to elegant but
always evocative.
The authors are evidently enamoured with this art form as they have
produced similar volumes for Made in China and Made in Japan. Kalim
Winata is a computer animation artist and an expert on Asian art. Reed
Darmon has designed numerous books and gift products published by
Chronicle Books.
Made in India is a chunky, compact volume that offers hundreds of
images of everyday Indian graphic design from past centuries. They
include folk art, religious prints, and black and white postcards from
the time of the Raj, and artwork for children’s books. It’s a book to
linger over.
Film has had a big impact on popular art. Made in India has a section
devoted to that genre. Not the glitzy posters of Bollywood but
marvellous romantic portraits of Ashok Kumar, for example, who was the
king of the movies between the 30s and the 60s.
The transport posters are quite lovely and the artistic equal to any
much-admired European equivalent. The luggage labels for celebrated
hotels such as the Taj and the Oberoi would have adorned the cases of
rich travellers of a century ago. An Air India fan of the 1960s is a
snapshot of the Flower Power style of that era.
Do I have a favourite image from this lovely little book? Well, yes and
it has to be of the goddess Saraswati. This representation is said to
have been modelled on Bollywood star Hema Malini. It is a marvellously
vibrant and charming print full of colour and religious symbolism. It
remains stereotypically Asian while hinting at European Art Deco of the
1930s.
Made in India will be sought by any lover of art history, of popular
art, of folk art or of all things Indian. It offers a peek into
advertising graphics of the subcontinent. It’s amusing and
thought-provoking.
ASian book review: Made in India
Authors: Kalim Winata, Reed Darmon
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 13: 978-0811865029
Japan – Eyewitness
Travel
You can travel to many countries and get by without a
guidebook. You might get lost, you might wish you
had the address of a hotel that had sheets on the beds, and you might
possibly even regret not taking a packed lunch... but you’ll get by.
Japan is a bit more difficult to negotiate without a bit of
professional advice.
Japan is full of contradiction and enigma. It’s ultra modern in so many
ways but it clings to its traditions. It has a matter-of-fact attitude
to nudity in the communal bath houses but remains conservative in
matters of morals. It’s a country that has embraced western-style fast
food but offers death-dicing fish dishes and live octopus. Comic books
are celebrated but religious festivals and rituals are still practised
even by the young, who will pray for good exam results (although I
expect lots of western students have secretly done the same).
This is a country that has caused anxiety in many a visitor. It’s not
the threat of violence or antisocial behaviour (less likely here than
most other countries) it’s the fear of making a social gaff, of
offending a host or a colleague. Japan – Eyewitness Travel goes some
way to steering you through the problems you might encounter when
meeting the locals. There are few rules to remember but it’s a good
idea to know what they are before you land in Tokyo.
The Japanese are polite and understanding of foreign visitors but
you’ll be less embarrassed if you can conform to the general norm of
behaviour. Take shoes for example... or rather take shoes off. You’ll
be able to tell when removing shoes is appropriate. There will likely
be several pairs of empty ones by a door and probably a pair of
slippers as well. If in doubt... watch what others do.
Japan – Eyewitness Travel doesn’t leave much to chance. Everything is
discussed, from dining etiquette to bathing etiquette. You might still
feel a little out of place but at least this book will enable you to
interact with the Japanese and leave a positive impression. You’ll
learn about culture, history and religion and be able to make your own
travel itinerary. The maps are superb and the photography is marvellous.
You can read a pile of books on Japan before you go. One of them should
be Japan – Eyewitness Travel. You’ll only want to take one so let it be
one that will introduce you to every region of this lovely country,
that will offer dates of festivals, addresses of restaurants, and a
great selection of hotels. Most importantly it will offer support to
enable you to feel comfortable with this unfamiliar culture. This book
will whet your appetite for the trip.
Asian book review: Japan – Eyewitness Travel
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-1221-9
Bollywood Posters
Over the years, Sheena Sippy has shot ad campaigns for
Johnson’s Baby Soap and others. She has also
immortalised celebrities such as Zakir Husain, international model
Naomi Campbell and politician and ex-cricketer Imran Khan. Sheena also
undertakes freelance assignments for fashion magazines like Verve and
Elle.
She was probably destined to do great things. She comes from one of
India’s best-known film families. Sheena is the eldest daughter of
director Ramesh Sippy, best known for directing the popular and
critically acclaimed film Sholay (Embers). Sheena’s grandfather, G.P.
Sippy, is known for several popular Bollywood hits such as Seeta Aur
Geeta, Saagar and Raju Ban Gaya Gentleman.
The text for this amazing posterama is written by Jerry Pinto. He has
had an long career which started at the tender age of 16. He wasn’t a
trainee journalist or a “best boy” for Bollywood movies, he was a maths
tutor! He has had a wealth of experience in the world of writing. He
has penned poetry, fiction, non-fiction, and in 2006 he wrote Helen:
The Life and Times of an H-Bomb, an affectionate portrayal of the
dancing legend who had survived in the heady Mumbai film industry for
30 years.
Bollywood Posters is a glossy, large-format volume that will be sought
after by Bollywood film enthusiasts, lovers of all things Indian and
those who are fascinated by popular art. It contains over 200
posters covering all styles of film. Posters of original films are
contrasted with the remakes illustrating the change in taste and
printing techniques.
This magnificent book charts the history of these posters from the
beautifully hand-painted examples of the first posters to the
digitally-perfect productions of the modern era. Perfect with regard to
crispness of image, perhaps, but there was indeed something magical
about the works of art of those long-gone days when the swish of a
large-scale brush could draw the viewer into another world. This genre
must be considered the archetypal Popular Art, as India has a huge
population of film-goers who have even been rumoured to sell their own
blood to buy a ticket to the movies.
It’s impossible to overestimate the importance of these film posters,
not only to the Mumbai film industry but to the film-going public.
Vibrant colour and scenes of gods, villains, beautiful women and an
array of weaponry have graced the streets of Indian cities for
generations. They advertise films of courage, comedy, drama and despair
but the posters are now, quite reasonably, adored for themselves. They
tell the story of Indian film and Indian society. Fabulous!.
Asian book review: Bollywood Posters
Author: Jerry Pinto
Photographer: Sheena Sippy
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £19.95
ISBN 978-0-500-28776-7
Raghu Rai’s Delhi
Raghu Rai may not be a name familiar to you unless you are
a
photography professional. He has, however, had a career
which has been so
noteworthy that he was awarded the Padmashree in 1971, one of India’s
highest
civilian awards. Raghu’s National Geographic article “Human Management
of
Wildlife in India” won him high praise in 1992. He has won national and
international awards, and has exhibited in Europe, Japan and Australia.
His
work has appeared in many of the world’s most prestigious magazines and
newspapers including Time, Life, GEO, The New York Times, Sunday Times,
Newsweek, The Independent, and the New Yorker.
Raghu Rai’s Delhi is an archetypal coffee table book... that
is to say that it is the size of a small coffee table. I have reviewed
many
large-format books but this is the largest and the most impressive.
This is surely
going to become a classic not only of Indian photographic subject
matter but of
photographic work in general, not for reasons of sheer volume but for
quality
of composition.
This book is the third that Raghu Rai has published on Delhi
and it spans 40 years of this man’s celebrated work. He has enjoyed
changes in
photographic technology over those years and now carries only a digital
camera.
He hasn’t turned his back on black and white, he assess each shot and
converts
colour to monochrome, and the mix of both genres adds much to this
major work.
The colour pictures have vibrancy and impact and the black and white
show mood
and texture.
You don’t have to have a passion for the subcontinent to
appreciate Raghu Rai’s Delhi. It is magnificent in its representation
of humanity
that we can all relate to. This book dwells neither on poverty nor on
opulence,
it shows candid scenes from everyday life, scenes that might have gone
unnoticed or considered banal by those of us with a less practised eye.
Each
shot captures a never-to-be-repeated moment. A story vividly painted.
Do I have favourite pictures? Perhaps. “Peeping Faces, New
Shopping Complex” shows a modern, light and airy sari shop with shelves
filled
with precisely folded lengths of gorgeous fabric. Modern furniture
gives an
almost Scandinavian feel to this picture which does still manage to
speak of
Indian style and grace. The facing page is “Reflections at Pizza Hut”
showing a
scene that could be repeated all over the world, but the reflections in
the
window suggest an older India.
Raghu Rai’s Delhi is quite simply the seminal photographic
work on this amazing city. I have pored over this book for hours. Each
frame is
a masterpiece in its own right. Raghu Rai deserves his praise and
awards. His
talent must be a gift from one of India’s many Gods.
Asian book review: Raghu Rai’s Delhi
Author: Raghu Rai
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £49.95
ISBN 13: 978-0500543771
Easy Indian Cookbook
This is a large format volume... seriously large but it’s
spiral-bound and this reviewer loves that. What joy! A
book that stays open on the counter. The pages offer a photograph by
William Lingwood for every recipe and the text is big and easily read
and understood. This book does give the impression that it’s going to
live up to its title. To keep you in the right frame of mind, the
publishers have also included a music CD to create the right ambiance
for an exotic meal.
The author Manju Malhi is evidently well supported. Her acknowledgments
read like a Who’s Who of the media food world. AWT, Jeni Barnett, Alan
Coxon, Paul Hollywood to name but a few. Manju has been a regular on
our screens for quite a while and it’s evident that people in the know
have faith in her. That’s a good start, but how about the food?
Well, the dishes look lovely and will be familiar to British restaurant
goers. You’ll be able to prepare many of your favourite Curry House
meals. Not all of these are authentic recipes handed down through
generations since the plaster on the Taj Mahal was still wet, but they
reflect what we have come to expect from an Indian menu. Chicken Tikka
Masala is here and that’s home-grown... that is, a British home!
Easy Indian Cookbook doesn’t assume you know anything about cooking
Indian food. It’s not condescending or patronising but it gives you
lots of basic advice that will be welcomed by the novice. There is a
good glossary of ingredients with Hindi as well as English names and
some basic cooking techniques which will hold no terrors.
The recipe chapters cover everything from chutneys, spice mixtures and
breads to meat and side dishes. There is also a selection of sweet
treats and that’s good to see. It’s often difficult to find an
appropriately exotic end to an Indian meal. The Menus chapter will help
you present a balanced meal combining flavours and textures that will
make you look like you know what you’re doing.
One of the classiest of dishes is Prawn Poori. This isn’t a difficult
recipe, none of them are, but it’s impressive. Pooris are deep-fried
breads that are rich and flaky. The prawns are succulent with a hint of
heat from green chilli. I guarantee that you’ll make this often. It’s
smart comfort food.
Easy Indian Cookbook is a marvellous introduction to Indian cooking. An
attractive book that would make a great gift for anyone who wants to
try their hand at the cuisine we love so much.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Indian Cookbook
Author: Manju Malhi
Published by: Duncan Baird Publishers Ltd.
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-184483-583-6
India Color – Spirit, Tradition,
and Style
Can there be a land that has given more to style than
India? I admit I have a bias but it is evident that we in the West
and particularly in Britain have long embraced all things Indian.
Melba Levick is the photographer for India Color. She has several
other books under her belt... well, almost 50! She specialises in
travel, architecture, gardens and design and all of those are featured
in this volume to good effect. Melba has the practised eye of one able
to get that shot that tells the whole story, that second of expression
or movement that conveys so much. The text by Mitchell Crites and Amita
Nanji gives context to Melba’s marvellous photographs and elevates this
book from a coffee table curio to a sumptuous travelogue.
This isn’t a 21st century phenomenon. This is a love affair that has
endured for centuries. Victorian ladies spent chilly evenings swathed
in Indian shawls. Indian fabrics were a mainstay at the celebrated
Liberty’s store in London, and Indian paintings have adorned many a
European wall. It’s that combination of design and colour that has
remained traditional and uniquely contemporary.
India Color is a marvellous showcase for those elements that are
familiar yet still exotic. A shop selling nothing but bright bangles
carefully arranged by colour giving the impression of shelves stocked
with glinting rainbows. Trays of silver armlets which need no precious
stones to create a sense of continuity and cultural identity, each
piece being of traditional and regional design.
India Color touches on so many aspects of Indian life and all of them
are overlaid with brilliance. Toys, mirrors, musical instruments,
ceramics, carved stone and wood are all are here in abundance but so
are turbans and saris, and the people themselves - they are the most
vibrant.
Not many countries decorate the livestock as well as does India. An
elephant presents a nice big canvas and looks spectacular with painted
ears, head and trunk, and what could be more evocative of the real
India. A country successfully reaching for modernity whilst maintaining
a grip on all that is amazing from the past. Long may it continue.
India Color is just a glimpse of the tapestry and a lovely glimpse at
that.
Asian book review: India Color – Spirit, Tradition, and Style
Authors: Mitchell Crites and Amita Nanji
Photography by: Melba Levick
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: £ 17.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-5316-3
Rajasthan – Lonely
Planet
This might be your first big trip and the success of that
adventure might well lay in preparation and planning.
You’ll want to be informed of things to avoid and others not to be
missed. Rajasthan – Lonely Planet is an ideal tool to supply some
travel needs. You’ll want to get the most from this colourful region of
India. Rajasthan – Lonely Planet
So why would you want to go to Rajasthan? Well, why wouldn’t you? It’s
a desert land of forts and palaces. Why do I say it’s colourful? The
people have a love of all things vibrant to contrast the immense areas
of barren land, and that land is the size of Germany!
Lonely Planet have years of experience (they have been around since
1973) and their guidebooks are some of the best. They have expert
researchers who share their advice. They don’t just steer you to the
most celebrated of tourist spots (although you won’t want to miss the
Taj Mahal), they will point you to Sam’s Cafe for a sit down and a nice
cup of chai. You’ll be confident about venturing a little way of the
well-trodden trail because the man from Lonely Planet has been there
before you.
Read “Getting Started” before you get started. It states the obvious
but the obvious is often the first thing that is overlooked. My sister
forgot her passport and had to hide under a coach seat to cross the
border from France to Belgium. There is a handy tip about taking a
torch with a headband, and a universal sink plug. This is essential kit
even when planning a trip to Rome!
It’s a good idea to have some notion of what you want to see when you
get to Rajasthan. Lonely Planet has suggested three classic routes to
consider. The Golden Triangle of just over 700km which will swing you
by Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Maharaja Circuit (that’s the one for me) is
a loop of 2000km incorporating The Golden Triangle but then takes in
forts and palaces in central Rajasthan. A Month-Long Sojourn is 2500km
and allows you to delve into the spiritual heart of Rajasthan, its less
well-known palaces and spectacular wild life. Truly a tip of a lifetime.
Lonely Planet has stuffed this volume with everything for the
independent traveller. You’ll be able to choose restaurants and hotels
to suit your budget. You’ll be able to order a meal, chat to the waiter
(OK, a very short conversation), and ask for the bill, in Hindi. You’ll
find your way around the extensive public transport system. Buy this
guide in good time and start to plan your dream.
Asian book review: Rajasthan – Lonely Planet
Authors: Lindsay Brown and Amelia Thomas
Published by: Lonely Planet
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-690-8
Anjum's New Indian
Anjum Anand has a very popular second BBC TV series called
Indian Food Made Easy, and this volume contains recipes
from that series. Her last book called Food Made Easy focused
on dishes from the first debut series. That book was an instant best
seller and was one of the top 10 cookbooks for 2007. This book,
however, introduces regional Indian cooking.
This young woman is attractive, smiley and vivacious. She has taught
many culinarily-impaired Brits how to cook authentic Indian food. Her
series is targeted towards those who are interested in family cooking
rather than restaurant fare that is often unrecognisable from original
dishes.
Although New Indian explores regional cuisine, the chapters are divided
by food type rather than geography. There are chapters on Light Meals
and Snacks, then on to meats and vegetables, Beans and Lentils
etc, to Desserts. Anjum starts with Before You Start which gives advice
on the use of ingredients in the Indian kitchen.
The recipes are lovely and for the most part simple. The accompanying
photographs by Vanessa Courtier are beautiful and help to give this
volume a light modern feel. Anjum gives guidance on buying produce and
spices for each dish. You’ll know what to ask for in an Asian
supermarket.
Many Indians eat no meat at all so it’s no surprise to find so many
vegetarian dishes. Goan Spiced Aubergine is easy and would be a great
side-dish to fried fish. Stir-fried Peas could be used in the same way
or as a filling for samosa, making a lighter snack than those with the
more usual potato and pea stuffing.
Dal of many kinds is eaten by most Indians every day. It’s comfort food
of the highest order and healthy, which is more than you can say for
most dishes we crave. Tarka Dal will be familiar to those who frequent
Indian restaurants. If you enjoy the dal from the local takeaway you
will love the lighter home-made version and it will be a lot cheaper!
Black-eyed Pea Curry is hearty and warming. It only takes 30 minutes if
you use tins of black-eyed peas. That’s almost faster than the takeaway.
You’ll need something to eat with your curry or dal and a favourite is
Roti or Chapatti. I have had a lesson from a professional so I can tell
you it’s far easier than you would imagine to make puffy and soft
breads in just a few minutes. Anjum takes the mystery out of the
process so you’ll be able to present fresh, straight-from-the-pan roti
along with an aromatic Indian meal for your guests. How smart is that?
Anjum has penned a book that reflects our desire to eat Indian food
that would be recognised by Indians. We want healthy, light and
delicious dishes with the minimum of oil but still full of flavour. A
great introduction to Indian regional cooking with a contemporary feel.
Asian cookbook review: Anjum’s New Indian
Author: Anjum Anand
Published by: Quadrille Publishing
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84400-616-8
Sushi
It’s healthy food. It’s an art form. It’s impressive, and
it’s iconic. People either love it or refuse to try it. Its skill lays
in assembly rather than cooking. Sushi is special.
Vickie Liley is versatile to say the least. She is a recipe writer,
food stylist and photographer. She is responsible for the majority of
the pictures in this book and they are lovely. She has appeared on TV
and radio. She has penned several other books including Asian Cooking
Companion, The Complete Book of Hot and Spicy Cooking, and Simple and
Delicious Dim Sum, all from Apple Press.
Sushi is becoming more popular in Britain with many supermarkets
selling plastic-wrapped versions. It looks very nice and it’s probably
better for you than a fat-rich sandwich or sausage roll. But sushi is
all about freshness so why not make it yourself. It’s cheaper than
shop-bought and you’ll notice the difference.
As I have said, it’s not complicated cooking but there are some skills
to perfect. This book provides you with everything you’ll need to
select the few items of necessary equipment and the ingredients. There
are practical step-by-step pictures by Alan Benson that will take the
fear out of the process.
In truth it’s several processes depending on the type of sushi, but
you’ll soon master them and then it’s on to the recipes or more
accurately the fillings. Vickie has an attractive selection of classic
sushi that might be familiar to some of you. There are others that are
equally authentic but new to many. Sushi isn’t all about raw fish. You
will find plenty of vegetarian sushi and we won’t know if you make your
own sushi filled with Marmite or strawberries. You can mix and match
combinations of fillings and shapes.
The chapters include Thin-rolled Sushi, Thick-rolled Sushi, Inside-out
Sushi, Hand-rolled Sushi and Stuffed Sushi. There is also a section on
traditional soup to start your Japanese meal. Sushi etiquette is also
discussed as well as information on appropriate drinks.
Vickie Liley illustrates a gorgeous array of delicious fresh sushi that
will be a great introduction to sushi-rolling for the novice, and give
inspiration to the more proficient. Sushi is also an ideal medium tfor
introducing kids to food preparation. I have a young friend (I don’t
insult him by calling him a kid) who mastered the art in just an
evening. He presented us with a dazzling display of fish and vegetable
sushi for the New Year. This book is an ideal gift for anyone
interested in a stylish and guilt-free dining experience. Great value
for money.
Asian cookbook review: Sushi
Author: Vickie Liley
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-252-2
Contemporary Indian
Cuisine
This is a stunner! Contemporary Indian Cuisine has the
light, airy, modern feel of a French Nouvelle Cuisine
cookbook but still manages to convey the richness of sub-continental
food. Photographer Greg Elms has presented Anil’s food in a clean-cut,
crisp manner which is sometimes almost clinical but always attractive.
Yes, it’s modern but it’s not fusion, which in my humble opinion seldom
works.
I confess that I had not heard of the author Anil Ashokan but that
should not be considered as a reflection of the man’s skill. My only
excuse is that he exercises those aforementioned skills in Sydney,
Australia and that is about as far from London as you can get. Anil
trained at the much celebrated Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai and has worked
in several 5-star restaurants around India. He has found further
success with his latest venture, Qmin in Sydney.
Anil Ashokan isn’t an Asian Naked Chef but you might say he is stripped
down to the essentials. His recipes are authentic but he is mindful of
the time constraints of working folks. He gives you permission to use
garlic and ginger pastes from the store, and he doesn’t demand that you
crush whole spices with a stone; a coffee grinder will do.
There are 120 or so recipes which will inspire you. They are
comfortingly simple to prepare and are ideal for those who are new to
preparing Indian food. Anil even offers advice on menus so you’ll have
an idea of what to serve with your Eggplant Lucknow Style. Equally a
well-practised home cook will find some unfamiliar dishes and some
innovations.
Lamb is a popular meat in India and it’s shown to good advantage with
Daalcha (Lentils with Lamb). It’s a winning combination and a good
choice for these days of cost cutting. Any lamb suitable for slow
cooking will work well in this recipe. If you want to push the boat out
then Raan-e-Khyber (Braised Whole Leg of Lamb) is always impressive for
a special meal for guests.
Do Kism Ke Murg Ki Seekh (Tandoori Chicken Two Ways) will appeal to the
lovers of familiar restaurant-style Chicken Tikka Masala. This recipe
is a definite improvement on that “Calcutta Curry House” standard of
luminous, over-sauced poultry. This dish is of succulent chunks of
moist chicken with two separately served sauces. Tandoori Salad and an
Indian bread are all you’ll need to complete this light meal or starter.
Contemporary Indian Cuisine offers one of the largest chapters on
Indian desserts that I have come across. Anil's recipe for a
fruit-filled samosa is so simple that it wins a medal for “Why Didn’t I
Think of That First”. Anjeer Aur Akhrot Ki Kulfi is traditional Indian
ice cream with figs and walnuts. Anil gives two versions so even those
of us without an ice cream maker can still enjoy this frozen treat.
Contemporary Indian Cuisine deserves to be popular. Anil Ashokan has
penned a book that is a marvellous showcase for Qmin and is also a
remarkable volume for anyone with a love of fine Indian food. A delight!
Asian cookbook review: Contemporary Indian Cuisine
Author: Anil Ashokan
Publisher: Apple Press
Price: 14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-262-1
Shanghai City
Guide – Lonely Planet
Lonely Planet produces some of the most relied-upon and
trusted guides around. The company started in a
small way in 1972. Tony and Maureen Wheeler published the first Lonely
Planet guide to meet the needs of an increasingly mobile and
ever-curious population. Lonely Planet is now the largest independent
travel publisher in the world. These books have been used and abused by
travellers who choose the less travelled road and those who want to get
the best out of the journey.
Shanghai is a unique city that has embodied elements of both East and
West for centuries. It had a reputation in the 1930s as a den of vice
with gang warfare, drugs, jazz and prostitution. Things have changed
and Shanghai is now a mecca for those looking for business
opportunities in the newly prosperous China, but there are still a few
ladies of the night if you look for them... and I am sure you’ll do no
such thing!
There is plenty to keep you occupied in Shanghai and Lonely Planet
offers a handy Itinerary Builder. This allows you, at a glance, to find
sights, shopping, eating, drinking and entertainment in any of the
eight neighbourhoods showcased. The Bund offers The Shanghai Museum,
West Nanjing Road finds the Jade Buddha Temple, and Pudong has the
China Sex Culture Museum (I only went in to ask directions to the
opticians, Mum). If you can’t spend much time in the city then this
table will give a good overview.
Any city can be exhausting so it’s good to consider out-of-town
excursions, and Lonely Planet suggests four. Hangzhou has West Lake
with walks and boat trips to calm you after days of pounding the
pavements. Suzhou will tempt you with the shade of its gardens and the
Silk Museum. The Canal Towns are picturesque with some original Ming
and Qing architecture with those bridges that you’ll no doubt remember
from your Granny’s willow pattern plates. Moganshan is forested with
iconic bamboo, pine and juniper and is always cooler than the city.
Shopping is a major part of any trip and there will be plenty of retail
therapy opportunities. Good buys include silk and tailored clothes.
Pearls can be reasonable but you have to be able to spot the fake.
(Don’t the real ones dissolve in Coke? But the test is a bit
counterproductive.) There are bargains to be had in home
furnishings in most department stores...and IKEA!
Finding food in Shanghai will never be a problem. Eating is a popular
pastime and there are several streets devoted to restaurants. Shopping
Malls have food halls and you shouldn’t be a snob by avoiding chain
restaurants as they are good value and used by tourists and locals
alike.
Lonely Planet has one of the best Shanghai guides available, and the
pull-out map will fit nicely in your pocket. This book will direct you
to a bed, a meal, a bar, some fun and hopefully new friends and
long-lasting memories of a fascinating city.
Asian book review: Shanghai City Guide
Punlished by: Lonely Planet
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-668-7
Korea – Lonely Planet
I know for sure that not many of you, my dear readers,
have visited Korea. It’s a land less explored by
tourists than its near neighbours China and Japan, but it has so much
to offer the traveller. Korean history is rich and turbulent, its food
unique and its culture proud.
Lonely Planet presents a guide that is thoroughly researched and with
the independent traveller in mind. It starts with an overview to help
you make up your mind that you need to go. It’s a vibrant country and
Seoul, the capital, has a reputation as the city that never stops.
There are late-night markets, early-morning cinemas and 24-hour baths –
now that’s a long bath!
The Korean countryside is peppered with charming villages, temples,
rice paddies and National Parks. You might find a Korean phrase book to
be an advantage. It’s less likely you’ll find an English speaker away
from the larger cities but that’s part of the adventure. The whole of
South Korea is small enough to fly across in an hour so you’ll never be
too lost.
Read the “Don’t Leave Home Without...” section before you leave. Check
your socks as you’ll need to take off your shoes to visit private
homes, traditional restaurants and religious buildings. You don’t want
to let yourself down by showing your toes through holes. Practise
parading naked in front of strangers so that you’ll not be embarrassed
when taking a communal bath.
Lonely Planet has designed 5 South Korean and 1 North Korean itinerary
for you. Classic Routes takes 10 days and covers 750km. This takes you
from Seoul in the North to Busan in the south with a trip to the
volcanic island of Ulleungdo on the way.
Honeymoon Island is a 1 week, 300km trip around Jejudo. They will let
you onto the island even if you are not on honeymoon but this resort
has a romantic reputation. Go scuba diving and walk along beaches at
sunset (aaahh), visit waterfalls and take in an amazing Chinese acrobat
show.
Korea is a conservative country and women can sometimes find themselves
in difficulties. The advice here is the same as for most destinations:
dress in a modest fashion, act with dignity and wear a big hat if you
have blonde hair – men might ask if you are a Russian prostitute!
People are, on the whole, pleasant so don’t be put off.
Korea – Lonely Planet is a guide that will steer you away from problems
but will give you sufficient advice for you to be able to plan your
ideal trip and to take advantage of all that Korea has to offer. It’s
not quite China and it’s not quite Japan but it’s very definitely a
Korea in its own right.
Asian book review: Korea
Published by: Lonely Planet
Price: £15.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-558-1
India
If you are about to go off to India then buy this book.
Buy this book and read the first 80 or so pages before you pack, and
then dip into relevant chapters by destination. You will be glad you
did.
Why read the first 80 pages first? Well, it’s not just because they are
at the beginning but because they cover important issues like packing
(that’s why I said, to read this before packing), water purification,
hazards of road travel and money matters (yes, it does!)
The back of the book is also, in my opinion, a “must read sooner rather
than later”, it being Background and Language. The Background chapter
covers history, culture, religion and geography. Language covers, well,
language! It makes a good impression if you can say “thank you” in
Hindi.
This is such a comprehensive book and it covers every place you would
want to go and a few that you wouldn’t. Let’s look at one area and
marvel at the thoroughness of this volume. Stick a pin in the map, dear
reader, and I’ll tell you what the guide says about that location...
Kerala, nice choice! Pages 887 to 959. We start with a map of the
subcontinent and Kerala highlighted, a list of contents for this
chapter and the special Footprint Features which include items like
Don’t Miss, Kerala’s Social Underbelly, Body Language, The Backwaters,
and The Modern Mass Pilgrimage. Other regions have appropriate
Footprint Features, one of the many elements that put these guides
ahead of the others.
The smallest of towns is listed and there is advice on travel, sights,
places to stay (prices indicated), eating (don’t eat the buffet),
shopping and tours. I don’t think anything has been left to chance.
Every detail has been well researched. In Munnar, for instance, you can
visit the Tata Tea Museum, or how about the Elephant Yard in Guruvayur?
The maps are first class and there are lots of them, from regional maps
to city street maps. The transport information is the best I have come
across in this type of guidebook and the detail is amazing, giving bus
routes and frequency, motorcycle hire websites and addresses, rickshaw
and taxi rates and train information. The Footprint Guides are designed
with the independent traveller in mind, and they don’t assume that you
are loaded with cash.
Each area has its own Directory, a comprehensive list of handy
addresses....like a chemist. All guides tell you where to post a
letter (your mum will be lucky if she gets a postcard), but you need to
know where to go if you get sick or, more important, if you need to
check your email! It’s all in this guide.
This is your “Big Trip” and you want to get as much out of it as
possible. You only want to carry one book so let this be the one.
Asian book review: India
Authors: Annie Dare and David Stott
Published by: Footprint
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978 1 906098 05 6
Healthy Indian Cooking for
Diabetes
Now, don’t just scroll to the next review! Have a read and
understand that this isn’t a book for people with diabetes but a book for all of
us. We are all at risk from diet-related illness but there is no need to deprive
ourselves of good and flavourful food. Azmina Govindji
is a registered dietitian and the first 45 pages of this book are packed with
dietary information, advice about complementary and alternative therapies,
weight management and healthy cooking tips. Even these introductory pages have
gorgeous pictures. This is, after all a recipe book and not a medical
encyclopaedia.
I didn’t know that just being South Indian can put you at
risk of diabetes, leading to further complications like heart disease. Whilst
it’s not nice to hear, it’s better to know and make a few changes to your
lifestyle to keep yourself well.
How often have I heard my Western
friends say that they don’t cook Indian food because it’s too oily or too rich?
Well, this is the book for you - launch yourself on a new and healthy culinary
experience. Stock up on a few Indian spices and dry goods and have a go. It’s
easy.
Indian food is a big part of my diet so I am very happy to find
some lighter alternatives to some traditional favourites. Sanjeev Kapoor is
India’s leading chef and winner of culinary awards so his recipes are bound to
be delicious.
Dehi Methi Murgh (yogurt chicken with fresh fenugreek) is
lovely and has no fat. You wouldn’t know it as the marinade gives a richness
that is more associated with oil. It’s the “mouth feel” that tricks us into
thinking that there must be some ghee in this recipe.
The recipe for
Chicken Biryani is exceptional but it has no oil. The spices create a rich and
full flavour so I would advise that you stick to the recipe and don’t cut down
on the spice. The seasonings are what make these dishes work.
Dal is
something I could eat for every meal....at least for a while. It’s Indian
comfort food served with some breads or rice. Mixed Dal uses very little oil and
the little oil that is used is olive oil. Yes, it’s a surprise but olive oil is
used to replace the heavier ghee and traditional Indian oils in this
book.
My favourite recipe is Mutton Dhansaak (lamb and lentil stew). If
you have ordered this in an Indian restaurant then you would have noticed that
it’s sometimes a heavy dish. Healthy Indian Cooking presents us with a less oily
alternative. The rich quality comes from the texture of the sauce rather than
the fat.
You don’t need to be Indian to enjoy this book. Use these
recipes and you will make exotic food without the guilt. Take care of yourself
but enjoy eating well.
Asian cookbook review:
Healthy Indian Cooking for
Diabetes
Authors: Azmina Govindji, Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Kyle
Cathie
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-789-2
The Indian Kitchen
The Indian
Kitchen by Monisha Bharadwaj is, for me at least, a must-have Indian cookbook.
To call it just a “cookbook” somehow diminishes its value. It’s a lush, rich
encyclopaedia of ingredients common to kitchens on the subcontinent.
I am a fairly well
practised preparer of Indian food but there were even a few surprises for me. I
began by just flicking through the pages and have finished by reading it from
cover to cover in almost one sitting. It’s a book that is difficult to put down
once opened.
The introduction is poetic: “...the kitchen can be the most
fascinating room in an Indian home. Here, iridescent spices sparkle alongside
huge boxes of Himalayan snow-washed rice, earthy lentils accentuate plump, dry
fruits and rich, musky nuts sit next to jars of pearly sago and subja seeds.”
You will love this book even if you had never tasted curry and didn’t intend
to!
Each ingredient is listed by type. We start with From the Spice Box
and continue to From the Grinding Stone and there are several other chapters all
with equally evocative names.
The individual spices, seeds, nuts, grains
etc. each have a general description and have paragraphs called Appearance and
Taste, Buying and Storing, Culinary Uses, and then the recipes. Some items even
have Medical Uses which will be of particular interest to anyone who prefers the
natural approach to health care.
The photography is wonderful and the
recipes are clear. It’s written in such a way as to hold your hand and give a
bit of confidence, not only to the inexperienced cook but also to those of us
with a few Biryanis under our belts who are trying something
different.
Take an ordinary ingredient like an onion. Well, it’s several
different types of fresh onions and powdered and flaked onions. There is a
paragraph on how it grows, lots of lovely photographs and a couple of recipes.
Onion Bhaji is a popular starter in Indian restaurants but they are easy to make
at home and this recipe is particularly interesting as it has a different
seasoning from my usual recipe. I am sure Monisha’s is an authentic version and
my mouth is already watering at the prospect.
Indian bean dishes are
comforting and delicious but seldom seen at the local “Calcutta Curry House”.
Lobhia Ki Subzi (Spicy Black-eyed Beans) is gorgeous and I would have mine with
some Indian bread. It’s simple to make and only has 3 tablespoons of oil for a
dish for four people.
I can’t praise this book highly enough. I could
say more but the best idea would be to go and buy a copy. Don’t even think of
asking if you can borrow mine!
Asian cookbook review:
The Indian Kitchen
Author:
Monisha Bharadwaj www.cookingwithmonisha.com
Published
by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-659-8
India Food and Cooking - Hardback
Pat
Chapman is famous among Anglo curry enthusiasts as a passionate Indian food
lover and the man who started the Curry Club over 20 years ago. Its members now
number 15000 so there is evidently support for Pat’s take on food of the
subcontinent.
This is a hefty
volume with the first 60-odd pages devoted to the history of India and the
evolution of its food, tools and equipment, and basic preparation. He goes into
great detail about the spices before we reach the recipes. His research is
obviously thorough and adds a lot to the overall quality of the
book.
There are a great many “Modern Chef’s Recipes”, with Spiced Stuffed
Peppers being the offering from London chef Pital Gopal. Creamy Brown Lentils is
a dish based on a recipe from London restaurateur Camilia Panjabi. Beef Tomatoes
stuffed with gorgonzola is another chef recipe which is obviously a bit of a
fusion dish.
Most of the recipes are said to be authentic and Pat give
the region from where these originate. They are a delicious bunch and cover
everything from starters through meats and vegetables to drinks. There is even
an interesting item about the famous Bombay Duck, which I haven’t seen for
years. It’s not a duck at all but rather an eel-shaped fish that is filleted and
dried and used as a condiment.
My favourite recipe would have to be the
Raan, Aromatic Roast Lamb. This is succulent leg of lamb, and the meat just
falls from the bone. It’s savoury and delicious and easy to make. You can
marinate the lamb for up to 60 hours (be warned, your fridge will smell of spice
for all those 60 hours) and then just roast for 3 hours. It’s an ideal Sunday
meal for a crowd.
Kulfi, Indian ice cream, makes a welcome end to any
spicy meal and you don’t need to invest in an ice cream maker. Pat lists several
varieties all using the basic recipe but with the additions of either chocolate,
pistachio, mango or almonds. Yum!
The Chutney and Pickle chapter has
Pat’s wife’s Sweet and Hot Tomato Chutney. It’s a clear chutney that looks
attractive and bright. The traditional Lime Pickle would be the one for me and
you can also use the same recipe to create a lemon pickle.
India Food
and Cooking would be a good choice for anyone wanting to know a lot more about
Indian food and history. There is plenty of reading, marvellous pictures and
recipes to make your mouth water.
Asian cookbook review:
India Food and
Cooking
Author: Pat Chapman
Published by: New Holland
Price:
£19.99
ISBN 978-184537-619-2
Bamboo – A Journey with
Chinese Food
Mr. and Mrs. Hammond, Sally and Gordon that is, have
produced quite one of the most sumptuous books around. Each turn of the page
brings a new visual delight. Sally is an author and restaurant reviewer and has
written several food and travel books. Gordon is an award-winning
photographer, so the combination was bound to come up with something special.
There are lots of recipes but this is also a stunning
travelogue. There is plenty of information and tips for anyone planning a foodie
holiday to China. Each region has a chapter which presents popular dishes,
perhaps an item about a herb or spice, and some history.
The writing is
light-hearted and readable but the research has obviously been thorough. There
are amusing items such as “A common wedding present in China is a set of
Chopsticks. Not only is this practical, but the Chinese word for Chopsticks
sounds the same as “soon son.”
The recipes are lovely and as varied as
the landscape and the people of this huge country. Sally has thoughtfully
included an index of dishes by course so it’s easy to browse and make a menu
from several regions. All the recipes are simple to follow and all the
ingredients will be easy to find in your local high street, with perhaps a trip
to your nearest Chinese grocery store.
There are spicy dishes from
Szechuan, rich in chillies, ginger, garlic and the famous Szechuan peppercorns,
the numbing effect of which gave Sally a fright when she first encountered them.
Shanghai cuisine is sweet and saucy. Mongolian Hot Pot from the Northern region
is a mixed fondue that makes a spectacular but easy meal for friends. Almost
every taste is represented in a colourful and fascinating way.
Every food
shot is marvellous and the photographs of China and its people are enchanting.
Even if you hate cooking you will still find this book a work of art. I am sure
the Chinese tourist board could not have done a better job, and it’s enough to
persuade anyone that the next big trip has got to be a food-finding package to
China.
Asian cookbook review:
Bamboo – A Journey with Chinese Food
Author: Sally
Hammond
Photographs: Gordon Hammond
Published by: New Holland
Publishers
Price: £16.99
ISBN 9781741105698
Feeding the Gods
You know by now that I
have a love of all things subcontinental so it’s no surprise that I read and
enjoyed Feeding the Gods (Memories of Food and Culture in Bengal). Chitrita
Banerji has written a charming and very personal reflection on her life and the
spiritual part that food has played in it.
It is fair to say that this
book is a woman’s book but it is as far removed from “chick lit” as you can get.
It deals with serious issues of religious conflict and prejudice in a
non-judgemental fashion and allows us to understand a little of the complexities
of Bengali society. There was so much that I didn’t know and so many
surprises.
Chitrita marvellously contrasts festivals in her homeland with
her first Christmas in the US... “As with eating, celebration too is marked [in
Bengal] not by restraint, but by boundless enthusiasm. The autumn festivities
are about inclusion and community participation.” But in the US “I anticipated
the same kind of energy, laughter, and fragrance that festivals had always meant
to me. Instead I found myself inhabiting a ghost town ...Christmas was a very
private event behind closed doors ...merrymaking and eating were off-limits to
all but the inner circle.”
The saddest but, in some ways, the most
fascinating part of the book is the chapter called What Bengali Widows Cannot
Eat. These ladies suffer not only bereavement but also a change of wardrobe and
diet. They can no longer eat meat and fish, and may only wear white. We can
find similar traditions (with regard to attire) with the black-clad elderly
ladies of southern Spain, Greece and Italy. Same sentiment, different
colour.
Chitrita has obviously had a warm and loving family who have
taught her how to pay respects to her Gods in the time-honoured way. Her writing
is poetic and her words evoke rituals, colour and tastes of Bengal. Feeding the
Gods gives a unique insight into the part played by food in spirituality. Our
different ethnic origins don’t preclude us from understanding her sense of
tradition and heritage. We might think that Chitrita Banerji is writing about
food, but she is writing about continuity, ties and humanity. And that’s all of
us!
Asian book review: Feeding the Gods
Author: Chitrita Banerji
Published
by: Berg
Price: £14.99
ISBN 190542210-5
A Taste of China
A Taste of China is
one of Ken Hom’s first books and probably one of the best. It’s now back in
print and I would urge anyone who has an interest in China and its food to buy a
copy. This is
described as the definitive guide to regional cooking and it is indeed that, but
it’s also a very personal and charming journey. Ken visits his family and an
ancestral shrine with his mother for the first time, and finds that he is very
much at home. It’s Ken’s relationship with the Chinese people that has allowed
him to write this unique book.
Ken Hom was one of the first and is still
one of the most respected Chinese food writers and was the first to make Chinese
food truly accessible to the British home cook. His quiet reserve and his
evident passion endeared him to millions. This book reflects just that same
passion and pride.
Some of the dishes will be quite familiar to lovers
of Chinese food and they are classics. Ken has included a number of family
recipes and that adds so much to the quality of this volume. Every single recipe
has a history or anecdote to give some background to the dish and to fire the
imagination. This is a book to read before you even consider putting a hand on a
wok, and could almost be part of an autobiography.
There is not much here
for which you would need a trip to Chinatown. All the ingredients are now quite
common in any average UK high street with an Asian supermarket. It’s the
combinations of flavours that make these dishes something special. There is
nothing taxing about the cooking methods but all these recipes are authentic,
diverse and delicious. There are examples of street food, health-reviving
recipes, restaurant dishes, and city and country cooking.
One of my
favourite dishes for a quick meal is Dan Dan Mian (Spicy Sichuan Noodles). It’s
flavourful, fragrant and if you try it once I promise you will make it often. It
represents a typical spicy dish of the region of Sichuan but it’s also typical
of Ken’s recipes, being simple to make but giving delicious results.
This
is one of those “must have” cookbooks. It has already stood the test of time and
seems as fresh and absorbing as it did when first published. It’s a fascinating
story of a chef’s homecoming and a wonderful introduction to the rich tapestry
of Chinese food.
Asian cookbook review: A Taste of China
Author: Ken
Hom
Published by: Pavilion Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 1-86205-707-9
Stylish Indian in
Minutes
Monisha Bharadwaj has a talent (in fact she has many, she is
also a classical Indian dancer and an educator) for writing books that are
little works of art. There are over 140 recipes in Stylish Indian in Minutes and
all of them are mouth-watering and yet simple to make.
This volume just
oozes class. Gus Filgate is one of the best photographers around and his
stunning pictures are contrasted marvellously by black and white shots of
striking Indian ladies and gentlemen at cocktail parties and
dinners.
Monisha had found the preparation of authentic Indian food in
the UK to be something of a challenge for her British friends. Her professional
training had equipped her to produce classic dishes which were popular with
everyone, but she wanted to develop recipes that gave the sense of smart home
cooking to the British audience. The Indian cookbooks Monisha found in the UK
presented Indian food as complicated, over-exotic and only to be tackled by
those with endless time and the support of several assistants!
Her skill
allowed Monisha to ditch the European-targeted Indian cookbooks and devise her
own techniques to provide truly authentic dishes, the sort that are made by
truly authentic Indians! All of the ingredients used in Stylish
Indian in Minutes are true to the traditional concept but they are all readily
available in the UK.
Obviously there are dishes from all
over India that have lists of ingredients as long as your arm, but Stylish
Indian offers delicious recipes that will not fill you with terror. You won’t
need to attend culinary school in Mumbai to achieve lovely results.
The
recipes are, as ever, superb and easy to follow and it’s difficult to pick my
favourites. There is so much here that would be ideal for both vegetarians and
certified carnivores. Kali Mirch Murg (Chicken Curry with Black Pepper) uses
spices that you will already have in your larder to produce a succulent and
flavourful dish in no time at all (don’t you just love that?). Maach Paturi
(Bengali Fish in Mustard Sauce) is equally simple and would be a smashing dinner
party dish or even, in my case, a nice little meal on Wednesday!
Stylish
Indian in Minutes is well up to the standard of Monisha’s other books. The food
is exceptional but accessible with fresh healthy flavours. It’s an ideal book
for entertaining but you won’t want to wait for your friends to pay a visit,
you’ll buy the ingredients on the way home from the bookshop!
Asian cookbook review:
Stylish Indian in Minutes
Author: Monisha Bharadwaj www.cookingwithmonisha.com
Published
by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-458-0
The Rough Guide to China
It’s no
good thinking you’ll buy a guide book when you get there, or get by with a bit
of assistance from other travellers. That just does not work! If your fellow
voyagers are any help at all it will probably be because they have A Rough Guide
in the backpack.
You need to plan your trip and take advice from the
experts. They have no axe to grind and nothing to gain by sending you to this
particular museum or those particular restaurants. They have a long-standing
reputation as one of the best travel guide companies around. Their guides are
not one bit rough and you’ll be glad!
The Rough Guide to China is a
chunky volume as you would expect. It’s a big country after all! This is the
essential guide that you’ll need first to plan your trip and then to enjoy it.
It’s full of relevant information and answers all your questions about customs,
food, sights and...Oh, yeah, night life. You’ll stay out of trouble (don’t worry
mum, I’m not a kid), healthy (but I thought it was just a bit of a rash), eat
REAL Chinese food (can I have a fork please?) and you’ll get to see the most
fascinating places. You have come a long way and you don’t want to miss
anything.
Those nice people at Rough Guides seem to have thought of
everything. They lead you through the basics from vaccinations (you don’t need
any) to visas, from weather to wildlife. There are the things to avoid (drugs,
ladies of easy virtue, being the target of any kind of scam, and policemen), and
things that you should know to make your trip the most memorable for all the
right reasons.
The Rough Guide to China is easy to use and it’s divided
into regions to help you plan your travel. So let’s start with Beijing. Your
Olympic gold medal is on its way back home with the rest of the team but you
plan to stay for a while. The information on where to go, what to see and where
to stay is well researched. There is a detailed street map, and transport
information which even tells you where the ticket offices are. There’s a subway
map and a list of bus routes. The accommodation section is comprehensive with
prices indicated.
There are pages and pages of places to go and things
to do. All the places of interest are listed with the English name, the name in
Chinese characters and pronunciation so you can ask when you get lost. People
will appreciate you being able to exchange a few words in Chinese.
I
expect you’ll want to eat at some point during your trip! China is, after all,
home to some of the best food in the world. The list of restaurants is
impressive and you’ll even find street food, as well as food courts in shopping
malls. You’ll be able to ask for common dishes IN CHINESE!
Talking of
shopping, that has got to be high on the agenda for a lot of people. The Rough
Guide to China tells you all you need to know about where to buy some jade at a
reasonable price, clothes (as long as you are the size of an average Chinese),
antiques and souvenirs ranging from tacky to tolerable. This book could save you
time and money.
A trip to the exotic east isn’t just like a day trip to
Calais. It’s good to have a bit of advice to give you confidence. Read The Rough
Guide to China before you go and start dreaming!
Asian book review:
The Rough Guide
to China
Author: David Leffman, Simon Lewis
Published by: Rough
Guides
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-84353-872-1
China to Chinatown
There can’t be
a single town in the UK or North America that can’t boast at least a Chinese
takeaway or a brace or two of Chinese restaurants, but have you ever wondered
why it’s Chinese food that is so ubiquitous and not, say, Malay or Turkish?
J.A.G.
Roberts has written China to Chinatown – Chinese Food in the West and it’s a
book that goes some way towards charting the history of our (that is, western)
relationship with those delicious dishes that have been loved and loathed in
turn over the last couple of hundred years.
Eighteenth and nineteenth
century Europeans living in China were very reluctant to even try Chinese food.
It was often more of a reflection of social prejudice than dislike for a cuisine
they knew nothing about. It’s true that there were (and still are) a few
challenging dishes. The prospect of eating dogs was, and still is, rather
distasteful to Europeans who are more comfortable eating a cute fluffy lamb or
bunny.
Chinese food became more popular to westerners when they had the
opportunity to eat Chinese food on home territory. Some of the first restaurants
frequented by Europeans were in California where there was a sizable Chinese
population, and having your own Chinese chef became a status symbol.
There have been various “Chinatowns” around Britain for a considerable
time. These were not places that most of the indigenous population would
frequent. They were considered as dens of vice with laundries, and the few
eateries catered to the Chinese, with no concessions to western tastes.
These last decades have see our eating habits change, and now Chinese
food is no longer considered strange or fear-provoking. “Instant” Chinese food
was available in supermarkets in the 70s and fish and chip shops run by Chinese
might also sell a spring roll or two.
Ken Hom had a popular TV cooking
series in the 80s and he helped to present Chinese food as delicious, fresh and
different. Most of us have a wok at home and now find Chinese restaurants that
don’t offer European dishes, and these days you’ll have to ask for a fork. We
have come to expect higher standards and are more eager to try authentic
dishes.
The swings in popularity of Chinese food have had more to do with
the politics of the moment rather than culinary preferences. More Chinese have
come to the UK and food is big business. The days of deeply-felt suspicions are
gone and the rumours of cat skins being found in dustbins are now consigned to
the annals of urban myth.
It’s been a fascinating evolution and J.A.G.
Roberts has penned an absorbing account. China to Chinatown probably tells us as
much about our own attitudes as host community as it does about food. A
worthwhile read.
Asian book review:
China to Chinatown
Author: J.A.G
Roberts
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £12.95
ISBN 1-86189-227-6
Korean Cuisine – An
illustrated history
Michael J. Pettid has produced a book that is
destined to become a classic work on the evolution of Korean cuisine. It isn’t a
recipe book although it does have quite a few. It’s a history book and charts
the culinary progress of Korea from ancient times to the present.
It is, as it says,
an illustrated history and those pictures add much to understanding what Korean
food is all about. It has been influenced by China and Japan and, in more recent
times, the West. The cuisine remains, however, unique and is well worth
investigating should you be lucky enough to cross the threshold of a Korean
restaurant.
Table etiquette developed over thousands of years. Each diner
would be presented with a small individual table with the dishes already in
place. Men were often served before women, who would eat in another part of the
house. This practice has largely given way to the Western custom of eating
together at a regular-sized table.
Many Westerners are convinced that
Korean food consists of nothing more than Kimch’i (fermented cabbage) and dog
meat. It’s true that Kimch’i is very popular and just as much these days as
ever, though it isn’t just fermented cabbage but vegetables in general that are
considered Kimch’i. There are hundreds of varieties and this was originally the
food of desperation. As much food as possible would have been preserved to stave
off hunger during the hard winters.
Dog meat is still a ticklish issue
but then we are looking at the subject through European eyes. Perhaps if cows
were fluffy, friendly and kept our feet warm we would all be
vegetarian!
Korean barbecued meats are famous for flavour and succulence,
and the mixed vegetable and rice dishes are healthy and delicious... But a more
recent development in Korean cuisine sounds a bit unlikely and involves tins of
Spam and other processed meats. It’s said that these Military Camp Stews date
from the time of the US presence, when the local population would use surplus
military rations. It’s becoming a restaurant favourite these days!
Korean
eating utensils sum up its place in Asian food culture. Koreans use both chop
sticks and spoons. The spoons are not the same as the Western version, having a
shallower bowl. The chop sticks are unusual in that they are traditionally metal
rather than wood. They are shorter and flatter than Chinese and don’t have
pointed ends like the Japanese chopsticks. This country has adapted and borrowed
from outside and has evolved a varied and different cuisine.
Korean
Cuisine by Michael J. Pettid is a comprehensive and fascinating look at a truly
different food culture.
Asian book review:
Korean Cuisine – An Illustrated
history
Author: Michael J. Pettid
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price:
£22.50
ISBN 978-1-86189-348-2
Culinary Jottings for
Madras
“I should recommend anyone with a taste for Victorian
gastronomic literature to snap him up...His recipes are so meticulous and clear,
that the absolute beginner could follow them, yet at the same time he has much
to teach the experienced cook.” That’s from the great Elizabeth David. Culinary Jottings for
Madras was written by WYVERN who was really Colonel Arthur Robert
Kenney-Herbert. He had a military career in India from 1858 till his retirement
in 1892 and this book is an icon of the time and the place.
He served as
Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General for part of his military service and that
experience evidently gave him the confidence to attempt to transform the
domestic kitchens of the Europeans in India.
It’s hard to imagine those
times of huge dinner parties in sweltering heat with menus that were little
changed from those of a country house in England in mid-winter. The British were
for the most part unwilling to change their culinary habits and must have
suffered for it.
The chapter headings well illustrate the order of
things. Three chapters on Sauces, A Few Nice Pies, Our Curries, and that’s just
in Part 1. Part 2 consists of Thirty Menus – Worked Out In Detail, all those
menus being for four or six people. He continues with For a Little Home Dinner,
comprising for example, soup, fish with a sauce, lamb, mash, aubergine,
blancmange, cheese, dessert and coffee. A nice quiet night in!
WYVERN
saves the best till last with a whole chapter devoted to Our Kitchens in India.
He instructs on everything from the kitchen building to staff management. His
description of the common state of kitchens indicates the reason why so many
Europeans died young!
This is a recognised classic and I can understand
why. It offers a look at a totally different era with attitudes that are long
gone (thank goodness). WYVERN writes well in a style that is Victorian and
charming. It isn’t a book whose recipes you are likely to follow, but you won’t
buy this book to use the recipes. You’ll enjoy the experience of the Raj at its
height and understand why it couldn’t last!
Asian cookbook review:
Culinary Jottings
for Madras
Author: WYVERN
Published by: Prospect Books
Price:
£15.00
ISBN 978-1-903018-53-8
Homestyle Asian
This is a large
format volume with a wealth of photographs by Steve Brown and it’s impressive in
its presentation and content, and it even feels solid!
This is one of a series of Homestyle cookbooks from those
nice people at Murdoch Books and I’d say it’s a winner. We are
talking about the whole of Asia
so the recipes are diverse. Each one is clear with photographs of the finished
dish but also photographic step-by-step instructions and there is nutritional
information for each recipe.
You will already be familiar with the
cooking techniques - stir-frying, steaming, etc - and the ingredients are almost
all to be found in the local supermarket. It’s the combinations of spices and
fresh vegetables or meats that makes Asian cooking so popular. We all want to
eat healthier foods that don’t take ages to cook.
Homestyle Asian covers
everything from soup to salad, curry to dessert. The book is divided by food
rather than country so the chapter on noodles and rice includes Udon Noodles
from Japan, Phad Thai from Thailand, Chinese Fried Rice, Singapore Noodles,
etc.
There are lots of classic recipes from all over Asia: California
Rolls (have you never heard of Continental Drift?), Tempura, Sichuan Chicken,
Thai Beef Salad, Chilli Crab, Nasi Goreng and many more. This is a one-stop
Asian cookbook!
There are quite a few dishes that are new to me. Hot and
Sour Lime Soup with Beef sounds tangy and interesting, Chilli Octopus Salad will
be flavourful and light, and Noodle Cakes with Chinese Barbecued Pork will be a
stunner for a smart lunch.
There is a nice selection of Asian desserts
that would make an exotic end to your meal. I am often at a loss and it’s too
easy to resort to ordinary fruit salad, but how about a fruit salad with
pineapple, papaya, star fruit and ramboutans! There is a scrumptious Coconut Ice
Cream and you don’t even need an ice-cream maker, but the most striking has got
to be Sticky Black Rice sweetened with palm sugar. It’s easy to make but will be
both delicious and memorable.
Don’t open this book unless you have got a
nice cup of tea or glass of red wine. You won’t want to put it down. A lovely
book and great value for money.
Asian cookbook review:
Homestyle Asian
Author:
Murdoch Books
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £14.99
ISBN
978-1741962192
The Japanese Kitchen
Kimiko Barber has
produced a book which is bound to become a classic. It’s stunning to look at
with a wealth of marvellous photographs by Martin Brigdale which make it
appealing to anyone interested in either Japanese food or culture.
The
Japanese Kitchen is an encyclopaedia with recipes...or a cookbook with amazing
information about Japanese ingredients. Either way it’s a detailed and
well-researched volume of 100 ingredients and 200 recipes both classic and
contemporary.
Part 1 consists of an introduction to the history and
culture of Japan. You’ll want to read this as it puts the food into perspective.
Part 2 is all about the ingredients. It’s true that there are some unfamiliar
ones here but you’ll find them in many Asian food stores and they will be worth
trying.
Japanese dishes are not just raw fish, rice and noodles, although
these do play a big part. It’s a complex and sophisticated cuisine but not
necessarily difficult to master. There are very few techniques that will be
challenging but presentation is important: simple yet striking.
Spring
onions might not be the first Japanese ingredient to spring (if you’ll pardon
the pun) to mind but here they are used in two simple but typically Japanese
recipes. Negi Toro (Spring Onion and Tuna) is one of the most popular fillings
and toppings for sushi. The spring onion and pork stir fry is quick, has few
ingredients and would be a delicious dinner served with noodles.
It’s no
surprise that there are some delightful seafood dishes. The Japanese are
passionate about seafood of every kind and have some of the most exciting and
flavourful recipes. Squid with Salmon Roe is light and zesty with lemon. Deep
fried squid in batter is a classic and is crisp and succulent, and just right
with drinks or as part of a traditional tempura.
There is a list of
Japanese food suppliers with addresses, phone numbers and a few web sites. If
you can’t find Japanese ingredients near you then you will be able to get them
on line. It will be worth taking the trouble just to enjoy a truly different
culinary experience.
“An excellent book” says celebrated food writer Jill
Dupleix and I wholeheartedly agree. It’s exceptional.
Asian cookbook review:
The
Japanese Kitchen
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price:
£14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-769-4
Persia in Peckham
Just the title was enough to
get me turning the pages. Has it got something to do with Continental Drift? No,
this is simply one of the best reads around, and it’s not even been penned by a
famous food celeb, columnist or chef.
Sally Butcher has a husband who is
Iranian and they own Persepolis in Peckham, South London (a shop that sells all
manner of exotica, and which I fully intend to visit). When you find a husband
you get the in-laws as well, and Sally is lucky that hers are truly a bonus.
This book draws upon cultural heritage and culinary savvy to create a
smile-inducing mix of recipes and stories.
This is a chunky volume
illustrated with sketches and Arabic script. The recipes are for the most part
simple, and different from the typical Middle Eastern ones that I am familiar
with. Sally provides each one with some background information and often a funny
comment. This is heart-warming stuff even if you can’t cook a whisk’s
worth.
Persia in Peckham is full of recipes that I intend to steal! Not
all of those included in this book are Iranian because Sally has thoughtfully
added some dishes from her customers who hail from Somalia, Afghanistan, Greece
and the West Indies. Perhaps that’s what London is all about.
I love the
chapter on Pickles and Preserves, which offers such delights as Quince Jam with
Cardamom, and Persepolis Special Torshi, which is a sour pickle. The Casseroles
section has a host of delicious dishes but one of my favourites is Chicken and
Aubergine Boats, full of warming spices and tangy pickle.
The recipe that
I will not only steal but pass off as my own is Persimmons Filled with Spiced
Cheese. This would be an exotic end to Iranian or Indian meals, being sweet with
a hint of spice and lemon. The cheese in question isn’t a lump of cheddar or
Danish Blue but creamy fromage frais. You’ll need to buy the book for the full
recipe and you won’t have wasted your money.
I very much hope that Persia
in Peckham is nominated for some award or other. It has already been selected as
Cookbook of the Year 2007 by the Sunday Times. Sally deserves some recognition
as a funny and uplifting writer. Well done, that girl!
Asian cookbook review:
Persia in
Peckham
Author: Sally Butcher
Published by: Prospect Books
Price:
£17.99
ISBN 978-1903018514
Fish Indian Style
Chef and
restaurateur Atul Kochhar is one of the better known Asian faces on food TV in
the UK. His restaurant, Benares, holds a Michelin star and he has recently
opened another two restaurants. I think we can safely conclude that Atul
understands food.
This is a sumptuous
book with wonderful photographs by David Loftus who shows off Atul’s dishes to
best advantage but also adds striking close-ups of the stars of this book, the
fish.
Although a fish eater, I must admit that it is, more often than
not, bland. Chefs will try and persuade you that the lack of taste should be
considered as “delicate”. But many of us prefer more robust flavours that if
well chosen can enhance fish, and Atul has chosen well.
Fish Indian Style
offers over one hundred superb and unique recipes for all kinds of fish and
seafood. Most of the dishes have several alternatives to suit the seasons. Trout
might be substituted for salmon, sea bass or sea bream. Atul has recipes for
every occasion and for every taste.
Fish isn’t cheap so it’s good to be
able to be flexible. There are all kinds of fish, from the pricey for when you
feel like pushing the (fishing) boat out, to cheaper choices like mackerel which
is so often overlooked. Lobster might be beyond you at the end of the month but
you could substitute prawns.
Indian food is a great love of mine and
these recipes don’t disappoint. The food of the subcontinent isn’t always fiery
hot but is often aromatic and subtle. Atul’s ingredients marry well to produce
delicious dishes that are both exotic and simple. The spices are not expensive
and you’ll probably already have them to hand.
There are quite a few
recipes here that I would consider outstanding. Chilli-fried potted shrimps,
which is a rework of a British classic, and Crayfish Samosas, which is a new
take on an Indian classic. They are both simple recipes but produce lovely
results for starters or even an Anglo-Indian brunch or supper buffet. Konkani
Fish Curry in a Spicy Coconut Sauce is perhaps one of my (many) favourites. Its
combinations of spices and coconut typify the flavours of Indian cuisine, and
this is a traditional recipe.
Fish Indian Style will be well received by
those of us who want to do more with fish. It’s an exceptional book with
inspiring ideas that will encourage you to experiment...and probably to eat more
fish!
Asian cookbook review:
Fish Indian Style
Author: Atul Kochhar
Published by:
Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781904573838
Japanese Pure and
Simple
It’s fair to say that Kimiko Barber is the undisputed queen of
Japanese cooking in the UK, and this book is just another illustration of why.
Japanese Pure and
Simple has over 100 health-giving recipes that are simple and flavourful and a
feast for both the eyes and the palate. The photographs by Jan Baldwin are
gorgeous, giving the large format book an overall feel of
elegance.
Kimiko presents Japanese food as nourishing, balanced and
seasonal. The fresh ingredients are tinkered with as little as possible to
retain nutrients and texture. There is evidently something to be said for that
philosophy as the Japanese have the highest life expectancy in the
world.
The recipes are divided into various categories such as Soup,
Fish, Poultry, Rice etc and they are a marvellous selection, but my favourite
dishes are the Japanese Hotpots. These take fondue to new heights of
sophistication and have the advantage of being good for you. There is the usual
process of cooking raw meats and veggies in a stock but then you are left with a
richer and more flavourful broth than you started with. Anyone who has a little
space at the end of the Hotpot can finish that broth with the addition of rice
or noodles.
Teriyaki dishes are always popular. They are easy to prepare
and have that sweet rich flavour that is irresistible. Teriyaki Pork Steak is
one of those dishes that you’ll make often as either part of a Japanese meal or
served with western vegetables or salads. The ingredients are easy to find and
not expensive, and once the sauce is made you can keep it for a while in the
fridge. It works equally well with lamb chops but I love it with chicken
breasts.
The Japanese are renowned for the exquisite presentation of food
and Kimiko has thoughtfully given us some pointers. You don’t need to invest in
new crockery although I think that a small Sake flask and cups adds a hint of
authenticity. Use your usual plates but don’t pile on the food, rather create
landscapes with plenty of space and artful use of garnish. Very
Zen!
Kimiko Barber writes books that are full of advice to enable you to
prepare truly beautiful but healthy food with surprising ease. Choose the
freshest produce and enjoy these delightful dishes.
Asian cookbook review:
Japanese Pure
and Simple
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price:
£14.99
ISBN 1-85626-665-6
Chinese Food Made Easy
Ching-He Huang is a fresh
and youthful face which might be new to those of you who have missed her cooking
demonstrations on UKTV Food. She now enjoys a bit more well-earned exposure on
BBC2 with a series called Chinese Food Made Easy. If you love the programmes
(and who wouldn’t?) then you’ll want this sumptuous book. But who is this young
lady?
Ching was born in Taiwan but moved first to South Africa and
finally to the UK. Her parents ran a business and her mum was often overseas, so
Ching took the responsibility for feeding the family. She was soon preparing all
kinds of Chinese foods incorporating Yin and Yang – the Chinese philosophy of
balance and harmony.
As a teenager, Ching’s creativity encouraged her to
have a stab at acting. But after three years of living on the breadline and
successfully completing a degree in Economics, she began thinking about earning
some money.
What better idea than to start her own food company and that
was the birth of Fuge (pronounced 'fugee', and means “well-being” in Mandarin).
Ching’s products can now be found at retailers such as the Whistlestop chain and
in foodservice outlets. She has also provided the salads at the Chelsea Flower
Show and Wimbledon, as well as supplying a number of blue-chip companies in the
City.
Fuge was followed by the launch of Tzu ( pronounced “ta-zu”), a
healthy soft drinks range, which is now stocked in prestigious outlets such as
Harrods, Selfridges, Fresh and Wild, as well as luxury hotels and health
spas.
Ching was given a cookery series on the UKTV Food Channel at the
beginning of 2005 called Ching’s Kitchen. Gareth Williams, Channel Executive,
UKTV Food, said “She’s refreshing, entertaining, beautiful and above all makes
fantastic food!" In autumn 2006, Ching launched her first cookbook, “China
Modern”, which features over 100 recipes.
OK so that’s Ching, but how
about the book? Chinese Food Made Easy is divided into eight chapters with
scrumptious titles such as Dumplings, Dim Sum and Street Food. Yumm! The
photographs are by the celebrated Kate Whitaker and they are a delight. The
recipes are clear and simple and Ching gives some extra handy tips and serving
suggestions.
The food is mouth-watering and I’ll be happy to eat my way
through this book. Spiced Beef Stir-fry from the Muslim part of western China is
a bit different from the typical Chinese dishes, as it uses cumin. You’ll
probably already have all the other ingredients. Such an easy recipe but
delicious.
Ching has included a selection of side dishes and these will
enable you to compose a whole Chinese meal, and with that in mind there’s a menu
planner with ideas for a New Year Party, Romantic Dinner (ahh), a menu for kids,
and other suggestions.
There is no need to feel anxious if you are a
Chinese-cooking virgin. There is everything here that you’ll need to help you
cook lovely meals. Ching talks you through the cooking techniques, tools of the
trade and store cupboard ingredients.
Chinese Food made Easy is inspired
by a tradition and culture that has always valued the thoughtful preparation of
food. These are healthy dishes that are truly easy. Get the wok out this
weekend!
Asian cookbook review:
Chinese Food Made Easy
Author: Ching-He Huang (www.chinghe.com)
Published by:
HarperCollins
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726498-8
Calamity and Courage
Calamity
and Courage – A Heroine of the Raj is another in my collection of fascinating
books about India and all things Indian that I love so much. It also gave me a
surprise as the setting for the aforementioned heroism is in fact the very part
of India that my father knew so well – a remote area near the border with Burma.
The author Belinda Morse is the great-granddaughter of the
Victorian artist John Hanson Walker, who exhibited the portrait of Ethel
Grimwood at the Royal Academy, and the search for that portrait is in itself an
interesting journey.
Calamity and Courage is the story of Ethel Grimwood
and Manipur and it’s a tragic tale of Government mismanagement and unnecessary
loss of life. It’s the kind of story that would make a romantic adventure film,
a cross between The Life of Florence Nightingale and The Far
Pavilions.
There was a lot of family in-fighting around the court of the
Maharaja of Manipur which necessitated the resignation of one Maharaja and the
placement of another. The manipulation of events by the Indian Government
(British Government in India) seemed to have rocked lots of boats, which led
eventually to a massacre in 1891.
Ethel was marooned in the residence
with a small force of armed men and an increasing number of injured. It became
evident that they would all lose their lives if they stayed put so it was
decided to start out under fire to seek help, not only for themselves but for
those officers and men who were by that time held captive at the Maharaja’s
palace.
After many days of hardship they were rescued by friendly forces
and conducted to safety. It was, however, many weeks till Ethel discovered the
fate of her husband and the other captives. The uprising against the British was
big news and Ethel was given recognition for her service to the injured men. She
was even invited to meet Queen Victoria (who took a great interest in events in
India) to be awarded the Red Cross medal.
It seems that Ethel and her
husband had a good relationship with the Indian Princes who had treated them not
only with polite courtesy but with warm friendship and generosity. They seem to
have been unwitting victims of political infighting and both suffered for the
prejudices of those in authority.
Calamity and Courage is a book filled
with Victorian attitudes but it presents Ethel as a young woman with a bit of
grit and loyalty to the princes who were once so kind to her. An amazing
read.
Asian book review:
Calamity and Courage
Author: Belinda Morse
Published
by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-215-1
India’s Vegetarian Cooking
How does this
woman do it? Monisha Bharadwaj presents us with the most gorgeous books, each
one more sumptuous than the last. The photography of India by Jenner Zimmermann
is stunning and the food photography by Will Heap is almost
edible.
India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a regional guide to some of the
most traditional and delectable recipes from every corner of the subcontinent.
You will recognise some of them that have become popular restaurant fare but
there are many more that will be new to most of us. There are, in fact, over 130
dishes which typify so much that is fine about Indian vegetarian
cuisine.
India’s Vegetarian Cooking isn’t just a cookbook but it is
liberally laced with Monisha’s poetic prose which will add so much to your
understanding of the religious context, historic evolution and ayurvedic
perspective of food in India. The author has been lucky in her choice of parents
who encouraged their young daughter to try new foods and to appreciate them in
their unique regional setting.
Monisha Bharadwaj writes with passion and
evident pride about her love of all things culinary: “... my love of food and
cooking developed. It was almost like a bud opening into a flower, the myriad
taste sensations gradually becoming more and more distinct as I grew up.” Not
only is this lady a fabulous cook but her writing is rich, colourful and
evocative.... I think she models herself on me!
You’ll want to know a bit
more about the food and I can tell you it’s scrumptious. Whilst not being a
fully certified vegetarian, I don’t eat much meat and seldom eat red meat. These
recipes would, however, entice even the most committed meat-eater with their
flavourful ingredients and comforting textures. Each one is easy to follow and
not expensive to produce.
I am a big fan of lentils of all types and
Tangy Lentils with Crisp Bread (Dal Pakwan) is exceptional. But one of my all
time favourites is Potato and Garlic Balls Encased in Batter (Batata Vada). It’s
typical Mumbai street food with a lovely crisp outside and a soft tasty
interior. There are so many recipes here that deserve a mention...well, probably
130 of them!
India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a “must have” for any lover of
India and her food but also for the discerning collector of cookbooks. This is a
classy book from a classy writer.
Asian cookbook review:
India’s Vegetarian
Cooking
Author: Monisha Bharadwaj www.cookingwithmonisha.com
Published
by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-792-2
Ricelands – The World of
South-East Asian Food
Michael Freeman
must be one of the most celebrated and prolific photographers around. Ricelands
is his latest book (there are over 100 others) but this one isn’t about
photography. Have a look at michaelfreemanphoto.com for more of his
work.
Michael says of this book: “In it, I write about a subject close to
my heart and even closer to my stomach - the culture of food in South-east Asia.
Learn about one of the world's tastiest regional cuisines and how it's really
prepared and eaten in homes, not at all the same as in restaurants in the West.
And there are two hundred of my photographs, as well.”
This is an
exquisite volume from the award-winning photographer who is our guide through
the cuisines of eight South-east Asian countries. Thailand, Vietnam, Burma,
Cambodia, Malaysia, Laos, The Philippines and Indonesia are all represented
with the most sumptuous pictures.
This man has obviously gone to some
considerable trouble to research some of the dishes that we tourists are bound
to seek out. Of a rather large insect, Michael writes “Cooked to perfection, it
should be rather more chewy than crisp on the outside, with plenty of rich,
gravy-like liquid remaining inside.”...Um, perhaps later!
But amusing
observations aside, this is indeed a well-written and well-researched book.
Michael has a light and very readable style and his love of food is evident.
There are 20 or so recipes at the back of the book that are tempting. Chilli
Crab from Singapore is a robust and thoroughly delicious dish which will conjure
images of sultry evenings with the aroma of damp vegetation and jasmine floating
on the air.
Ricelands – The World of South-east Asian Food is an
absorbing read and will be appreciated not only by lovers of Asian food but by
travellers who want to be transported back to this remarkable part of the world.
This is a marvellous travelogue especially appealing to those of us who
want to know about the “real” food of this region. So much here is new and
fascinating and for that reason alone this would be an inspired gift for anyone
lucky enough to be flying off to South-east Asia.
I think that Michael
Freeman has missed his vocation. He should pursue a career as a food writer and
produce a lot more illustrated books of this quality.
Asian cookbook review:
Ricelands
– The World of South-East Asian Food
Author: Michael Freeman
Published by:
Reaktion Books
Price: £17.95
ISBN 978-1-86189-378-9
Vatch’s Thai Street Food
This is a lovely
large-format volume with brilliant food and travelogue photography by Martin
Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit. Vatch is in fact Vatcharin Bhumichitr who
is probably the most celebrated Thai chef in the UK. He has been cooking and
running restaurants in Britain since 1976.
Thailand has a vibrant and
active street food culture with most Thais eating from stalls at least once a
day. The dishes have a reputation for being both attractive and delicious and
are so popular with tourists that some consider eating street food as the
highlight of a trip.
Cooking Thai food at home might be a new challenge
for many of us. Perhaps “challenge” is the wrong word: these dishes aren’t
complicated but you’ll be introduced to a few new ingredients, although these
will be found in larger high street supermarkets. The cooking techniques will
hold no terrors.
Vatch starts us off with the preparation of the basic
red and green curry pastes. There are many good quality ready-made pastes
available these days so don’t be put off. There is a comprehensive store
cupboard and fresh ingredient list. There isn’t much special equipment although
a large mortar and pestle would be handy.
The recipes are divided by
location. Bangkok is the obvious choice for the first chapter and this is
followed by The Sea, The North and The Northeast. The dishes reflect the
ingredients popular in each area but they all look scrumptious.
I am so
pleased to find a recipe for White Radish Cake with Beansprouts. This might
sound a strange concoction but trust me, it’s delicious. It’s easy to make and
works well as either part of a meal or as a dim sum if served with chilli
sauce.
Grilled Chicken with Sweet Chilli Sauce couldn’t be simpler to
make. It’s lip-smacking scrumptious and is sure to become a favourite.
Deep-fried Spare Ribs will be another recipe I’ll use often. The ribs are tasty
and versatile as they remain a delightful snack even when cold and are ideal as
exotic picnic fare.
Fish Cakes with Fresh Pickle (Tod Man Pla) will be a
dish familiar to most tourists. The flavour and texture will be sure to revive
memories of markets and saffron-robed monks in Bangkok. These little morsels
make such a delightful presentation with the pickle served in a separate little
bowl of, preferably, blue and white Thai design.
Vatch has penned a
lovely book that introduces us to an easily accessible part of everyday Thai
life. Reading Vatch’s Thai Street Food might just encourage you to think more
seriously about that long-planned holiday!
Asian cookbook review:
Vatch’s Thai Street
Food
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price:
£14.99
ISBN 1-85626-402-5
Easy Japanese Cookbook
This isn’t just a
large format volume, it’s a seriously large format complete with a CD of
traditional Japanese music to listen to while you are either cooking or sitting
cross-legged in agony at your coffee table pretending to be eating at a tea
house in Nagoya.
Easy Japanese Cookbook is not only seriously large it’s
seriously beautiful, with huge colour pictures by William Lingwood. The text is
clear and the recipes easy to follow. Each one has preparation time and cooking
time clearly marked. It’s a wire-bound cookbook which gives the advantage of
staying open on the counter. No need for bottles of Sake balanced at the
corners.
The author, Emi Kazuko, has penned several cookbooks (her book
Street Cafe Japan was made into a TV series for UK Style) and is no stranger to
BBC radio. It’s obvious that she appreciates that Japanese cuisine is new to
many of us in the UK. Emi leads us through every aspect from ingredients,
cooking methods, equipment and basic recipes to appetizers, main courses, etc.
The menu section will tell you all you need to know about putting together an
authentic Japanese meal.
Japanese food might not be as familiar to us as,
say, Indian or even Thai but just a quick flick through the pages and you’ll see
that it is easy. Nothing here takes much hands-on effort. There are a few
recipes that demand a few hours marinade time but you don’t have to sit and
watch the food as it soaks, do you?
Ginger Pork with Rocket Salad is an
old-established and popular dish in Japan. It couldn’t be simpler. It takes 15
minutes to prepare, 10 minutes marinade time and 10 minutes to cook. It won’t
break the bank, it’s authentic and it’s a lovely family meal.
Most of us
will know the name Sukiyaki. No, not the Japanese pop song released in Japan in
1961 and in the US and UK in 1963 and sung by Kyu Sakamoto, killed in a plane
crash in 1985 (Impressed aren’t you?). No, this is the classic dish cooked in a
cast iron pan at the table. It’s a delicious combination of beef and vegetables.
It couldn’t be easier...your guests will be doing the cooking.
Anyone who
wants to try Japanese food at home will find all they need in Easy Japanese
Cookbook. It will take away the terror for beginners and supply the more
practised with lovely recipes... and some nice music as well.
Asian cookbook review:
Easy Japanese Cookbook
Author: Emi Kazuko
Published by: Duncan
Baird
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-656-7
Stylish Thai in Minutes
You
gotta love it - any cookbook that is called, “No Stress”, “2 Ingredients”, “A
Meal in a Moment” or “No Cooking Cookbook”. This book truly is Stylish Thai in
Minutes and it had my vote before I even opened the cover. I love cooking but I
don’t want to spend all my time in the kitchen. A bit of time in the dining room
is my goal!
Vatcharin Bhumichitr is probably one of the UK’s most
celebrated Thai restaurateurs and authors. His career started in the 70s and he
has gone from strength to strength with various food-related projects. He is
well respected within the industry and his books are always well
received.
Stylish Thai in Minutes is a large-format and sumptuous book
with Martin Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit supplying the photographs.
This collaboration has also produced stunning results for others of Vatch’s
cookbooks. There are over 120 recipes that will encourage you to try this
marvellously attractive and flavourful cuisine.
Thai food is becoming
more popular in the UK. There are many more restaurants and ingredients are more
readily available than ever. Thailand has become a popular tourist destination.
Those same tourists want to make authentic Thai food at home and Vatcharin
Bhumichitr is an authentic Thai cookbook author.
The dishes are divided
by type. The chapters start with Appetisers and Snacks and continue through
Salads and Soups, Curries and Main Dishes, Noodles and Rice, to Fruit, Desserts
and Drinks. The recipes are clear and easy to follow with both cooking and
preparation times indicated. Apart from the recipes there are stunning pictures
and articles about Thai culture and arts. Vatch’s pride in his homeland is
evident.
But it’s the food you are most interested in. The thought of
meals that take 30 minutes or less to prepare will have already caught your
attention. There is nothing here that is either difficult or time-consuming but
the food is uncompromising in its deliciousness.
Heavenly Beef (Nua
Sawan) only has five ingredients and takes five minutes to cook. OK, so the meat
needs to marinade for an hour but you don’t need to keep it company. Vatch says
that in Thailand after marinating the meat is left in the sun for a day to dry.
That might be difficult to do in the UK!
Pork with Garlic and Peppercorns
is spicy and hot from the pepper rather than the usual chillies. You will love
this one, dear reader! Only 3 minutes preparation time and 5 minutes cooking
time and it does look stylish.
Stylish Thai in Minutes is a gentle
introduction to Thai cooking and I’ll be delving into its lovely pages
often.
Asian cookbook review:
Stylish Thai in Minutes
Author: Vatcharin
Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN
978-1-85626-537-9
The Legendary Cuisine of
Persia
I can’t overestimate the importance of The Legendary Cuisine
of Persia. There are so few books on the culinary history of Iran although it
has had a profound effect upon the foods of so many eastern countries as well as
the Mediterranean diet.
Margaret Shaida, the author, was born in England
but moved to Iran when she married. She lived there for 25 years and learned to
cook from her mother-in-law, friends and other family members.
At first
glance you might find it difficult to see the relevance of Persian cuisine in
modern Europe but there are a few clues to its impact. The Old Persian bâdangân
became al-badinjan in Arabic, alberjinera in Spanish, and finally aubergine in
French and English. The word Spanish has its origin in the Old Persian espenj,
orange came from nârang, lemon came from limoo.
The Moghuls (Mongols)
invaded Persia and adopted the language, cuisine and religion of their new land.
Two hundred years later Tamerlane, a direct descendant of Genghiz Khan, set his
sights on India and took with him the traditions of the Persian court and
kitchen. Biryani is the Persian word for baked, nan was introduced to India by
the Persians and was baked in a tanoor which later became a tandoor. It’s
certain that India has changed the original Persian dishes and made them her
own. They might have the same names but they are spicier now.
The recipes
are divided by type with a chapter on bread being first. This might seem strange
but bread has an almost mythical importance even in the modern Iranian home.
It’s never wasted or allowed to fall to the floor. Left-overs are made into
breadcrumbs rather than being thrown away.
There are delightful recipes
here. They have subtle and aromatic flavours rather than being hot with spices.
Rice dishes are held in high esteem but poorer families might only eat these on
festival days. Rice with Herbs (Sabzi Polow) is perfumed with parsley,
coriander, dill and chives. Rice with Dried Fruit and Nuts (Ajeel Polow) is
substantial and delicious with minced lamb, crisp fried onions and dried
cherries.
Kebabs are now familiar to us in the west. Margaret Shaida
offers us a mouth-watering selection all of which will be more succulent and
tasty than the dodgy examples found in late-night take-aways from Brighton to
Beijing. Lamb Fillet Kebab is delicate and tender and you’ll notice the
difference.
Pickles are traditionaly a big thing in Iranian homes so
Margaret has included several interesting ones. Pickled Shallots are easy to
produce although a bit time-consuming. Make large quantities of these and you’ll
have something different to offer guests. Try them and you’ll agree they are
worth the effort.
It’s always tempting to just jump directly into the
recipes in cookbooks. Don’t do that with this book. You’ll miss so much
fascinating information. Claudia Roden has said “...the background and history
of the food is both a joy and a precious contribution to the world of
gastronomy.” If you have a serious interest in food then you will find this book
enchanting.
Asian cookbook review:
The Legendary Cuisine of Persia
Author: Margaret
Shaida
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-902304-60-8
The Big Book of Thai Curries
Vatcharin
Bhumichitr has penned some fabulous books and I must say that The Big Book of
Thai Curries is equal in every way to those others. He is the golden boy (well,
OK, man) of Thai cooking.
Vatch has stuck to the winning formula of easy
dishes with flavour and style. He has wisely marshalled the talents of
photographers Martin Brigdale and Somchai Phongphaisarnkit once again. It’s a
partnership that works well and produces the most sumptuous and colourful of
books. There is the tried and tested mix of recipes and insight into Thailand
and its people.
The Big Book of Thai Curries not only offers us recipes
but gives us a wealth of information about Thai cooking and the place of curry
in that cuisine. This is authentic Thai food and Vatch steers us through
everything from regional culinary differences to making curry pastes. It’s
fascinating and far easier than one would have imagined.
So how does a
Thai curry differ from the ever-popular Indian varieties? Thai curry nearly
always uses fresh herbs and spices rather than the dried preparations favoured
in kitchens of the subcontinent. Indian curries are most often cooked in a base
of ghee (clarified butter) rather than coconut milk. Thai curries often combine
vegetables with meat or fish while Indian curries tend to be either of
vegetables or of meats or fish.
The recipes are grouped by main
ingredient: poultry, meat, fish, and vegetables and fruit. There is also a
section of Snacks and One-Dish Meals which has a selection of dishes that most
travellers will find familiar. Pork Satay with Peanut Curry Sauce (Moo Satay) is
popular street food but these succulent little skewers make a tasty starter.
Seafood Toast (Kanom Pang Talay) is an elegant morsel of bread with a delicate
taste and crunchy texture.
The recipe chapters have some lovely
surprises, the main one being the ease of preparation of all these dishes. Spicy
Stuffed Roast Chicken is one of my favourite recipes. The whole chicken makes
for a different presentation from the more usual array of small dishes of
curries, rice or noodles. The stuffing in question is of onions, pork, peanuts
and herbs, flavourful and lighter than the bread-based stuffing more common in
the UK. The curry paste in this case is used as a rub before roasting, and
coconut milk is used to baste.
Mackerel in Red Curry is another
noteworthy dish. No fish is exactly cheap these days but we know we should eat
more of it. Mackerel is a reasonable price and a healthy oily fish. The whole
dish takes less than ten minutes to prepare so it’s got to be a great mid-week
meal.
The Big Book of Thai Curries is just as stunning as I had expected,
the recipes just as delicious and they are accessible to even novice cooks, who
will be producing exotic and attractive meals in no time at all. Vatcharin
Bhumichitr has done it again!
Asian cookbook review:
The Big Book of Thai
Curries
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price:
£14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-808-0
India – One Man’s Personal
Journey Round the Subcontinent
This is a unique
perspective from a west London lad who takes a voyage of discovery, a voyage to
discover heritage, roots, amazing differences and surprising commonality.
Sanjeev Bhaskar has straddled both British and Indian societies with their many
complexities and contradictions.
Sanjeev had a childhood to which so
many of us can relate. Home was a maisonette above a laundrette and under the
Heathrow flight path. I can still remember the distinctive aroma of the paraffin
stove that was the “heater of choice” for his family and so many others in the
1960s. Not everything was cold, grey and gloomy – the fish and chip shop was
just next door!
The long family holidays spent in New Delhi seemed to the
young Sanjeev to be a catalogue of discomfort, with intermittent water supply
and mosquitoes that had a penchant for English take-away. Telephones were rare
and air conditioning wasn’t an option, but how times have changed - twenty years
later India is a world leader in biotechnology and pharmaceutical research, it
has the world’s largest radio telescope and is at last taking its place in the
international arena in so many other areas. India still manages to hold to its
traditions, a task that would seem impossible to maintain under the onslaught of
technology and modernity.
Sanjeev is famed for his comedic portrayal of
Indians in the UK and for hosting Delhi Belly, a food travelogue with
restaurateur Reza Mahammad. You would expect him to write a light and witty
book, and India is very much that. It’s also filled with honest and sometimes
painful observation. There is a story of tragedy here that also speaks of
strength, forgiveness and hope for the future.
On a humorous note our
hero is invited to the birthday party of His Royal Highness Rajeshwar
Saramad-i-Rajha-i-Hindustan Mahararjadhiraja Maharajah Shri GAJ SINGHJI II Sahib
Bahadur Singh. Sanjeev wonders “Gosh, what do we sing when we get to ‘Happy
Birthday dear....?’ He had no need to worry as it was “Happy Birthday dear
Bapji” and the dear man even handed Sanjeev a slice of his cake.
India –
One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent is a book that will take you
through the whole spectrum of emotion but it’s equally a book that will be
thoroughly enjoyed by those of us who love India in all its myriad facets.
Asian book review:India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the
Subcontinent
Author: Sanjeev Bhaskar
Published by: HarperCollins
Price:
£8.99
ISBN 978-0-00-724739-4
Indonesian Food
Indonesian Food is a fascinating autobiographical cookbook
which starts in 1939 when Sri Owen was a small girl. She has memories of food at
her sister's birthday party: boiled soya beans in their shells, which Sri now
muses are an expensive starter at smart London restaurants. That says so much
about our society!
Gus Filgate is the photographer for this remarkable
volume. Any collector of fine cookbooks will know that he is recognised as one
of the best. Indonesian Food has a chunky, square format which is attractive
enough to be a high-end travelogue. The saffron-coloured, embossed cover
encourages you to expect something special... and that’s just what you’ll get.
Sri Owen is rightly considered the Grande Dame of Indonesian Cooking.
Her career has been broad-based to say the least. In the mid-1980s, she even ran
a delicatessen from the shop below the flat in Wimbledon, southwest London,
which she shared with her husband Roger. "Besides preparing food for the shop, I
also supplied Harrods with several Indonesian dishes - the spicy paste sambal
goreng, mini spring rolls, and my marinade for satay and barbecues. I ran the
deli for three years. It was really hard work. I didn't even have time to read.”
That was a tragedy for a self-confessed bookaholic.
I confess that I am
something of an Indonesian food debutante. It’s not that this is a cuisine that
I have avoided but more that it’s not celebrated in the same fashion as, say,
Indian, Thai or even Japanese. Sri has chosen recipes with care and uses
ingredients that you’ll find in most well-stocked supermarkets or your local
Asian food store, so you don’t have to be an experienced cook to tackle these
dishes.
There are so many “must try” recipes here and Gado-Gado is
included in that list. Sri notes “The best Gado-Gado, and I still remember it
well, used to be sold at a warung in Jogyakarta, in a small alley not far from
the main street, Malioboro. This was in 1960. For my fellow students and me, it
was the main meal of the day.” This is a delicious preparation of vegetables and
spicy peanut sauce. Healthy and full of flavour.
But, ooohh, the chapter
on ice cream! I hadn’t considered ice cream as being popular in the east. A
ridiculous oversight when I know that Indian kulfi is a lovely end to a
sub-continental meal. Sri has some wonderful examples. Kaffir Lime Ice Cream and
Coconut Ice Cream can both be made without going to the expense of buying an ice
cream maker.
Indonesian Food isn’t a book to rush. Settle into your
favourite comfy chair and read of Sri’s life, travels, tastes and experiences.
Her writing is rich, charming and evocative and this is one of the most
absorbing food-related books around.
Indonesian Food is, quite frankly,
marvellous. Every recipe has impact, every picture is vibrant. Sri Owen has a
warm and accessible style that makes this reading experience a joy.
Asian cookbook review:
Indonesian Food
Author: Sri Owen
Published by: Anova
Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-678-7
The Bollywood Cookbook
This book is stuffed with the best looking people around.
The author, Bulbul Mankani, introduces us to the glamorous world of the Indian
film industry and it has a dreamlike quality. These actors and actresses are
almost too good to be true and if you believe that they eat these wonderful
dishes every day then I for one will sign up for the Gulab Jamun Diet. But more
of that later.
I confess, dear reader, that I don’t know much of
Bollywood and its films. They seem to be a confection of colour, vibrance, song
and dance, and probably preferable to the offering of blood and guts which is so
often the genre of choice for western film-goers.
Bollywood films have
elevated film stars to superhuman and sometimes god-like status so it’s no
surprise that there is a market for a cookbook to allow us a little peek into
the eating habits of these famed folk. It’s not just the stars that look good;
the food is mouth-watering as well. You wouldn’t expect the beautiful people of
Mumbai to be tucking into chip butties, would you?
Although I can’t reel
off the names of Indian film stars as if I was reading the local telephone
directory, I can at least recognise a few of the most celebrated of the 19 or so
featured in this volume. The Kapoors are perhaps one of the most famous
dynasties and they offer Chicken Haleem and Yuglee Mutton. Another clan who has
made film their business is the Bachchan family, who present us with Hara Channa
Masala amongst others.
If you are a non-film-going European you might
still recognise the name Shilpa Shetty. Didn’t she do rather well on one of
those “reality” shows? Shilpa has a taste for Sukha Lamb and Spicy Beans, but
for me the best recipe has to be from Raveena Tandon. Gulab Jamun is a dessert
of melt-in-the-mouth balls of sweet syrup-soaked sponge and to know them is to
love them. Raveena is an expert at making these and can recite the recipe from
memory. That is surely the sign of a well-loved dish.
The Bollywood
Cookbook has authentic Indian food aplenty. The 75 or so recipes are divine and
not over-taxing for even a British home cook, and this is a book of style and
excitement. I already have friends who want to borrow it and I suspect I’ll have
to fight to get it back.
Asian cookbook review:
The Bollywood Cookbook
Author:
Bulbul Mankani
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN
978-1-85626-765-6
The Chinese Kitchen
“ ... People who know Deh-ta say that he is one terrific
chef, a chap who makes spectacular banquets, and one outstanding culinary
host... If you do not already know this prolific author’s publications, you
must! You need to try his recipes and learn from him. You will not be
disappointed...” (The Institute for the Advancement of the Science and Art of
Chinese Cuisine.)
Deh-ta Hsiung must be one of the authors most qualified
to pen an encyclopaedia of Chinese ingredients, for that is exactly what The
Chinese Kitchen represents. It’s a comprehensive and thoroughly engaging volume
that will add to your knowledge of some foods and introduce you to
others.
The formula for The Chinese Kitchen is that used by Kyle Cathie
for several of their other publications, and it’s a style that works very well.
Each ingredient is described, everything from growing to storing, and then on to
culinary uses and recipes. Always well illustrated (around 300 photographs in
this particular volume), these books demystify ethnic cooking and encourage us
to take advantage of the amazing variety of ingredients available these
days.
Apart from being a definitive guide to the Chinese store cupboard,
The Chinese Kitchen offers over 200 recipes which will tempt you away from the
local take-away and into the local Asian market. The recipes are not difficult
to prepare and they are authentic and irresistible. You could do worse than to
carry this book with you to the Chinese supermarket. Your filled shopping basket
will, no doubt, impress the lady on the till who will rightly suppose that
tonight’s dinner will be a marvellous affair.
You’ll want to cook your
carefully selected purchases, and there is a dish here for every taste. Bean
Curd is an example of a popular Chinese ingredient and there is a lovely recipe
for Sichuan Spicy Bean Curd. Any dish cooked in the Sichuan fashion is bound to
be punchy and flavourful and this version uses chilli bean paste and Sichuan
peppercorns to supply the heat.
Ken Hom says of The Chinese Kitchen: “I
trust that this major culinary work from the masterchef himself will be a proud
companion to your Chinese cookery books as well as being a standard reference.”
That’s a fantastic accolade from one of the best about one of the best and I
couldn’t put it better myself.
Asian cookbook review:
The Chinese Kitchen
Author:
Deh-ta Hsiung
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN
978-1-85626-702-1
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
You already know, dear reader,
that I have a passion for Indian food so it’s no surprise that I, once again,
feature a book about the dishes of the subcontinent. This, however, is a little
different from the previously reviewed cookbooks, as its focus is on future
trends, as well as including lesser-known classic dishes.
The author, Vivek Singh,
is the executive chef at the celebrated Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the
Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He has previously penned The Cinnamon Club
Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and
Contemporary is a marvellous showcase for this man’s talent and unique
perspective.
But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a
curry”, “let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for any
kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather amused by our
notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or horrified at our ignorance). It
seems that the misconception dates back to the British officers of the East
India Company. These chaps spent their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak
the language so when asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was
“curry” tonight rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the
delicious array of other diverse dishes.
The recipes here are striking. I
recognise the classics like Jungle Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there
are many more that are new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a
popular restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as
it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a scotch egg
(boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic sauce. Those army
officers in India would recognise this one.
I love Raan (leg of lamb) and
Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes
the most wonderful presentation for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a
bit of work but you’ll find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the
meat which will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous
aroma that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the
table.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are
both of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my way
through every dish. A delight.
Asian cookbook review: Curry – Classic and
Contemporary
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price:
£20.00
ISBN 9-781904-573883
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Perhaps this
book should have been entitled The Road to Chicken Tikka Masala for it charts
the evolution of “Indian” food in Britain. It’s been a long and sometimes
chequered story which mirrors the close association between the UK and India,
the jewel in Queen Victoria’s crown.
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry
Cooks and Curry Books is part of a remarkable series from Prospect Books. The
English Kitchen series looks at the history of dishes and their place in our
cuisine. Other volumes include Trifle and Soup, but Early Vegetarian Recipes and
Rhubarbarian will follow shortly. They form a fascinating study into what we eat
and why.
The authors, Helen Saberi and David Burnett, are well placed to
write a quality food-related volume. Helen has penned Noshe Djan – Afghan Food
and Cookery, and assisted the late Alan Davidson in the compilation of the
Oxford Companion to Food. David is a publisher who has won acclaim for his
re-publication of Countryman’s Cooking by W.F. Fowler.
Our love of curry
did, in fact, start before the Victorian era. The first mention of a curry in a
cookbook was in 1717, although Nicholas Culpeper discusses in 1653 the
properties of many of the spices that later were recognised as key curry
ingredients. Of coriander he writes “... sends up unwholesome vapours to the
brain, dangerous for mad people.” I hear that curry is often on the menu at the
House of Commons; there is hope though, as the ever-popular mustard is said to
be “...excellent for one that is troubled with lethargy.”
The charm of
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is that it’s a compilation
from a variety of cookbooks. The attitudes they present range from the naive to
the enlightened, with even the quintessentially English Mrs Beeton interesting
herself in the preparation of a Chicken Curry with Chickpeas. She even
recommends the use of ghee (Indian clarified butter) and that indicates that
those returning from the subcontinent brought with them some traditional Indian
ideas ...and perhaps some traditional Indian cooks.
Dr. Senn produced a
good many cookery books before the First World War and until the 1930s. He is
“famed” for such works as Tomatoes and Their Many Uses, and Special Dishes for
Borstal Institutions. He notes that “...Madras curry is of the best classical
period”, “...The Bengal artist is greatest in fish and vegetable curries”, and
“...Bombay boasts of its particular gifts in its bomelow fish and popedoms.” I
can find no reference to bomelow fish so I conclude that it must be
extinct!
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is a
fascinating and sometimes amusing look at the food we love so much. We might not
eat “authentic” Indian food but we seem to love our version of it. This book is
a must for anyone who enjoys Britain’s favourite food.
Asian book review:
The Road
to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Authors: Helen Saberi and David
Burnett
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN
978-1-903018-57-6
Complete Indian Cooking - Meena Pathak
You might not know the name Meena Pathak but I am sure you know her products. Pataks is the name of the
company she has helped to prominence, and those little jars and packets
are in every supermarket both in the UK and around the world. The
distinctive labels indicate quality foods that have a good reputation
with home cooks.
Meena trained in food technology and hotel management with the
prestigious Taj hotel group. Combine that with a passion for food and
you have a recipe (sorry for the pun) for culinary success. She has, in
fact, packaged her talents and sold them on to the general public, but
Complete Indian Cooking is about cooking from scratch with hardly a jar
to be seen.
There are over 180 recipes in this volume which is really two books in
one: Flavours of India and Indian Cooking for Family and Friends. Meena
does not assume that you are a seasoned Indian cook so she introduces
us to India’s Culinary Traditions, Favourite Ingredients, Cooking Tips
and Kitchen Equipment.
The food is mouthwatering. I have a love of Indian food and I’ll enjoy
eating my way through much of this book. The photography by John
Freeman is first class, showing both the food and Meena to best
advantage. It’s a large format book with great visual appeal and is a
marvellous showcase for Meena’s food.
The recipes are broad-based and offer plenty of choice for both
vegetarians and meat eaters. The meat of choice is, unsurprisingly,
lamb but there are fish dishes aplenty as well as sweets. The recipes
are easy to follow and are, for the most part, simple to prepare. The
key to success is the combination of spices. There are no complicated
cooking techniques and you’ll already have the kitchen equipment.
There are some stunning dishes here. Prawn Balichow is a favourite
relish but I have only ever tasted the commercial varieties. This isn’t
difficult to make and it’s lovely as part of a starter or buffet.
Devilled Prawns would be a delicious alternative.
The chapter called Rice, Bread and Accompaniments has some lovely dips.
Coriander and Mint Raita will be familiar to restaurant goers, as is
Sabzi Raita served with Biryani. Lentils with Cream and Butter is real
comfort food, rich and unctuous, so eat this with just rice or bread...
not white sliced though.
Complete Indian Cooking is a book to use. It’s attractive and sumptuous
but it would be a shame to keep it anywhere but the kitchen.
Asian cookbook review:Complete Indian Cooking
Author: Meena Pathak
Published by: New Holland
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-159-3
Chinese Cookery – Ken Hom
This is the 25th anniversary edition of Ken’s original and ground-breaking book. I had that first edition, and it fell
apart through years of use. I am sure that many readers will have had
the same experience. This is a book you will use even if you are too
young to remember the BBC series that helped launch Ken Hom onto the UK
food scene. It’s already a classic and it’s not difficult to see why.
Ken was the first Chinese chef/cook/food presenter to make a real
impact in the UK. Kenneth Lo had long been respected as a promoter of
Chinese food in Britain, but Ken Hom had a TV series that coincided
with renewed interest in cooking and all things foodie. This slightly
nervous young man presented entertaining and fascinating programmes
that introduced Chinese food to a country that was ready to accept new
flavours and the excitement of frying with a wok with the gas turned
high. We started to find Chinese ingredients in high street shops and a
quick stir-fry seemed more appealing than a time-consuming roast.
Chinese Cookery is a book welcomed by those new to Chinese cooking and
those who are well practised in that cuisine. Ken offers a wealth of
information about ingredients, equipment, menu planning and technique,
and then it’s on to the food which is marvellous. There are some
additions to the first edition so now there is a selection of dishes
that encompass both traditional family cooking and also some
contemporary innovations.
I am not sure that Ken Hom has a “signature dish” but I have my
favourites. Chicken Pieces in Black Bean Sauce is a recipe that is
simple but delicious. The black beans are salty and tangy and they give
the chicken a unique flavour that I have found to be quite
addictive. Cold Spicy Noodles are comforting and rich. I use
peanut butter although Ken says that sesame paste is equally good.
These noodles are so easy to prepare and it’s truly a meal in moments.
If you don’t really like cooking you will love this one.
OK, so the TV series was well-timed but it’s the quality of Ken Hom’s
work that has allowed him to stay at the top of his profession. Chinese
Cookery has endured because the recipes still reflect modern tastes.
Timeless!
Asian cookbook review: Chinese Cookery
Author: Ken Hom
Published by: BBC Books
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84-6076-053