It's
all
about
food
and a bit of travel. Lots of cookbook reviews, restaurant
reviews, chef news, and food information.
It changes every
day!
If you can't find a restaurant review or cookbook review here it's
because I have either
not yet reviewed or did not like the restaurant
or book. Please look elsewhere for negative reviews. Contact Chrissie Walker at
mostlyfood@live.co.uk
Saransh Goila is the winner of Food Food Maha Challenge
The verdict is finally out. Chef, actor and writer Saransh Goila has
emerged as the winner of the cooking-reality show Food Food Maha
Challenge. The show is being aired on channel Food Food and is hosted
by actress Madhuri Dixit and renowned chef Sanjeev Kumar.
Saransh was one of the 16 contestants on the show who were battling to
the win the coveted title of India Ka Superchef. In the show, Madhuri
called him ‘My chocolate hero.’
Saransh – whose specialty is contemporary Indian food, with varied
knowledge of Italian food & bakery and confectionery as well – is
all set to host his own chat show which is part of his winnings for the
Maha Challenge.
“After winning the show, I will eat, sleep and drink only food,” smiles
Saransh.
The chef further went on to say that he is a born foodie and he weighed
around 91 kgs at the age of 19. He suggests everyone to maintain a
balance between eating and exercising.
“Eat and exercise and you will be fit to be on television,” ends
Saransh.
Article by Tellychakkar.com
**********************
Join award-winning cookbook author Corinne Trang, a celebrated expert
on Asian cuisine, as she guides you through New York
City's
Chinatown demystifying the world of Asian ingredients. You'll discover
markets specializing in dried seafood, bird's nests, and more, and meet
an herbalist. You'll visit a typical Asian supermarket and vegetable
stand where condiments and produce will be identified and tips on
proper storage and use will be revealed. You'll taste all sorts of
dumplings, northern style pulled noodles, Southeast Asian beef jerky,
and Asian-style ice cream including black sesame and lychee. The tour
will also include a Taiwanese tea service. Bring an open mind and an
appetite!
Tours are scheduled every Wednesday starting the first week of July,
from 10 AM to 2 PM (unless otherwise noted) for a minimum of 8 and
maximum of 10 people. (Please note: autographed copies of Essentials of
Asian Cuisine, The Asian Grill (2006), and Noodles Every Day (2009) are
extra and available at a discounted price.) For more information
including cost or to arrange a private group tour, please email
ct@corinnetrang.com. Also feel free to browse through the website at http://www.corinnetrang.com/
Bubbleology - Soho
I have long heard of bubble tea, and have read the
descriptions and seen the pictures, but it had been an exotic mystery
... until now.
Bubble tea is the name for a ‘pearl’ tea drink with milk or fruit juice
that originated in tea shops in Taichung, Taiwan, during the 1980s.
There are plenty of recipes, and more are added all the time. They
mostly contain a green, white, black or even red tea base mixed with
fruit syrup or milk. The milky varieties can be served hot or cold.
The aforementioned pearls are called “boba” – small chewy
balls made of tapioca starch. That might not sound too appetising but
they add so much to the appeal of the drink. They are the reason for
the iconic large-diameter straws. They have an agreeable chewy texture,
very much like a wine gum. Those little spheres turn this preparation
into a drinkable snack which is really quite sustaining. However, the
"Bubble” element to the name doesn't actually refer to the tapioca
pearls which rest at the bottom of the cup, but to the froth at the top
of the tea which is created when the drink is shaken.
Bubble tea has swept Asia, the US and Canada and now it’s reached
London. It’s available in Soho, its logical first unveiling in the
capital. Bubbleology is a small café with hints of a chemist’s
workshop with blackboards, intriguing potions and lab assistants who
will take time away from their delicious mixings and minglings to serve
visitors.
We tried several versions of both hot and cold bubble teas. The fruit
teas were light and refreshing. Those black tapioca
pearls added substance but there was more. In addition to the gummy
chews there were other smaller,
translucent balls suspended in the drink. These were capsules of fruity
flavour that burst in the mouth. Thirst-quenching and
summery.
The weather was cold so the hot milk teas were especially welcome. They
truly were piping hot and with those pearls this became
more of a lunch than elevenses. The Taro milk tea was mild and
comforting and just the drink to sit and sip while pawing over the
morning papers. A drink over which to linger. The almond milk tea
should be a Christmas special. It very much reminded me of marzipan.
It’s sweet and warming and a great pick-me-up after hours of trotting
around the January sales.
Bubbleology is a fun café that offers remarkable beverages, and
some snacks that I’ll return to sample in the near future. Be warned –
these drinks are addictive but be assured that they are healthy, so one
of those no-guilt pleasures. Now, how rare is that?
Bubbleology
49 Rupert St, Soho, London W1D 7PF
Phone: 020 7494 4231
Visit Bubbleology here
Seasoning Indian
Restaurant – Fulham, 2012
It’s rare that I visit restaurants more that once for
reviews. If I do it’s because they have food festivals to cover,
an
event
to promote or a new menu. Seasoning in Fulham was worthy of a
second bite just because, well, it’s Seasoning.
Owner Salil Bhatia arrived in the UK in 1988. He enjoyed an illustrious
career with the celebrated Gaylord restaurant where he further honed
his managerial and catering skills. He was the first to offer high-end
Indian function catering in London and has looked after the great and
the good in the Asian community. Anybody who has attended an Indian
wedding will know that presenting guests with the best food served with
grace is a serious business. Salil can feed a group of hundreds for
lunch and dinner for several days, and he can do that at any suitable
venue anywhere in the world. His recent projects have included catering
in both Portugal and Morocco.
The restaurant element of his extensive enterprise is Seasoning on
Lillie Road in Fulham. It’s a shining culinary light offering food that
would not be out of place in a more central location. It has good
transport links via both Underground and bus and it’s only a short walk
from Earls Court, so ideally situated for exhibition visitors looking
for exceptional Indian dining.
Seasoning is a contemporary space. Its gleaming whiteness welcomes one
even before the door is reached. There is a smart marble-clad terrace
that is laid with tables during the warmer months. The main dining room
is cosier than I remember on my first visit, but the walls were almost
bare in those days and now they are hung with contemporary Indian art
and ornaments. Nothing kitsch, but just enough to introduce a bit of
exotic ambiance. Brown banquettes offer a rich softness.
The huge wine cabinet reminds the diner that Seasoning has a creditable
wine list and even the house wine is rather
good.
The
bar offers a good selection of spirits and mixed drinks as
well as signature cocktails. A small seating area is
the spot to lounge and relax before making your way to a table.
Perspex chairs add still more style. Salil admits that he was not too
sure about them initially but they are comfortable, they are striking
and practical and the customers like them, so he has warmed to them
over the last couple of years. Crisp white linen and low evening lights
help to make this a rather romantic dining experience. Tables are well
spaced to give privacy but the seating is flexible and attractive for
groups. Larger gatherings can be accommodated in the basement function
room.
The Executive Chef is Nirmal C. Save. Salil generously remarks that
this young man is a genius and that the restaurant appreciates having
him. The menu showcases some of his outstanding skills, but it also
includes some of those classic dishes that Indian food lovers in the UK
have come to crave. Old favourites are
here, like Butter Chicken; Chicken Tikka Masala is also featured
–
well,
let’s admit it, it’s the national dish and it’s well loved.
It’s called ‘culinary evolution’, which is also illustrated by some
Chinese-inspired dishes, and these will not seem at all strange to any
Indian who visits Seasoning from the Subcontinent. Chinese food in
India is almost as popular as Indian food in the UK.
Seasoning has a menu that will appeal to meat eaters, fish lovers and
vegetarians alike. The vegetarian starter platter for two gives an
attractive and flavoursome introduction to the artistry of the chef:
Hajjis and samosas along with the unique and delicious stuffed
mushrooms that could become addictive. The tandoori paneer is moreish.
Piscatorial aficionados will be drawn to the Tandoori Tilapia. Fish is
delicate and can be so easily overcooked in the fierce heat of a clay
oven; chef Nirmal has a deft hand and presents fish with a hint of
agreeable charring, the flesh remaining moist.
Carnivores need not feel short-changed even at this top
end of the menu. The grilled lamb chops here are becoming
legendary.
Well-balanced
spices enhance the tender meat: this must
surely be a signature dish.
The main courses will tempt those looking for familiar comfort foods
but will equally entice diners seeking the savoury richness of the
exquisite Duck Chettinad – a dish that is found on a few respectable
Indian restaurant menus, but the version at Seasoning can hold its own
with the best of ’em. This is one of my favourites and a must-try.
For those that hanker after some home-style cooking (well, from someone
else’s kitchen and you won’t be doing the washing up) try the Keema
Mattar, a traditional dish of minced lamb and peas. Bhaigan Bhartha
will appeal to guests who prefer a non-meat option. This is
finely-chopped baked aubergines cooked with tomatoes and onion. This is
a smooth and aromatic concoction that only needs a little bread for
scooping. A delight.
India has some marvellous desserts but few of them can be sampled in
British restaurants. Yes, there are sweets
but they are unfortunately sometimes of poor quality and seldom made
in-house. Seasoning is proud of its puds and offers
some typical ones that the unsuspecting would usually have received
straight from a catering pack. Here they are made from scratch, so save
some space. Firni is well worth trying, as is the Gulab Jamun which I
can never refuse. The Kulfi is creamy and tangy and comes in several
flavours, and makes a cooling end to a fine meal.
Seasoning is a gem. One can consider lots of flowery reviewery phrases
that might well win me a prize for gastronomic eloquence, but suffice
it to say it’s a nice place to be and the food will assure your return
visit, as it has done for me.
There are a few more Vietnamese restaurants around these
days. The UK had an influx of Vietnamese refugees a couple of decades
ago but those folks who chose to work in the food industry seemed
mostly to open fish and chip shops rather than restaurants. Now, we do
have some specialist Vietnamese restaurants and many more cafés
that offer the traditional Vietnamese sandwich bánh mì
and the substantial national Pho soup.
This is an ancient country with a history dating back some 4000 years.
Its closest international influence has been, unsurprisingly, China,
its largest and most powerful neighbour. Successive Chinese dynasties
ruled Vietnam directly for most of the period from 207 BC until 938
when Vietnam gained its freedom. The independent period ended in the
middle to late 19th century when Vietnam was colonised by France; and
after WWII there was a bloody conflict, during which time China and the
Soviet Union supported the North while the United States aided the
South. The Vietnam War ended with the Fall of Saigon in 1975.
Times have been tough for Vietnam but in 1986 the Communist Party of
Vietnam changed its economic policy and started reforms to allow
private enterprise. Since that time Vietnam has achieved substantial
economic growth and is slowly becoming a destination for culinary and
cultural diversion.
Vietnamese food is considered some of the healthiest in the world,
although that aforementioned sandwich (a legacy from the French
occupation and stuffed with fatty paté) redresses the balance.
There are different styles of cuisine reflecting availability of
ingredients across the country. Northern Vietnam has a cooler climate
which limits the range of local spices; the food is therefore less
vibrant than that in other regions. Central Vietnam's mountains allow
for the production of many more spices and the cuisine is marked by
their use. The warmer weather of the South make this the ideal region
for growing fruit and vegetables as well as raising animals; this area
has also had more culinary influences from China, India, France and
Thailand.
Such is the love of food in this land that even its celebrated leader
Ho Chi Min was a cook, in both Paris and London. Authentic Recipes from
Vietnam offers an accessible overview of the dishes of that country.
All the ingredients can be found in Asian food stores so there is no
excuse for not trying these simple and delicious recipes. Yes, there is
Pho soup but much more that will likely be new to the novice Vietnamese
diner.
The classic Vietnamese Deep-fried Spring Rolls are great as a
make-ahead starter for any kind of Asian meal, but also to go with
drinks. The filling can be changed to suit your taste or budget but a
little of the more costly ingredients goes a long way. A must-try from
this book.
Vietnamese Beef Hotpot will be the dish of choice for a no-cook (for
you) dinner party. There will be no complaints as your guests will be
doing the cooking for themselves. This is an Asian fondue, with the
meat being quickly poached in an aromatic stock. The beef is then
enclosed with a variety of garnishes in a rice-paper wrapper.
There are a few interesting desserts here and a favourite is Bananas
and Sago Pearls in Coconut Cream. No, it’s not like the sago pudding of
old school days – this recipe uses those large beads that have a unique
texture. Cooked bananas develop a flavour that is, well, more banana-y
than the fresh article. A mild and striking dessert.
Authentic Recipes from Vietnam is a marvellous introduction to the
remarkable food of this region of South East Asia. The dishes have
hints of other cultures combining to achieve something unique and
delightful. Those sandwiches might be fine in an emergency, but next
time you have a chance to eat Vietnamese try some cooked delights or,
even better, make an authentic meal at home.
Authentic Recipes from Vietnam
Authors: Trieu Thi Choi and Marcel Isaak
Published by: Periplus
ISBN 978-0-7946-0327-4
Authentic
Recipes
from
the
Philippines
This is a unique book considering a cuisine little known
in Europe. How frequently do we say “let’s go out for a Filipino”? Not
often, although the dishes would indeed appeal to Europeans as well as
Asians.
The Philippine archipelago is part of Southeast Asia and its location
has allowed for cultural and culinary influences from Malays, Arabs,
Chinese, Spaniards, Americans, Japanese and others. The Philippines
consists of more than 7000 islands and occupies an area of 1,850 square
kilometres, and they can boast one of the longest coastlines of any
country in the world; therefore most Filipinos live on or near the
coast.
Trade with Hokkien China was evident as early as the Song dynasty (1279
– 960 BC), long before the arrival of the Europeans. China introduced a
number of staple foods such as soy, tofu, bean sprouts, and fish sauce.
The Spanish added produce from the New World: chillies, tomatoes, corn,
potatoes. Spanish and Mexican dishes such as paella were eventually
adopted into Philippine cuisine.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines will inspire any lover of good
food. It has the vibrancy and culinary complexity of many Asian
cuisines but with those additional elements from the West. It’s a
gastronomic landscape that has evolved and grown over the centuries and
it’s the richer for it. There is much that is familiar but there is
still more that will intrigue and excite the reader.
There are several favourite recipes for practical and exotic meals
here. Cuban-style Rice with Meat Sauce and Plantains – Arroz la Cubana
– needs no special ingredients apart from the plantains, which can be
found in many high-street supermarkets or Asian or West Indian stores.
An attractive dish that even the kids will love. No expensive cuts of
meat, just minced pork and minced beef. A considerable step up from
your regular Wednesday night Spag Bol.
Chicken Adobo with Turmeric and Coconut Milk is the national dish of
the Philippines. If you have enjoyed dishes from Goa or Kerala then you
will appreciate this one. A simple preparation but that overnight
marinade time is important. A good recipe to make in advance for a
dinner party as well as a family meal. Reduce the number of chillies
for the young or timid.
Some rather classy desserts from Cafe Ysabel in Manila are offered, and
these would work as a finale for either an Asian or European meal.
Caramel-coated Egg Nuggets – Yema – are golden balls made from egg
yolks and evaporated milk, a much under-appreciated ingredient. These
are said to last up to 2 weeks in the fridge but it’s unlikely you’ll
have to keep them that long.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines will be a joy to Asian food
aficionados. The ingredients are for the most part familiar, and those
few that are unique to the Philippines can be found at specialist Asian
stores or online. A fascinating addition to any serious cookbook
collection.
Authentic Recipes from the Philippines
Author: Reynaldo G. Alejandro
Published by: Periplus
Price: £15.50
ISBN-10: 079460238X
ISBN-13: 978-0794602383
Authentic
Recipes from Malaysia
There are just a few Malaysian restaurants in London. I
have visited most of them and they range from high-end teak-polished
splendour to casual vinyl-topped practicality, but the food so far has
ranged from good to outstanding.
If you like Indian dishes then you will doubtless enjoy Malaysian food.
If Chinese cuisine is what you crave then Malaysian food will likely
comfort you. Nyonya food was developed by the Straits Chinese and
Peranakan (people of mixed Chinese/Malay ancestry) of Malaysia and
Singapore. Malaysian food is influenced mainly by the Chinese larder
but adds South-East Asian ingredients such as coconut milk, lemongrass,
turmeric, chillies and sambal. It has hints of those other cooking
traditions but it has developed as a respected culinary entity in its
own right.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia offers 62 easy-to-follow recipes that
will give an overview to anyone who wants to learn more about these
delicious dishes and their origins. The recipes are divided by food
type: snacks, salads, rice, meat, fish, desserts, etc. There is also a
glossary of ingredients and you will doubtless find all you will need
in your local Asian supermarket or online.
Roti Canai is one of my favourite breads. It’s light and flaky and the
ideal tool to mop up saucy curries. The professional makers of these
melting breads are artists. They stretch and twirl the thin dough and
fold as it’s cooking on the griddle. The authors offer a more practical
method but if you have a chance to watch the pros you might feel
tempted to indulge in a little airborne culinary theatre.
Seafood is found in abundance all year round in the waters surrounding
Malaysia. Butter Prawns is a contemporary dish which draws on all the
culinary influences of the region. The result is a rich and spicy
concoction that will have the diner licking both fingers and lips. A
simple and quick dish to prepare, ideal as a starter or served as
nibbles with drinks.
No “authentic” Malaysian cookbook would be complete without a version
of the perennial favourite, Beef Rendang. Lemongrass is the herb that
gives this spicy dish its distinct aromatic charm. It’s a slow-cooked
and meltingly tender beef creation that improves by being kept for a
day or so. A marvellous make-ahead meal for the family or for
entertaining.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia has inspiring recipes that will delight
anyone who has enjoyed flavourful and aromatic meals in Malaysian
restaurants, or those who have travelled to that delightful region and
want to replicate memorable dishes.
Authentic Recipes from Malaysia
Author: Wendy Hutton
Published by Periplus
ISBN-10: 0794602967
ISBN-13: 978-0794602963
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi
Bar - Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
There are lots of sushi bars in London but you will find
surprisingly few reviewed here. Well, to be honest I have visited quite
a few but the majority have been disappointing. Poor quality
ingredients or, even worse, good quality ingredients ruined. Meagre
portions carelessly presented have been the rule rather than the
exception.
I have been rather dragging my feet regarding Ichi Sushi and Sashimi
Bar. I hate having to give the PR company, and indeed the chef, bad
news. But, thank goodness, my worries were for once unfounded. Nothing
disappoints at Ichi (pronounced eechi).
The location is remarkable and the view is a stunner. Take the
Underground to Westminster and walk across the bridge. You will have
the London Eye and County Hall in front, as well as your destination,
The Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel. Ichi Sushi and Sashimi Bar is
on the 1st floor next to a vibrant and popular cocktail bar.
This is a small restaurant with seating at the sushi bar for those who
want a glimpse of Head Chef Okamoto Sadayuki working his slicing magic.
Tables accommodate those who want a less lofty perch, and a lucky few
might be able to grab the best table in the restaurant. This small
vantage point offers views on what would have been behind you on your
walk across Westminster Bridge. The tower of Big Ben (yes, dear
tourist, it’s the bell that’s called Big Ben) and the Houses of
Parliament. Their gothic facades are, in my opinion, at their best at
night when they are bathed in golden light.
All sushi bars have Sake but Ichi makes an effort. They offer a
changing menu of sakes that can be enjoyed at room temperature or
warmed. There are usually a couple of grain spirits as well, that are
interesting but best served with a mixer for a unique Japanese cocktail.
They have sakes here for those who love that particular and
characteristic flavour, but I would suggest trying Shockikubai Migori
for those who want a gentle introduction to this iconic beverage. It’s
soft with a suspicion of fruit. The percentage shown next to the name
of the sake on the menu isn’t an indication of its alcoholic content.
Sake rice is polished before it is used in brewing; the percentage
figure tells the buyer how much remains of the rice after the polishing
process.
Scallops Jalapeño was our starter. Sliced scallops with Momiji
(paprika) on top, with a delicate flavour of char from the grill –
perfectly cooked, rather than being rubbery which is more often the
result in less fastidious restaurants. These were garnished with mizuna
(Japanese brassica, popular for stir-fries or garnish; it is also
called Kyona or potherb mustard) served with lots of hot and spicy
Jalapeño sauce. A beautiful presentation and a dish that makes
the best of this shellfish.
Chef Okamoto offers all the usual suspects – California rolls, sushi
rolls, hand rolls and miso soup – but I would set him apart for most
other Japanese chefs: his attention to detail is admirable. Wasabi is
traditional and ubiquitous in every Japanese restaurant. It can be
purchased in powder form or in a paste made from the aforementioned
powder; but this chef uses fresh wasabi. There are very few restaurants
in London that go to the trouble of using the fresh root and it is
rather different and well worth trying.
If you are unfamiliar with sushi and the like then order from the
platter sections. We chose The Sushi Nigiri Platter and the Sashimi
Platter and these both were showcases for the chef’s evident skill. The
secret is simple – good knife skills partnered with an eye for
aesthetics.
Desserts here are light and predictably attractive. My guest ordered
the almond mousse. This had a topping of red beans that added texture
and a hint of the East. A sweet and delicious end to a delightful meal.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar is one of the few Japanese restaurants in
London to which I would be happy to return. Simple ingredients elevated
to give the diner a memorable culinary experience ...and don’t forget
the view.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
London
SE1 7UT
Opening Times
Lunch
Monday-Sunday 12:00-3:00pm
Dinner
Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30pm
1000 Places
to See Before You Die
Travel – it’s like a drug. If you have never travelled
then perhaps you can’t understand why anybody would. Home is cosy, safe
and you speak the language. But many of us have had the pleasure of
taking a trip and that sparks something within.
I was 11 years old when I first left my home country. A school exchange
trip offered me the privilege of staying with a family in Germany. The
food was different but I did love the new tastes. I was introduced to
Schnitzel and even wine. Yes, in those days children also could have a
little wine and no, I didn’t grow up an alcoholic – but that’s an
argument that can run and run.
We toured through vine-fringed valleys and along the Rhine. We visited
quaint towns and museums and discovered that there was more to the
world than just our small corner. As I grew older I wanted to explore
and experience and (mostly) enjoy all the wide world had to offer. 1000
Places to See Before You Die presents a bit of inspiration for future
travels.
This book will be the bedtime reading of choice for any would-be
traveller. Its chapters are divided into eight regions which are then
subdivided geographically. Plenty of essential information about
transport as well as addresses for tourist boards. You’ll likely want
to take advantage of excursions, so you’ll learn about the ones most
suited to your interests.
A perfectly planned trip can be ruined by just going at the wrong time.
Phrases like “you should have been here last week” or “you have just
missed...” or even worse “we are closed for the season”. You will want
to arrive just in time for that wine festival but perhaps you’ll be
glad to miss the National Tripe Festival. Weather is always a
consideration. The best time to visit the beaches of Goa is between
October and March, but go between December and January to see
traditional Christmas decorations and to enjoy the celebrations.
The Maharaja Palace Hotels are stunning. They are in the Rajasthan
region of India and a stay in these opulent surroundings will give you
a lifetime of memories. The Maharaja Express will show you a glimpse of
the train travel enjoyed by the rich in the past. Not a cheap option
but an outstanding experience.
One might prefer the serene beauty of Japan. The Sapporo Snow Festival
is unmissable, although there are various festivals throughout the
year. Hong Kong is a buzzing corner of China. It’s long been a Mecca
for those looking for retail opportunities as well as some of the best
Chinese and international food available. Talking of Mecca, you might
not be able to see much if you are a non-Muslim, although Old Jeddah
will give you an overview of Saudi Arabia.
Every country mentioned is described in tempting detail. This is
perhaps the book to buy should you be planning a world tour. Certainly
you will want to read some in-depth guides to cover your chosen
destinations, but the beauty of 1000 Places to See Before You Die is
that it highlights, well, the highlights of each country. You will
doubtless find your own treasures along the way and this book is just a
volume of possibilities ...and dreams.
1000 Places to See Before You Die
Author: Patricia Schultz
Published by: Workman
Price: $19.95
ISBN 978-07611-5686-4
Mr Todiwala’s
Kitchen – Terminal 5 Hilton
There are many Mr Todiwalas strewn around the world but
there is also “THE” Mr. Todiwala. It’s a familiar
name to those who
know anything about Indian food in the UK. His iconic
restaurant Café Spice Namaste at Tower Hill, and his numerous TV
appearances, have assured his high profile; but it’s not his celebrity
that has garnered such a faithful following.
Cyrus Todiwala is a chef, and the showbizzy bit isn’t much in evidence
in his restaurants. Yes, ‘restaurants’ plural, as now there is the
eponymous Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen at the new Heathrow Terminal 5 Hilton
Hotel. He is just the same as ever, visible in the restaurant rather
than remaining aloof as the majority of celeb
chefs tend to be. He takes notice and cares about his guests.
We arrived on a cold and wet evening to find both Mr and Mrs Todiwala
on duty. The “missus” is Pervin and she is one of the unsung heroes of
both restaurant teams. She has a phenomenal memory for the previous
meals ordered by guests. She is herself a trained chef and has the same
passion for food and fresh produce as does her husband. She is a
consummate professional but with a warm personality and a sense of
humour which has endeared her to diners.
C and P Todiwala were staying later than they had planned, as one of
their regulars (to have ‘regulars’ already in a little over a month
speaks volumes) had asked for something a little different, something
not on the menu. No problem at Mr. Todiwala's Kitchen. The guest is
just as important as the food. I
don’t want to give the impression that the table staff hover too
closely or watch your every move from a distance. The
service is appropriately attentive, with a good number of waiting staff
who are indistinguishable from the chefs. OK, the chef jackets and
taupe aprons are spotless but one has the impression that each dish has
been made and delivered fresh from the open kitchen just for you
...which indeed it has.
So that’s introduced my readers to the stars, but what of the new
stage? When I dream of exotic spots I have a vision of a bungalow (an
Indian word), sun-bleached shutters, lime-washed floors, rustic
furniture, sumptuous soft furnishings and an elephant called Roy. In
truth, I have just added the animally element after visiting Mr.
Todiwala’s Kitchen, but all the rest of it is indeed also there.
The huge wooden elephant is just about the only overtly
Indian adornment in this stunning restaurant. It’s light and
stylish
with
a
hint
of
colonial
charm.
You
know
it’s an Indian dining
room so the style can just be a testament to good design taste, as the
kitchen is to all things culinary.
Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen offers an extensive menu but if you are new to
Indian food, as many at this airport restaurant might
well be, then consider Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen Menu which will give you
an overview. This menu is bound to be popular with rugby players – or
American Football players – as the main dishes can be continually
replenished. There is also a Gourmand Tasting Menu for those who want a
food-and-wine pairing experience.
Cyrus is Parsee and he has incorporated some of his family dishes into
his menu. In fact there is much that will be new to even the most
ardent of “curry” enthusiasts. Papaeta Purr Eedu is a recipe from
Cyrus’ mum who was a great influence on his culinary repertoire. This
dish incorporates both potatoes and eggs, two ingredients
that
no
Parsee
would
want
to
live
without.
This
is real comfort food,
with ginger and cumin as the main flavourings. The vegetables are topped
Mankyo Chem Peri Peri or “dynamite” squid is vibrant with heat. Baby
squid rings are marinated in a fiery Goan peri-peri masala then dipped
in wheat, rice and white lentil flour. The squid is fried and garnished
with more red Goan-style spices. This is one of the hottest dishes on
the menu but there is also flavour that shines through the heat.
Dhaansaak was bound to be my guest’s choice of main course. He enjoys
all Indian food but he does find the Dhaansaak at either venue to be
unmissable. This is a classic Parsee lamb dish, prepared in the
traditional way. Dhaansaak is composed of two words: ‘dhaan’ meaning
rice and ‘saak’ meaning puréed vegetables and lentils with lamb.
The rice served with the meat is different from your regular steamed or
boiled rice. It’s a brown onion rice, which has
a flavour of its own. The lamb was meltingly tender but there were some
small and delicate meatballs in addition. These were peppery and
moreish and alone would have been a delight with just the sauce and
that celebrated onion rice.
Keeping with the theme I also chose another Parsee favourite, a recipe
from Cyrus’ great-grandma. Murghi Na Kofta Ni Curry Nay Chaawal is a
rich and aromatic dish with lots of ground nuts to make a silky sauce
to coat moist chicken dumplings. Simply served with steamed rice, this
sauce would have been just as good with some Indian bread. A winner.
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen offers some tempting desserts and a little
different from those you will find in most Indian restaurants. The
ice-creams are unique and there are a couple that I will sample on my
next visit. Black Pepper Ice Cream sounds intriguing as does the Stem
Ginger Ice Cream, but we chose the Parsee Caramelised Apricot version,
which was delicately perfumed by the slowly cooked Hunza apricots so favoured
by
Indian
chefs.
The
Zafrani
Crème
Brulée
was
memorable.
A
golden-coloured cream with flavour
from,
well,
saffron
but
also
cardamom,
to
which
I
am addicted. The
caramelised topping was perfect and was evenly speckled with dark burnt
sugar. A simple and sophisticated dessert.
Mr. Todiwala‘s Kitchen boasts an Indian Tea Library. This is actually a
changing list of exceptional boutique teas that will delight the
connoisseur and educate the rest of us. We tried Makaibari Estate First
Flush Grand Reserve 2011 from Darjeeling. Makaibari is located at
Kurseong, and was the world's first tea factory, established in 1859.
Rajah Banerjee, the fourth generation, is now the owner.
We were expecting a special cuppa, but there was also theatre and a
thoroughly engaging masterclass. A tray arrived laid with white linen
and brandy glasses. I was starting to think this might be a misplaced
order for those chunky American businessmen a couple of tables down. No
error, these were just some of the props for the unique brewing process.
The glasses were warmed over steam while hot water was poured over the
chosen leaves contained in a handmade ceramic pot. The slowly trickling
sand in an egg-timer showed the passing of a couple of minutes. Once
the infusion was complete the heated glass was filled with the light
amber tea. Yes, it truly was a step up from your habitual dusty teabag.
I preferred the first pouring as I felt it had more taste notes and
less tannin. If you are into strong builder’s tea then you might like
the darker and gutsier second brew. Tea at Mr. Todiwala’s is an event.
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is an outstanding example of a remarkable
restaurant that just happens to be housed in a
hotel. Gone are the days when hotel restaurants were mediocre and dull
with a focus on merely fuelling a captive
audience. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen can compete with any Indian restaurant.
Nothing mean, skimpy or banal here. This is an apt showcase for the
talents of the Todiwalas – Mr and Mrs.
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen
Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5
Poyle Road
Colnbrook SL3 0FF,
United Kingdom
Open:
18:00-22:30
Closed Sunday
Easy Chinese Recipes
To any home cook that title might sound attractive – Easy
Chinese Recipes – but to a reviewer who is a passionate cook that very
same title can cause worries. Is this going to be a book with its focus
on convenience foods? Could it be sub-titled “Make Friends with your
Microwave”? The reality is far from that.
Bee Yinn Low is the guiding light behind one of the internet’s most
successful Asian food blogs. She was born in Malaysia but her Chinese
heritage finds her well placed to educate the rest of us. She takes
advantage of products that all Chinese cooks enjoy these days. Nothing
wrong with a bottle of good quality sauce when added to delicately
balanced spices and fresh ingredients. You’ll be cooking in the same
way as they do all over Asia.
Bee loved cooking but she didn’t have unlimited time to spend in the
kitchen so she sought out the best recipes to adapt to a modern Western
life. Her recipes taste authentic but you don’t need a diploma from the
culinary institute in Shanghai to accomplish them, and all the
ingredients will likely be in your local supermarket, Asian emporium or
the internet.
I love the dishes of Sichuan. They have a reputation for being pungent
and laden with red chilli. Bee offers Sichuan Spicy Chicken – La Zi Ji
– which is adapted from an original Chinese restaurant recipe from
Chongqing, the capital of Sichuan. It uses 20 dried chillies and that
is the toned-down version. Try the recipe with this many and then
increase or decrease the spice to suit. Chilli is addictive so don’t be
surprised if your tolerance mounts over time.
Chicken with Garlic Sauce has much less chilli but there is real punch
from the garlic: 3 or 4 cloves, but don’t be shy with that main
flavouring ingredient. This is a colourful dish that will fill your
home with the most enticing aromas while it’s cooking. An economic meal
but striking enough to impress dinner guests.
Fresh Mango Pudding is a popular Chinese dessert these days. It is
simple to prepare and has sweetness from the fruit pulp and richness
from the evaporated milk. Bee suggests a tablespoon of evaporated milk
as a garnish on top of these set pots, but one could also use some
slices of mango or a handful of dark berries. A delightful make-ahead
dessert.
Easy Chinese Recipes is full of delicious dishes that won’t take hours
to produce. There is something for every palate from the searingly
spicy to the mellow and aromatic. A book for those with good taste and
little time.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Chinese Recipes
Author: Bee Yinn Low
Published by Tuttle Publishing
Price: £24.00
ISBN-10: 0804841470
ISBN-13: 978-080484147-4
Modern Thai Food
This is a large-format volume with some of the most
stunning food photography I have ever seen. Jeremy Simons takes
advantage of full pages to present the most exquisite close-ups. A
simple Ginger Martini is beautiful in its organic whiteness, and the
Egg Net Rolls with Pork and Shrimp bursts with colour and linen-like
texture.
But you’ll want to buy Modern Thai Food for its recipes and these don’t
disappoint either. The author Martin Boetz runs Longrain Restaurant and
Bar in Sydney, and this book reflects his interpretation of
contemporary Thai food garnished with some Australian inspiration.
You’ll have no problem finding the ingredients in the UK; most of them
will already be familiar to you and those more obscure ones will be on
the shelves of your local Asian emporium.
Martin starts with a chapter on basic condiments and pastes that you
will need for the recipes that follow, and I will be making Pickled
Ginger first. It’s a garnish for salads but I would add this to steamed
rice as well. Another garnish is the simple Roasted Chilli, Sugar and
Salt. Use this to sprinkle over fried calamari or over nuts for a
moreish snack.
All the dishes here are tempting and some of them are classics or
Martin’s interpretations thereof, and a couple of the grilled meat
dishes are liable to join my list of regular dinners. Grilled Beef
Curry with Peanuts: 200g of rump steak will feed 4 people, with a side
dish of rice. The same weight of pork will give you the main ingredient
for the fresh and sweet Grilled Pork Pineapple Curry. One can pick up a
pineapple for less than a pound for most of the year in Asian
supermarkets, and this recipe only uses a quarter of it. Non-pork
eaters can replace the meat with some seafood.
Martin offers a couple of exotic ice creams to finish your Thai meal,
or any meal. Palm Sugar Ice Cream needs no garnishing and has few
ingredients. Palm sugar is dark and rich and is well worth seeking out
for this delicious recipe. If you fancy something a little less
caramelly then try the Passionfruit Ice Cream. Its base is the same
custard as the Palm Sugar Ice Cream but it replaces the palm sugar with
some passionfruit pulp.
But back to that aforementioned Ginger Martini. Yes, the photograph is
striking but so is the drink. Clean and light with a vibrant hit from
the spice. This is my pick of the book and will doubtless be this
yuletide’s beverage of choice. A winning cocktail from a worthy book.
Asian cookbook review: Modern Thai Food
Author: Martin Boetz
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-0-8048-4229-7
Hashi – A
Japanese cookery course
I have reviewed many a cookbook and a good number of these
have been Japanese, but it’s the first time I have looked up from my
half-finished draft to see the author of the object of my labours
gracing my TV screen. Reiko Hashimoto is on New British Kitchen and
demonstrating sushi. I know that Absolute Press is an amazing publisher
but I must add that their timing is impeccable.
Reiko was born in Kyoto to a traditional Japanese family with a mum
who has transmitted her own passion for Japanese cooking and food.
Reiko moved to the UK to study but instead of going into a dry and
boring profession she became an air hostess. She was based in Hong Kong
so had all the culinary exposure that metropolis has to offer.
Travelling also gave Reiko the opportunity to broaden her gastronomic
horizons and she eventually decided on a career in teaching Japanese
cooking.
Reiko moved to London and launched a company called ‘HASHI’ offering
Japanese cooking courses and catering Japanese food for dinner parties
and events. Reiko has now been teaching for over a decade; she offers
classes to raw beginners but also to those who have a little more
experience.
Although I mentioned that Reiko demonstrated sushi on the “John Torode
Show”, she also presented cooked dishes. Sushi and sashimi are common
in the UK these days and many people assume that’s all the Japanese
eat. In truth there is a large and tempting array of dishes that are
healthy and delicious, and the ingredients are available in
supermarkets or online.
Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is a big, bold and brilliant book
with a chunky square format. Black-edged pages and heavy title type
make this a striking volume. Plenty of photography to give a bit of
inspiration to the novice home cook, and the majority of the recipes
are surprisingly short.
The recipes here are broad-based and do constitute a cookery course.
Those unfamiliar with Japanese dishes can hone their skills on the
simple dishes before progressing to those which are a little more
demanding, although there is nothing here that would terrify the
Western home cook.
My favourite recipe is that for Donburi. This is a bowl of hot rice
with a topping – a real dinner dish. The author offers several versions
of this popular meal but my pick-of-the-bunch is Oyako-Donburi. It’s
chicken cooked in dashi, mirin, sugar and saké and then beaten
egg is added. Mild and comforting and a hot meal that even the kids
will request. That’s gotta be a reason to buy this book.
Hashi – A Japanese cookery course is one of the most accessible
Japanese cookbooks around. Reiko lives in London so she is aware of
available ingredients and the tastes of the local population. Her
experience as a teacher allows her to engage with the reader and
encourage them to have a go. A lovely gift for any Japanese food
aficionado.
Asian cookbook review: Hashi – A Japanese cookery course
Author: Reiko Hashimoto
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781906650575
Indonesian Cooking – Satays,
Sambals and more
It’s a surprise to me that Indonesian cuisine is not more
popular, especially in Europe’s cosmopolitan cities. It has so much to
recommend it. The spices are familiar and there is nothing shocking or
intimidating. If you love Thai food you will enjoy Indonesian food. If
Indian dishes are what you crave then Indonesian curries could be your
new comfort dishes.
To say that Indonesian food is a cross between this and that would
undervalue the sophistication and unique complexity of its culinary
traditions. We use those examples of Thai and Indian only to indicate a
spice palate but Indonesian food is its own entity with remarkable
dishes offering specific flavour characteristics.
Indonesia is on the ancient spice route, and has therefore had culinary
influences from not only India and Thailand but also the Middle East
and China. The Spanish and Portuguese traders added New World foods and
the Dutch colonisers threw in a few ideas.
Yes, sure, OK, but can I get the ingredients if I live in a field in
middle England? The spices are those with which you are already
familiar. There might be just a few for which you might need the
services of a specialist Asian store, but the internet will also
provide all your Indonesian needs.
There are a couple of dishes that you will likely have already come
across: Nasi Lemak – traditional coconut rice platter, Nasi Goreng –
classic fried rice. This is real accessible family cooking that is
aromatic rather than overly spicy. A flavourful meal that even the kids
will enjoy.
Babi Manis – caramelized pork – is a recipe with few ingredients and
it’s a simple process to produce a rich and glossy dish with a hint of
spice, which can be adjusted to your taste. 600g of pork loin will be
enough to feed 4 people, along with some steamed rice.
My pick-of-the-book is the recipe for Sambal Cumi – Spicy
Sautéed Calamari. This is a tangy preparation using tamarind as
a sharp flavouring and sambal oelek for heating spice. It’s a simple
recipe but the results are sophisticated enough for a dinner party.
Indonesian Cooking – Satays, Sambals and more is a colourful
introduction to an overlooked cuisine. These dishes are simple to make,
and they are delicious and different.
Asian cookbook review: Indonesian Cooking – Satays, Sambals and more
Author: Dina Yuen
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: $16.95
ISBN-10: 0804841454
ISBN-13: 978-0804841450
Serene Gardens
What vision do we have when we think of Japan? Well, in
truth there will likely be a few images. If we are into anime
there
will
be
cartoon
characters.
The
food
lovers
will
doubtless
conjure
a
plate of sushi, and many others will say that a graceful
geisha will be on their list. Show all of those folks a picture of a
typical Japanese garden and they will all recognise it as being an
iconic emblem of the culture of that country.
In fact there is more than one style of traditional garden and they are
all striking and mostly low maintenance once constructed. There are the
calming and minimalist Zen gardens with carefully-placed rocks adrift
in a sea of precisely-raked gravel or sand. The Tea Garden can be small
but full not only of plants but also structures, and perhaps the sound
of water to set the scene for that important cup of tea. There is an
index of plants that you will be able to find in your local garden
centre, and a list of addresses for the delivery of those huge boulders
as well as bamboo fences.
We are often, in Europe, limited by space and climate so perhaps the
most practical garden is the Courtyard Garden. If you are lucky enough
to have a larger garden then you can build this courtyard into one
corner with views, perhaps, from the sitting room. Create an intimate
space with some plants, rocks and moss which will grow happily in a
small shady area. Don’t think for a moment that this is necessarily an
easy option. You won’t need to mow it every Sunday morning but it will
need to be watered frequently.
A small Zen rock garden might be a weekend project but those other
gardens will evolve and mature with time. Serene Gardens – creating
Japanese design and detail in the Western garden, is a manual of
practical advice and ideas to enable you to turn your dream into
reality.
Asian book review: Serene Gardens
Author: Yoko Kawaguchi
Published by: New Holland
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-916-2
Wagamama Richmond
Richmond, Surrey, is classy, there is no doubt of that.
Its long riverside terraces attract those wanting a river view along with a glass or two of
something summery. OK, that’s true when the sun’s shining, but summer
is short and the weather gets cool. However, the well-appointed high
street is buzzing all year round and has a few places to eat hot food
that are worth investigating.
Central Richmond is the domain of many a chain eatery but these are not
created equal. There are several that offer “international” cuisine and
a couple with an Italian bias, and they each have their followers, but
the one that seems to have the most universal appeal and the most loyal
of regulars is Wagamama, which has been voted an official 'coolbrand'
for 2011.
I admit, to my shame, that this was the first visit I had ever made to
a Wagamama in the UK, or indeed anywhere in the world, for it is a
worldwide phenomenon. I believe that it has avoided the Asian market as
the menu is designed to appeal to Westerners rather than competing with
“authentic” restaurants in Japan. It’s described as a pan-Asian
restaurant but its style is that of the casual Japanese Ramen bars
...although those noodles originated in China!
Wagamama is the brainchild of Alan Yau. Today there are 90 branches in
13 different countries, spread across five continents. Alan Yau OBE was
born in Hong Kong and is one of London’s most successful businessmen.
He is also the founder Hakkasan and Yauatcha, as well as Thai
restaurant Busaba Eathai, one of my favourites, and a Chinese noodle
bar named Cha Cha Moon. Alan is truly a pan-Asian restaurateur.
The Richmond branch of Wagamama has an almost anonymous door to a small
lobby with stairs and a lift to the 1st floor restaurant. It has 108
covers and is furnished with bench seating and communal tables. Its
décor is minimalist but the warm wood prevents the space from
feeling cold and too Zen. This might not be the spot for an intimate
romantic dinner as your table could hold strangers as the evening
progresses.
We arrived at 6.30pm and few tables were taken, but more chilled and
hungry diners arrived as the time passed. Lots of these folks were
evidently regulars and placed their food orders without even a glance
at the menu. That’s always a good sign in these
days of healthy competition.
The drinks menu offers a good selection of soft drinks and juices; the
wine list is what you would expect from a casual restaurant and
included all the popular choices. You will be here for the food rather
than drinks but the Asian beers will be the draw for the aficionado.
Asahi super dry, Kirin ichiban, Tiger beer are all here. Half a dozen
teas for those not wanting alcohol, and the green tea is free.
The list of dishes was interesting and a welcome change from sushi.
Noodles and rice are here as the cornerstones of Wagamama. There are no
starters listed but small plates that can be side dishes or nibbles
before your main course, although each dish will be delivered to your
table as it is ready rather than in order.
Chilli Squid was our first small dish. Deep-fried squid seasoned with
sea salt and shichimi and served with a chilli and coriander dipping
sauce was attractive and delicious. The batter was light and the
seasoning vibrant. Good presentation and attention to detail.
Chicken Tama Rice – grilled chicken breast stir-fried with courgettes,
mushrooms, spring onions in a garlic and wine sauce – was my guest’s
choice of main dish. This was served on sticky white rice and was a
substantial portion of delicately charred meat and vegetables. Good
flavour from the mushrooms that really did taste of something.
I have reviewed a couple of Wagamama cookbooks and I have readers on a
daily basis searching the net for a recipe for “Chilli Men”. This was
the dish that I was looking forward to trying for myself. What was all
the fuss about? Chilli Men – stir-fried chicken or prawns, courgettes,
red onions, peppers, mushrooms and mange-tout in a spicy tomato chilli
men sauce, served on soba noodles – was the focus of all this internet
attention. I can now understand the appeal. This well-balanced dish has
heat that doesn’t mask the aromatic lemongrass. It’s popular for a very
good reason!
Sweet Ginger and Apple Gyoza was new to the dessert menu and was
tempting on such a cold winter’s night. Another hefty portion that was
enough for the two of us. Five deep-fried ginger and apple gyoza,
dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with vanilla custard sauce. The
ginger was fragrant and exotic. Worth ordering.
Everybody raves about Wagamama and it does indeed have lots to
recommend it. Great food and service in an appealing environment. Any
criticism? Yes – there isn’t one in my town.
The author is Debra Samuels. Doesn’t sound very Japanese,
does it? Well, perhaps not, but her credentials are impeccable as this
lady has spent a decade or so living in Japan and learning to cook in
home kitchens. She is ideally placed to pen a book for the European
market as she appreciates which recipes translate well and which
techniques will be new to the reader.
Debra has a passion for Japanese food and wants to make it accessible
to all of us who are becoming more interested in this fascinating
cuisine. There are lots more Japanese restaurants around (it’s a shame
that they are of patchy quality) so we have had the chance to try the
food for ourselves.
Unfortunately we are led to believe that Japanese food consists of
sushi ...or sashimi for those who want to push the envelope. Surely
that can’t be all they eat in Japan? No, indeed, my dear inquisitive
gastronaut. There are plenty of hot dishes that constitute real meals
and will introduce the reader to home cooking from Japan, rather than
restaurant standard fare.
Debra does start off with sushi and the like, just to ease her audience
into the subject, but there is a tempting rice-based alternative that
can be described as the Japanese equivalent of a sandwich. Onigiri are
stuffed balls of rice that make ideal picnic snacks or fillings for a
Bento box – Japanese packed meals. Debra suggests Spicy Tuna Salad as
the stuffing but this would work with any soft full-flavoured meat or
fish.
Another Japanese staple is Sweet Soy Beef and Onion Rice Bowl. 500g of
beef will provide a substantial meal for 4 people. Just a little
marinating time and a bit of wok or frying pan action and you’ll have a
flavoursome topping for steamed rice. It’s a family-friendly meal that
will appeal to the kids. The grated apple adds a slight sweetness which
is unique and delicious.
Asian desserts are always a problem but there are a few delights here
that would work well for any type of Asian meal. Cool and refreshing
Matcha Ice Cream has a delicate yet distinct taste and acts as a light
palate cleanser after Japanese food or even an Indian meal. So easy to
make if one owns an ice-cream maker. Matcha is that traditional vivid
green tea of Tea Ceremony fame. It’s sold, along with other Japanese
specialities, in larger Asian supermarkets.
My Japanese Table is written with the Western housewife in mind.
Nothing too taxing here and this book presents recipes that will be
welcomed by your family but also by your dinner party guests, who will
marvel at your new menus. No need to tell them that you hardly spent
any time at all on prep. Go on, be a hero.
Asian cookbook review: My Japanese Table
Author: Debra Samuels
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
Price: £27.50
ISBN 978-4-8053-1118-9
Furoshiki – The
art of wrapping with fabric
This is an ancient practice that seems to be very trendy
now in Europe. I first came across it when a friend arrived from
Marseille. She is a lady of impeccable taste and owns a shop filled
with stylish and interesting goods. I had high hopes of a classy gift
and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this square of material.
“Nice,” I said, with as much enthusiasm as this confused reviewer could
muster. “Just what I wanted,” I lied, but thankfully help and an
explanation was at hand before I contemplated saying “This would make
an exemplary family heirloom.”
Furoshiki is, just as the title implies, the ancient art of wrapping
with fabric. A square of material can wrap all manner of things as well
as becoming, with the use of some deft knotting, a handbag or a
shoulder bag.
Gone are the days when we could go to any supermarket and expect a
plastic bag for free. Many people choose to take along their own fabric
bag instead of adding to landfill. A medium Furoshiki bag can hold all
that a regular plastic bag could, and will look considerably more
exotic. All the knots needed for a shopping bag, a backpack, a bottle
carrier and a book bag are illustrated, and with a little practice you
will be going out with a handbag and returning with a shopping bag,
with just a little re-knotting mid-outing.
Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric is a unique book for those
who want to be ahead of the trend. Nothing much to buy – just hem some
squares of material and you have versatile bags that you can coordinate
with your equally trendy (does anyone really use that word these days?)
clothes.
Book review: Furoshiki – The art of wrapping with fabric
Author: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Published by: New Holland
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-816-5
Saké
We in the West are becoming more familiar with
Saké. There are now many more Japanese restaurants in our cities
and all of them will have a drinks menu that will include a saké
or two. It’s the Japanese national alcoholic beverage and most people
already know that it’s made of rice.
Yes, it’s called saké in the English-speaking world and in most
other countries as well, but in Japan that word refers to every form of
alcohol. The Japanese term for this specific drink is Nihonshu which
just means "Japanese alcohol".
Saké is an ancient drink that started as more of a food. Rice
was first chewed and then fermented. The earliest reference to alcohol
in Japan is found in “The Book of Wei” written by Wei Shou from 551 to
554 and is a text in Chinese. Saké is also referred to in the
“Kojiki”, written by Ō no Yasumaro at the request of Empress Gemmei,
Japan's earliest history document, which dates from around 711. By the
Asuka period (from 592 to 710) saké as we know it was being made
from the traditional ingredients of rice, water and yellow kōji mould
(Aspergillus oryzae). In the Heian period (from 794 to 1185)
saké was a drink reserved for religious ceremony and not made
for popular consumption.
Saké production was a government monopoly for centuries, but in
the 1100s temples were allowed to produce saké, and they became
the key producers for the next 500 years.
Sake is regularly described as rice wine but, unlike the wine that one
would make from grapes, saké is produced via a brewing method
similar to that of beer. The sugar necessary to produce alcohol must
first be converted from rice starch. The difference in alcohol content
between wine, beer and saké is that table wine usually has 8 to
14% alcohol, beer has 3 to 6%, whilst saké has 12 to 18% alcohol.
During the Meiji Restoration (restoring imperial rule to Japan in
1868), laws allowed anybody set up their own saké breweries.
Around 30,000 of them opened across Japan, and most that continued past
this era were those operated by wealthy landowners who grew table rice.
They would have some of their crop left over at the end of the season
and, rather than wasting the grain, they sent it to their breweries to
be made into saké.
When in World War II Japan found itself short of rice for
saké-making, alcohol was added to increase its volume. As early
as the late 17th century it had been discovered that small amounts of
alcohol could be added to saké before pressing to extract more
flavour from the rice, but during the War pure alcohol and glucose were
added, to considerably increase the saké yield. The majority of
modern saké is now made with additional alcohol.
In Japan saké is served chilled, at room temperature, or warm,
depending on the custom of the drinker, the quality of the sake, and
the weather. Warm or hot saké is popular when it’s cold outside
and it’s said that heating improves a poor bottle of saké. The
best quality saké is never consumed hot because it’s considered
that the flavour would be impaired.
Saké is usually drunk from traditional small cups called o
choko. These are stemless and usually ceramic, and many have become
collectors’ items. They were preferred as there was less chance of them
being upturned by the swinging sleeves of those wearing elaborate
kimonos. Stemmed glasses are now sometimes used for the finest
saké and one finds them used increasingly for saké
tasting. It is the custom for guests to serve others rather than
themselves. Another traditional drinking vessel is the wooden masu.
This is a small square box usually made of Japanese cedar, and was
originally used as a one-portion measure for rice.
Saké at home is best kept refrigerated or in a cool
cupboard. If stored at room temperature it is best enjoyed within
a couple of months as it is believed that saké does not age
well, although there are now some bottles that are considered to
improve with age. After opening, a bottle of saké remains at its
best a little longer than would wine, but should still be consumed as
soon as possible.
The Saké
Handbook
Saké has become more popular than ever in both
restaurants and bars. One can find good quality saké by the
bottle and made into cocktails, but there are surprisingly few books in
English on the subject of saké and its production. John Gauntner
is considered an authority and has penned The Saké Handbook
which is an indispensible introduction and buying guide to those who
have not had the advantage of a formal sommelier course.
The Saké Handbook describes the history, brewing methods and
labels, encouraging the reader to buy a selection of bottles to sample
and compare. There is really no substitute for actually drinking
saké to discover its complexity. Its distinctive taste is unique
but it is now being more readily paired with food, which is bound to be
a source of fascination to anyone interested in expanding their
epicurean horizons.
The Saké Sommelier Association is a body set up to promote
saké throughout the world. They offer a single-day course in
London every year to introduce those of us who know nothing about the
drink to the world of saké. You will learn its history and the
changes of production methods down the ages. Most importantly you will
have the chance to sample a dozen or so different styles of saké
with a tutor who will guide you through the subtle nuances of each and
compare them, to give the student a comprehensive overview of Japan’s
national beverage. There are longer courses available for those who
want to sit an exam to become certified saké sommeliers. Future
dates and times for these courses will be posted here as they are
announced.
Isake is an important site for those who want to try some of the best
sakés available in the UK http://www.isake.co.uk
The Saké Handbook
Author: John Gauntner
Published by: Tuttle
ISBN 978-0-8048-3425-4
I am indeed an unashamed supporter of The Dorchester. Not
that they exactly need my patronage but I want to nail my colours to
their mast. It’s quality writ large and it never disappoints. If you
are looking for classic service and
charm
then
you
will
appreciate
its
every
plush
cushion
and
impressive
vase.
The Dorchester dates back to 1931 and is a vision of polished good Deco
taste with a hint of Victoriana. There is more evocative décor
in the basement. No, it’s not a storage room for discarded furniture –
it’s the very classy China Tang, The Dorchester’s iconic Chinese
restaurant (yes, the name does give a clue to its ethnicity).
Sir David Tang, KBE, is a successful Hong Kong businessman and
socialite best known as the founder of the Shanghai Tang fashion chain,
which he sold in 2006, as well as China Clubs in Hong Kong, Peking and
Singapore.
Sir David is obviously a “hands-on” owner. He has been at the forefront
of the restaurant design as well as taking a passionate interest in the
most important area – the kitchen. He has not only selected the best
chefs from Hong Kong for his eponymous
restaurant, he has also composed a menu to reflect the finest of
Cantonese cooking.
I know it’s just a matter of taste, visual and culinary, but I consider
China Tang to be one of the most remarkable restaurants in London. One
is wafted back to the China of the 20s and 30s, when armies of modern
“bright young things” sipped cocktails and listened to daring jazz.
Shanghai and other Chinese cities were magnets for the jet set, well,
OK, in the days before jets.
Sir David has ensured that every guest has a multi-sensory experience.
China Tang is striking and eclectic and gives the air of one of those
refined restaurants of a bygone age. One can feast one’s eyes on objets
d'art and admire the gold-embroidered table linen and metal chopsticks;
everything carefully chosen for impact but also practicality. The low
ceilings create a cosy ambiance and the buzz of animated conversation
adds to the general excitement.
Every Tuesday, China Tang offers an evening of very live jazz in the
main dining room, featuring the celebrated duo Kitty La Roar and Nick
of Time performing music that will add still more to the sensation of
being transported back in time. “Slow Boat to China” and “A Little
Street in Singapore” are just so right for China Tang, and Kitty is
stunning in a tight black Chinese Cheongsam which has the male diners
riveted before she even warbles a word ...and what a voice!
http://www.kittyandnick.co.uk/#
China Tang is said to offer some of the most authentic Cantonese food
outside China. I was expecting something special: The Dorchester would
not tolerate a naff version of your local high-street “Happy San-Pan”.
China Tang doesn’t fiddle with food. No mounds of rice moulded into the
two doves of Willow Pattern fame here. No miniature junks ploughing the
waves of one’s Hot and Sour soup. Each dish is simply presented and
served sans elaborate garnish. The chef doesn’t need to distract you.
Fresh ingredients are
cooked
to
perfection.
The menu offers Cantonese classics so you will find many dishes that
sound familiar but I can guarantee that they will be the best examples
of those dishes you will ever taste. Try some steamers of dim sum. The
dough will be thin and delicate and the fillings aromatic and refined.
I particularly enjoyed the pork dumplings, the meat bathed in
flavourful broth. A must-try starter is Taro Cakes. These are light and
crunchy and thoroughly moreish. I have had them before but these at
China Tang are addictive. They look like they are made of that
finely-shredded pastry often found topping Middle-Eastern patisserie.
Peking Duck is a signature dish. It’s a delicious extravaganza of
glossy mahogany skin (the exact hue of the wooden chairs: how did Sir
David manage that?) and moist meat. Then there is the theatre of
watching your deft waitress carve the bird: slivers of lacquered skin
and then slices of succulent meat. The remainder of the duck will be
minced with seasonings and a few other ingredients and served with
lettuce for wraps. This is just as much an event as a dish.
China Tang is famous, and rightly so, for its Stir-fried Beef in Black
Pepper. This dish was a rich triumph of glazed cubes of meat flecked
with black. The flavour was agreeably pungent from the pepper and the
texture was melting. This needed no garnish other than some rice, and
they have bamboo pots of that, of various sorts.
Fukien Rice is a traditional dish but seldom seen on menus of lesser
restaurants. It’s a rich seafood stew atop rice, a meal in itself and
well worth saving some space for. I would suggest trying dishes that
you might not find elsewhere. They will be faithful and authentic
examples.
Desserts are usually a bit thin on the ground in Chinese restaurants
but China Tang has some delightful, Asian inspired sweets. Their
Chocolate Steamed Dumplings are legendary, they shine and tempt; while
the Green Tea Mousse was light and perfumed. The Black Tea Ice Cream
was refreshing with still a pleasant touch of tannin. Balls of fresh
papaya completed this quartet of miniature desserts.
I’ll grant you, China Tang isn’t the cheapest restaurant around but
it’s still good value for money. One is paying not only
for delectable food but also for an exceptional experience. We will
return to have a meal in the bar – it offers the same
menu as the main restaurant – and try some signature cocktails. This is
on my list of favourite restaurants visited in 2011.
China Tang opening hours
Lunch:
Monday to Friday: 11:00 am to 3:30 pm
Saturday and Sunday: 11:00 am to 4:00 pm
Dinner:
Monday to Sunday: 5:30 pm to 12:00 midnight
Bookings for Lunch and Dinner are strongly recommended; to reserve a
table call:
+44 (0) 20 7629 9988
China Tang at The Dorchester,
Park Lane, Mayfair, London W1K 1QA
Phone: 0871 971 3579
Visit China Tang here
Banana Tree – Soho
This summer William Chow opened his sixth and latest
branch of Banana Tree and this time in Soho, that bastion of Chinese
cuisine of variable quality. He has remained true to his original
concept and has his focus on Indochinese food. The chain has been
around for 20 years, and to open a new restaurant in these desperate
times shows continued confidence in the brand.
The new restaurant is on Wardour Street and here there is a link with
William Chow. The street was named after Sir Archibald Wardour who was
an architect and designed some of the buildings along the thoroughfare.
William was himself an architect, but he left that career to follow his
passion for food. He played a leading part in the interior design of
the latest branch and it does indeed have impact. It’s not a temple to
teak and there are no nodding luck-giving dogs, no ethnically-clad
dusky lovelies to welcome the diner; In fact it’s a very contemporary
space with tasteful techie lighting, imposing ceiling pipework and an
acre or so of grey cement. The overall impression isn’t of cold
minimalism but rather a functional restaurant that takes much of its
ambiance from the buzz of diners.
Banana Tree is evidently a casual eatery. Its high communal benches
offer convivial spaces for groups in the evenings. There are plenty of
tables for 4 but be aware that if you are alone you might find that you
are joined by strangers as the restaurant fills. You will have at least
one thing in common with the new arrivals – love of good food.
The prices here are very reasonable and the menu offers a wide choice
of traditional dishes of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia.
William was born in Malaysia which has historically enjoyed the
cuisines from the neighbouring countries as well as China. All those
cuisines take advantage of the same palate of herbs and spices so it’s
easy to mix and match dishes from different countries with no fear of
culinary conflict.
We arrived for a late lunch and there was a steady flow of customers.
No, I wouldn’t say that Banana Tree was full to capacity but many other
restaurants in the area were empty. It seems that there are already a
few who have Banana Tree as their restaurant of choice: some tourists,
a couple of chunky chaps who might have been boxers and several office
workers, all looking for a sustaining and flavourful meal without a
wince-inducing price tag.
Double-cooked Crispy Pork Mix was my starter and I can highly recommend
this. Morsels of various cuts of meat with a crunchy texture. Moreish
with a mint, ginger and chilli dipping sauce that was so delicious that
I saved the dregs to pour over my rice with the soon-to-follow main
course. A simple little starter but memorable.
The Banana Tree Combo was appealing. It isn’t a single dish but
rather a formula for your main meal. It adds sesame glass noodle salad,
corn cakes, spicy crackers and jasmine rice. This spread is available
with curries and regional specialities, and its addition turns a meal
into a feast.
My main dish was the Legendary Rendang. This is a rich and flavourful
casserole that has all the perfumed savour of the region. Spicy, yes,
but aromatic and distinctive. A classic dish with plenty of sauce to
take advantage of the aforementioned rice. There was no need for me to
have hung onto that dipping condiment, after all. The salad was fresh
and light, and those crackers were addictive. A substantial repast over
which to linger.
Banana Tree works. It’s a friendly environment where one can enjoy an
evening that won’t break the bank. It’s equally a spot to which to
gravitate when you are alone and want some quality food rather than a
coffee and a muffin or a pre-wrapped sarnie on a park bench. Lone
diners won’t feel conspicuous at Banana Tree.
I am impressed. The standard of food is an obvious draw: a broad menu
of well-presented dishes. It has accessible flair in unintimidating
packaging. I look forward to visiting others in the chain.
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12 Noon-10.30pm
Banana Tree - Soho
103 Wardour Street, London W1F 0UQ
Email: info@bananatree.co.uk
Visit Banana Tree Soho here
The Indian Bible
We in the UK have a very particular view on Indian food.
For most of us it’s visits to restaurants that introduce us to those
vibrant spices that give such a distinct flavour to Sub-continental
dishes – those which have fiery heat and those which are aromatic and
mellow.
The Indian Bible offers the reader a well-chosen selection of recipes,
many of which will be familiar to those of us who haunt our local
Indian restaurant. There are also many that will be new even to the
most dedicated “curry” addict.
Most Indians are full- or part-time vegetarians and lots of people eat
lentils every day. They are comforting in both flavour and texture,
simple to make and can be served with either bread or rice. The Indian
Bible suggests a mixed yellow dal. There are few spices needed but the
combination of mustard seeds, cumin and garlic along with green
chillies give heat and richness that is tempered by a bunch of fresh
coriander used as an essential ingredient rather than a garnish.
Kerala is a coastal region in southern India. Their cuisine takes
advantage of seafood and the ubiquitous coconut and curry leaves, which
add a unique flavour. Kerala Prawn Curry is “Kerala on a plate” or at
least that’s how the late Keith Floyd would probably have described it.
This isn’t a searingly spicy dish so it’s an ideal introduction to
Indian food for the timid.
Baigan Bharta is a much celebrated smoky eggplant (aubergine) dish. The
vegetables are slowly roasted. No chillies here – it’s a smooth and
moreish dip that is a delight served with naan bread. This would make a
delicious addition to a starter platter with onion bhajis, samosas and
lamb seekh kebabs, also in this book.
Desserts in India are not as common as they are in the West but they
are memorable. Kheer – Indian rice pudding – is traditional and full of
nuts, dried fruits, saffron, and cardamom. The recipe includes just one
pod but I would be tempted to add a few more.
Kulfi – Indian ice cream – is often found on restaurant menus although
it’s mostly bought-in rather than made in-house. It’s easy to make at
home even without an ice-cream maker. There are two versions here:
coconut and pistachio. My favourite is coconut which contains condensed
milk as a key ingredient. Don’t be tempted to substitute regular milk
for the condensed milk: it’s what gives the distinctive taste and
texture.
The Indian Bible is a small-format and practical book with more than
130 recipes. The spices will likely be ones you already have in your
larder, and the few exotic extras can be bought either online or in
your local Asian supermarket. It’s amazing value for money at only
£5.99.
Cookbook review: The Indian Bible
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-6325-9
My Indian Kitchen
Even the title holds out great hope for the oft-confused
home cook. We are looking for books written with us in mind. A book
that takes note of the fact that we are unlikely in the West to have
“staff”, a tandoor and a man that pops by on a Wednesday just to grind
some spices.
Hari Nayak might not be a familiar name to us in the UK but he is
deservedly celebrated in the US. He has his own food consultancy
business and is a restaurateur and promoter of Indian food in America,
and he is obviously a talented cookbook author. Although he was born
and brought up in India he is a graduate of the CIA. No, dear European
reader, Hari isn’t a spy for the US government. CIA in this case is the
prestigious Culinary Institute of America. He is a man who definitely
has a cheffy finger on the pulses of both East and West. A unique
perspective.
This is a stunning large-format cookbook that you would want to own
even if you didn’t have a notion where your own kitchen might be. (It's
that room with a couple of taps and the microwave.) It entices the
reader with images of spices and finished dishes, and it will truly
tempt you away from your culinary lethargy (or fear) and into your own
kitchen to replicate some memorable dishes that offer authentic tastes
of the Subcontinent.
Hari does not assume that the reader in an expert Indian cook or indeed
a cook of any ethnic persuasion. The recipes are well-written and give
an overview of classic Indian dishes. Classic, yes, but that does not
translate to difficult or long-winded. You will be able to make
everything here with ease and with the use of spices that you will
likely find in your local supermarket.
One of the simplest recipes is for Street-style Grilled Corn on the
Cob. It’s summer so the grill is a prominent item of garden furniture.
Do something amazing with humble ears of corn, and perhaps consider a
whole al fresco Indian meal by adding Masala Lamb Chops and a green
salad. I would suggest preparing more lamb than you would normally, as
the aroma of grilling meat is mouth-watering. A memorable side dish
would be Hari's Smoky Fire-roasted Aubergine (eggplant). This is
flavourful and comforting and can also be used as a dip with Indian
breads as a starter.
Hari has introduced some elements of innovation. Food should, after
all, evolve so Hari gives a nod to his cultural heritage with chai, but
goes on to use that favourite beverage in a decadent Crème
Brulée. India does have a good array of traditional desserts but
Chai Crème Brulée is a twist on the French original, some
might say an improvement. Don’t just save this for the end of an Indian
meal. It will get compliments at any dinner party.
My pick of the book is probably the recipe for Marinated Roast Leg of
Lamb. It’s not something you’ll rustle up in a hurry for unexpected
guests but it is worth the time invested. Having said that the time
invested is mostly marinating time and you don’t have to keep the lamb
company while it’s absorbing those spices. It’s a straightforward dish
to make and one that you will make often. The perfume of this cooking
meat will fill your home and tease your guests with the promise of a
delicious Indian meal before they even reach the table. The leftovers
make flavourful sandwiches, or they would if there were any, but that
is unlikely.
The lavish photography makes every dish look enticing and even those
who are familiar with Indian recipes will find lots of new delights;
but this book will be particularly inspiring for those who might have
only eaten Indian food in restaurants. My Indian Kitchen offers
authentic and accessible dishes that can be prepared without tears (get
someone else to peel the onions). A gift-quality book with which you
will not want to part.
My Indian Kitchen
Author: Hari Nayak
Published by: Tuttle Publishing
ISBN 978-0-8048-4089-7
London Asian restaurant
review: Spice Market for Dinner
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is considered by many to be one
of the foremost movers and shakers in the culinary arena these days
...on both sides of the pond. He heads the celebrated French restaurant
Jean-Georges, overlooking Central Park in New York, and Spice Market in
the smart Meatpacking District. You don’t need a transatlantic hop to
enjoy Spice Market food – it’s here now in the heart of London.
The restaurant graces a corner of a plot housing the W Hotel, the
latest in Soho. Its entrance is contemporary and anonymous and suggests
nothing of the ambiance behind the glass.
Spice Market flows over two floors and is just as contemporary as the
exterior, but rich and warm with hints of exotica. The unique design
allows for intimate dinners but equally offers convivial space for
larger groups. There is a private dining room, The Globe Room, which
can accommodate up to 40 guests for dinner or lunch or 60 for drinks
and hors d’oeuvres. There are sliding screens to offer privacy but
those are more often left open so that the company can take advantage
of the general buzz.
The name Spice Market is said to come from the walls of jars and
bottles which give the effect of an Asian food store. These walls offer
colour and vibrancy in a way that no watercolour could do. The open
kitchens add movement and excitement. Perhaps Spice Market will remind
travellers of the night markets of South East Asia – all their booths
with chans clattering on metal and tantalising perfumes wafting on the
evening air.
OK, so perhaps that’s an over-romantic description of the restaurant
but it does give the impression of a high-end and energetic dining
destination; it will be the food and perhaps the extensive wine list
that will assure your return. The 600 or so wok lamps will grab your
attention but so will the Ginger Margarita. (Don’t miss this one: the
ginger salt is a revelation.)
Black Pepper Shrimp garnished with delicately dehydrated pineapple was
punchy and showed off the eponymous spice. The cubes of fruit were a
sweet confection of concentrated flavour and a marvellous foil to the
powerful seafood.
Spiced Chicken Samosas with a coriander and yoghurt dip were a
deviation from the classic Indian samosa typically stuffed with a
potato or lamb mixture. The Spice Market interpretations were lighter
than the original, with crisp pastry encasing a well-balanced filling.
Salmon Sashimi was a triumph. I found this to have far more character
than the traditional cold version found in Japanese restaurants. Warm
crunchy rice constituted the base and the chipotle pepper emulsion and
suspicion of spring onion completed this preparation. A signature dish
if ever there was one.
Crab Dumplings garnished with sugarsnap peas and a sauce of aromatic
spices was perhaps my favourite of the entire menu. The dumplings were
light and flavourful and extremely moreish. A thoughtful adaptation of
a dim sum standard.
Mango Salad with cherry tomatoes and crystallised tamarind was a
substantial plateful, the sweet fruit puree being spiked by the acidity
of the tomatoes and astringence of the tamarind.
Thai Jewels and Fruits with crushed coconut ice is a traditional
South-east Asian dessert. It’s a cooling end to a spicy meal, although
the coconut does have its own delicate richness. Very attractive; but
Chocolate and Vietnamese Coffee Tart with a scoop of condensed milk ice
cream was memorable and should be your pud of choice should you be
unfortunate enough only to have the time or interior space left to try
just one. The tart was dark, decadent and thoroughly adult but it was
almost eclipsed by that ice cream.
Many a self-important “foodie” has scoffed at condensed milk. It
perhaps smacks of store cupboards in the 1960s. Every house seemed to
own a can of this thick and syrupy delight but I can only ever remember
it being used as a regular milk substitute in an emergency or (and here
the untutored will cringe) spread on bread as an instant and sugary
snack.
It has a distinct flavour that bears no resemblance to either milk or
cream. It is used in desserts all over the East and adds richness as
well as flavour to all manner of sweets. The ice cream at Spice Market
showcases this underrated ingredient to great advantage. A worthy
partner for both coffee and dark chocolate.
Spice Market ticks so many boxes. Its location is convenient. The decor
is remarkable. The food is confident and different. Don’t expect these
dishes to resemble those found at the Painted San Pan on the high
street. A meal here is an event and one that I can highly recommend. I
look forward to a return visit. I hear they do a very nice breakfast
with an Asian slant.
Opening hours:
Breakfast:
7:00 am – 11:00 am Monday-Friday
8:00 am – 11:30 am Saturday-Sunday
Lunch - Dinner:
12:00 noon – 11:00 pm Sunday-Wednesday
12:00 noon – 11:30 pm Thursday-Saturday
When home alone I confess to being a half-hearted
breakfast eater. It’s not that I am not craving a tasty start to my day
but let’s be honest, who wants to make a meal when the old eyes are
near closing and the bus will arrive in ten minutes. Yes, it’s a slice
of toast, and yoghurt if I feel noble. But I always do fancy that
elusive big breakfast.
So the truth is out. I only make a cooked breakfast at weekends or when
we have friends staying over. A traditional English fried breakfast is
popular for very good reasons: it’s hearty, comforting and delicious.
It has endured as a favourite with both tourists, who are mostly under
the misapprehension that we eat this every morning, and us locals who
wish that we could.
But there are other cooked breakfasts that are just as delicious and
make a flavoursome change. Spice Market offers a striking menu for
lunch and dinner, and its breakfast bill of fare is just as imaginative
and eclectic. Most of the morning guests are from the adjoining W Hotel
and they come from every corner of the globe and enjoy the wide range
of items on offer ...after the novelty of the great British fry-up has
worn off.
Eggs of your Choice, Potato Rosti, Egg White Omelette with Herbs, Eggs
Benedict, Scottish Smoked Salmon, Toasted Brioche, French Toast with
Sautéed Apples, Pinhead Porridge with Raisins and Brown Sugar
are some of the cooked dishes, but there is also a buffet that caters
to those who can only manage a sweet pastry. Northern Europeans can
graze on cheese, cold meats, smoked fish, and fruit.
All very nice and I would have been delighted to indulge along with our
Continental cousins, but there were other breakfast treats that are
unique to Spice Market. Cornish Crab and Egg Scramble, Smoked Paprika
and Puffed Rice sounded intriguing and savoury. I couldn’t quite
imagine what this was going to be. Perhaps some rubbery concoction
served over a bowl of that famous cereal that snaps, crackles and pops?
Surely that could not be right.
The reality was a delicate scramble laced with white crab meat. There was a hint of
chilli that gave a suspicion of heat and the puffed rice was in the
guise of a wafer. Lime added a spike of citrus vibrancy. A well-rounded
dish that would be enticing for those looking for a brekkie with an
Asian slant. It was a substantial portion, but a rugby player could
always add a side of hot buttered toast.
Coconut Pancakes, Maple-Lavender Syrup and Pomelo is a lighter but
equally exotic option. The small pancakes were as fluffy as one would
hope and the pomelo was refreshing and summery and a foil for the rich
sweetness of the maple syrup. This is an indispensible part of any
American pancake breakfast but it’s important to choose a dark syrup
that offers real taste rather than just sweetness. The Spice Market
breakfast balances all elements. Nothing more needed than a cup of tea,
although a “cuppa Joe” would be the beverage of choice for those
visitors from across the Pond.
Opening hours:
Breakfast:
7:00 am – 11:00 am Monday-Friday
8:00 am – 11:30 am Saturday-Sunday
Lunch - Dinner:
12:00 noon – 11:00 pm Sunday-Wednesday
12:00 noon – 11:30 pm Thursday-Saturday
John Gregory-Smith has penned a unique and fascinating
volume. It considers the spices themselves rather than focusing on a
particular culinary tradition. So many countries have cuisines that
showcase spices. Chilli is common across the globe but was unknown
outside the Americas before that continent was discovered; these days
we could not consider making an Asian curry without a few chillies.
Mighty Spice takes advantage of a selection of 25 or so spices and they
will all be available to you in your local supermarket, or online if
you live in a lighthouse. No, don’t take fright at the imagined
complexity of these dishes. John uses a maximum of five spices for each
recipe. Once you have your collection of powders and seeds then you’ll
be set to make everything in this book: simple yet vibrant dishes.
There is an element of food-related tour guide here. John has travelled
extensively and, naturally, he has been eating along the way. He wasn’t
your usual backpacker: he had a successful career in the food industry
but this was still a voyage of discovery, just as all good voyages
should be. He ate in homes and in favourite cafés, every meal
giving inspiration and an overview of that particular country’s
culinary heritage.
There are plenty of dishes here that you will recognise from your own
travels but many more that will be less familiar. Indonesian Nasi
Goreng is a perennial restaurant favourite but it’s quick and simple to
prepare at home and this recipe makes good use of leftover cooked rice.
Always cook more rice than you need just to have some “fast food” the
following day.
Mexican dishes are more popular than ever. Frijoles Negros – Mexican
re-fried beans – are ubiquitous in Mexican homes and Mexican
restaurants across the globe. This is comfort food at its finest.
Creamy and substantial and a side dish for any self-respecting taco or
tortilla or Mexican scrambled eggs for a memorable breakfast.
Bangkok Garlic and Black Pepper Chicken is my pick of the book. Yes,
just pepper as your main spice and I bet you already have that in your
store cupboard. Garlic is in every supermarket and this recipe uses 8
cloves, which is probably a whole head. That sounds like a lot for just
500g of chicken breast meat, but garlic has two faces: it's pungent and
spicy in its raw form but it becomes unctuous, sweet and rich when
cooked. Chicken is still the most economic of meats and this dish is of
dinner-party quality.
Mighty Spice is ideal for lovers of flavourful dishes. John
Gregory-Smith’s thoughtfully-selected recipes showcase particular
spices but also give an overview of culinary style. These dishes range
from the chilli-hot to the mildly-aromatic. There are those that are
robust and others, like John's selection of desserts, that are sweet
and perfumed. Something for every taste.
Cookbook review: Mighty Spice
Author: John Gregory-Smith
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84483-991-9
Classic Indian Recipes
I am often put off by cookbook titles that include the
word ‘classic’. That term sometimes indicates that the dishes are going
to be over-fussy and will be relying on rare and costly ingredients for
impact. One has visions of the kitchens of Versailles bustling with
portly and ill-tempered chefs presiding over an army of downtrodden
kitchen menials and each one of those babysitting larks tongues or
poking a pot of peacock porridge. If one is considering Indian cuisine
the vision is even more intimidating. Will there be a ‘classic’ and
indispensible kitchen gadget (probably in brass and exquisitely
wrought) to purchase? Perhaps those unfamiliar spices demand a trip to
a charmingly exotic gully in Delhi – although one could try the
internet.
Fear none of the above scenarios, dear reader. Manju Malhi presents her
Classic Indian Recipes and they are written with the modern home cook
in mind. Yes, they are ‘classic’ but that word could be replaced
with ‘I have heard of those’ or ‘familiar restaurant’ and equally apt
‘easily made in Twickenham’ (reader substitutes his/her own address).
Lots here to excite and encourage domestic gods or goddesses who have
hitherto been a bit shy in the presence of a green chilli.
Manju is an Indian but she is also a West London lass, so has an
insight into the anxieties of Europeans who would like to make
traditional Indian food but have felt themselves incapable. There is no
magic formula to preparing striking samosas or amazing aloo gobhi. All
you need is a recipe and a bit of confidence. There are no mysterious
cooking techniques to master, no additional kitchen equipment needed
(assuming you already have a hob) and once you have amassed a
collection of half a dozen or so spices you will be ready to tackle all
the recipes listed here.
These are simple recipes to follow and they encompass some of my
personal favourite dishes. The Sweet Lemon Pickle will be a flavourful
garnish to many of the other dishes listed. Anything that only has to
be prepared once every 8 months is bound to be popular with all of us
with a passion for good food but who have little time. The ubiquitous
coriander and mint chutneys are also here and they will be your
essential condiments.
I love dal (lentils) in all its forms. Dal Makhani is a perennial
restaurant item, as its rich, spiced silkiness is deeply
comforting. It’s rather calorific but a little goes a long way.
Simple to make at home and the process can be speeded if one has access
to a pressure cooker. It seems that every housewife of Indian descent
has at least one and perhaps two of these practical contraptions.
You’ll manage very well with just your regular pots, though.
Indian sweets and desserts are overlooked by many other Indian
cookbooks, but here Manju offers a creditable selection that takes us
from the relatively healthy yoghurt-based Shrikhand to the sweet that
I’d fight you for – Doodh ki Barfi. You might not recognise the name
but think of those Indian sweetshops with their piles of cubed and
sugary delights. You can now make these chez vous for a fraction of the
price of the commercial varieties. I would add a little cardamom for
extra flavour.
My pick of the book is a recipe for a vegetable which is delicious
served alongside almost anything. It would work well as a nibble with
drinks and the only drawback is that you will never be able to make
enough. It’s Bhindi Jaipuri and it’s addictive. Okra is about as
popular in urban legend as broccoli but this is a must-try dish. The
coated and fried okra are transformed into vibrant and crunchy morsels.
Moreish – but feel noble: they are vegetables and one of your 5-a-day.
Classic Indian Recipes by Manju Malhi is great value for money and a
solid introduction to Indian cooking.
Asian cookbook review: Classic Indian Recipes
Author: Manju Malhi
Published by: Hamlyn
Price: £10.00
ISBN 978-0-600-62235-2
Asian London restaurant
review: Thai Square - Richmond
Richmond is that leafy and rather posh terminus of the
District Line. It’s got swanky river frontage, historic buildings
and The Green skirted by homes of the rich and famous. A good location
for some decent restaurants catering for the discerning high-end palate.
The latest addition to the Thai Square group has arrived on the Kew
Road, next to the imposing Carluccio's and just a few yards from
Richmond Station. It’s the former Duke of York pub but any evidence of
that incarnation has been replaced by a modern façade and a
light and
bright interior.
It’s evident that it’s a Thai restaurant, but of the confident and
contemporary variety. A few tasteful artefacts give a gentle nod
towards graceful exotica, and the skylights at the rear of the
restaurant will allow diners to bask in the timid British evening
sunlight.
We settled ourselves just under the aforementioned roof window on a
warm summer evening. The cocktail list offered us some tempting Asian
options and the Lychee Martini - fresh lychee, vodka, syrup, dash of
lime juice - seemed appropriate for the occasion. Pale
and delicate and very much that evocative flavour of the East.
The menu is considerable, with a raft of set meals as well as a regular
a la carte section. For our first starter we ordered Kanom Jeeb - Thai
dim sum of minced chicken, prawn, water chestnuts, coriander root,
garlic and pepper, all wrapped in wonton dough and steamed. These were
mild, soft and just the sort of nibble to enjoy with that cocktail.
Tempura Soft Shell Crab was our second starter dish. These crabs are
increasingly popular in restaurants of every culinary persuasion. I
first encountered them in the US a couple of decades ago and I was at
that time intrigued by the prospect of eating the whole
crustacean.
Happy to say I can now indulge in this seafood dish without running the
gauntlet of US Customs and Immigration. Sweet crab meat, crunchy batter
and a tangy dipping sauce make this a Thai Square signature dish.
We selected a couple of glasses of the Languedoc rosé to
accompany our
main dishes – a light and crisp wine that works well with robust
flavours. It’s sold by the glass and it’s under a fiver, so worth
considering.
Lamb Mussaman Curry is a traditional mild Muslim dish from the south of
Thailand. It’s a standard on many Thai menus because it’s aromatic
rather than being searingly hot, and has an appealing richness from
coconut milk. The potatoes add substance and peanuts give texture.
Spinach with Ginger and Garlic was the side dish, a fresh, vibrant
green plateful
which was an admirable foil for the curry sauce. Sticky rice is an
indispensible part of any Thai meal, here served in a woven basket, a
nice ethnic touch and practical: the rice remained moist for the
duration of the meal.
Moo Ping - marinated barbecued pork chop served with a traditional Thai
spicy sauce - is a must-try dish. The meat was deliciously charred from
the grill. Real flavour but simple. The dipping sauce excited the taste
buds – so vibrant that I could have enjoyed just a bowl of sticky rice
drizzled with this. But to be honest I wouldn’t want to miss that pork:
memorable even for those of us who don’t consider meat an indispensible
part of every dining experience.
Thai Square was packed on the evening of our visit. Yes, it’s a recent
opening so there are bound to be plenty of first-time-thresholders, but
it’s a welcome addition to the Richmond restaurant scene. The
restaurant needs to pay attention to detail to assure return custom as
the competition is keen, but the menu is tempting and the prices are
reasonable. I’ll be returning to try some more of the chef’s specials.
London Asian restaurant
review:
The Empress of Sichuan –
London Chinatown
I know there are some good restaurants in and around
Chinatown but they are famously few and far between.
It’s a universal truth that the best food in any city will not be found
in areas where business is supported by tourists. Those folks are a
one-time hit: the restaurants don’t expect them to return and often the
quality of the food would discourage an encore anyway.
Most restaurants seem to be Cantonese. Lots of dubious buffets (I would
love to find an exceptional one) and menus sporting lists of the usual
suspects. One can guarantee at least a brace of gloopy and luminous
sweet-and-sour dishes and probably a spring roll or two filled with
what one might suspect are yesterday’s leftovers.
The Empress of Sichuan isn’t in the main drag of Gerrard Street where
groups of excited European and mystified Chinese tourists throng. It’s
at the west end of Lisle Street, the end farthest from Leicester Square
Underground station. It
occupies the former site of Taiwanese restaurant Keelung, which wasn’t
around too long. It has a tastefully muted exterior and
seems almost shy and looking to be anonymous.
At first sight it appears to be a rather small restaurant but it has a
capacity of 120, plus another 16 in the private dining room. It has
banquettes, screened nooks and secluded wings, as well as a basement
with more seating. It’s a contemporary space with an impressive display
of fine wines. We sat beneath a print of Cliff and the Shadows which
revived memories of Soho in the 60s. Lots of warm wood and muted
lights.
Sichuan cuisine is vibrant. Other restaurants might offer a couple of
dishes from that repertoire and will think themselves daring. The
Empress of Sichuan, however, has an extensive bill of fare and it’s
predominantly Sichuanese. Spice is the key. Red chilli and Sichuan
pepper are used in great quantities and to good effect. It’s not about
heat but flavour. The Sichuan pepper lends a soft but mouth-numbing and
instantly recognisable note – almost perfumed and an indispensable
ingredient in so many dishes.
Be bold. Take advice from the knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff and
try some of the large array of flavourful dishes. We ordered Pigs’ Ears
with Chilli Oil. These were bacon-thin slices, rather than large floppy
lugs drooping over the edge of the plate. Think comforting and
gelatinous texture, and mouth-filling and warming chilli. Moreish.
The must-try starter is Marinated Lamb Skewer. The grilled meat was
tender, moist and delicate, and aromatically delicious. This must be a
signature small plate and well worth ordering. This cuisine is best
enjoyed with friends: choose a selection of dishes to share, taste a
little of this and a bite of that to
create a striking meal.
My guest was tempted by some Aromatic Duck. Yes, this one
is ubiquitous on Chinese menus but it’s popular because it’s a
convivial and theatrical dish. Done well, it’s an event in its own
right. Your server will present your portion of duck and deftly shred
it before your very eyes. There will be the usual garnishes and all to
be wrapped in steamed pancakes.
Spicy Aubergine with Minced Pork was the first of our main dishes. The
meat is used here almost as a condiment. The vegetable is the star with
its dressing of sweet garlic, bathed in plenty of silky sauce, and it
was awarded one chilli’s worth of warning on the menu. A must-try dish
if ever there was one.
We were persuaded by the Lobster with Red Chilli. This had the
two-chilli warning on the menu but it was just gloriously rich and
warming, and far from the searing heat that one might have expected
...or dreaded. A spectacular presentation and the only thing lacking
was a hunk of French bread. Yes, we had ample rice but that amazing
dish somehow needed a dipping accompaniment to soak up all those very
red juices. A shame to waste any.
The Empress of Sichuan presented us with outstanding food.
The staff were a considerable cut above those in most other Chinese
restaurants. The whole experience was charming and I venture to say
that this restaurant should have a long and secure future. I trust they
will maintain their standards of both food and staff. Perhaps we will
drop by from time to time just to check. A responsibility that I will
undertake with great pleasure.
Opening Hours:
Monday - Wednesday 12pm to 10.45pm
Thursday - Sunday 12pm to 11.15pm
Empress of Sichuan
6 Lisle Street, Chinatown, London WC2H 7BG
Telephone: 020 7734 8128
Visit Empress of Sichuan here
Asian cookbook review:
Cooking with Olive Oil
An acquaintance gave me this book, Cooking with Olive Oil.
I was rather surprised. No, in truth I was shocked.
The title ‘Cooking with Olive Oil’ explains just what this book is
about. Europeans, and especially those fortunate enough to live an
olive-pit’s throw from the Mediterranean have used this “green gold”
for millennia. It has been widely promoted as a healthy food, natural
and delicious. Yes, olive oil and I have been on nodding terms for several
decades.
So, OK, it was not the olive oil that stunned me but rather my
acquaintance. Sanjeev Kapoor is perhaps the most celebrated and
recognised face in India. He can hardly walk a few yards even in
England without being recognised, his hand pumped, a snap for the album
taken, and even his feet touched by those who admire the most-viewed
chef on the planet. Sanjeev Kapoor has penned a book on, obviously,
cooking with olive oil, but this is Indian food cooked with olive oil
and that is tantamount to a revolution!
So many people in the UK complain that Indian food in restaurants is
too heavy and oily. That has changed over the last years, and now we
have many fine Indian restaurants which replicate traditional home
cooking and authentic fare. Those gloopy and oil-drenched “curries” are
still with us but they are fewer these days. The best Indian food is
often found in homes and the insertion of olive oil into the kitchen
larder adds to the appeal of this great and classic cuisine.
So is this still “classic” Indian food? Well, yes indeed. A cuisine
must live and evolve. We think of Indian dishes as being chilli-hot
with good use being made of potatoes and tomatoes. But those
ingredients are not indigenous to the Subcontinent – they arrived with
the discovery of the New World. Amazing food should never be limited by
anything other than good taste and imagination. Olive oil is a natural
and healthful addition to the regular battery of Indian ingredients.
Part of the inspiration for this book came from Sanjeev's own home
cook, a lady of fairly advanced years who used some bottles of olive
oil just because they were there. Her endorsement must be taken
seriously as she is, after all, the chef to a chef. The family had been
unaware that they had been enjoying olive oil in place of the regular
choice for a while. I guess that was the most convincing of blind
tastings.
This book is full of tempting Indian dishes that have been adapted take
advantage of the positive qualities of olive oil. Several recipes also
include the olives themselves, to offer an intriguing and unique
fusion. Carrot, Raisin and Black Olive Salad is reminiscent of those
North African side dishes found along the southern coast of the
Mediterranean. Corn Bhel with Tomato and Olives has its origins in the
snack culture of India.
My pick of the book is Punjabi Kadhi. These are spicy and aromatic
pakoras dressed with a yoghurt-based sauce. The dumplings are
deep-fried in olive oil but, cooked at the right temperature, these
will absorb hardly any oil, making this a delicious and guilt-free
meal. That’s dinner this evening, chez nous.
Cooking with Olive Oil by Sanjeev Kapoor will appeal to all of us, and
particularly to those who have health or weight issues. A simple
replacement of olive oil for your habitual medium is a 21st century
departure, but it’s a healthy choice rather than a trendy fad. No
flavour is diminished and the olive oil will not be noticed, even by
the purists, in those hearty and flavourful dishes.
Cooking with Olive Oil
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan Ltd
ISBN 978-81-7991-497-7
London Asian
restaurant review: Mango Tree for Sunday Lunch
It’s been decades since a Sunday lunch just meant a huge
roast with all the trimmings. We have travelled and our tastes are much
broader. Some things remain the same though, at least for me. Good
company and the Sunday lunch music with which I grew up.
Its family time. We gather a group of friends and other loved ones for
a convivial few hours of chatter and fine food. I remember that there
was always music playing in the background as my mum would prepare the
meal. In those days the music consisted of the current “hit parade”
hits. Yes, we are talking about the ‘50s and ‘60s. And last Sunday was
a re-run of those days in every regard...but the fine food was Thai and
the venue was Mango Tree and a lot more impressive than my parent’s
kitchen.
Mango Tree in Belgravia is a long way from the original branch back in
Bangkok but it’s very close to Buckingham Palace, Victoria Station and
Sloan Square Underground. You might to be rubbing shoulders with the
folks from the Big House but your fellow diners are likely to be
regulars who appreciate this smart restaurant with its memorable dishes.
The restaurant is a vision of warm red-brown teak. The tables are laid
with silver chargers giving the air of a sumptuous eatery with ethnic
hints. Mango tree is confident in its enviable position as one of the
most respected of Thai restaurants in London. It’s a contemporary space
yet unmistakably exotic.
I wanted a light starter for my meal and so I chose Meung Cum. This is
traditional Thai snack which is rather like vegetarian wraps. Betel nut
leaves are smeared with a tamarind sauce. That base is then sprinkled
with peanuts, delicate cubes of lime, ginger in tiny matching cubes,
and chilli in vibrant red rings, red onion thinly chopped, golden
toasted coconut and tiny dried shrimp. All served on a striking stand
of components ready for each guest to role their own leafy morsel.
Mango Tree offers various menus and offers throughout the year. They
have a Thai Salad Festival running till the end of the month (June
2011) and my guest took advantage of the grilled meat salad with its
vibrant kebabs of chicken, beef and pork. A hearty plateful but it was
a salad so my companion felt noble and healthy. I enjoyed a prawn
tempura salad with a creamy dressing. The generous dish would be ideal
for those who are anxious about spice.
Desserts are always a pleasure at Mango Tree. Thai cuisine offers a
tantalising selection of fruit jellies and they are well worth trying.
This restaurant lists Wun kra-ti mamuang - Fresh mango and coconut
jellies set with agar agar. They make a visual impact of orange and
white symmetry. The platter was reminiscent of a fruity Toblerone.
Small peaks of perfumed sweetness. My guest was tempted by the Cake
Ma-now - Lychee and lime flavoured cheese cake with lychee
jelly. This was a light and moussey confection which was indeed
enhanced by the jelly which was laced with shreds of ginger.
Mango Tree has several menus to suit both time and taste. A must try
from the Al a Cart menu is the Massaman Gae - Massaman curry with lamb
shank. The vegetarian menu has lots to entice those who are often given
a raw and bland bill of fare at other establishments. I would suggest
Gaeng Kiew Wan Pak - Thai pea aubergines with mixed vegetables and
green curry as a full-on taste experience.
I visit some of the best restaurants the capital has to offer. There
are those I enjoy and others that rank on my list of favourites. Mango
Tree is the latter. Its staff are attentive and charming. They
understand the food they serve and are always ready with informed
advice. Thai food is more popular than ever but I, at least, am happy
to have some experts on hand to guide me through those still unfamiliar
dishes. Sunday lunch at Mango Tree was a delicious melange of
comforting tradition and fabulous food. This could become a regular
event.
Pre Theatre menu allows early diners to take advantage of great value
meals: 2 courses £17 or 3 courses £22 from 6 - 7pm seating
Sunday special menu has lunch 3 courses £17.00 and dinner 3
courses £20.00
With Mango tree Fizz cocktail add £5.00. On Sunday from 12:00pm –
4:00pm and 6:00pm – 9:30pm
London Asian restaurant review: Mango Tree
46 Grosvenor Place, London SW1X 7EQ
Phone: 020 7823 1888
Fax: 020 7838 9275
Visit Mango Tree here
Asian
cookbook review:
Sanjeev
Kapoor - Master of the Art of Indian Cooking
Talking on the radio a few months ago, I was musing on
books I would take to a desert island. Those who know this city ‘girl’
will understand that the prospect of an isolated space would induce
sweaty palms. Red buses and black taxis are my comfort zone.
My choice of essential reading matter was at that time the (mythical)
Marine Carpentry for the Beginner, with chapters on “How to whittle a
speedboat out of a log” and “Making an outboard motor from a coconut
and two sardines.” Sanjeev Kapoor has swept that volume from my
home-made fantasy island bookshelf, and replaced it with Mastering the
Art of Indian Cooking.
We met in a comfy corner of London’s celebrated Bombay Brasserie, a
favourite restaurant with not only plenty of buses and taxis nearby but
the security of Gloucester Road Underground on the doorstep. Sanjeev
Kapoor is the least affected and most charming of celebrities I have
ever met – a funny, warm character that truly is in life exactly as his
TV persona. He has been voted one of the most trusted men in India.
Sanjeev Kapoor is perhaps the best-known chef in the world. If the name
is not familiar then I could guess that you are not Indian or Asian of
any description. This man stars in Khana Khazana (it is actually
India’s longest-running TV show) which broadcasts to 120 countries and
in 2010 was estimated to have more than 500 million viewers. He now has
his own food-dedicated TV station aptly called Foodfood. He remembers
that “Some said that 24-hour food TV would never work, but it does. We
keep the content pertinent to the Asian market. We give viewers what
they want – recipes that they really would like to cook themselves.” He
was the first TV chef to become a culinary star. “Till that time chefs
were not really appreciated. People were almost sympathetic when they
saw me on TV. They hoped that I would get a proper job in the near
future,” he joked. He has been recognised as giving the food industry
and chefs in India respectability, and he himself has gained much
personal caché. Richard Quest selected Sanjeev Kapoor as one of
the top celebrity chefs in the world, along with Gordon Ramsay, Jamie
Oliver and Wolfgang Puck, featuring them in his programme “Quest” on
the CNN channel.
Sanjeev started in the hospitality industry in 1984 with a Diploma in
Hotel Management from the Indian Institute of Hotel Management (IIHM)
in Pusa. He was academically brilliant so his choice surprised some,
who had expected him to become an engineer or a doctor. Many Indian
chefs have come from families who have had a connection to restaurants,
hotels or catering, but Sanjeev chose this path independently, not
being associated with any foodie family firm. “My Dad used to cook
wonderful meat dishes. In those days it was unusual for a man in India
to cook at home.” Perhaps his father sowed the seed of Sanjeev’s future
success.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is the latest in a
steady stream of cookbooks penned by this Indian culinary worthy. All
others, although eminently accessible to the Western audience, have
been written for the Asian reader. This latest tome offers dishes
selected for those outside the Subcontinent. The recipes are not
‘dumbed-down’ for the non-Indian palate, but they have been chosen to
introduce an array of both classic and contemporary delights that can
easily be prepared with the use of your regular high-street shops. For
those folk who live in a lighthouse off the coast of Shetland then
there is always the internet.
Sanjeev Kapoor is on a panel of India’s Ministry of Tourism set up
specifically to document Indian cuisine and to present to the world an
authentic view of these classic dishes. We are all very enthusiastic
about French cuisine and it has indeed given us so much: remarkable
patisserie, memorable sauces, refined plates; but the cuisine of India
has been for too long overlooked. It should, in my humble opinion,
stand proudly shoulder-to-shoulder with French cooking. Different but
equal in every regard.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking would be my all-encompassing
cookbook for my island adventure. Yes, this book is a considerable
size. No, it is not garnished with photographs of exotic food shown
tastefully balanced on the back of an elephant. Not a single lacy dosa
silhouetted in front of the Taj Mahal. This is a straightforward book
of recipes that you can and will make in your very own and not very
exotic kitchen. There are more than 500 recipes listed here. Many will
be familiar but there will be others that reflect Indian home cooking,
and it’s unlikely you would have found them on any restaurant menu.
A quick flick through the pages will assure you that the majority of
these recipes are simple. Note that the dishes that seem to require a
lengthy list of ingredients are easy to prepare. That list will
comprise spices that you will find in your supermarket. Once you have
your battery of half a dozen or so common spices then you are set to
make pretty much all the dishes collected here. Just add a couple of
fresh ingredients, fish, flesh or veggies, and dinner is on the way.
Not even home cooks in India want to spend too much time chained to the
range.
Beans Poriyal represents the easy yet truly Indian dishes found in
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking. Few ingredients, which combine to
make boring green beans a thing of the past. Ten minutes cooking time
gives a delicious side dish for an Asian or European meal. The majority
of Indians are full-time or part-time vegetarians so Indian cuisine
offers a wealth of vibrant yet healthy dishes for those who prefer to
stick to vegetables. The spices in Indian food compensate for the lack
of animal, so even card-carrying carnivores will be wooed by these
offerings.
I love Shrimp Balchao. I could consume this pickled Goan delicacy by
the bucket-full. It’s eaten with rice or even with the Goan savoury
coconut cakes called Sannas (included in this volume). This isn’t a
seafood version of our English pickled onions. Shrimp Balchao is a
sweet and sour preparation that is moreish. The vinegar is added early
in the cooking and the sugar added near the end to produce a zesty and
striking, well-balanced dish in less time than ordering a take-away.
Indian sweets are seldom found on restaurant menus. There are plenty of
sweetshops in Indian neighbourhoods but unless you are lucky enough to
live near one you’ll want a good recipe. Chocolate Walnut Burfy is a
two-layered confection made with rich solid condensed milk (found in
Asian supermarkets or on the internet for those in the lighthouse). It
has a shelf life of only a day or so but it will be gone before the
time’s up.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is, like the author, trustworthy.
No need to be an expert in the kitchen. The ingredients for the dishes
are not expensive. In fact the most costly and indispensible ingredient
will be the second copy of this book. You will want to keep that in the
kitchen and at hand to use frequently. It will become stained and
dog-eared over the years. It will naturally fall open at favourite
pages after a decade or two. Mine is already a little creased around
Shahi Paneer and a peppercorn is acting as a book-mark at Chettinadu
Kozhi Sambhar.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking is a must-have for any serious
cookbook collector or lover of real Indian food. It will, I feel sure,
become the Indian equivalent in status of the French Larousse
Gastronomique. Sanjeev Kapoor presents us with a delicious and
practical masterwork that is entirely relevant to today’s lifestyle and
tastes in both the East and West. Amazing value for money.
Mastering the Art of Indian Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Stewart Tabori and Chang (Abrams)
Price: £19.00, $27.28
ISBN: 978-1-58479-933-7 (UK)
ISBN-10: 1584799331 (US)
ISBN-13: 978-1584799337 (US)
Asian bar review: Zenna Bar
Dean Street is a famed Soho thoroughfare. It runs between
the retail hub of Oxford Street to the north and Shaftesbury Avenue to
the south.
The street has a colourful history. Mozart gave a recital here in his
youth. The French House was the unofficial headquarters of Charles de
Gaulle and the French Resistance during World War II. Karl Marx lived
here. Admiral Nelson stayed in Dean Street the day before setting off
for the Battle of Trafalgar. The New Romanticism fashion movement began
at the nightclub Billy's in the late 1970s, and the celebrated Groucho
Club, a private club for media types, calls this neck of the woods home.
OK, so you might not be celebrated enough (yet) to be invited to become
a Groucho member, but Zenna Bar has joined the list of worthy venues in
buzzy Soho, and there will always be a space for you there. This new
bar is in the basement of the Red Fort Indian restaurant. That
well-established eatery was closed for a while after extensive damage
caused by a fire next door. It’s now regained its popularity, and the
restaurant was full on the evening we visited, and it was only a
Tuesday.
Downstairs, Zenna is cool, crisp and contemporary. A huge water and
flower-filled uruli welcomes the visitor. The bar has, though, avoided
the temptation of festooning its walls with garish Indian handicrafts.
Yes, the walls are dressed, but with muted and tasteful black-and-white
photographs of iconic Sub-continental architecture and the like. The
formal seating area boasts silk-upholstered chairs but it will likely
be the cellaresque caverns that groups will bag for
the evening. Low seating and ceilings introduce an air of intimacy.
The drinks on offer include traditional Indian lassis and
Indian-inspired cocktails. They are served to those enjoying a
pre-dinner tipple, but increasingly to drinkers who have Zenna as the
destination, rather than the waiting-room. It’s only been open a few
months but its reputation for quality cocktails is spreading. We
arrived early, along with a steady stream of after-workers, a smart
bunch in business suits, and the party brigade would drift in a little
later. Zenna seems to be all things to all people as the clientele
changes with the hour.
Zenna doesn’t take itself too seriously. Manager and mixologist
extraordinaire Dan Thompson has concocted what is rumoured to be the
hottest ever cocktail. It’s called the Illiana and is aptly named after
a mythological golden dragon. It’s a fiery blend of spiced rum, orange
Curacao, almond syrup, lime and orange juice, plus just one explosive
drop of a secret chilli extract. Those daring sorts who have a burning
desire to tangle with Illiana must sign a waiver... and it comes with a
fire extinguisher chaser, although I would recommend a cooling lassi to
quench those predicted flames.
House Nectar is Zenna’s more considerate offering. This has both an
alcoholic and a virgin version, as do many of the cocktails here.
Chairman's Reserve rum, lychee juice, fresh lime and coriander contrive
to make this an aromatic and refreshing choice on warm nights.
Garden Martini is a cocktail for those who want to feel noble. Bombay Sapphire gin, mint,
lime, apple, cucumber, elderflower cordial and apple juice must surely
constitute a couple of your five a day. The garnish of cucumber and
mint wafts one to a newly-cut lawn and perhaps a swaying hammock. This
might be the token Anglo-Indian cocktail.
Bee Sting is my all-time favourite. Honey vodka, honey liqueur, lemon
juice, jalapeño peppers, peach liqueur and white peach puree are
skilfully shaken to build a sweet yet pleasantly spicy cocktail that
will entice this reviewer back for an encore. I am not, to be honest,
one much driven in the direction of mixed drinks, but Dan Thompson has
probably spoiled me for the less vibrant goods of other baristas.
Zenna has much to recommend it. Good location, chic ambiance,
professional and charming staff and memorable cocktails. It is indeed a
destination in its own right. The bar food is mouth-watering and takes
its cue from the Red Fort, which should be proud of its offspring.
Asian bar review: Zenna Bar
Basement, 77 Dean Street, Soho
London W1D 3SH
Phone: 020 7437 2525
Asian cookbook review: Japanese
Bible
There is no denying the popularity of Japanese food
in the UK these days. There has been a proliferation of new restaurants
showcasing that cuisine. All of our cities will have some and many have
a slew of sushi-peddling establishments, but few offer extensive menus
of
cooked Japanese food. Even the Japanese do not live by sushi alone.
Nice from time to
time but boring for both lunch and dinner seven days a week.
We can easily cook real Japanese food ourselves.
The Japanese have cold snowy winters just as we do in Northern Europe
and they need hearty and hot fare just like us. This volume offers a
good
over-view of authentic Japanese cuisine, and the ingredients will
mostly be on-hand
in your local chain supermarket.
If one still craves cool rice then try Onigiri.
These are stuffed rice balls and the equivalent of a sandwich. They are
a staple of bento boxes which are sold at every Japanese railway
station.
They are simple to make and can be filled either
with some well-flavoured left-overs or the suggested stuffing of tuna
and
Japanese mayo. These would be a great addition to an Asian buffet.
Donburi are those bowls of hot rice with various toppings. Prawn
Sukiyaki on rice
has a mound of garnishes that are light yet flavourful. It’s a complete
meal
and very attractive. Use the basic recipe but substitute the seafood
with thin
slices of cooked beef or a selection of vegetables. Fried Pork Cutlet
might not
sound very Japanese but in fact it’s very popular and it makes a good
topping. Donburi is traditional and versatile.
Green Tea Ice-cream is my pick of the book. Tea in all its guises is
more popular
than ever these days. We have enjoyed a revival in the classic English
afternoon tea, but it’s the health properties that have given these
leaves a boost.
Japanese green tea has a distinctive agreeable taste and imparts a
beautiful
pistachio-green colour when used to infuse milk-based dishes. Green Tea
Ice Cream makes
a fitting end to a Japanese meal, where presentation is key to success.
Its delicate flavour calms the palate, and a simple mound of this could
persuade many of us down the Zen path. Nothing fussy here: few
ingredients
providing a confection that is as correct as an understated but
well-crafted
Ikebana – flower arrangement...and made in your very own understated
IKEA-inspired kitchen.
Japanese food might have been hi-jacked by fast conveyor-belt sushi
shops, and they
do have their place in the food chain, but we can prepare authentic
Japanese
food at home. No need for special knives or crockery, and the Japanese
Bible
introduces the reader to the dishes that the Japanese would cook for
themselves.
Asian cookbook review: Japanese Bible
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN: 978-1-4053-6326-6
London
Asian restaurant review:
Chinese Afternoon Tea at Grand Imperial
We think of afternoon tea as being the quintessentially
English event. Well, in fact if we were to be purists we would say that
it’s a traditionally Chinese occasion. Tea is, after all, Chinese,
although India can lay claim to commercial production for mass export.
The British were not even the first Europeans to appreciate tea.
The tea timeline runs something like this:
2737 BC. The second emperor of China, Shen Nung, made the first cup of
tea when leaves accidently blew into his cup of hot water.
400 AD. Tea is now called Kuang Ya in the Chinese dictionary.
Instructions on how to make a good cuppa are given. During the T'ang
Dynasty tea becomes a popular beverage in China and is prized for both
its flavour and its medicinal properties.
1589 Europeans first take an interest in tea when a Venetian author
suggests that the long lives of the Chinese are due to tea drinking.
1635 Tea becomes trendy at the Dutch court and in 1650 they introduce
tea to New Amsterdam, which later becomes New York.
1706 Thomas Twining serves tea at Tom’s Coffee House in London.
1773 The Boston Tea Party marks the end of the American love affair
with tea. Colonists disguised as Native Americans board East India
Company ships and throw hundreds of chests of tea into the harbour. Had
history been different then New Yorkers might now be ordering a cup of
delicate Taiwan Oolong Osmanthus instead of a “cup o’ Joe” (I never
have discovered who that “Joe” was.)
1840 Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, introduces Afternoon Tea, which
eventually becomes the English ritual we know today.
We see that our love of tea has endured for several centuries, but the
Chinese have been enjoying its qualities for thousands of years. Ask
Mr. Wong, the restaurant manager of Grand Imperial, for advice on which
teas might be the best for you. They have a marvellous selection here
so take advantage of expert advice and try a couple.
Oriental Afternoon Tea at Grand Imperial is remarkable. It has the
formal elements of a real English afternoon tea but the fare on offer
is unmistakably Chinese, with a contemporary and chocolatey twist.
There are regular cups and saucers and, yes, the traditional three-tier
stand, but those plates are piled with delicious morsels that are much
more exciting than a curly sandwich of white sliced and a wedge of
Victoria sponge.
Fresh black cod rolls, wrapped in Kataifi pastry formed part of the top
layer of delicacies. That pastry is a fine vermicelli-looking, crunchy
coating, covering a light and melting white fish interior. They were
joined on the scrumptious summit by my absolute favourite of all
Chinese snacks, Char Sui Bao. Those who visit Chinatown will recognise
these from dim sum steamers. They are snowy-white and fluffy steamed
buns which are filled with the traditional aromatic pork. The ones at
Grand Imperial are moreish.
Concubine Chicken Wrap and Shredded Duck Wrap were the savouries on the
second plate. They were both well flavoured and thoughtfully presented.
I had imagined that a wrap would involve bread but the Concubine
Chicken (I doubt that the chicken was really a concubine) was served on
a crisp lettuce cup, and the shredded duck on a concave disc of large
and substantial prawn cracker-like base. Both very light, summery and
flavourful.
Chocolate Dim Sum on the lowest plateau was almost too beautiful to eat
...almost. All of these miniatures had, obviously, chocolate as a theme
but each was an individual work of culinary art: crescents of almond
pastry, crunchy minuscule pumpkins, intricate Canton crackers and the
memorable coconut doughnut, which is my personal pick of the platter.
The Oriental Afternoon Tea is a very reasonable £20 per person
including tea. If you feel like treating yourself after a long day of
retail therapy then consider instead a sparkling wine afternoon tea –
with Balfour Brut English Rosé – for just £28 per person.
Grand Imperial is my oasis of classy calm in Victoria. I can think of
few places in that neighbourhood where I would prefer to spend an
afternoon. The restaurant is striking. One is never hurried or
pressured by overzealous waiters. The staff are charming and the food
never disappoints. Other guests will include Chinese visitors; they are
better judges than I of the authenticity of the food here and they
always seem content. Enjoy a leisurely afternoon tea ...and perhaps
linger for dinner.
Asian restaurant review: Grand Imperial Chinese restaurant
101 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0SJ
T: 020 7821 8898
E: reservations@grandimperiallondon.com
Visit Grand Imperial here
Asian cookbook review: Thai Bible
A few years ago Thai restaurants were rare but that’s
changed, and some lucky folks even get to have holidays in Thailand.
They return home and search for those exotic and evocative tastes of
Bangkok. Whilst it’s true that one can find some authentic dishes in
those aforementioned restaurants, one can’t eat out very often
...unless one is also a restaurant reviewer.
Thai Bible is part of a series from Dorling Kindersley, little books
that seem to weigh a lot for their size. 150 or so recipes in this
particular volume and a raft of colour photographs to tempt one into
the kitchen. The cooking techniques are simple and most dishes are fast
to prepare. You’ll find the majority of the ingredients at your local
supermarket, although a trip to an Asian store might be necessary if
you live in anything other than a cosmopolitan neighbourhood.
Looks like summer has arrived. It stayed dry in London for the Royal
Wedding and many of us have got the barbecue dusted off in readiness
for some scorching days. Well, OK, that might be a bit optimistic but
we can indeed expect some al fresco dining opportunities, and there are
many dishes in this volume that would lend themselves to such
occasions. Barbecued Pork Ribs are simple to prepare and the essential
marinade has few ingredients, all of which can be found in your regular
supermarket. I am sure the recipe would work equally well if one used
pork chops or even pork loin. Black pepper is the predominant spice
here.
Asian desserts are few and far between, so it was a surprise to find
almost a dozen here. Yes, they are Thai but they would be an apt finale
to any Asian meal. Coconut Custard has only four ingredients and makes
a stunning dinner party dessert with very little effort. Perhaps Mango
Sorbet would be my star choice from the Sweets chapter, though. This
recipe needs an ice-cream maker but you will be delighted by the end
results of your very slight labours. Mango has a distinct flavour that
loses nothing of its intensity in the freezing process.
I have several favourite recipes from Thai Bible. Mushrooms and Chinese
Cabbage in Oyster Sauce is savoury and moreish. The oyster sauce is not
at all fishy. It has in fact an almost meaty flavour which adds
richness to simple vegetarian dishes.
Grilled Mackerel with Chilli and Tamarind Sauce is the must-try
recommendation. Another one for the barbecue. This is an oily fish and
we should eat more of it. It has a marked flavour that I find agreeable
but this recipe offers a marinade of spicy character which might
persuade guests who don’t like fishy fish to try a corner. The fish
will cook in just 6 minutes so still time to slap on some burgers if
those friends are still unconvinced.
Thai Bible is amazing value for money. A chunky book filled with
practical recipes to remind you of long-haul vacations. Avoid the
airport misery and enjoy those tantalising aromas and delicious meals
emanating from your own kitchen.
Asian cookbook review: Thai Bible
Author: Jackie Passmore
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £5.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-6323-5
London Asian
restaurant review: The Chinese Cricket
Club
It’s appropriate that I have a review of this restaurant
just now. We have just watched the Cricket World Cup
semi-final and are about to settle in front of the TV to watch the
final (the equivalent of the American Super-Bowl or the Football World
Cup), when India will face Sri Lanka. But the food at this restaurant
is very definitely Chinese.
The restaurant is named in honour of the Chinese National Cricket Team,
who played their first international match in 2009. The title also
commemorates, so says the website for the restaurant, the recent
translation of the Laws of Cricket into Mandarin by the Asian Cricket
Council. So does that mean the Chinese played their match before they
had the rules?
The Chinese Cricket Club is across the lobby of the Crowne Plaza London
- The City from Refettorio, the hotel's Italian restaurant run by head
chef Alessandro and directed by Giorgio Locatelli. It’s refreshing to
find more and more notable restaurants housed in hotels. The days of
the assumption of a captive yet transient audience have gone. There were
few
over-nighting
businessmen
when
we
visited
the Chinese Cricket Club,
but there were a couple of tables occupied by those who were evidently
regulars, and some of those were themselves Chinese.
The restaurant is calm and contemporary, 80 covers set in an L-shape.
Nothing overtly Chinese apart from some calligraphy scrolls, and
nothing too crickety apart from a shirt and a bat. Enough decor
fixtures to provide continuity with the intriguing name, but not to
make one feel that your waiter should be wearing cricket whites and
pads.
Brendan Speed is the Executive Chef at The Chinese Cricket Club. No,
evidently he is not Chinese himself. He is Australian
and
has
always
had
a
passion
for authentic Chinese food. Australia is a
great cricketing nation but also has a thriving Asian cuisine culture.
Brendan launched and ran Zuma in Istanbul for two years and that
restaurant won a raft of awards. Before that, he was Executive Chef at
Movenpick Hotels and Resorts in both Istanbul and Dar Es Salaam – a
well-travelled and experienced chef who is ably assisted by Guanghao
Wu, a Specialist Oriental Chef with a 20-year career.
I do love the wasabi nuts at the Chinese Cricket Club. OK, so they are
not traditionally Chinese but nevertheless moreish and
hot, preparing our taste buds for some tingling Sichuan and Hunan spice
later; and not much later as we were soon picking at a plate of dry
sautéed green beans. This is
a practical method of cooking such beans: the colour remains vibrant
and the vegetables retain a crunch. These particular beans had
agreeable chilli heat.
Soft-Shell Crab with Chilli Mayonnaise was a dish of rich decadence.
However did we manage before soft-shell crab? They are popular and it’s
no surprise. The version at the Chinese Cricket Club is
as much about texture as taste. The mayo added gentle spice.
Singapore Cricket Club Noodles were a high-end variant of others you
would probably have had. The difference here is the quality of those
non-noodle ingredients. Large prawns made this simple dish into a
rather luxurious plateful.
Jumbo Prawns with Ginger was visually the most spectacular of our
chosen dishes. The shellfish was tender with a light glaze. These are
more like small lobsters than your regular prawns, even those which
sport the additional monica of ‘Jumbo.’ A subtle hint of ginger was a
foil for the sweetness of the seafood.
Twice-Cooked Pork was memorable and must be a signature dish. I had
expected chunks of the regular belly pork but the reality here was much
more delicate. The slices of pork were thin-cut and melting, lightly
spiced with rich and well-rounded flavour. I’ll not miss this on my
return visit – for return there will be.
Hunan Lamb with Scallions is striking and full-bodied. Robust flavours
here and just what one would expect from any recipe
hailing from Hunan. This dish had a complex flavour palate and the
spice was not numbing. A dish to savour with just some
steamed rice.
Chilled Coconut Custard with Mango Sauce and a scattering of Lychee was
the sweet finale. Creamy with tang from the mango and exotic perfume
from the lychee. A suitably tropical end to one of the best Chinese
meals I have had in London. The Chinese Cricket Club offers an oasis of
quiet, garnished with delicious food and service that is second to
none. It deserves its enviable reputation.
London Asian restaurant review: The Chinese Cricket Club
Crowne Plaza London - The City
19 New Bridge Street, London EC4V 6DB
Phone: 020 7438 8051
Fax: 020 7438 8080
Email: info@chinesecricketclub.com
Visit the Chinese Cricket Club here
London
Asian restaurant review:
Café
Spice
Namasté
Khaadras Club Night
In the seventh century, Arab armies conquered Persia (now
Iran). Some Zoroastrians were converted to Islam whilst others fled to
India. They settled in the western part of the country where the
community already had trading contacts, and they established
settlements to the north of Mumbai. Their descendants founded the
community which later took the name Parsi (Parsee),
They were not universally welcomed in India. Jadi Rana, the king of
Gujurat, is said to have pleaded “My country is overflowing already so
how would we find room for you as well?” The leader of the Parsi
community asked for a bowl of milk filled to the brim and also a
spoonful of sugar. He then carefully stirred the sugar into to the bowl
without spilling a drop of milk. “We are like sugar. We will only
sweeten your land.” explained the Parsi.
Parsis have enjoyed great success in India but we in London also have a
celebrated Parsi who has come to sweeten London with his notable and
delicious food, and he even offers his guests the chance to try some
traditional Parsi fare. Celebrated chef Cyrus Todiwala invites one and
all to The Khaadras Club Night!
This ‘Greedy Gourmand’s Club’ was established after Parsi friends
begged Cyrus and his wife and partner, Pervin, for some dishes from
their own community. It was to be a meeting of friends with a focus on
food. It has become such a popular event that Café Spice
Namasté has made these feasts available at intervals throughout
the year. The event is always eagerly awaited by Parsis but equally by
lovers of fine food, and as this is a true Parsi event one can be sure
that the helpings will be generous. It is indeed well-named the Greedy
Gourmand’s Club.
The food on these evenings is authentic and presented to an audience
comprised of many who know exactly what they want, and how it should be
cooked and presented. I am no expert on this little-known cuisine but I
can attest to the fact that the food was mouth-watering, served with
many smiles and much good humour, and there was plenty of it – food and
humour, that is. This wasn’t just an evening at any old restaurant.
This was a Todiwala celebration and had the air of a family party.
Cyrus and Pervin are famed for knowing their regulars by name, and that
warmth is magnified on these special evenings when all of us were
welcomed as friends.
The company was outstanding, with many a story told and laughs provided
by our hosts. But the food was the centre of our convivial evening.
Saria/achaar was a basket of light crackers served with spicy chutneys,
while Waffer Nay Bhaji Purr Eedu – finely chopped onion sautéed
with minced garlic and cumin, blended with chopped spinach and wafers,
gently simmered with whole steamed egg on top, served with crispy naan
– was our first course.
Chutney May Luptaeli Machchi - filet of fish folded over with fresh
green chutney, rolled in flour, dipped in egg, fried and served on
Tamota Ni Gravy Nay Rotli, a rich tomato sauce – was exceptional.
The main course was Vaegna Ni Buriani - Lamb and Aubergine stew –
although the name does not honestly do this dish justice - dark and
flavorsome meat wrapped in slices of melting aubergine: there must be a
better word than stew. There was more meat in the guise of Masala Ma
Taraeli Jungli Murghi Ni Boti – dices of chicken marinated
in
red
masala,
pan
fried,
which
was
remarkable
for
its
crunchy
texture.
Moreish
when
served
with
Papaeta
Nay
Mohhtta
Murcha
-
cubes of potato
cooked with diced mixed peppers, cumin and garlic.
Saev Nay Mitthu Dahi is a traditional Parsi dessert served at
celebrations, a confection of vermicelli, fruit and nuts served with
thick yoghurt which was a fitting sweet end to a meal that was indeed a
celebration of Parsi culinary heritage and culture.
This veritable feast is prepared just once every couple of months, and
has a different menu every time: these regulars want to see different
dishes to tempt their well-educated palates. At a very reasonable
£25 for all of that food, I’ll be returning again and again.
Book by contacting Binay Aryal at binay@cafespice.co.uk
London Asian restaurant review:
Café Spice Namast, 16 Prescot Street, London E1 8AZ
Open Monday – Friday
Lunch: 12.00 – 3.00 pm
Dinner: 6.15 – 10.30 pm
Asian cookbook review:
Food from Northern Laos
– The Boat Landing Cookbook
I am driven to describe some cookbooks as recipes with a
bit of travel. Other volumes I have reviewed as travel adventures with
some cooking on the side. Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing
Cookbook is as much a travelogue as an encyclopaedia of every culinary
tradition of Northern Laos.
Note that I suggest that there is more than one cuisine in Northern
Laos. In fact there are several distinct cultures that call this region
home. Some of these groups have lived there for many hundreds of years
whilst others have moved in more recently from the neighbouring
countries, and naturally they have brought with them their style of
cooking and their love of diverse foods.
The Boat Landing in question is a guest house and restaurant which
introduces travellers to the food of this corner of Laos. These dishes
represent the regular fare of the local population. They have been
carefully chosen to appeal to the Western palate but are authentic and
un-adapted.
Now, it’s true that there are some recipes here that will be a bit
challenging if one does not either live in the tropics or have access
to a good Asian supermarket. But there is much here that can be made
with the spices that you will likely have lingering at the back of your
larder. There are even dishes that are familiar to lovers of south-east
Asian food. Pho originated in Vietnam but now this soup has become a
Laotian favourite.
The book starts by tempting the reader to visit this charming and
culturally rich corner of our shrinking planet. Each of the resident
communities is presented in prose and pictures. It’s a small world
that’s fast changing – this book is as much about archiving the lives
and values of the population of Northern Laos as it is about preserving
its culinary heritage. A couple of hours in the company of this book
will have even those who are strangers to the inside of a kitchen
booking a flight to Laos.
Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing Cookbook is a must for any
passionate cook who might be considering a trip to south-east Asia.
Many of us are enthusiastic home chefs who are comfortable preparing
Indian curries, Japanese domburis, Chinese dim sum and Thai soups, but
this book introduces so many unfamiliar ingredients and combinations.
Yes, it’s true that some dishes have been influenced by other cuisines,
but Laos has indeed cultivated its own culinary identity.
Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing Cookbook is well written,
and illustrated by some of the finest photography of that region that
one will ever find. A credit to both the author, Dorothy Culloty, and
the photographer, Kees Sprengers.
Asian cookbook review: Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing
Cookbook
Author: Dorothy Culloty; photographer: Kees Sprengers
Published by: Galangal Press
ISBN 978-0-473-17236-7
Asian cookbook review:
100 Essential Curries –
Madhur Jaffrey
Whilst it’s some time since the Grande Dame of Indian
cooking has graced our screens, it’s true that she remains our classic
Indian TV food presenter. She wafted into our homes in a flourish of
sari and with a collection of exotic ingredients that many of us had
never heard of.
A couple of decades have passed since that first introduction. Now we
all know that ginger doesn’t come in a jar with syrup, and it did have
another form before it became a powder. We can appreciate that there
really is no such thing as curry powder, although that lurid yellow
compound from a cardboard tub was our only “Indian” ingredient for a
century or so. But Madhur is thankfully still with us to offer us
authentic and adapted recipes to inspire us anew.
100 Essential Curries offers, yes, curry but also those dishes that one
adds to make a complete meal. One could choose to use plain rice to
accompany sauced dishes but Madhur offers some traditional alternatives
that are simple to prepare. Rice with Black-eyed Peas is hearty and
perfumed with cloves and a hint of garam masala. Lemon rice is subtle
and light and I often serve this with fish. It was originally made with
lime juice but this recipe has both lemon juice and rind. It’s worth
getting curry leaves rather than substituting basil if one is having
this with other Indian dishes.
More and more of us are eating less and less meat these days. Some
folks want to treat their bodies like temples and prefer to tread the
meat-free path. Others have issues revolving around the non-consumption
of anything with pretty eyes. Lentils are an ideal meat substitute. Not
that I am suggesting that meat is such an invaluable part of the diet
of any thinking person that it needs a conscious replacement. India has
a wealth of lentil dishes that are economic and nutritious but also
delicious and that is, after all, your reason for eating them.
Red Lentils with the celebrated Indian five-spice, panchphoran, has few
ingredients and takes only 40 minutes to cook, and even less time than
that if one uses a pressure cooker, ubiquitous in Indian kitchens even
in the UK. The five spices in question are cumin, fennel, mustard
seeds, fenugreek and black onion seeds. It’s sold ready prepared or one
could use equal quantities of the above and mix the spices oneself.
This is an aromatic dal that can be eaten with just Indian bread or
rice, or as a side dish for any Indian meat or fish.
My pick of the book is Cardamom and Black Pepper Chicken. All the
spices are those you will likely have in your larder and the dish,
after marinating, takes about as long as does the rice to cook. This
recipe uses black pepper as flavouring rather than as a background
seasoning. It gives not only heat but a distinct taste to the dish. A
winter warmer.
100 Essential Curries by Madhur Jaffrey has a melange of contemporary
and traditional recipes. They have been chosen with the European home
cook in mind. There is nothing here that will be over-taxing for the
novice, and there is plenty to excite the interest of those who already
have a collection of Indian cookbooks. Each recipe has a picture on the
opposite page and that always gives a bit of confidence, even to us
practised cooks. Here you will find real Indian food from a real
Indian. Madhur reminds us of the reasons we took her to our hearts in
the first place. She is quite simply a good food writer, and this
volume must be just about the best value of all her cookbooks. Buy this
and the others will surely follow.
Asian cookbook review: 100 Essential Curries
Author: Madhur Jaffrey
Published by: Random House
Price: £7.99
ISBN: 978-0-09-194052-2
London Asian restaurant
review: Grand Imperial London
This recently-opened Chinese restaurant occupies part of a
striking building and has undergone a £2m refurbishment.
It’s
part
of
the
Grosvenor
Hotel
right
next
to
Victoria
Station.
The
Grosvenor
is
one of London’s great Victorian railway hotels, which
still retains many period features reflecting its heritage. The hotel,
formerly known as Thistle Victoria, is within walking distance of many
of London's famous tourist sites including Buckingham Palace and the
Houses of Parliament.
Entrepreneur Rand Cheung has created a stunning restaurant with a
design guided by the principles of feng shui. The opening night had a
lion dance for luck, but this isn’t an over-themed restaurant although
there are plenty of tasteful hints at Oriental opulence and style.
Grand Imperial is part of a Malaysian restaurant group which opened
their first restaurant in Kuala Lumpur in December 2008. This London
restaurant is their fifth project, but the first outside Malaysia. The
Head Chef at the restaurant is Leung Chi Keung, who has over 20 years
of experience in high-end
restaurants in China.
This is one of the most impressive restaurants of any ethnic
persuasion. The high windows are draped in stark black curtains which
offer a stylish contrast against white linen and gold-leafed screens.
There is a VIP suite hidden behind those screens and that offers
private dining in the most sumptuous style.
The menu is varied and enticing. Yes, it’s true that one eats with
one’s eyes, and the chef here displays outstanding presentation skills
as well as a sense of adventure. He uses Foie Gras to great advantage
in several dishes. Something here for every taste with a great
selection of fish and shellfish in all its guises.
My starter platter of dim sum included Jellyfish with Chilli Sauce.
This was vibrant with flavour and heat with an agreeable texture.
Nothing slimy or sinister here. Served chilled it was refreshing and
light. Jellyfish is said to be good for sore throats. The seafood
shreds were joined by a grilled Goose Foie Gras Dumpling which was
piping hot, rich and flavourful,
but
the
star
of
the
plate
was
the
succulent
Roasted
Duck
with
its
lacquered
skin.
Sautéed cubes of Beef with Black Pepper Sauce served on a bed of
onions was an absolute triumph. The meat was as tender as I have ever
had, but the sauce was the memorable element. Black pepper is a
much-underrated spice. It has graced even the most humble of dinner
tables for centuries and we take it for granted. The Grand Imperial has
a recipe that shows the qualities of those peppercorns with a dish that
has unadulterated flavour and aromatic warmth. Don’t miss this one.
Pan-fried Stuffed Scallop with Minced Shrimp and Foie Gras sounded a
strange combination. Yes, it’s easy to envisage all types of seafood
combining harmoniously together but I wasn’t sure how the second
appearance of foie gras would work. The scallop was tender and the foie
gras was served as a fine sauce, which was mild and savoury and a much
more subtle accompaniment than the usual bacon or chorizo.
Wok-fried rice “Hokkien” style with Duck and Prawns in a rich gravy is
a dish that is similar to those found in Fujian province in
south-eastern China. This was probably the most recognisably
traditional course from the menu. The rice filled any little empty
corners we might have had, and had the appeal of home cooking – nothing
spicy and with no particular ingredient taking centre stage. This was
Chinese comfort food.
Chilled Cream of Sago with Mango and Pomelo was a cool and soothing
dessert. Saffron-yellow with evidence of real fruit. No need for fear:
the sago is nothing like the wallpaper paste effort of school days. The
dessert was sophisticated and refreshing.
The food at the Grand Imperial is excellent and the décor is
well considered, taking advantage of its imposing Victorian
architecture as well as paying homage to China. Its location will
assure its success, but it deserves to have its food taken seriously as
well.
Grand Imperial London is open 7 days a week 12pm - 3pm and 5.30pm - 11pm
London Asian restaurant review: Grand Imperial London
101 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0SJ
Phone: 020 7821 8898
Email: reservations@grandimperiallondon.com
Visit Grand Imperial here
London Asian restaurant
review: ORA Thai Food and Jazz
There is a world of tranquillity just behind the buzz and
throng of Oxford Street. That celebrated retail hub is a river
of
bag-burdened
humanity
even
on
a
Sunday
but
there
is
a
haven
awaiting
the
savvy
shopper
just
a
few
yards
away.
Thai restaurant ORA could easily be overlooked and that
would be a shame. It has an unassuming front door on
a side street
off Regent Street. Pass through that portal and one is transported to a
contemporary refuge populated by graceful ladies and gentlemen whose
sole purpose seems to be to calm the vexed psyche and to smooth the
furrowed brow by way of truly delicious food, and now they even the
offer the prospect of some live jazz.
ORA is launching its new Jazz Evenings which will be held every Sunday
from 20th March to 10th April. Diners on those evenings can choose from
a special three-course set menu for £25, which includes a glass
of champagne, and will also have the opportunity to win a trip to
Thailand. The evenings will run from 6.30 till 10.30.
City Jazz, formed by saxophonist Sam Sharp, has many years’ experience
playing worldwide as well as at prestigious venues in London such as
the Royal Albert Hall, the South Bank Centre and The Barbican Centre.
Sam will invite guests to accompany him each week and will play a
melange of jazz in both classic and modern styles.
City Jazz will have ORA as its regular Sunday night home for a while.
The restaurant has an ideal ambiance for this kind of event. Its black
walls and furnishings give the air of a nightclub when it’s throbbing
with diners, but that same dark interior is romantic on other evenings
when occupied by those seeking a more intimate environment. ORA’s head
chef Tamas Khan's regular à la carte menu of traditional Thai
dishes offered us a wealth of temptations. I am no expert on Thai
cuisine but the food sounded enticing, and the reality lived up to our
hopes.
We chose some cocktails to sip while we pondered the menu, and these
were exotic and thirst-quenching. Thai Breeze sounded appropriate, and
it was one of those deftly-layered drinks which one immediately
un-layers. I often wonder what goes through the bartender’s mind as he
sees the recipient of his labours thoughtlessly swirling a straw.
Lemongrass- and vanilla-infused vodka, fresh lime juice, cranberry
juice and grapefruit juice combined to produce a dangerous tipple. It
would be all too easy to succumb to a few too many of these.
Although I am indeed a consumer of alcohol in all its guises I must
confess that one of the best cocktails I have ever had was the Gulf of
Thailand. This was a vibrant mix of fresh mint, fresh galangal, lemon
and ginger cordial, fresh lime juice, apple juice, and ginger beer. It
didn’t have that noble and watery sense of a non-alcoholic beverage. I
could have been persuaded that there was a hidden shot or two of some
kind of spirit. The hit of ginger gave the drink real substance.
My guest chose Kanom Beurg Sai Gai as his starter. This
was a savoury pancake stuffed with chicken, bean sprouts and fresh
herbs, served with cucumber salsa. The saffron-coloured pancake was
filled with truly smoky smoked chicken. The sauce was tangy and light.
The crispy calamari and black- pepper sauce Pla Mauek Kratiam Prik Tai
was a second starter that we couldn’t resist. The rich pepper sauce was
a spicy foil for the sweet and crispy seafood.
We ordered Pad Thai Koong - Thai rice ribbon noodles with prawns in
sweet and sour tamarind sauce and peanuts – as our first main dish. It
was a good example of this classic, and contained large and evident
prawns which elevated this noodle dish above versions that one might
find in other restaurants. Another example of the effort that ORA makes
to remain noteworthy in a restaurant-saturated market.
Kae Pad Phed – lamb with Thai aubergine, kaffir lime
leaves and red chilli paste – was a piquant triumph. The succulent
strips of meat had a shiny mahogany hue. Yes, there was a striking
chilli punch but this provided mouth-filling flavour rather than
overpowering heat. We were coaxed back to the remains of this dish even
when we had truly had enough to eat. Just another little nibble seemed
to beckon. Moreish and memorable.
Whilst the Kae Pad Phed should be a signature dish, the Massamun Neur –
beef cooked in Massamun curry sauce, nuts and potatoes – could be
considered its equal. A very different dish but remarkable. I was
expecting chunks of potato but ORA presents a cube of precisely sliced,
trimmed and stacked vegetable. A small touch, but once again showing
the attention to detail. The meat was slow-cooked to melting. The sauce
was the star here, though. I would have enjoyed this just spooned over
plain rice. It was aromatic, creamy and comforting, and a must-try from
this menu.
Sarm Sa-Hai – a selection of traditional Thai desserts –
was a tray of three banana leaf-wrapped squares of creamy
white
confections
that
were
almost
too
attractive
to
eat.
They
illustrated
the
simple
elegance
of
Thai
food
in
general.
ORA has a convenient location and a fascinating menu. It’s true that I
don’t know much about Thai food but I can vouch for the quality of
ingredients and the mouth-watering results of the chef’s efforts. We
are planning a return visit to try more dishes and to learn more about
this increasingly popular cuisine.
London Asian restaurant review:ORA
Thai restaurant
6 Little Portland Street, Fitzrovia, London W1W 7JE
Phone: 020 7637 0125
Visit ORA here
London Asian restaurant
review: Awana Roti Spectacle
Food is best when shared with friends – even more so when
there’s fun and laughter and cooking together. Awana offers a
masterclass in the art of roti-making and that presents a marvellous
opportunity to enjoy good food, convivial company and to learn an
amazing trick of Malaysian kitchen practice. The company is bound to be
convivial as you would have brought it with you, and the food is
guaranteed to be delicious as it’s provided by Awana.
Tully Filmer designed the interior of Awana using Malaysian teak houses
as inspiration. Rich mid-tone wood, silk panels and glass screens
contrive to make this a high-end but accessible restaurant. It has an
unmistakable and cultivated charm, and some of the most adept yet
friendly staff of any restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. This is
confident restaurant design. It is recognisably Asian but it uses none
of the usual décor clichés to make that statement.
Perhaps London's only fine-dining Malaysian restaurant, this Sloane
Avenue establishment introduces us to the culinary tapestry of
Malaysia. Roti Canai is a traditional combination of flaky flatbread
(you will learn how to make this at the masterclass) and a sauce into
which the roti is dipped. It’s a meal that is comforting and exotic,
and certainly one of my favourites.
The Roti masterclass is £55 per person and includes a set dish of
Nasi Lemak (coconut rice, peanut and anchovy, deep-fried prawns,
chicken curry, sambal chilli and fried egg). This price also includes
either a soft drink, a beer or a glass of wine. Classes can be booked
at any time, making this one of the most accessible group events around.
We started our class and it soon drew the attention of the regular
diners. We mixed and kneaded our balls of dough to
the required
degree of elasticity (some with more success than others), and then we
congregated around the bread-making station for a demonstration from a
master. I guess that’s why it’s called a masterclass: he was the master
and we were, as expected, outclassed.
This is pure culinary theatre. Small and insignificant balls of dough
were deftly swirled and turned into paper-thin sheets, which were then
folded to give a multi-layered bread ready for the griddle. We (well
most of us – I held tight to my excuse of a camera) had a try at
roti-twirling, using various unorthodox modes of flipping, producing
rotis of unique form and frilliness. Many a disaster was salvaged by
the skilled hands of the professional, but there were a
few would-be chefs who shone.
Our meal concluded with a further roti demonstration
by
the
Awana
chef,
but
this
time
the
roti
showed
its
more
delicate,
sweet
nature.
Those
sheets
of roti dough, instead of being folded into
light and flaky bread, were left as a single sheets which were griddled
with butter and sugar, and then coaxed into a thin and crisp cone which
was served in spectacular fashion drizzled with chocolate sauce.
The evening is about fun with friends or colleagues. An
opportunity for an entertaining girls’ or boys’ night out or perhaps
some bonding with new business associates. A real ice-breaker followed
by a delicious meal cooked by a real chef. Unbeatable value for a
cookery lesson and food.
London Asian restaurant review: Awana -
Chelsea
85 Sloane Avenue, London SW3 3DX
Email: info@awana.co.uk
Phone:020 7584 8880
Fax:020 7584 6188
Asian cookbook review: Sichuan
Cookery
I had never been a great Chinese food aficionado. I didn’t
know enough about the subject to make informed choices when confronted
by a Chinese restaurant menu. So much of it seemed to be rather mild,
although pleasant and with diversity of texture, and so often
attractively presented.
There were, however, those dishes that did rather tempt and intrigue
me. Those plates of red-lacquered meats or vegetables with a strand of
sliced red chilli and perhaps a deep-fried peanut or two. Why were
these dishes so different? It’s still Chinese food isn’t it? Well, yes,
but China is a big country and Sichuan is the size of France. There is
bound to be culinary diversity and I had struck on a regional cuisine
that did appeal.
Fuchsia Dunlop is our very own Grande Dame (I think she might be a bit
young to shoulder that burden) of Sichuan cooking. She isn’t given that
accolade because she has enjoyed many a spicy meal in restaurants. She
hasn’t been acclaimed as an authority because she has attended a few
Chinese cookery classes at her local adult education college. Fuchsia
honestly is an expert and is considered so even by Chinese citizens –
she has lived and studied in this very province of Sichuan.
Sichuan Cookery is truly a worthy tome that will enthral anyone who has
enjoyed those hot-chilli flavours and the unique numbing sensation and
savour of Sichuan pepper. It’s a book for lovers of robust tastes and
gloriously richly coloured foods. It’s a volume that truly does get
one’s mouth watering.
This book is a veritable culinary encyclopaedia and travelogue. It
offers the academic a feast of facts and historic anecdote. For those
of us who want to grab the wok and cook, Fuchsia presents us with the
best dishes that the region has to offer. Plenty of spice but also a
raft of subtle recipes that are equally authentic. For example, fried
eggs with tomatoes only has salt and pepper and the green parts of
spring onions for seasoning.
The spicy dishes will be the ones that will likely get your attention,
though. They will be the reason you were drawn to the book. They are
here in profusion, packed with flavour but simple to prepare. There is
a glossary of ingredients so you’ll be able to complete your Sichuan
pantry with just a quick trip to Chinatown or a simple surf of the net.
I have favourites from every section of this book and Steamed Buns with
Spicy Beansprout Stuffing is my choice from the Streetfood chapter.
There are steamed buns found in various parts of China but this recipe
is distinctly Sichuanese with a filling flavoured with chilli bean
paste. Fun finger food.
The pick of the book, for me at least, is Spicy Beef Slices with
Tangerine Peel. It has all those components that make this particular
Chinese cuisine so enticing. Chilli spice balanced with layers of
well-chosen flavours, in this case hints of citrus and Sichuan pepper
for that typical taste and tongue-tingle.
Fuchsia Dunlop is rightly recognised for her considerable knowledge but
you’ll buy this book because she shares her know-how in a most engaging
fashion. She writes with style, humour and consideration for the home
cook, whom she supports and encourages. This is surely, or will in
future become, a Chinese cookery classic.
Sichuan Cookery
Author: Fuchsia Dunlop
Published by: Penguin
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-140-29541-2
Asian
cookbook review: Ken Hom –
100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
I have long been a fan of compact and concise cookbooks,
the ones that present a recipe on one page and a confidence-boosting
picture on the opposite page, single-topic books that one will truly
take into the kitchen and use. This series from My Kitchen Table (they
have a supporting web site at http://www.mykitchentable.co.uk) ticks
all the boxes for me. Yes, the format is just right, but the recipes
are what count.
Ken Hom is an internationally celebrated authority on Chinese food and
cooking. He was the first Chinese to have great success on UK TV with
his ground-breaking cookery show in 1984, Ken Hom's Chinese Cookery on
the BBC. He began his culinary career in his uncle's Chicago restaurant
at the tender age of eleven, before eventually becoming a lecturer at
California's Culinary Academy.
He has written over 30 cookery books which have been well received
worldwide. He has fronted numerous TV series as well as having his own
product range including a wok, an example of which graces the kitchen
of this reviewer. Ken was awarded an honorary OBE for 'services to the
culinary arts' in 2009 so it’s evident that we in Britain have adopted
this man and taken him to our hearts.
His list of culinary achievements and gongs is impressive but we just
love this man’s food. He has become so successful because his food is
accessible. We have an abundance of oriental ingredients and are drawn
to healthy and quick dishes made with either a Ken Hom wok or one
purchased from the local Chinese grocer. 100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
reflects the way we eat today ...or should.
The recipes are divided by food type. Plenty of vegetarian and fish
dishes but even the meat dishes are fast to prepare and will leave you
feeling noble. There are Chinese dishes aplenty here but also spicy
temptations from Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia and
even Italy. The focus is on the cooking method rather than the
geographic origin of the food.
I have heard so many people complain that they can’t make fried rice.
They wonder if there is some kind of secret or perhaps there is a
particular variety of rice known only to the owners of Chinese
restaurants or take-aways. Well, yes, there is a little secret known
only to millions. One must use cooked and cooled rice. Ken offers us a
basic but indispensable recipe for egg-fried rice. It’s fool-proof and
will be a key element in turning many of these recipes into full meals.
We should all eat more fish. It’s healthy and there is plenty of
choice. Stir-Fried Fish with Black Bean Sauce is the dish that will
inspire those who insist they hate fish because it’s bland. This recipe
makes use of pungent and salty black beans. 1½ teaspoons are all
that’s needed to flavour fish enough for 4 people. Robust flavours and
a meal that doesn’t cost the earth.
My pick of the book is Spicy Chicken with Peanuts. It’s also known as
Kung Pau or Kung Po Chicken, an attractive dish of lacquered meat with
flecks of vibrant red dried chillies. A recipe for which to use that
dusty bottle of dry sherry – it makes a convincing substitute for
shaoxing rice wine.
100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes is a practical collection of well-chosen
recipes to suit all tastes. We all want to eat well but without the
need to take up long-term residence in the kitchen. This will likely
become the book you reach for when strapped for time or cash.
Great value for money.
Author: Ken Hom
Title: 100 Quick Stir-fry Recipes
Published by: Random House
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84-990147-5
London Asian restaurant review:
Inamo –
St James
Inamo is the brainchild, more accurately brain
children, of owners Danny Potter and Noel Hunwick, who met when they
were
undergraduates at Oxford. Inamo is a pioneering Oriental fusion
restaurant and
bar concept. The Inamo Restaurant (Soho) had the interactive tabletops
as its
unique
selling point. The overhead projectors provide a changeable
cyber-tablecloth as
well as direct food and drink ordering. Your dishes are delivered by a
human
and help is on hand should your digital ineptitude result in a request
for 25
portions of Crispy Five Spiced Pork Belly and a pot of green tea.
Following the success of the Soho
original there is
now a second restaurant, on the former St Alban site on Regent Street –
a prime
location for a Japanese restaurant in a parade that has several shops
and
restaurants of the same ethnic persuasion. With a total capacity of 300
and spanning
a colossal 8,000 ft², the venue could have had all the charm of an
aircraft hangar.
It has taken thoughtful design to make this restaurant feel intimate.
The Soho branch was unique and fun
but St. James is
Inamo all growed up. Yes there is still the techy element but it’s
upstaged by
the decor. It reminds one of walking through a glade of bamboo. OK, so
not many
of us can boast of having had such an experience, but we can imagine.
Chunky
stands of straw-coloured bamboo act as dividers, while movable screens
offer
flexibility – a corner for a romantic dinner, a space for an after-work
gathering.
There are a further two private
dining rooms which can
seat up to 16 each, where one can have a more personally
tailored
dining
experience
and
even
bring
along
one’s
own
music.
Perhaps
those
tunes
should
reflect
the
ethnic
style
of
the
restaurant.
Snatches
from
the
Japanese
classics
rather
than
J-pop or, heaven forbid, Abba.
The bar at Inamo St James is striking
and accommodates
not only cocktail preparation but that of sushi and sashimi and the
like. Two
deft chefs prepare your food to order. It’s an area in which to
congregate
before moving to your table.
The sophisticated fusion menu has
influences from
Japan, China, Thailand, and Korea. Small dishes can be ordered like
oriental
tapas. You can take your time and graze, the interactive menu lets the
diner
pick and order individual dishes at will. Allow your meal to evolve.
We settled at the sushi bar and
watched as our food was prepared. We were taken by the new dishes on
offer. Black
Bean Tuna – seared tuna coated in black bean and wasabi, served
on
pickled
mouli with cucumber miso dressing – was a flavourful delight. I must
admit that
I often find cold Japanese fish dishes to be bland, but this one hit
all the
right textural and taste notes.
Unagi Maki – grilled eel and avocado
maki wrapped
in chives – is another must-try from the Small Dish section. Eel is a
popular
oily fish and it’s a shame we don’t find it more often on Western
menus. It
seems to be a staple in Japanese restaurants so I usually take
advantage.
Beef Buri Bop – a traditional
Japanese rice dish
served in a hot metal casserole with garlic soy, ginger sauce and
rib-eye steak
– was the star of the evening. There is an element of theatre
surrounding this
dish. A human arrives with your cast-iron vessel. He removes the lid
with a
flourish to reveal a mound of rice with an egg yolk returning one’s
gaze like a
jaundiced Cyclops. There is a garnish of almost raw meat and a small
jug of
sauce which is poured around the rice. The contents of the pot are then
mixed
with a few stirs and scrapes to reveal golden rice crust on the bottom.
The egg
and the meat cook on the hot metal and a delicious aroma rises
from this
substantial dish.
If you loved the Soho Inamo then you
will be
equally pleased with the St James sister restaurant. If you didn’t like
Inamo
Soho then do try St James. It has the same fascinating selection of
dishes but
the ambiance is a world away. It has a focus on style and it’s achieved
that
very well.
London Asian restaurant review: Inamo
4-12 Regent Street, London SW1Y 4PE
For reservations phone: 020 7484 0500
For private event bookings phone: 020
7104 2040
Email: reservations@inamo-stjames.com
Visit Inamo St James here
London Asian
restaurant review:
Triphal Indian
Restaurant – Southfields
Sarkhel’s was a celebrated Indian restaurant in
Southfields, between Wandsworth and Wimbledon. That restaurant has now
closed but it’s a strange irony that some of the staff from Sarkhel’s
have opened their own restaurant. The coincidences continue: Triphal,
the heir presumptive to Sarkhel’s, is right next door to the original
restaurant. It’s unfortunate that the former Sarkhel’s has just been
taken over by a competitor.
Triphal should not, however, be too anxious about the proximity of its
neighbour. It has only been open a few months but it has already
garnered glowing reviews from customers once loyal to Sarkhel’s.
Triphal is starting to attract its own following of regulars, and there
can be no finer accolade than that.
This is a small establishment that was a Thai restaurant in its
previous incarnation. The murals give a nod to floating markets but the
ambiance is pleasing, the staff attentive and the food as well executed
here as at any high-end central London Indian restaurant. Its menu is
confident and appealing with plenty of regional diversity and a hint of
individual inspiration.
Onion Pakora (crisp-fried onions in gram flour batter served with
tamarind chutney) is a standard in many a high-street curry house but
Triphal treats the dish with a bit of respect. The pakoras were light
and the ragged edges maintained their crunch till the end of our rather
leisurely first course.
Crispy Squid fried in spiced rice flour with lime zest and chilli was
another refined starter. The rice flour gave a white and delicate
coating to the squid. It’s my favourite seafood but it can so often
disappoint when the chef overcooks. There is nothing tempting in a
mouthful of elastic bands. The example at Triphal was just right and
moreish. Don’t order one portion to share as it’s unseemly to brawl in
public.
Rang Biranga Paneer (Homemade cottage cheese cubes marinated in
fenugreek leaf and cooked in the tandoor)
could stand alone as a main course with just a few accompaniments. A
striking skewer of large blocks of paneer interleaved with vegetables.
The cheese was gilded and deliciously scorched and had robust texture.
This showed the acceptable face of vegetarianism, a dish that is
substantial enough for even a meat-eater – a must-try starter.
Dal Makhani – slow-cooked black lentils finished with cream – is a
traditional favourite and Triphal adds just a little chilli heat. Order
lots of naan bread to scoop this dal as I promise you it’s some of the
lightest naan to be had. A simple element of the meal, but good bread
is a joy and in my opinion much more interesting than rice.
Chingri Malai Curry – King Prawn simmered in coconut and curry leaf
sauce – should surely become a signature dish. This is a mild,
saffron-coloured curry that is less heavy than some kormas that I have
eaten at other restaurants. Perhaps this is the dish to reserve for
that rice. The sauce was flavourful and it grieved me to leave even a
smear, but alas I was stuffed with side dishes of aubergines, and peas
and mushrooms ...and extra naan.
I wish every restaurant well but there are some that deserve to do very
well indeed. Triphal is one such establishment. Its success can only
depend on publicity. Its prices are more than competitive and the food
will assure your return. The chef here can compete with many who have
become household names. Word-of-mouth recommendations are worth more
than paragraphs in newspapers or magazines. Yes, my written review
encourages you to visit Triphal, but my mouth says “The food is a
delight” and “Can I have some more Chingri Malai Curry please?”
London Asian restaurant review: Triphal
Indian
Restaurant
–
Southfields
201 Replingham Road, Southfields, SW18 5LY
Tel: 020 8870 0188
Opening Times:
Open 7 days a week
Lunch - 12.00pm to 2.30pm
Dinner - 6.00pm to 10.30pm
London Asian restaurant
review: Namaasté Kitchen
Namaasté Kitchen is the new restaurant concept from
The Salaam Namaste Group. This latest venture is just a
few yards from Camden Town Underground station and on
bustling Parkway, a
neighbourhood that has long been associated with eclectic shopping and
food of varying degrees of quality. Namaasté Kitchen is a
welcome addition to the thoroughfare.
The brick façades and market stalls give a hint of Victoriana.
You will remember Bob Cratchit, the clerk to Ebenezer Scrooge. He lived
in Camden Town so one must suppose that dear Mrs. Cratchit would have
shopped in the very street that now houses Namaasté Kitchen. She
would have been, and indeed I was, impressed with the smart entrance to
this contemporary restaurant.
There are no overt Indian statues, paintings or
chachkies to give the clue to its culinary ethnicity.
The name over the door does that, but this modern establishment states
by its design that it’s a worthy restaurant that just
happens to offer sub-continental fare. Confidence is growing in the Asian
restaurant
world
and
it’s
good
to
see
the
more
adventurous
restaurants
taking
their
place
alongside
their
much-lauded
European
counterparts.
Indian
cuisine
is
one
of
the
world’s
classics,
so
should
need
none
of
the
trappings
of
a
theme
park
to
entice
visitors
across
the
threshold,
and
Namaasté
Kitchen
was
thankfully
devoid
of
such
excesses.
A
tasteful
Ganesh
is
attractive,
but
perhaps
not
a
tapestry
of
the
Taj
Mahal
at
midnight
–
that
should
go
the way of red flock wallpaper.
We settled ourselves at our table. Comfy ivory upholstery covered
the
ribbed
banquettes
and
chairs.
Furnishings
that
were
attractive
and
stylish
without
being
cold
and minimalist. An accent of
natural brick here, a wall of cut logs there, and an array of ceiling
lamps contrived a cosy space for couples yet provided flexible dining
for groups. Our companions for the evening were American, German and
Scottish businessmen, a brace or two of European tourists and some
young men who, just a couple of months after opening, had evidently
become regulars. A good sign.
At the far end of Namaasté Kitchen are several booths to cater
for private dining. Opposite there is an open grill/tandoor/tawa
station. This presents the prospect of a little culinary theatre at
weekends when the place is buzzing. The menu sweeps across the
subcontinent from Pakistan (good to see that country mentioned on
menus) to Goa. Not as long a menu as its sister restaurant but there is
something here for every taste.
I chose Soft-Shell Crab as my starter. The
batter was delicate and crunchy and the flavour was fresh. Good
presentation on the ever-popular slate. My guest, a man of carnivorous
disposition, was attracted by the Anglo-Indian Chicken Liver on Toast.
This was robust and hearty and a unique addition to Indian restaurant
menus, as far as I am aware. He professed this dish to be delicious,
rich, well seasoned, and the thick slice of apple was a good foil for
the offal.
Biryani can be such an enticing dish if well executed. In the past we
were subjected to rice dishes that owed more to Vesta than Vishnu
(although biryani is said to have originated in Persia). It has often
been a bland affair with a nondescript vegetable curry served on the
side to distract you from the biryani itself. The version here is
spectacular. It’s rather reminiscent of the Cow Pie which was the
repast of choice of Desperate Dan in comic books. That confection
displayed horns and hoofs protruding from piecrust.
My
biryani
arrived
with
a
flourish
and
was
a
sizable
bowl of
spiced
rice with the business end of a lamb shank sticking like a
flag
pole
from
the
centre.
The
pastry replicated the
sealed pot in which the rice would traditionally have been cooked (a
little terracotta casserole sealed with dough). The waiter deftly cut
away the crust to reveal meat that did truly fall from the bone with
only the encouragement of the vibration from the passing traffic. The
rice was both spicy and perfumed and one could indeed imagine Maharajas
eating this as the peacock-feather fans wafted. This was the best
biryani I have tasted in ages and enough in one serving to satisfy at
least one hungry rugby player.
My guest ordered Tandoori Rubiyan Duck. This nods to the cuisine of
Rajasthan
and
in
particular
Rajput
dishes
which
take
advantage of game
birds. The succulent slices of duck were served with a tiger
prawn,
making
this
a
luxurious
plateful,
but
very
reasonably
priced,
as
are
all
the
items
on
the
menu.
Once
again
a
substantial
portion.
Dessert consisted of a Coconut Ice-Cream which was a light and
refreshing end to the meal and was accompanied by tandoori pineapple –
a winning combination. My only complaint, and it is a small one, is
that my Mango Crème Brulée, whilst being expertly
bruléd, was not set. Delicious, yes certainly, but it was rather
too liquid. For me, this little lapse in an otherwise superb meal can
happily be overlooked.
London Asian restaurant review: Namaasté
Kitchen
64 Parkway, Camden,
London NW1 7AH
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Asian cookbook review: Curry Easy –
Madhur Jaffrey
Too many years ago, Madhur Jaffrey graced our screens. For
anyone with a litre or more of Indian genetic material
it was a revelation. Yes, there had always been Indians on TV: Arapaho,
Mohawk, Apache. Some of us thought we might have a bit of Sioux
coursing through our veins as that is what the media presented as
‘Indian’. Always the bad guys and always getting creamed by the
cavalry. Although in truth film did introduce a bit of balance, in the
guise of the very Welsh Richard Burton playing an Indian doctor in The
Rains of Ranchipur – but it only added to the cultural confusion. Yes,
Madhur Jaffrey was one of the first high-profile Asian Indians on
British television.
Madhur Jaffrey was a real Indian, and with a prime-time show. She
appeared with a waft of silken sari elegance. This actress used her
front-of-camera professionalism to charm her new-found audience with
their first taste of Indian cooking. The Great British Public were
hooked. Madhur's book, which was the show companion, was the first
Indian cookbook that the majority of us had seen.
Curry Easy exudes the same accessible style that one had come to expect
from the Grande Dame of all things Sub-continentally culinary. It’s
been a while since she has published in the UK, and this is a volume
that will introduce a new generation of food lovers to simple
home-style Indian cooking. Madhur admits that this cookbook has in mind
those who are strapped for time. She offers short-cuts and handy hints
that are welcome and practical. Her tip on microwaving papadoms will
encourage a peak in supermarket sales of those crispy delights.
This is a book for those who want to eat authentic food in a timely
fashion. Yes, still authentic because this is indeed the way that
Indian women cook. Visit any Asian home in the UK and you will likely
find a can or two of chickpeas rather than the dry packs. Yes, real
Indians do buy ready-mixed garam masala in bags, and peas can be found
in every freezer. The ingredients for these recipes are not lengthy and
although this isn’t your typical fast food it is good food in a hurry.
The slower-cooked dishes will allow you time to relax while tantalising
aromas fill your flat, or permeate your penthouse.
Baked Chicken Curry is a dish that is economic enough to become a
weekday family favourite, but it’s also ideal for entertaining. Most of
the work can be done the day before, or in the morning for an evening
meal – marinate and bake. As with all of these recipes it takes
advantage of common Indian spices that you will undoubtedly already
have at the back of your larder.
Aubergine with Tomatoes is one of my picks of the book. It’s
reminiscent of a recipe from one of Madhur’s original books for a
vegetable preparation, from Hyderabad I think. This is a less oily
version but is equally full-on in the flavour department, and it does
double duty as both a hot dish and a salad. This could be a striking
summer side dish for grilled meats or fish.
South Indian Potato Curry is comfort food at its finest, another
cost-effective dish that is elevated with a flourish of coconut milk to
finish. That adds a richness and a hint of exotica. The spicing is
restrained and all that’s needed is some traditional bread to scoop up
the sauce. Cooked in less than half an hour, so you’ll be eating before
the regular take-out moped would have arrived. Most folks have a bag of
spuds lurking in the store cupboard, so it’s the dish to cook when you
don’t know what to cook and you “haven’t got anything in”.
Curry Easy is full of simple recipes but one does not have the
impression that these have been dumbed down for the benefit of inept
Europeans. I know of a couple of Indians who have enthused over this
book so I feel no shame in admitting that I found it an absorbing read
– a book that you will quickly put to good use. Congratulations again,
Ms. Jaffrey.
Asian cookbook review: Curry Easy
Author: Madhur Jaffrey
Published by: Ebury Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-09-192314-3
Asian
cookbook review:
The
Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook – Recipes from Hunan Province
The title of Fuchsia Dunlop’s Chinese cookbook is
intriguing. It might not immediately sound appealing. Is this food for
revolutionaries? Perhaps dishes to be welcomed by malcontent student
activists and probably served from huge vats dotted around government
buildings. It is in fact a tome that could just as reasonably be
entitled the Evolutionary Chinese cookbook as it does indeed chart the
history of the culinary heritage of Hunan Province, incidentally the
home region of Chairman Mao.
Fuchsia Dunlop is European but one suspects that her heart is pure
Chinese. She trained as a chef in China at the Sichuan Institute of
Higher Cuisine in Chengdu where she lived for several years. She is a
fluent Mandarin speaker and is considered one of the UK’s foremost
authorities on Chinese food in all its delicious and diverse guises.
The foreword is penned by none other than Ken Hom, such is the regard
in which this lady is held.
Hunan dishes are prized for their chilli-laden robustness but with the
addition of steamed delicate delights, and tangy fermented black bean
preparations that are truly moreish. This is a cuisine that will turn
the head of any of us who have found the regular Cantonese high-street
‘favourites’ to be somewhat lack-lustre and contrived. I for one could
envisage myself craving Hunan food in the same way as I would the
striking dishes of northern India or Sri Lanka.
There are temptations on every page and these have a gratifyingly short
list of ingredients, all of which will be available in your
supermarket, local Asian grocers or online. A store of half a dozen or
so packs or bottles will supply you with the fixin’s for all these
recipes. You will likely already have a wok, and the traditional wok
scoop, guo chan, will help you to sway like a Chinese chef and even
sound like one. No, you won’t be speaking like a native resident of
Hunan after a moment of stirring, but the distinctive metallic scrape
of gau chan on wok is unique.
Spicy Steamed Pork Buns – duo jiao xiao bau – are simple to make and
are traditional snacks from a teahouse dating back to 1875. The Duyan
survived the worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution, only to be
demolished in the early 2000s. Culinary memories still linger and these
buns must surely be part of the reason for the success of the original
restaurant. The recipe makes 20 dumplings which will disappear in
moments.
Chairman Mao is said to have loved a particular pork dish and now it
bears his name. Mao shi hong shao pou is Red Braised Pork with the
ubiquitous chillies as well as aromatic cassia bark and liquorishy star
anise. Beef with Cumin – zi ran niu rou – takes advantage of a spice
that most of us associate more readily with Indian dishes. This
particular recipe comes from Guchengge restaurant in Chengsha. Cumin
gives a distinct flavour, turning this into real comfort food.
Vegetarians are well catered for. One of the simplest yet most vibrant
preparations here is Stir-fried Peppers with Black Beans and Garlic –
duo chi chu la jiao. It lacks the typical chillies but relies instead
on salty fermented black beans for savour.
The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook is a triumph. It’s a marvellous
recipe book without doubt. It introduces the reader to a lesser-known
style of Chinese food – glossy sauces with rich and memorable flavours.
It is also a culinary travelogue and regional history, a book to cook
from and to snuggle down with on long winter nights. I assure you,
you’ll want to do both. Outstanding.
The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook – Recipes from Hunan Province
Author: Fuchsia Dunlop
Published by: Ebury Press
Price: £27.50
ISBN 0 091 90483 8
Asian cookbook
review: Café Spice
Namasté: Cookbook
There is an Indian restaurant just a stone’s throw from
Tower Bridge. A red brick building, imposing steps to self-important
doors, stained glass, high ceilings and striking decor. That’s
Café Spice Namasté – an emporium of fine Indian food with
a menu that reflects the chef’s Parsee roots.
Chef Cyrus Todiwala has talent, a celebrated restaurant, an OBE, and
Pervin, his wife and partner, as his unique assets. This eponymous
restaurant cookbook encapsulates the culinary heritage and love of
quality ingredients for which Cyrus is famed. He is an unapologetic
supporter of British produce and makes use of it at every opportunity
at Café Spice Namasté.
But you won’t be buying this book because it was penned by one of the
Indian restaurant industry’s good guys. You will likely be looking for
a book to cook from. This volume offers Indian recipes that are chosen
to appeal to the European home cook but which are still authentic – a
selection of recipes that will offer something new, even for those of
us with considerable Indian cookbook collections.
Café Spice Namasté Cookbook has the feel of a family
recipe book. Lots of anecdotes and family lore laced with Cyrus’ humour
and easy charm. The food here is simple to prepare and delicious. There
are dishes to impress the in-laws and even more that could become your
own regular weekday fare. This is real honest cooking: dishes for
lovers of good food rather than just “foodies”.
It’s hard to find only a few dishes to mention in a review. I could,
and probably will, graze on all of them and there are over 100 to
choose from. I could start with Onion Bhajia. Not the ubiquitous tennis
ball (or should that be cricket ball?) of a heavy and stodgy mass that
we are so often presented with on high-street snack counters. These
traditional fried delights are much more delicate and addictive.
Talking of street food... Frankie is here. Sounds like the name of a
Bollywood hero, the sort with pearly teeth and mesmerising chest. This
Frankie is a stuffed and egg-enrobed chapatti which was once the fast
food of choice in Mumbai, till the American chains turned heads. A wrap
that will be a favourite with all members of the family.
Seafood aficionados are well-served by this book. Cyrus cheffed in Goa
and so has showcased some of those regional fish dishes here, including
the popular Goan Fish Curry. This can be made even with the humble (and
in my opinion too-often overlooked) coley. An economic yet stunning
fish main course that would delight even your poshest guests. It’s the
coconut that I find so tempting. This can be eaten cold, so it’s
perfect for making ahead when entertaining on our long hot (use your
imagination) summer nights.
You will equally be drawn to this book if you feel your dinner is not
complete without a robust helping of meat. There are plenty of red meat
and chicken dishes as well as recipes for game and exotic protein such
as ostrich, which is becoming more popular. Crocodile also puts in an
appearance and is said to be eaten in central India.
Café Spice Namasté Cookbook is not “surprisingly” good.
Good is exactly what I expected from this well-respected man. Yes, he
is a chef at the top of his game, but he has a natural style and
remains dedicated to enticing ordinary folk into the kitchen. His
recipes are thoughtful and simple to prepare. Truly dishes that you
will return to, time and time again. This book was published in 1998
but it’s worth looking for copies, or contact Café Spice Namasté
directly here. Also consider the soft-cover ‘Indian Summer’, which
contains similar recipes as well as menu ideas for meals to impress.
Café Spice Namasté has an enviable and deserved
reputation and should be a destination restaurant for those who have a
passion for the best of food, and Sub-continental dishes in particular.
It’s been open for 15 years and has a host of regulars who are known by
name and welcomed as friends. I’ll be visiting often and staying long.
Café Spice Namasté:
16 Prescot Street, London E1 8AZ
Asian cookbook
review: Vegetarian Cooking
of India
Mridula Baljekar presents us with another superb
example of her skill as a food writer. Vegetarian Cooking of India is
the
latest in a string of books which exemplify the reasons why she is held
in such
high regard by home cooks, those with a passion for Indian food, and
collectors
of beautiful recipe books.
Vegetarian Cooking of India is a
large format volume
from Aquamarine. This publisher offers some of the most thoughtful and
practical cookbooks around. They have found a path that strikes a
balance
between a food manual and a food annual. Mridula puts recipes in
cultural and
geographic context and there is a very appealing element of food
travelogue.
This is not only a vegetarian cookbook but also a culinary reflection
of regional
diversity.
One can always expect something
striking from
Mridula, and this latest work will not disappoint those who have
enjoyed her previous
recipe collections. She does not assume that her reader has any
particular
kitchen prowess. She starts with an overview of ingredients, equipment
and
techniques. Each recipe includes a few words to give confidence to the
novice
and to inspire the more practised.
There are 80 classic recipes here,
but classic does
not mean that they are facsimiles of those already contained within the
covers
of your other favourite Indian cookbooks. The dishes here are authentic
and
there is something for every taste: Sweet Pineapple Salad flecked with
black mustard
seeds from South India to Potatoes in Chilli-Tamarind Sauce from West
India.
Vegetarian Cooking of India
represents the style of
food that is eaten in homes all over the Subcontinent and indeed in
expatriate
homes worldwide. The dishes are lighter and fresher-tasting than those
you find
in all but the best Indian restaurants. The recipes here contain more
aromatic
spices than searingly hot ones. It’s about flavour rather than fire.
Channa Madra – chickpeas in a
spice-laced yogurt
sauce – is North Indian. This is a substantial dish which will be
appreciated
even by those who would normally crave meat at every meal. The use of
lentils
and beans in these recipes might persuade many carnivores down the
semi-vegetarian
route.
Sanar Kofta – cheese balls
from North East
India – are made with Paneer which can be found in most large
supermarkets. It’s
a mild cheese which absorbs flavours and is used extensively in Indian
kitchens. These balls are covered in a piquant sauce and served with
rice for a
main meal. I would think that they could equally work as a vegetarian
and more
tempting version of the ubiquitous cocktail sausage, which was
passé by the end
of the 60s yet endures in some quarters.
Dimer Dalna – egg, potato and green
pea curry from
East India – is economic and a must-try dish. It is delicately infused
with
cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Mridula serves this with Indian bread
for which
she includes several recipes. Comfort food at its warming finest.
Good Indian desserts are more often
found in Indian
homes than Indian restaurants. Mridula has some tempting traditional
suggestions, and Shrikand – saffron-scented strained yogurt – is one of
my
favourites. It has to be made at least 2 hours in advance so it’s ideal
for the
end of an exotic meal or to finish a light summer lunch.
It’s no surprise to find a chutney
recipe in a
Mridula Baljekar cookbook: she produces her own brand of seasonal
chutneys that
are delightfully flavourful and different. If you can’t find her jars
in your
supermarket then you can at least enjoy her Tomato Achar – roasted
tomato
chutney – made by your own fair hands.
Vegetarian
Cooking
of India is a book that will encourage you into the kitchen. The
recipes are simple to execute but are exciting enough to be appreciated
by
those who already have lots of Indian dishes in their repertoire.
Nothing to
drive a debutant into panic but plenty to inspire.
Asian Cookbook review: Vegetarian
Cooking of India
Author: Mridula Baljekar
Published by: Aquamarine
Price: £17.99
London Asian
restaurant review: Royal China – Baker
Street
Baker Street is in the Marylebone area of Westminster in
London. It is most famous for being the home of Victorian detective
Sherlock Holmes, who lived at 221B Baker Street. The apartment, like
the man himself, did not exist but these days the address has been
created to house the Sherlock Holmes Museum. The street is named after
builder William Baker who laid out the street in the eighteenth century.
The Royal China restaurant is part of a small chain. Do not be put off
by that. It’s not the Oriental version of Pizza
Shed
or
MacDougall’s
Burgers.
Think
high-end
food
with
ambiance
to
match
–
thoughtful
touches
of
presentation
which
mark
the
Royal
China
Group
as
something
considerably
more
than
most
neighbourhood
restaurants.
The
internationally
acclaimed
London-based
company
boasts
over
20
restaurants
throughout
the
world.
The Royal China has a menu which offers diners the chance to try dishes
that you are unlikely to find in too many other restaurants of the same
ethnic genre. If you love authentic Chinese food then this will become
your eatery of choice for the foreseeable future. The bill of fare is
extensive and offers something for everyone, be they carnivore or
vegetarian.
The original Bayswater restaurant has been joined by Fulham and Canary
Wharf branches, and now there is the latest Harrow on-the-Hill
restaurant. We visited the Baker Street branch of Royal China, just a
short walk from the eponymous Underground station which is one of the
world’s oldest. It was a winter’s evening and a Tuesday, so one would
not have expected families to be patiently waiting in line for a free
table. The cross-section of humanity included regulars, Europeans,
Asians and tourists of every ethnic hue. Word had obviously got around.
The Royal China is celebrated for dim sum and authentic Cantonese
dishes. We perused the menu while nibbling on seasoned peanuts and
delicious pickled turnip. Then it was on to the appetisers and we were
tempted by Deep Fried Baby Squid with Chilli & Spicy Salt. This is
a triumph of both texture and taste. And an amazingly large portion, as
are all of the dishes here at Royal China.
Spicy Smoked Shredded Chicken was a revelation and a must-try. The meat
had an evident taste of smoke. This is moreish – simple and memorable.
I would love to know the secret of this preparation.
We were spoiled for choice for main courses. Fish is here in abundance
and we chose Deep Fried Fillet of Dover Sole with Sweet & Sour
Sauce. This dish is far superior to the nuggets of over-battered and
doughy pork or chicken of which I have often been the victim at
inferior restaurants. The coating on the fish was light and crisp. The
white flesh was moist, creamy and sweet. The sauce, although still the
vibrant orange colour as usual, was mild and with a less overpowering
tang of vinegar.
Sautéed Chicken with Chilli & Black Bean Sauce is robust and
flavourful with a salty savour from the fermented beans. The chilli was
warming but far from tongue-numbing. An ideal dressing for some plain
rice.
"Shaolin Monks" Vegetables in Clay Pot was the most spectacular of the
dishes. The clay pot was not of the usual unglazed sort but a rather
sophisticated black bowl with matching burner. The vegetable stew
bubbled away merrily. This is a stew that is said to replicate a
chicken and veg casserole, but the meat is replaced by glutinous
morsels. For those who need meat and spice then Stewed Egg Plant
(aubergine) with Minced Pork in Spicy Sauce should be on your list.
Sautéed Pak‐Choy with Garlic was delicious and aromatic. The
vegetables were a little difficult to eat with chopsticks but worth the
effort. Those black-lacquered chopsticks are decorated with gold to
coordinate with the walls which are resplendent with the gleaming metal
leaf. The Singaporean Rice Vermicelli was a spicy accompaniment. These
thin noodles were yellow with turmeric and studded with prawns. Another
substantial plateful.
This is the first Royal China that I have visited but I hope it will
not be my last. The lunch menu offers the ever-popular dim sum (small
dishes that are traditionally served for breakfast and lunch), of which
there are more than 30 varieties, and there are even a few desserts as
well.
There is a host of other dishes that I have a mind to try. The menu is
extensive and full of intriguing possibilities. The staff were
welcoming and efficient and made the Royal China experience a positive
one. They are happy to give advice, and that might be welcome with so
many unfamiliar options. This company has a branch in China so one can
assume that these dishes are well-received by those in the know. One of
my top ten Chinese restaurants.
Opening Hours:
Monday to Thursday: Noon - 11:00pm
Friday and Saturday: Noon - 11:30pm
Sunday: 11:00am - 10:00pm
London Asian restaurant review: Royal
China
-
Baker
Street
24-26 Baker Street, London, W1U 7AB
Tel: 020 7487 4688
Visit Royal China here
Harrow Tel: 020 8863 8359
148‐150 Station Road, HA1 2RH.
Asian cookbook review:
The Just Bento Cookbook
– Everyday Lunches to Go
It’s a bento cookbook. But I know for a fact that not
everyone in Europe will know exactly what bento is. Most people would
have heard the word and will remember that it has something or other to
do with Japanese food. Bento isn’t an ingredient, it does not have to
be Japanese, and it isn’t necessarily even exotic. Bento is a lunch box.
Japan is famed for its refined culture. That artistry extends to food
and we all know about intricately displayed fish for sashimi, and
tightly-rolled and bejewelled sushi, but let’s consider the Japanese
equivalent of a curly sandwich. Yes, you are quite right. It doesn’t
exist.
Railway stations in Japan offer their customers bento boxes. There are
small shops that offer these foods; and mothers and wives send their
loved ones from the house with food that will still be tasty after a
few hours. Bento is pre-packed lunch, but not often of the
cheese-and-pickle and white-sliced variety.
The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go will fire the
imagination of those responsible for making the food for meal breaks.
Kids will be excited by the contents of their plastic boxes and are far
less likely to swap for a packet of jelly beans. The suggestions here
offer vibrant flavours and different textures as well as dietary
balance.
If we lived in Japan we would have a wide selection of bento boxes to
choose from. Two layers and interlocking, single layer with movable
dividers, large bento box with individual lidded containers within. The
rest of the world, apart from India with its unique tiffin boxes, has a
plastic box with a snap-on lid. You will be delighted to know that the
regular sandwich box or even an ex-almost-butter box will do. No need
to go on a shopping spree to Osaka.
For the moment banish from your mind the thought of sarnies. Consider
rice, either fluffy or compressed. How’s about some cool and flavourful
noodles, some fresh veggies with a light dressing and some cooked meat
with a soy sauce lacquer. Sounds enticing doesn’t it?
An inspiring and rich bento meal listed here is that for Ginger Pork
Bento. It’s a hearty meal that would work just as well for supper and
served on a plate as it does for noon from a box. The tangy meat is
paired with braised new potatoes and there are stir-fried peppers and
bean sprouts, cauliflower in mayo, and rice to make this a complete
meal. An adult bento if ever there was one.
The most child-friendly compilation here is perhaps the Pan-fried
Chicken Nugget Bento. It includes a potato salad and a selection of raw
vegetables with a citrus-herb sauce. A healthy meal but fun to eat. An
alternative might be the Pork and Shrimp Balls with Onigiri. These are
balls of compressed rice and much more practical for little lunchers
than negotiating separate grains of rice with chop sticks. No need for
cutlery at all.
My favourite recipe from The Just Bento Cookbook is for the
Sukiyaki-style Beef Donburi Bento. This is another substantial boxful
of meat over rice with a garnish of vegetables. The meat has a sweet
yet savoury flavour that is most agreeable even when cold. This version
uses snow peas (mange-tout) and daikon, but one could substitute other
vegetables which might be more readily available.
The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go is a colourful and
attractive volume that will be a boon to anyone who eats a packed lunch
every day. These recipes are simple but will offer something a bit more
enticing than the usual sandwich and bag of crisps. There is a bento
here for every taste. A book full of practical ideas.
Asian cookbook review: The Just Bento Cookbook – Everyday Lunches to Go
Author: Makiko Itoh
Published by: Kodansha Europe
Price: £13.99
ISBN 9784770031242
Asian cookbook review: Kebabs
and Tikkis
I can
understand why Tarla Dalal is such a very
popular writer in India. She sells more books than any other author of
any genre.
Her recipes are loved for their ease of preparation, they are trusted
because
they work and adored because they present some of the most delicious
food that
will ever emanate from a domestic kitchen. My only surprise is that she
is not
better known outside her homeland.
One might fear that an Indian cookbook written by
an Indian lady in India for an Indian audience might not have recipes
that
would be readily accessible to us in the West. Put those worries to one
side.
Everything is available to us in our local Asian supermarket or via the
internet. If you are not sure what exactly might be that
unfamiliar-sounding ingredient
then make a note of it and trot along to your local store and ask the
owner or
his wife what that exotic spice might be. You will be sure of lots of
advice.
Kebabs and Tikkis concerns itself with those
delicious morsels which are ideal party finger-foods or might even make
a main
meal in greater quantity - perhaps with a side dish. These are
vegetarian
recipes but vibrant of flavour and of sufficiently robust texture to
convince
even meat-eaters of the wisdom of the vegetarian path.
One type of kebab can be grouped with others to
create interesting platters of balanced and contrasting flavours. The
author
thoughtfully offers suggestions for these combinations to assure best
results.
There is a tantalising Nawabi Platter, and for those who are watching
their
diet there is a Low Cal Kebab Platter, as well as several other themed
plates.
Paneer is readily available in most supermarkets
and is used to great advantage in these recipes. Tandoori Paneer Tikki
will be
popular and you won’t need a tandoor to achieve great and tasty
results. Serve
any of the tikki or kebabs with homemade naan. Mrs. Dalal has a novel
solution
to the lack of a tandoor: she suggests using an upturned pressure
cooker. Those
of us who are lucky enough to have a grill in the kitchen can make use
of that
instead.
A simple and delicious tikki is Aloo Methi ki
Tikki. The hint of aromatic fenugreek is the key to this memorable
morsel.
Anything coated in breadcrumbs and fried has my vote ...but it must
taste good
as well as having that tempting texture, and this definitely does.
Rajma
Galouti Kebab is also a superb vegetarian interpretation of a classic
meat-based kebab.
Kebabs and Tikkis is another recipe book that will
entice the Western reader just as much as the Indian home cook. It’s a
volume
showcasing delicious food made from recipes that do work. Tarla Dalal
writes
the most popular cookbooks in India, for a mainly Indian audience.
Those discerning
cookbook buyers know more about this cuisine than I, and they buy this
author’s
books by the million. I am guided by them
Asian cookbook review: Kebabs and Tikkis
Author: Tarla Dalal
Published by: Sanjay and Company
ISBN 978-81-89491-77-2
Dal and Kadhi
Sanjeev Kapoor is the Indian chef with the golden touch.
His acclaimed TV series, Khana Khazana, has
enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best
Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is
the popularity of this man.
Dal and Kadhi presents regional comfort food at its best and the book
is as delightful as the food. Each recipe is accompanied by a
photograph by Bharat Bhirangi who has a talent for showing these dishes
in a mouth-watering fashion. You’ll be planning your next meal before
you leave the bookshop.
What could be better than a flavourful dal or kadhi to eat with rice or
roti? Your meal might be humble or you could add a dal to an array of
other dishes to make a sumptuous and satisfying spread. They range in
texture from the rich and substantial to the light and refreshing to
suit the season or the occasion. These are the dishes that people miss
when they leave home and crave when they are in far-off countries.
This book offers 45 recipes that you will want to add to your culinary
repertoire no matter what your home region. They are a broad-based
selection of recipes so there is sure to be something to please every
palate. Dal Makhni is perhaps the most celebrated both in India and
overseas where it has become a restaurant speciality, although seldom
cooked in an authentic style. Maharashtrian Kadhi is a traditional dish
and represents India’s culinary diversity in a most delicious way.
All these dals and kadhis are tempting but as with life in general
there are firsts among equals and I have picked a few that are
particularly tempting. Rajasthani Baati ki Dal is made with split green
gram (dhuli moong dal) and Bengal gram (chana dal) and the resulting
dal is served with traditional baked balls of dough.
Bhindi ni Kadhi is bound to be on my list as I love ladies’ fingers
(bhinda/ bhindi). This is a soupy combination of yogurt and gram flour
(besan) flavoured with spices. The vegetables remain a little crisp
giving the kadhi an interesting texture.
Dal Hari Bhari contains spinach and fenugreek leaves, onions and
spices, and Sanjeev uses it to tempt those who would not normally enjoy
green vegetables. This would be an easy meal when served just with rice.
Dal and Kadhi is an Aladdin’s cave of ideas for quick, tasty and
healthy dishes. One expects lovely books from Sanjeev Kapoor and this
is another in that collection that never disappoints. You don’t have to
spend a lot of money to enjoy good food. This book will show you the
way in fine flavourful fashion.
Asian cookbook review: Dal and Kadhi
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-415-1
The Blue Elephant
Cookbook
This must surely be the most celebrated of Thai restaurant
empires. It would be diminishing the class and
the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from
the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and
thoroughly impressive.
The Blue Elephant has a fine reputation wherever you might find it. and
the cookbook now allows its followers to replicate its dishes in their
home kitchens. Those who have never had the pleasure of visiting a Blue
Elephant will soon appreciate the attraction.
Thai food in general has gained worldwide popularity over the past
decade. More of us have the opportunity to travel to Thailand and also
to visit Thai restaurants in our home countries, and we want to try
those dishes for ourselves. The Blue Elephant Cookbook will offer you a
marvelous array of recipes that represent the very essence of Thai food
with all its vibrant flavours.
Blue Elephant recipes are authentic, attractive and tempting. They are
not over-taxing for the competent home cook, and the ingredients are
all availiable either from your favourite supermarket’s Asian food
aisle, from a specialist Thai food store or by mail order via the
internet. You’ll not only learn how to make soups, starters, salads,
main dishes and desserts but also curry pastes and sauces.
Thai Fish Cakes will be instantly recognised by travellers returning
from sun-kissed Thai resorts. They are delicately soft with a crunch
supplied by a garnish of peanuts and refreshing lettuce. Serve this
with Cucumber Sauce (recipe in this book) and you have a delicious
snack or light lunch, or combine with other dishes as part of a Thai
buffet.
Stir-Fried Seafood with Garlic and Peppercorns (Seafood Krathiam Prik
Thai) is elegant and flavourful and would be an ideal “special” meal.
OK, the prawns, scallops and crab are not cheap but this recipe makes
the best of that seafood, and the finished result is stunning. The base
is Blue Elephant Special Sauce which you can easily make and freeze for
future use.
Tuk’s Duck Salad (Laab Ped) is a dish devised by the aforementioned Tuk
who is a chef at the Blue Elephant in London. The duck is grilled and
flavoured with a spice paste and garnished with fried shallots,
chillies, fresh coriander and salad. A simple dish to prepare but it
has great impact.
The Blue Elephant Cookbook is a jewel of a volume and definitely among
my favourite Thai cookbooks. It will be snapped up by lovers of classic
Thai food as well as those who are regular diners at The Blue Elephant
restaurants. A lovely book.
Asian cookbook Review: The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Author: Chefs of Blue Elephant.
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-303-8
Royal Hyderabadi
Cooking
This is a collaboration between two of India’s finest sons
of the culinary arts. If you have not heard of Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev
is
probably
the
most
celebrated
of
Indian
chefs,
presenting
Khana
Khazana
on
India’s
Zee
TV)
then
you must have been living under a rock with no access either to
cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous
review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi
cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.
But what is Hyderabadi cooking? It will be a mystery to most
Westerners, who are very unlikely to have encountered it, and it is
revered by Indians, who might also have trouble tracking down authentic
dishes. It’s truly courtly, special and grand but at least this volume
makes those dishes more accessible to the home cook... and what home
cooking that would be!
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is an elegantly presented volume with stylish
photography by Bharat Bhirangi illustrating every recipe. The book has
a modern feel with the food being the rich focus in a minimalist
setting. Although the ingredients look a lengthy list for some dishes,
it’s mostly spices that are commonly found in the domestic larder.
Apart from being a striking cookbook, Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is also
something of an archive for a style of food preparation that is
disappearing. The authors have been lucky enough to recruit the
indispensible aid of two national culinary treasures who have lifetimes
of expertise. Begum Mumtaz Khan is considered a living legend and is a
member of the Jagirdhar families of the last Nizam, and has actually
tasted the food from the Royal kitchens. She has conducted cooking
classes and hosted Hyderabadi food festivals.
Ustad Habib Pasha has a passion for Hyderabadi food and a wealth of
experience. He has worked in Hyderabad’s most famous restaurants and
has been generous to our authors with his knowledge, revealing the
secrets of aromatic blends of herbs that help to give this cuisine its
distinctive flavour.
There are so many striking recipes to discover here but I have a few
favourites. Murtabuk is a layered stack of chapattis with a filling of
minced chicken, eggs and spices and is served in wedges as you would a
savoury birthday cake. It was Begum Mumtaz Khan who taught the authors
how to cook this to perfection.
Thikri Ki Dal is a delicious and comforting dal which contains amongst
the spices, onions and ghee... 2 three-inch pieces of earthenware! The
thikri are heated till red hot and then plunged into the food. They are
removed before serving to avoid damage to either guest or crockery.
This method is said to impart a distinctive and earthy flavour. Truly
unique.
Double Ka Meetha is a sweet and syrupy dessert that would be a fitting
end to a Royal Hyderabadi meal. It’s a confection of bread, nuts, cream
and saffron and simple to make. I wouldn’t reserve this for just
Hyderabadi meals, this would be welcomed anytime by those with a sweet
tooth.
The title suggests something sumptuous and rich and that is just what
this food is all about. Royal Hyderabadi Cooking presents recipes that
are regal and festive but accessible to the home cook. Amazing!
Asian cookbook review: Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor and Harpal Singh Sokhi
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4
Low Calorie
Vegetarian Cookbook
You should expect something special when you are presented
with a Sanjeev Kapoor cookbook. Low Calorie
Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an
exotic diet trend.
Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting
Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV. It’s been airing since 1993 and its
600th episode is now just a memory. He has won several awards such as
the Best Executive Chef of India Award and the Mercury Gold Award at
Geneva, which has earned this man international as well as home-grown
respect.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is just one of many cookbooks from this
charming, handsome and charismatic man. Each book is welcomed by an
adoring audience who have been impressed by the author’s skill on the
small screen. It’s said that Sanjeev never repeats a recipe and will
not need to for several decades; such is his volume of work.
Low calorie carnivorous and low calorie vegetarian recipes have often
seemed to fall into one of two categories: boring or boring with
vegetables. But Sanjeev’s book will strike the right chord with many
readers who want a low calorie diet that offers food with taste and
texture. If you don’t enjoy the food that does you good then you will
fall back into the same old unhealthy eating habits which got you into
your chubby mess to start with.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is about flavour, and Sanjeev has a
collection of recipes that will tempt even those with no health or
weight issues. This is good food with intriguing combinations of spices
and fresh ingredients. There are Nutrition Information charts with each
recipe to enable the home cook to make the best choices to achieve a
balanced diet.
The recipes are broad-based and you don’t have to be a lover of
traditional Indian food to appreciate the dishes. Sanjeev has French
onion soup but his version raises the bar with French Onion and Garlic
Soup. Spicy Pineapple Boat is light and refreshing but with a little
kick from green chillies. For those who want a cool and summery salad
then Minted Mushrooms should fit the bill. This is a dish of mushrooms,
tomato, cucumber, mint leaves and a dressing of low fat yogurt, and the
addition of lemon juice provides a tang.
However delicious the European-inspired dishes might be, most of us
will be looking for that unmistakable taste of the subcontinent and
it’s here in glorious profusion. Spinach and Cabbage Parantha is a
flatbread with aromatic cardamom and spicy red chilli powder to
complement the vegetables incorporated into the dough.
Desserts are not forgotten. Kesari Phirni is a lovely dessert of
Pistachio nuts perfumed with saffron and cardamom. The sweetness comes
from a sugar substitute such as Equal or Splenda so you can indulge
with no guilt.
Do I have a favourite recipe? Well, you know I do and its Mushroom Dum
Biryani. This is a rice dish made with the traditional method but have
no fear, it’s not difficult and the results will impress both Western
and Asian friends. I’ll make this dish often, not because I have a low
calorie diet (although perhaps I should) but because it’s delicious and
simple.
A Western cook will have no problem finding the spices in local
supermarkets or from one of the many online Asian stores. The cooking
techniques are not taxing and you don’t have to take a trip to Mumbai
to kit out your new Asian kitchen. This is a fascinating book with
recipes that will encourage you to make, eat and enjoy flavourful and
healthful meals.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is the first of Sanjeev Kapoor's books
that I have had the pleasure to review, and there are more to follow.
This volume is bound to be a success with readers from every continent.
Asian cookbook review: Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00, £11.69, $25.00US
ISBN 978-81-7154-888-0
The Asian Grill
Yes, it’s a BBQ book but one with a difference. This will
capture the imagination of those who long for
something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding,
burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal
adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The
charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of
marinades and condiments.
Corinne Trang is an international chef and food authority. Her heritage
is Asian and European, and she is one of the few who are truly at home
with both genres; but more importantly she loves food. Might sound a
strange and rather obvious statement but there are many chefs and
food-industry gurus who are just doing a job, but Corinne is a chef, a
food professional, and a foodie with all the passionate enthusiasm that
word implies.
I am not a lover of Fusion food as it is so often a compromise. Some
chefs have built reputations on marrying ingredients which should never
even have been introduced. Corinne’s food is easily described as good
food with Asian flavour. There is nothing here that will bring the cry
of horror, nothing that jars, but plenty that looks good on paper and
even better on a plate.
The Asian Grill will gently lead you away (you can return from time to
time) from ketchup, mustard and liquid smoke and will playfully nudge
you in the direction of soy sauce, sesame oil and mirin. All the
ingredients are available in a supermarket near you or via mail order.
The cooking techniques don’t require a training course and you probably
already have the equipment, so you are ready to dazzle.
Back-yard grilling isn’t famed for having a sophisticated meal as its
end-product. It’s more often burgers like hockey pucks and flavourless
chicken. It’s rarely the food that is the centre of attention but
rather the grilling process that encourages conviviality. We marvel at
the “skill” of (mostly) men who only don an apron when the smell of
lighter fuel is in the air. Grilling is simple and was the first
cooking method. Cavemen didn’t say “I’ll rustle up a nice
soufflé for lunch” or “How about a delicately toasted English
muffin with passion-fruit jelly?” No, dear reader, it would likely be
“Pass me the pinny, Unk, I’m grilling tonight.”
Corinne has a flair for flavour, not only for the dishes that are
grilled, but for all the associated breads, rices, noodles, and even
sweets and drinks. There is everything you will need in this one
vibrant and attractive volume. You will be able to compose meals around
the grill that will be elegant but still fun both to cook and to eat.
I love lamb and The Asian Grill has a recipe that is a joy. Lamb
Marinated in Yellow Spice Paste is flavoured with a pungent mix which
elevates these kebabs into something mouthwatering. Corinne suggests
serving these with Scallion Flat Bread from this same book. Pork
Patties could be an alternative filling for that bread, and this recipe
has a distinct Vietnamese flavour with fish sauce and lemon grass. BBQ
Pork is Corinne’s version of the Cantonese classic, Char Siu, often
seen hanging in windows in Chinatowns the world over. This will always
be a crowd-pleaser.
Perhaps my favourite recipe is that for Spicy Sweet Soy Sauce Marinated
Chicken. It couldn’t be easier to prepare but the resulting bird is a
long way from the usual lack-lustre poultry of by-gone BBQs ...or I
might choose Spicy Squid Salad ...but Asian Clambake is impressive
...although...
The Asian Grill is a book stuffed with tempting and flavourful food.
You don’t need to know anything about cooking Asian food, and even a
novice griller should be confident of a lot of compliments; everything
you need to know is here. Corinne Trang has once again produced a book
that will soon be stained through much use, and that’s a fine accolade
for any cookbook.
Asian cookbook review: The Asian Grill
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US
ISBN: 978-0-8118-4631-8
Noodles Every Day
To the untutored this might seem an uninspiring
proposition, but it’s perfectly possible to eat noodles every day and
perhaps even several times a day without feeling as though it’s an
endurance test.
Corinne Trang is a US based author, radio and TV broadcaster on the
subject of Asian food. She is a well respected authority on foods from
China and Southeast Asia and has been described as the “Julia Child of
Asian Cuisine” by the Washington Post and me. Corinne has penned
numerous books and has won a raft of awards - her very first won Best
Asian Cuisine Book in the World at the World Cookbook Fair. Not too
shabby!
Corinne has a passion for food and not just Asian food (a casual
conversation with this lady about anything from bread to breakfast will
have you drooling). Her background, a combination of French and
Chinese, equips her very well to take her place in the culinary arena
of both East and West.
Noodles Every Day is an attractive volume with marvellous photographs
by Maura McEvoy. It’s more than a cookbook – this is an encyclopaedia
of all things noodley. Every possible variety of noodle is considered
and a wealth of recipes is offered. This is the original fast food and
it’s both healthy and sustaining which is more than can be said for
most of the popular western alternatives.
Every noodle type has its recipes but you can mix and match to suit
your own taste. The five noodle categories are Wheat, Egg, Buckwheat,
Rice and Cellophane but there is an additional chapter which covers
Buns, Dumplings, and Spring Rolls. Although these are not noodles they
do fall under the “snack” umbrella as do some of the noodle dishes.
Corinne introduces you to stock making and some typical Asian
condiments, as well as basic ingredients. You will have all you need to
be ever ready, with the addition of a few fresh items, for a quick but
impressive meal... and fast!
Wheat Noodles with Spicy Ground Pork is a Szechuan classic. Dishes from
this region are prized for their robust flavours and this one is no
exception although the stir-fried Napa cabbage (Chinese Leaves) adds
sweetness. Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Beef and Broccoli is another
meat and vegetable recipe and a worldwide restaurant favourite but it’s
easy to make at home. It’s flavourful, rich and comforting.
One of the most striking recipes in Noodles Every Day is that for Egg
Noodle Soup with Five-spice Duck. This would make a smart dinner party
dish with its succulent, aromatic meat and the soup served on the side.
For sheer luxury though, Crab-flavoured Noodles with Velvety Crab Sauce
and Green Peas takes some beating. It’s a simple recipe but has a
cheffy quality about it. The crab-flavoured noodles can be found in
larger Chinese food stores but if you can’t get hold of them you can
substitute regular thin egg noodles.
Noodles Every Day is an instructive and inspiring book. It’s
thoughtfully written with the western cook in mind but Corinne Trang is
never pedestrian in her choice of recipes. This isn’t just another
Asian cookbook but rather a vehicle which will help you to appreciate
all the subtle flavours and textures that Asian food has to offer.
Noodles Every Day will surely be another award winner.
Asian cookbook review: Noodles Every Day
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95 US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6143-4
The Sari
This wasn’t, to be honest, what I expected. It has a
bright and evocative picture on the front cover but
this isn’t a book about colourful textiles, it’s about how the sari is
worn and the place it holds in Indian society. It’s a simple length of
cloth but to suggest that is all it is would be rather like saying a
book is just reconstituted tree.
I have always admired women in saris. It’s not just the fabric that
holds one’s attention but rather the form, the drape, the movement of
the material. It’s an ancient dress but one that is by the same token
timeless. It hints at exotic sexuality while simultaneously conveying
an impression of modesty.
The Sari is about the wearers of saris and their relationship to it.
It’s complex and varied but one that has impact. The diverse strands of
feminine Indian society have a common denominator and that is the sari,
with all its myriad styles and significance: it is not just an item of
clothing like, for example, a western tee-shirt - a sari plays a role
in much of Indian social interaction.
The Sari has a collection of personal stories from women who wear or
have worn the sari on a regular basis. For some it’s reserved for smart
evening wear, with western attire being the choice for the majority of
the time. Others are full-time sari wearers who might even wear a sari
to bed to ensure that they are covered from prying eyes at all times.
The sari in many of these cases is used as an expression of religious
and familial conformity.
Indian school girls don’t wear saris and the first time one is worn
heralds the start of adult life. It was interesting to read that Indian
women do, in fact, have sari accidents and anxieties. Yes, there have
been occasions when a sari has become unwound, a careless foot causing
embarrassment. I have tried a sari and I’ll not feel safe in one
without the use of several 4-inch nails and a weightlifter’s belt.
Sari-wearing is an art.
The Sari is a book that has introduced me to an aspect of Indian
society that is seldom discussed. One looks at attractive ladies in
beautiful clothes and one takes the sari at face value, but this
amazing book shows a fascinating aspect of the lives of so many women
of and from the subcontinent. It’s a worthwhile and compelling read and
encourages one to consider the wearer rather than the worn.
Asian book review: The Sari
Authors: Mukulika Banerjee, Daniel Miller
Published by: Berg
Price: £14.98
ISBN 978-1-84788-314-8
Indian Festivals 2012
February 20th Maha Shivaratri March 8th Holi
March 23rd Hindi New Year
March 23rd Telugu New Year/ Ugadi April 1st Ramanavami
April 3rd Baisakhi / Vishu
April 4th Bengali New Year
April 6th Hanuman Jayanti
April 24th Akshaya Tritiya May 5th Vaisakhi
May 21st Savitri Pooja June 21st Puri Rath Yatra July 3rd Guru Purnima
July 24th Nag Panchami August 2nd Raksha-bandhan
August 10th Krishna Janmashtami
August 29th Onam September 19th Ganesh Chaturthi
September 30th Pitr-paksha Begins October 15th Pitr-paksha Ends
October 16th Navaratri Begins
October 21st Durga Puja Begins
October 23rd Navaratri Ends
October 24th Dusshera
October 29th Lakshmi Puja November 3rd Karwa Chauth
chewy
balls made of tapioca starch. That might not sound too appetising but
they add so much to the appeal of the drink. They are the reason for
the iconic large-diameter straws. They have an agreeable chewy texture,
very much like a wine gum. Those little spheres turn this preparation
into a drinkable snack which is really quite sustaining. However, the
"Bubble” element to the name doesn't actually refer to the tapioca
pearls which rest at the bottom of the cup, but to the froth at the top
of the tea which is created when the drink is shaken.
translucent balls suspended in the drink. These were capsules of fruity
flavour that burst in the mouth. Thirst-quenching and
summery.
,
an
event
to promote or a new menu. Seasoning in Fulham was worthy of a
second bite just because, well, it’s Seasoning.
rather
good.
The
bar offers a good selection of spirits and mixed drinks as
well as signature cocktails. A small seating area is
the spot to lounge and relax before making your way to a table.
crave. Old favourites are
here, like Butter Chicken; Chicken Tikka Masala is also featured
–
well,
let’s admit it, it’s the national dish and it’s well loved.
It’s called ‘culinary evolution’, which is also illustrated by some
Chinese-inspired dishes, and these will not seem at all strange to any
Indian who visits Seasoning from the Subcontinent. Chinese food in
India is almost as popular as Indian food in the UK.
but they are unfortunately sometimes of poor quality and seldom made
in-house. Seasoning is proud of its puds and offers
some typical ones that the unsuspecting would usually have received
straight from a catering pack. Here they are made from scratch, so save
some space. Firni is well worth trying, as is the Gulab Jamun which I
can never refuse. The Kulfi is creamy and tangy and comes in several
flavours, and makes a cooling end to a fine meal.
chefs tend to be. He takes notice and cares about his guests. 
as important as the food. I
don’t want to give the impression that the table staff hover too
closely or watch your every move from a distance. The
service is appropriately attentive, with a good number of waiting staff
who are indistinguishable from the chefs. OK, the chef jackets and
taupe aprons are spotless but one has the impression that each dish has
been made and delivered fresh from the open kitchen just for you
...which indeed it has.
ingredients
that
no
Parsee
would
want
to
live
without.
This
is real comfort food,
with ginger and cumin as the main flavourings. The vegetables are topped
a flavour of its own. The lamb was meltingly tender but there were some
small and delicate meatballs in addition. These were peppery and
moreish and alone would have been a delight with just the sauce and
that celebrated onion rice.
flavour
from,
well,
saffron
but
also
cardamom,
to
which
I
am addicted. The
caramelised topping was perfect and was evenly speckled with dark burnt
sugar. A simple and sophisticated dessert.
hotel. Gone are the days when hotel restaurants were mediocre and dull
with a focus on merely fuelling a captive
audience. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen can compete with any Indian restaurant.
Nothing mean, skimpy or banal here. This is an apt showcase for the
talents of the Todiwalas – Mr and Mrs.
mum
who has transmitted her own passion for Japanese cooking and food.
Reiko moved to the UK to study but instead of going into a dry and
boring profession she became an air hostess. She was based in Hong Kong
so had all the culinary exposure that metropolis has to offer.
Travelling also gave Reiko the opportunity to broaden her gastronomic
horizons and she eventually decided on a career in teaching Japanese
cooking.
anime
there
will
be
cartoon
characters.
The
food
lovers
will
doubtless
conjure
a
plate of sushi, and many others will say that a graceful
geisha will be on their list. Show all of those folks a picture of a
typical Japanese garden and they will all recognise it as being an
iconic emblem of the culture of that country.
view along with a glass or two of
something summery. OK, that’s true when the sun’s shining, but summer
is short and the weather gets cool. However, the well-appointed high
street is buzzing all year round and has a few places to eat hot food
that are worth investigating.
That’s always a good sign in these
days of healthy competition. 
something. 
arrived from
Marseille. She is a lady of impeccable taste and owns a shop filled
with stylish and interesting goods. I had high hopes of a classy gift
and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this square of material.
“Nice,” I said, with as much enthusiasm as this confused reviewer could
muster. “Just what I wanted,” I lied, but thankfully help and an
explanation was at hand before I contemplated saying “This would make
an exemplary family heirloom.”
and
charm
then
you
will
appreciate
its
every
plush
cushion
and
impressive
vase.
Hong Kong for his eponymous
restaurant, he has also composed a menu to reflect the finest of
Cantonese cooking. 
are
cooked
to
perfection.
There was a hint of
chilli that gave a suspicion of heat and the puffed rice was in the
guise of a wafer. Lime added a spike of citrus vibrancy. A well-rounded
dish that would be enticing for those looking for a brekkie with an
Asian slant. It was a substantial portion, but a rugby player could
always add a side of hot buttered toast. 
buildings
and The Green skirted by homes of the rich and famous. A good location
for some decent restaurants catering for the discerning high-end palate.
offered us some tempting Asian
options and the Lychee Martini - fresh lychee, vodka, syrup, dash of
lime juice - seemed appropriate for the occasion. Pale
and delicate and very much that evocative flavour of the East.
plateful
which was an admirable foil for the curry sauce. Sticky rice is an
indispensible part of any Thai meal, here served in a woven basket, a
nice ethnic touch and practical: the rice remained moist for the
duration of the meal.
station. It
occupies the former site of Taiwanese restaurant Keelung, which wasn’t
around too long. It has a tastefully muted exterior and
seems almost shy and looking to be anonymous. 
a bite of that to
create a striking meal.
several
decades.
flavoured cheese cake with lychee
jelly. This was a light and moussey confection which was indeed
enhanced by the jelly which was laced with shreds of ginger. 
steady stream of cookbooks penned by this Indian culinary worthy. All
others, although eminently accessible to the Western audience, have
been written for the Asian reader. This latest tome offers dishes
selected for those outside the Subcontinent. The recipes are not
‘dumbed-down’ for the non-Indian palate, but they have been chosen to
introduce an array of both classic and contemporary delights that can
easily be prepared with the use of your regular high-street shops. For
those folk who live in a lighthouse off the coast of Shetland then
there is always the internet.
groups will bag for
the evening. Low seating and ceilings introduce an air of intimacy.
Bombay Sapphire gin, mint,
lime, apple, cucumber, elderflower cordial and apple juice must surely
constitute a couple of your five a day. The garnish of cucumber and
mint wafts one to a newly-cut lawn and perhaps a swaying hammock. This
might be the token Anglo-Indian cocktail.
semi-final and are about to settle in front of the TV to watch the
final (the equivalent of the American Super-Bowl or the Football World
Cup), when India will face Sri Lanka. But the food at this restaurant
is very definitely Chinese.
were
few
over-nighting
businessmen
when
we
visited
the Chinese Cricket Club,
but there were a couple of tables occupied by those who were evidently
regulars, and some of those were themselves Chinese.
Australian
and
has
always
had
a
passion
for authentic Chinese food. Australia is a
great cricketing nation but also has a thriving Asian cuisine culture.
Brendan launched and ran Zuma in Istanbul for two years and that
restaurant won a raft of awards. Before that, he was Executive Chef at
Movenpick Hotels and Resorts in both Istanbul and Dar Es Salaam – a
well-travelled and experienced chef who is ably assisted by Guanghao
Wu, a Specialist Oriental Chef with a 20-year career.
a practical method of cooking such beans: the colour remains vibrant
and the vegetables retain a crunch. These particular beans had
agreeable chilli heat.
marinated
in
red
masala,
pan
fried,
which
was
remarkable
for
its
crunchy
texture.
Moreish
when
served
with
Papaeta
Nay
Mohhtta
Murcha
-
cubes of potato
cooked with diced mixed peppers, cumin and garlic.
refurbishment.
It’s
part
of
the
Grosvenor
Hotel
right
next
to
Victoria
Station.
The
Grosvenor
is
one of London’s great Victorian railway hotels, which
still retains many period features reflecting its heritage. The hotel,
formerly known as Thistle Victoria, is within walking distance of many
of London's famous tourist sites including Buckingham Palace and the
Houses of Parliament.
experience in high-end
restaurants in China.
flavourful,
but
the
star
of
the
plate
was
the
succulent
Roasted
Duck
with
its
lacquered
skin.
menu. The rice filled any little empty
corners we might have had, and had the appeal of home cooking – nothing
spicy and with no particular ingredient taking centre stage. This was
Chinese comfort food.
demonstration
by
the
Awana
chef,
but
this
time
the
roti
showed
its
more
delicate,
sweet
nature.
Those
sheets
of roti dough, instead of being folded into
light and flaky bread, were left as a single sheets which were griddled
with butter and sugar, and then coaxed into a thin and crisp cone which
was served in spectacular fashion drizzled with chocolate sauce.
personally
tailored
dining
experience
and
even
bring
along
one’s
own
music.
Perhaps
those
tunes
should
reflect
the
ethnic
style
of
the
restaurant.
Snatches
from
the
Japanese
classics
rather
than
J-pop or, heaven forbid, Abba.
aroma rises
from this
substantial dish. 
could stand alone as a main course with just a few accompaniments. A
striking skewer of large blocks of paneer interleaved with vegetables.
The cheese was gilded and deliciously scorched and had robust texture.
This showed the acceptable face of vegetarianism, a dish that is
substantial enough for even a meat-eater – a must-try starter.
wallpaper.
piecrust.
My
biryani
arrived
with
a
flourish
and
was
a
sizable
bowl of
spiced
rice with the business end of a lamb shank sticking like a
flag
pole
from
the
centre.
The
pastry replicated the
sealed pot in which the rice would traditionally have been cooked (a
little terracotta casserole sealed with dough). The waiter deftly cut
away the crust to reveal meat that did truly fall from the bone with
only the encouragement of the vibration from the passing traffic. The
rice was both spicy and perfumed and one could indeed imagine Maharajas
eating this as the peacock-feather fans wafted. This was the best
biryani I have tasted in ages and enough in one serving to satisfy at
least one hungry rugby player.
Rajput
dishes
which
take
advantage of game
birds. The succulent slices of duck were served with a tiger
prawn,
making
this
a
luxurious
plateful,
but
very
reasonably
priced,
as
are
all
the
items
on
the
menu.
Once
again
a
substantial
portion.
material
it was a revelation. Yes, there had always been Indians on TV: Arapaho,
Mohawk, Apache. Some of us thought we might have a bit of Sioux
coursing through our veins as that is what the media presented as
‘Indian’. Always the bad guys and always getting creamed by the
cavalry. Although in truth film did introduce a bit of balance, in the
guise of the very Welsh Richard Burton playing an Indian doctor in The
Rains of Ranchipur – but it only added to the cultural confusion. Yes,
Madhur Jaffrey was one of the first high-profile Asian Indians on
British television.
Pizza
Shed
or
MacDougall’s
Burgers.
Think
high-end
food
with
ambiance
to
match
–
thoughtful
touches
of
presentation
which
mark
the
Royal
China
Group
as
something
considerably
more
than
most
neighbourhood
restaurants.
The
internationally
acclaimed
London-based
company
boasts
over
20
restaurants
throughout
the
world.
enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best
Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is
the popularity of this man.
the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from
the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and
thoroughly impressive.
Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev
is
probably
the
most
celebrated
of
Indian
chefs,
presenting
Khana
Khazana
on
India’s
Zee
TV)
then
you must have been living under a rock with no access either to
cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous
review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi
cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.
Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an
exotic diet trend. 
something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding,
burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal
adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The
charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of
marinades and condiments.
this isn’t a book about colourful textiles, it’s about how the sari is
worn and the place it holds in Indian society. It’s a simple length of
cloth but to suggest that is all it is would be rather like saying a
book is just reconstituted tree.